What did you mod today?

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thijsco19
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You used Google drive and that just sucks..
Try uploading it on a regular photo upload site like photobucket.

dehc111
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thanks. I tried that but used google drive share options. doesnt seem to work. Will try photobucket.

djozz
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will34: what a great performed mod! I wish I was in the hobby back then, I love that Nitecore!

CRX: another very cool mod. And quite a chunk of alu in there!

Ouchyfoot
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That EA4 mod will have me looking over to the shelf where mine resides. I’m assuming you left the driver as is. Definitely need aluminum for that heatsink, copper would weigh a ton.

CRX
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Yeah, the aluminium balances out the four eneloops in the back a lot better. All i did to the driver was replace the LED wires.

Tom E
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Way back in post #592, KawiBoy1428 used this stuff: "Alum Fast Stick" for thermal potting

This looks really good for lots of applications, like fixing up pill-less budget lights, specially if you replace or build a shelf but need to add thermal mass, and get a good thermal connection to the body. I just ordered it on Amazon Prime.

KawiBoy1428 - can you or anyone advise a bit more on this stuff? It looks pretty good, better thermally than JB Weld I would think?

KawiBoy1428
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Tom E wrote:

Way back in post #592, KawiBoy1428 used this stuff: “Alum Fast Stick” for thermal potting



This looks really good for lots of applications, like fixing up pill-less budget lights, specially if you replace or build a shelf but need to add thermal mass, and get a good thermal connection to the body. I just ordered it on Amazon Prime.


KawiBoy1428 - can you or anyone advise a bit more on this stuff? It looks pretty good, better thermally than JB Weld I would think?


Never used JB weld on a flashlight. This works up like any 2 part putty epoxy, kind of thick and heavy. Machines really nice once fully cured. Make sure your surface (s) are roughed up and clean Transfer’s heat in the S70 rapidly, warm in about a minute or less and LUX is way more stable, not rapidly dropping like it was before, even after fixing the mcpcb shelf. I think your going to like it Tom! I purchased 2 more sticks of it. Wink

KB1428 “Live Life WOT

leroycp
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Solarforce L2M shorty 18350 added A6 driver heavy solder to the cheap pill. GB XPL HI V2 1A used gold Thermal paste and did the vihn aluminum foil heatsink wrap. 4 inch heavy duty foil folded twice. Used a plastic mallet to finish the press in. I left the forward clicky in place for 7 moon through turbo. It is “cute”. Giggle factor: yes. You can hear the clicking a mile away. No stealth for sure! Hey… I had the host so why not.

ReManG
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Built a few builds today I have been meaning to get around to completing.  

 

The first is my 18500 Convoy S2+ triple.  I used a 1.4A driver with Guppydrv, cut the pill in half and soldered the Noctigon to the half pill.  I stoked the Noctigon with 3ea of the 219C 70+ CRI  LED's from RMM... Very nice light.  I baked the body until I got this color, which is actually very nice.  A sand or light bronze color.  Whatever you call it, I like it and it looks good with the black clip and switch boot.

The other light I rebuilt was my K5.  I had buried the thing in a flower pot outside for a week after bead blasting it.  The finish was coming along nicely, I oiled it with coconut oil after a good rinse.   I put another 219C 5000K, this one a 80+ CRI in place of the stock XPL-HI.  I like the tint much better. 

 

The color comparison from stock to baked on broil for 45 minutes...

 

Some more close ups of the aged copper look.

 

The last mod was a Supfire M2-Z from Mountain Electronics.  This is a sideswitch C8 almost.  Not a bad host at all.  I stripped the components off the origninal driver board and piggybacked a 3A Qlite with Moppydrv (also RMM's store) on to the stripped board. I also replaced the stock emitter with a 3000K 80+ CRI XPL-HI I had in another light.  Now I have a high CRI thrower... It is nice, but I messed something up in the mod, the light goes to a 1/2 moon mode instead of off... So for now, just a play around light.   I will see what I can find to fix the no-off situation. 

Ouchyfoot
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You and djozz keep chopping down your S2 18350 pills to make room for a bigger (18500) battery, but I’ve been thinking of going the other way and building a full size S2 and running the smaller 18500 so I can make a longer heat sink. Don’t know if that would make any sense, or if I’d just be roasting my cells inside the battery tube.

