4th Annual BLF/OL Scratch Made Light Contest- Hand Made 10/31 finished

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Rufusbduck
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hijacking this post for build updates.

8/1

I decided to go a bit further than 5/8” so I started this phase by opening the ends more with a 3/4” step drill bit and then spent several hours using up most of a sheet of 150 sandpaper and a few feet of 2” masking tape to ream the narrow part between the ends. iballing with my iPhone. Here with a 3/4” OD brass tube. I started out with a 3/8” carriage bolt(head removed to fit smooth end in chuck), one layer of tape, and just enough sandpaper to wrap the bolt plus 1” under the tape. Spin it until it’s no longer snug then add another piece of tape under the sandpaper. When the paper gets dull(wood heats up with very little removed) turn the paper end for end to bring the fresh grit out and repeat ad nauseum. At times the wood got too hot to hold but the epoxy sealer stayed stable and never became gummy.

Later that same day… I took the other piece of wood out to the garage and cut out the center with a 1” hole saw. Then I popped the piece out with a chisel keeping some of the plywood attached for stability and switched to a 7/8” hole saw with tape and 150 grit to clean up the inside. Back to the 1” hole saw with enough tape to make it snug and clamped my hack saw blade to the table and oh so carefully nudged the table and blade into range as I pulled the handle on the spinning piece. That’s enough for now on this piece, it’s still ~1 mm bigger than the flat to flat dimension of the brass bezel nut but I need to re saturate it with epoxy sealer before making it closer to final dimension. As the wood gets thinner it tends to swell when saturated. This is the sealer I use.

8/2

Things started out well enough. To make the female threads I need to reduce the ID of 3/4” copper pipe to somewhere close to 19 mm, preferably a but less since the threaded ID of a P60 reflector which has the same 20 × 1mm pitch is ~18.8 mm. I cut a short length of pipe and removed a 5.5 or so mm strip. Then I annealed it on the stove and after a little filing and rolling it slipped right in. Brazing on that went fine. It needs a small lip on one end and a means to clamp it in a vise on the other that allows the tap to feed through. Seems to be going well. As you can see the tap went skewed even with about 15 mm of extra length on the outer layer to act as a guide. Oh well, I’ll have to start over.

I’ve already remade the tube and liner but using slightly thicker copper sheet instead and a bit more length on the outer tube as well, The first try was a bit large at 19.2 mm. In addition, I’ve cut two strips from an aluminum can that take up the remaining slack between the outer tube and the tap which will hopefully get it started more on axis. I still need to cut the brass nut free from the original one so I can reuse it.

One good piece of news is that my lens arrived today and fits the now squared lip perfectly( lip was sloped before to accommodate the compression sleeve).
Link to more threading

Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?

Scott

MRsDNF
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You light building productivity is on a par with mine. You’ll be fine in a couple of weeks. Smile

 

djozz quotes, "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".

                      "My man mousehole needs one too"

old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".

Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.

 

Rufusbduck
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Survived a short 6 mi mtb ride this morning so I guess my power of recovery isn’t gone yet. Update in the op.

Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?

Scott

MRsDNF
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I’m taking everything you do with that piece of wood on board. Smile
Nice RBD. The light update that is as well as the quick recovery from the bike ride. Glad you stayed out of intensive care. Silly

 

djozz quotes, "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".

                      "My man mousehole needs one too"

old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".

Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.

 

Rufusbduck
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Me too, 13 hrs after two days of 100+ had me flat out. I pay the extra to live here and avoid that kind of heat but at least it was dry rather than humid. The worst part was running out of water before we finished. We get hot spells causing the fog to form offshore but the high pressure inland kept it there. Don’t need a weatherman to tell me which way the wind blows.

Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?

Scott

Rufusbduck
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Reaming the tube at the end of the op.

Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?

