So, for aluminum it should be able to dissipate quite a bit of heat. I’d imagine no turbo timer is necessary there, except maybe on the smaller version.
For copper, it’s probably okay too… especially since a 14500 cell won’t usually push as much power as an 18650. But OTOH it’ll also be small so heat could still potentially be an issue. Maybe.
For stainless steel, … heat builds up like crazy and takes forever to shed. To make it even remotely safe, it would probably need a somewhat short timer which steps down twice. Do you think it would be better to try to make it safe, or better to just get rid of the timer entirely and trust the light’s operator to manage heat, knowing that the light could probably kill itself? Also keep in mind that the outside of the light might not even be hot by the time the inside is approaching dangerous levels — heat moves slowly through steel.
“Also keep in mind that the outside of the light might not even be hot by the time the inside is approaching dangerous levels — heat moves slowly through steel.”
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Very good point, TK.
I really think that if people want Bling, then to go with what Dale suggested - A Hybrid, with a SS body with CU fins.
Again: “…the outside of the light might not even be hot by the time the inside is approaching dangerous levels…”
Such is the nature of our reality. - You can actually have everything you want, but only in small doses at a time:-)
I really like the SS with Cu fins idea: makes it practical for use on high power for longer. But its probably hard to get that built…
I also agree if its going to green the beam its not worth the tiny boost in output. 3C is also pretty green on average, so I am torn on all the GBs, love the idea and the light, dislike the green NW + greening AR.
Btw, a Cu insert with fins, in a SS body will be an improvement and awesome looking, but it will still not nearly shed the amount of heat that a middle-of-the-road aluminium body can, in which the heat spreads over the body in no time, if flat black anodised it is even better.
(aluminium is just unbeatable for flashlight use: great heat capacity, great heat conductor, lightweight, cheap, machining is a piece of cake, it can be durably stained, it is strong enough for most purposes. If you are a flashlight enthousiast and have a distaste for aluminium, you really make it hard for yourself)
My only stainless steel light is the Convoy S7… and even with its relatively thin walls (half as thick as aluminum lights), it’s heavy and takes a while to cool down after being used. Having air flow doesn’t help it as much as it helps aluminum or copper. I love the idea of a steel X6, and I want one, but I worry about it shedding heat.
But we won’t have to worry about damaging the host! If its parts are exactly the same size and shape as the original it might actually be bullet-proof. It’ll be seriously indestructible.
There’s a common belief that titanium is stronger than steel. And, in one sense, it’s true — a given mass of titanium will support more weight than the same mass of steel. But titanium is much lighter, so it can be a lot thicker at the same weight. And titanium is generally softer so it scratches easier. If you go by volume instead of mass, steel is usually stronger.
Chances are, a steel X6 will still be in pretty good condition when your grandchildren inherit it… Unless you use it for target practice with armor-piercing rounds or store it in salt water when not being used.
BTW, the X6 is a great mod host. I’ve been meaning to mod one of mine for a while, and finally did it today.
I just modded my BLF EE X6 (CW, stock) to use a BLF A6 driver (FET+1) and a de-domed XP-G2 S2 1D. Before the mod (stock X6), it got:
922 lm
18.3 kcd / 270 m
After the mod, it gets:
604 lm
52.5 kcd / 458 m
I’m having a hard time focusing the beam though, so the lux could potentially get a little higher.
I don’t know what the lux would be like with XP-L and a FET+1 driver, or with XP-L HI. At a guess though, probably about 27 kcd for XP-L or maybe 45 kcd for XP-L HI. But these are only guesses.
You know… what would be really interesting to me, is what would the throw be with a constant output (lets just say) 600lm output - comparing XP-G2 (dome-on) to a XP-L Hi?
How do their actual ‘optical’ die sizes compare?
Regardless, there has to be a winner… Who do you think it would be?