ReManG
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Ouchyfoot wrote:
You and djozz keep chopping down your S2 18350 pills to make room for a bigger (18500) battery, but I’ve been thinking of going the other way and building a full size S2 and running the smaller 18500 so I can make a longer heat sink. Don’t know if that would make any sense, or if I’d just be roasting my cells inside the battery tube.

Makes sense to me, if what you are after is more heat absorption. What amp levels are you running your S2 for output? I felt comfortable with my 1.4A build and the increased run time from the 18500, which is what I was after…

It gets warm, but not hot on a 60 second turbo timer, with a 50 minute run on high alone. Not the runtime of the ever so slightly larger DQG tiny 18650, but much more useful than the 18350 size…. Plus all the modes of guppydrv in this one…

Ouchyfoot
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Right now I’m mostly playing around with triple and quad single cell DD FET drivers. Going for the gusto. Mostly I find the time consuming act of filing and shaping of my copper heat sinks by hand therapudic. For some reason the concentration involved takes me far away from outward pressures. Therefore, if I’m going to build big copper, I might as well have big heat to go with it.

leroycp
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You guys are all doing good stuff. ReManG you just gave me my next two mods. You got to love mtne. I’m also hunting copper.

ReManG
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Well, there has been some talk lately in other threads about the heat treatment for color change and if it has any effect on the actual aluminum strength itself.

I had mine on broil for about 45-50 minutes and a quick toast on the flames afterwards to keep it hot for a few minutes more.

Then when I am coming back from the store a little while after I posted the original mod, I go to open the gate. My light drops out, unnoticed, and I ran over it (dirt driveway) and didn’t figure out what happened until I went to close the gate…


I do not think it is negative to heat change the color on at least the convoy lights….

The head is ever so sightly out of round, especially toward the front, and it has a few scuffs, but it all works well, and did not even break the lens…. Ironically, I dropped the light earlier and broke another lens, so this is the replacement. I put lenses in front of the optics to protect the plastic, and in this case, to keep the space correct… I have no other damage to the light… Just a slightly oblong front end and a couple of gravel divots… The pill unscrews and the O-ring seems to be good… Here is an inadvertent mod for heat treatment of the Convoy S2+

dehc111
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lol. ditto.

CRX
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Tank 007 TK-703 Green Laser powered by a 10180 cell LOL

(I blew smoke over it to get this image.)

-X3-
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I received my MTN package so I finished my S30RII triple 219C D320 Smile

The moonlight mode is loooow, here it is compared with my S2+ (A6 BLF driver) on moonlight too :

The frosted carclo triple (10509) makes it a nice flooder, and the Nichia have a nice neutral tint !

"-X3-, is there any place in your house without a flashlight ?" 

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jescereal
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I made a pretty tame mod. The new triple 219C mtnelectronics had a promo on, in a Convoy S2.
Around 15 amps at the tail.

djozz
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jescereal wrote:
I made a pretty tame mod. The new triple 219C mtnelectronics had a promo on, in a Convoy S2. Around 15 amps at the tail.

!{width:50%}http://i.imgur.com/Pe63siy.jpg!


15A in a S2, that is just 50W in a small tube light, tame indeed! Wink
DB Custom
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Couldn’t find a Nichia 219B in Hi CRI anywhere, so I bought the little SS BLF 348 and robbed the emitter. Then I put a XM-L2 de-domed on a 10mm SinkPAD on the brass pill after filing it flat on top (the pill) and used a 10mm dual sided FET driver with 6 modes to run it. Potent little 348, for sure!

zeed
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Modded a Fenix Headband so I can use it with lights that are more than 22mm in diameter. In my case I’m using the Fenix Headband with a BLF A6. I ran a piece of shock cord out the threaded hole and put a cord lock on the other end. (I still need to trim the shock cord down a little.)

giorgoskok
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DB Custom wrote:
Couldn’t find a Nichia 219B in Hi CRI anywhere, so I bought the little SS BLF 348 and robbed the emitter. Then I put a XM-L2 de-domed on a 10mm SinkPAD on the brass pill after filing it flat on top (the pill) and used a 10mm dual sided FET driver with 6 modes to run it. Potent little 348, for sure!

