Based on my experience I’d recommend about 20kOhm. Blue has the lowest Vf of the ones I’ve used and benefited from the highest resistor value to appropriately dim.
Update: Added a 510mOhm bleed resistor on the driver and it operates perfectly now. I thought that the offtime based firmware should not require a bleed resistor for operation ?
Hey all. The clear S2+ gaskets were waiting for me yesterday when I got home. Now I just need to pick up some stamps. I haven’t really mailed anything in a while. I’m going to send some out in the next few days and I’ll see if I can get Richard to take some so he could just throw them in if you happen to be in the US and ordering something from Mountain Electronics. They come in a sheet like below so you just need to pop them out. Hopefully these will make the glowing S2+ tails a little better.
I received some clear gaskets yesterday (thanks J-Dub!) including a few extras. If anyone needs one please let me know and I’d be happy to drop some out in the mail :).
Now to get some PCBs on order. I believe it should be Rev5.1b for 14mm boots and I just use this above the stock switch in place of the metal washer? Which ones would you recommend for modding a S2+ metal boot tailcap?
Hey mattlward. Was I supposed to send you some clear rubber seals or are you talking about something else? If you need some send me a PM with your address and how many you need. Most of the rest I’ll ship off to Richard.
I don’t recall exactly but it was over 200. I just counted what I still have. 147 left and I think I sent out somewhere between 70 and 80 in total already to those who asked. So, I’ll probably send 100 or so to Richard and then a few here and there to whoever needs them. Anyone I send them to will get more than they need giving the opportunity to pay it forward if another BLFer needs a few. If anybody wants some just send me a PM.
Edit
The bummer is Simon was supposed to send a bunch to djozz too. When I reminded him he said the equivalent of “oops”. He’s going to make some more though. It was my intention for him to just switch over to clear for all the future S2+ models to make these switches easier going forward. Waiting for confirmation on that.
Did you ever get this problem worked out? I’m afraid I might run into the same issue on my S2+ and I don’t need another reason to drink :).
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I did get it working… the board was bad. I moved all of the parts to another board and started in on the first one with an ohm meter. I found a short on the board that was still there with the components removed.