Scott

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You have magical hands Thumbs Up I would have broken the drill bit around ten times Silly

Rufusbduck
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Thanks, I used to break more and still do some but like many things it can be a learned skill. Getting it right to begin with isn’t enough though as each larger bit tends to grab and pull its own path through the wood so you have to keep making adjustments with each one. As long as you stay within the bounds of the finished ID the final reaming will CYA.

Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?

Scott

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August stuff moved to page two(post #32).

Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?

Scott

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I would of thought 19.2mm would have been fine for a 20mm thread.

 

djozz quotes, "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".

                      "My man mousehole needs one too"

old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".

Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.

 

Rufusbduck
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It worked for awhile but only because the copper was squeezing to form the threads rather than cutting. Looking close I can see two separate ridges instead of one. I’d have been ok with it if the tap had stayed true.

Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?

Scott

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It may have stretched the material as well as slightly cut the thread.

 

djozz quotes, "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".

                      "My man mousehole needs one too"

old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".

Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.

 

fritz15
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Which thread pitch does your tool have? Also copper is a very nasty material. You need sharp tools and lots of lubrication. It certainly helps if you drown everything in rapeseed oil, at least that’s what I noticed when I worked with it on the lathe.

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Looking good RBD Beer

I’ve got a lot of catch-up to do – everyone seems to have got off to a flying start.

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An amazing amount of great work is being done here, thanks for posting every detail.
Watching… Smile

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Hi Fritz, it’s a 20 × 1 mm tap. I used it for the first time last year to make to make a copper added 502b. Had more success then. I’m not worried, or surprised really, just have to try again with another idea to make it better.

Steve, I’ll have to check whether it stretched or not when I cut the brass nut free.

Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?

Scott

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Warning! Random post, deletable to get first post of page 3 if needed. Hopefully cuts down on scrolling to new stuff and speed page loading by spreading image heavy posts over several pages.

Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?

Scott

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Impressive stuff there RBD. Kind of turned the drill press into a mini vertical lathe with that hacksaw blade.

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Exactly, my dad has an old “kit” lathe/drill press I used to make the cherry handle for last years prize build but that would have been cheating. Somehow the hack saw fits the notion of hack build much better. I remember some discussions of whether it was the tool or how used that determined qualification but it says drill press ok so I’m drill pressing. There’s still more than enough pure hand and eye in this and coaxing any kind of accuracy out of this concatenation isn’t a high probability but it does let me do things I simply couldn’t hang on to do freehand. Just how close I can get to what I want remains to be seen as there are plenty of places to skew the pooch still.

Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?

Scott

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So that’s how it’s done. Nice work & ideas Thumbs Up

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MRsDNF wrote:
It may have stretched the material as well as slightly cut the thread.

Good call, you were absolute correct, it stretched by ~.3 mm, too much to assemble after tapping. This might change the order of fabrication(as if I had a clue in the first place). The fins and spacers should support it enough to prevent this but I’ll need to ponder the consequences. Rats, this mouse’s plans have gone awry. Either I reduce the OD after the fact(safest) or assemble it and then tap it(risky because of the torque needed) I think I’ll go with plan A since the spacer ring material is a bit loose to begin with. And this will allow me to improve that fit as a side benefit. I’ll need to basically do what I did before but better and deal with the consequences.

Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?

Scott

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I wonder if you annealed the material then rolled it, the outer diameter may shrink back to its former size?

 

djozz quotes, "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".

                      "My man mousehole needs one too"

old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".

Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.