Did you mod the reflector , or it was a perfect fit ?

DB Custom
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There was a little black plastic donut that fit around the 219B, I put it down around the bare die so the reflector sits on it instead of the substrate. It’s a little loose in there actually, but the spring in the tail pushes it all together. I probably ought to pull it back apart and use the brass shim and spring that came out of it.

Ouchyfoot
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Not really a mod in any sense, but I was looking through a a case of small AAA/10440 lights I hadn’t opened in a while and found this little Balder 10440 that didn’t seem to work. I took off the top and an old style XP-G was loose and rattling around. There seemed to be hardly any solder on the pads at all. I found an XP-G2 on an old aluminum star from some failed experiment and reflowed it onto the 9mm Balder MCPCB. It’s working very nicely now. I forgot about this stash of tiny lights. I just don’t have much use for them except to play with once a year or so.

djozz
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Ouchyfoot wrote:
Not really a mod in any sense, but I was looking through a a case of small AAA/10440 lights I hadn’t opened in a while and found this little Balder 10440 that didn’t seem to work. I took off the top and an old style XP-G was loose and rattling around. There seemed to be hardly any solder on the pads at all. I found an XP-G2 on an old aluminum star from some failed experiment and reflowed it onto the 9mm Balder MCPCB. It’s working very nicely now. I forgot about this stash of tiny lights. I just don’t have much use for them except to play with once a year or so.
!http://i67.tinypic.com/oat476.jpg!

It is always satisfying to repair an old light, even when it may be obsolete (which this one is not) and not in use. Smile
mattlward
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I must say, I am starting to appreciate the small lights. I think the drivers and led’s are much better now, so they are more useful. Sounds like a fun box of stuff!

EDC rotation:
FW1A, LH351D 4000k (second favorite)
FW3A, LH351D 3500k
FW3A, SST20 FD2 4000k
FW3A, Nichia 4000k sw40 r9080 (favorite light!)
FW3A, Cree XP-L Hi 5A3
Emisar D4V2, SST20 4000k
S2+, XM-L2 T6 4C

Firelight2
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Finally got my old Sunwayman V10a working.

This is a 1xAA magnetic ring flashlight with a cool-white XPG. I dropped the head during a battery change 1 month after I got it (several years ago). Something popped off the driver and it never worked since. I tried the thing back on, but wasn’t sure if I got the orientation right and it didn’t work.

Tried it again today and realized it actually DOES work … but the boost circuit is fried. It still works properly on 14500. That’s good enough for me … pretty much all my lights only run on li-ion anyways.

Build quality of the casing of this light looks incredible. Probably the best looking anodizing of any light I’ve ever owned. It’s nice to have it working again.

Next step will be to replace the old cool-white XPG with something better. Maybe an XPG2. Or perhaps I could use an XML2, XPL, or 219C. These other emitters would require a larger reflector, which I could salvage from my broken V10r.

Future mods:
I’m thinking of buying a Jetbeam RC16 or RC26 and converting it to a FET triple.

If I do this with the RC16 I’d want to fit an 18500 cell inside.
If I do this with the RC26 I’d want to use the human lathe method to shorten the body tube so the light is more compact/

djozz
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My second Bestfire 9-led mod, my first serious high output one, and by far the most expensive mod I have ever done. It is a bit scary to put 50 dollars worth of XP-L Hi's in a light fully risking to blow them all up at some point. I have not read many other SRK-mods (I was never too fond of SRK's because I did not like the looks of the original design), and I'm a lazy efficient modder so I'm sure things could have been done better here and there..

I wanted this to be a warm white flooder, and I had done a few mods with the 7A1 XP-L Hi and I liked the tint very much. They came from Mouser though, and I did not like the idea of their shipping costs again, so I bought 10x 7A2's from Kaidomain. A bit less rosy, but the 7A1 has very much of that, so this tint is very nice too.

A few old pictures of the stock light:

  

The stock light puts out 1500 lumen, with about 7A current. They put whatever driver they have at hand in this light, I had three of these lights in my hands thusfar, with three different drivers. The one from this mod has almost the driver in the picture above, minus the second FET (the solder pads for it were empty), and minus the R100 (it was already bridged).

