Yes it is still on, and the main difference is if a new attachment point can be brought to life. The possibility of a copper and a stainless steel version is afloat as wellā¦
The stock ones with the code are still a great light, so do not wait if you want oneā¦
I just got in my other two I ordered after I gave away the other ones I received for a review. They look great and seem to be the same quality of the ones sent for review. Still an impressive little light.
Heh, how about that! I just got in my order last week for the cheaper price. I think Iād still have ordered at the $11.95 price, but itās nice to get it a couple bucks cheaper.
FYI, I opened up two of my lights to have a look at both the 219B and the 219B-V1 from the side when already mounted. And yes, I can confirm that you can differentiate the two in that way. The 219B really shows small metall areas on the sides of the cathode and anode, where the 219B-V1 does not. You have to look closely though, because itās the place where some excess solder comes out with most of the boards.
I checked my A01 and took a crappy photo with my cellphone and an old Sipik 68 lens as a macro. It did not come out clean but it does show that the LED is a V1 219B, no exposed metalā¦
Yes, I did clean the dome after the pic. For some reason, me and any kind of heatsink goo have an affinity for each otherā¦ I cannot keep that stuff off of my fingers, and thus off of emitters. I use gloves on the high power stuff, this was just a quick pic and it still ended up like thatā¦ LOL
haha, I know too good what youāre talking about. Iām overly careful keeping my emitters clean, but they still manage to collect all different kinds of stuff you donāt want on them. With dedomed emitters itās a real PITA.
Is that chips in the dome, or heat sink paste? Awful from stock like that. I cleaned my self induced messy one ip with some 90% alcohol on a Qtip. I would let Banggood know as wellā¦