 

Rufusbduck
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The inner piece was annealed when it was fitted and both again during the brazing process. It’s all good now, I made another and the shims made the tap start true and once going it stayed true. Gonna put the update here as it will be easier to move to page 3 when there is one. Here is the next brazed together and soldered into a piece of coupling that in turn is brazed to the nut. The shims take up the extra space around the tap before it engages to get it on axis. It came out much better this time. It did swell a few tenths of a mm so after cutting it free I sanded and filed it back down until it fit my spacer material. Here it is with a piece of last years leftover pill material. And here’s a view showing the shim material(say “Pepsi please”). It will need a lip to be brazed on like the failed one had. I also got started making some new pill material. !
{width:100%} http://i1166.photobucket.com/albums/q619/Rufusbduck/72C86505-7A9F-4F46-8...! The larger piece gets collapsed around the smaller and the “cap” sits inside the thickness of a sinkpad below the rim. It took two tries to get it right. The first one just wouldn’t close up and though I could have sanded it down to the right size it was less work to do it over. It needs the cap piece to be installed and then similarly soldered to a bolt so I can wrestle the 20×1mm die down the length.
Brass and wood

Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?

Scott

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I’m not sure if you realise this RBD but this build is identical to your others in one respect. I have no idea what your doing. Blushing

 

djozz quotes, "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".

                      "My man mousehole needs one too"

old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".

Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.

 

Rufusbduck
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That makes it unanimous.

Edit, it’s only fair since I don’t know what anyone else is doing either. If it doesn’t become clear by the end then it probably won’t work.

Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?

Scott

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I agree, I have no idea what you are doing or where this is going but the pictures look amazing! I am looking forwards to more Smile

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That’s me, designing with ADD.

Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?

Scott

MRsDNF
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Your designing with ADD makes something BADD. Facepalm

 

djozz quotes, "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".

                      "My man mousehole needs one too"

old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".

Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.

 

Rufusbduck
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Why thank you, I think Oops I’ve shown it so far with a P60 reflector but I’m waiting on a different one that’s 1mm wider and 7-8 mm deeper so it would affect the design of the head(mainly the length) which is why I cut fins but went no further with that. Bouncing around may be fun and keep you all confused but it’s not really a goal, just a byproduct of my own disorganized mind and doing what I can when I can. There’s a lot still to come that’s going to be just as confusing. Spoiler tidbits deleted.

Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?

Scott

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Made some good progress today. I started by grinding the corners off of the bezel and then mounting it on a 7/8” hole saw using the rest of the compression fitting core I cut the threads from earlier. After a couple light passes. Almost there. The last passes then a bit of sanding, I added a few wraps of Teflon tape on the threads to remove slop. As you can see I need to cut the wood collar down to match. So it goes back on the 1” hole saw with tape. The brass came in ~.03 mm under 30 mm and its ~31.8 mm now. I cut to about 30.2 mm with the hack saw blade and sanded the rest using 320, 400, 600, 1500, and finally 2500 grit. It’s still a bit bigger than the brass by less than .1 mm but I want to get it re impregnated with epoxy and see where it cures to. It such a small piece that it’s hard to make that little a batch of epoxy resin(I’m measuring quarter capfuls already so you guessed it, I’m cutting the tube too. After seeing how Steve’s lathe performed on his pieces I’m a bit embarrassed but here it is. The goal when drilling it was to b equidistant from 3 sides and cutting a but more from the fourth to get to clean wood under a bad bit. The first pic showed the heavy cut on the one side and from this one you can see the matching flats indicating the other three sides should come round at the greatest diameter possible. From here on it just keep tapping the hack saw block(can’t see it move but the sound tells me I’m cutting) then adjusting the table up and down to cover the entire length. I kinda got lost in the rhythm when it came time to sand and didn’t take any pictures, just started with 220 and proceeded on up to 2500. The difference this time is I raised the grain with a damp cloth from 400 on. Also, after raising the grain I switch to the next grit and hand sanded the long way slowly turning the chuck with the other hand before spinning it and then raising the grain again. There was the dark vestige of one flat side remaining so when it was still there at 2500 I started over at 320 and did I it again. Here are both pieces fully sanded. And with some epoxy sealer thinned with alcohol. The dark blemish at the left end is where I hope place the switch hole. That’s all for now.

You can see the same blemish in this pic and how much more usable length was gained at the other end by slightly offsetting the bore.
Brass battery tube

Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?

Scott

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