*1) I have no SRK-type drivers at hand, so the stock driver had to be beefed-up, because this mod was going to have high current. So I soldered a second FET on the empty pads, one of my scarse leftover Vishay 70NO2 FETS. I made an extra solder bridge from the FET-source pad to the ground, and I filled those tiny via's in the ground ring on the right with solder. The stock ledwires were 24AWG, I changed them to 18AWG.

*2) bypassing the battery-minus-springs and improving the connection from the tailboard to the body. The two tiny screws that carry the current in the stock light were made from iron, the shelf for the board is anodised so all current gous through those screws, with even the greater part of the screw-holes in the body anodised on the inside. So I tapped two new screw-holes in the body and added two extra brass screws (the board had the two extra via's for the extra screws already). And I made an extra electrical connection to the batt-minus circuitry in the middle.

 

*3) I'm using the stock 9-led ledboard. It is not a DTP-board, but I want maxiumum 3A per led, so that should be alright. The only problem with it that more than 20A is delivered to the board and with the current then spread out via an artistic maze to the 9 leds, there were not too wide traces at the start of the distribution that carried the full current. So I made two copper-strip bypasses so that no trace carries more than half the total current. On the picture also the XP-L Hi leds are reflowed already, and the copper plate can be seen under the board (see nr 4)

*4) The 2mm thick aluminium ledboard sits on a fairly wide shelf in the body, but it is not the full diameter so only a 2mm edge is touching it. Moreover, when tightening the head, the ledboard is not pushed against its shelf, instead the reflector is pushed against the head. With the increased heat in this mod I had to thicken-up the ledboard anyway, so I made a copper shelf under the ledboard from two 1mm thick copper disks soldered together and then screwed against the ledboard with a very thin layer of Arctic Silver in between. Everything was made very very flat so that the contact was optimal. The larger of the copper discs (full inner diameter of the head sits on the ledboard shelf now (again with thin Arctic Silver in between), with the smaller disc fitting tight in the cavity. Now the heat-path to the shell was very much improved and with the 1mm added tickness of the assembly the copper is pushed firmly to its shelf.

 

That's all. It took me 5 hours yesterday (tail-work, ledboard reflow and work, driver mod), and a couple of hours today (copper disc-work and assembly and testing), to give you an estimate how expensive this light has become Wink

Three nice pictures to make the light look more amazing than it is:

 

The performance:

First the crappy but useful UI, which is stock: off -> high -> 25%low(low-freq.PWM) -> off. There's a green led under the switch and when the light is already clearly dimming because the batteries are getting low, the green led turns red (as if I did not already knew Tired ). And there's no shut-down or anything, the batteries keep draining. I stopped when the light on high was only just 16 lumen, the batteries were 2.58V (resting voltage) by then. So the batteries are finally saved by the led-voltage, but this will be worse with 219C's.

The output. All the resistance that I removed has payed off, the current on 4 freshly loaded Panasonic NCR18650BD cells (semi-high drain) was 24A ! (2.6A/led) Smile , so this is a 90W flashlight. I think the main leftover resistance in the system is the thoroid on the driver (what does it do anyway??), all current goes through it. The OTF output is  5600 cosy warm djozz-lumens at start-up and after 30 seconds it was 4750 lumen  Smile , and quite stable after that, the heat-path works well ! After two minutes the light is too hot to hold, but on the low setting (1650 lumen) the produced heat is nicely sustainable.

A white wall shot at 4 meter distance. The camera was on auto-exposure to show the beam pattern, in reality it is an impressive wall of light:

I think this light is a succes, at least very impressive and I love the tint. I will not likely be doing another mod as expensive as this one, XP-L Hi's are nice, but there are other very nice leds out there that are 3 times as cheap.

If the light keeps working as it is doing now, it is a candidate for swapping in some future amazing BLF-originating SRK-type driver!

MRsDNF
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Amazing mod djozz. Loving your work.

 

djozz quotes, "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".

                      "My man mousehole needs one too"

old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".

Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.

 

unknown00101
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I finally got back to my Courui mod after running into a few issues. Everything is working great so far, I just have to mess around with the focus a bit.

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