No problem, and thanks
I just figured set-up for only a few is not worth while.
I have pitch gauges and various measuring tools. I am capable of determining for myself if something would fit by dimensions.
But from a sellers standpoint I agree with what you are saying.
I have read the Logoâs thread but nothing much there in pills. Mostly tubes and pocket clips.
If you wish me to delete this discussion from the thread I will.
If you have pitch gauged and measurement tools, you can identify thread (if it is metric or imperial standart shape) by yourself. We can cut any metric threads and some imperial. And cost of few custom pills that could be made from rod I have (up to 30-32mm) can be sumilar to listed in first post parts.
All non-standart shape threads are hard in production and second part with internal thread is defenetly required.
Definitely good to know and I will eventually get back to you on some. At the moment there are too many projects and not enough funds to feed them all.
- P60 deep fins head
Parts that can be produced in different configs (any material, height, pcb size, driver size and etc.), but I won`t make them anymore if I`m not sure that members will order them:
Bezel is big problem for this option. Stock P60 bezel is to deep, uses strange threads and could not provide waterproof with o-rings (in stock it is provided by special shape rubber under glass).
I prefer when bezel is outer style (with internal threads), but seems it is impossible to make such part with machinary I have access to.
Anodizing is another problem for exterior parts from alu. When mechanics is not very cool, anodizing can hide small demerits, but sometimes it makes more of them.
I think I should start with simple P60 solid neck. Similar to OrthoDogs, but without internal screw-in pill. Just one design for triple/quad.
Again have some xp-g3s. 3C tint now.
Can be shipped together with 3xp/xp32/tpad quad boards, but bare only for this moment.
$2/pc.
Combine shipping with any other parts from this thread.
I have made them for myself in triple configuration and even build one light. It is little useless because triple conv. requires host cutting and there were no o-ring grooves so light becomes non-waterproof.
I have sent lots of them to one blf member, unfortunately havent seen if he had build them. Right now have 5 such pills (for triple, that needs host cutting). They are not pretty look and seems that I had done some expiriments with them. So they are free.
Do you mean a triple in a SK68?
I find that idea scary (grin) and donât think Iâd attempt that.
Theyâre not waterproof anyhow because of the slider.
I was curious about single-emitter SK68 pills
(recently I can find SK68s and â#3 zoomieâ flashlights for $2 apiece if I am patient and look on eBay and AliExpress.
But those pills are some soft gray metal, uneven, so an emitter wonât even sit flat in contact around the edges,
and of course 10mm square Luxeon Rebel boards touch only at the four corners, on hollow pills.)
I donât want to push you into doing this if nobody else is interested in them!
Iâd buy a dozen, couldnât use more soon. See if anyone else is interested to make it worth doing?
Iâd wish for pills with solid back planes to mount the LED on so I could use the square 10mm Luxeon Rebels.
But if they have ledges I can stuff in a copper or aluminum disk with some thermal epoxy, Iâve done that with ok success before (and just drilled my own holes for wires)
But before you spend any time and effort on this â Iâm just some guy, I would not be making these up to resell, but to give as gifts
Iâd be putting in BLF 15mm SK68 drivers if I didnât keep the originals, and âanything has to be betterâ LEDs.
One annoyance with improving SK68s is that itâs hard to solder drivers to pills â I just dropped one and had the driver edge solder crack off the aluminum pill.
No problem for me, but a fairly common failure when theyâve been given as gifts so I end up redoing that solder bridge.
I donât know a simple good way around that problem of grounding the driver to the pill thatâs idiot proof against dropping them.
Fewer sharp corners, more pocket-friendly. Also takes the 15mm SK68 driver and same emitter
And when a millimeter is filed off the slider, bringing the lens right down to the LED, they give a generous flood, while the narrow beam isnât affected.
Itâs almost impossible to solder to Al. The metals are too dissimilar, and wonât âstickâ. Plus, the briefest exposure to oxygen would lightly passivate it.
What Iâve done is to solder-fill the vias/passthroughs on the edges of the driver (those âridgesâ where the boards snap apart, usually), and then press-fit the drivers into the pills so that itâs literally a friction-fit. Not perfect, but seems to work for me. Too much solder, though, and it wonât fit at all.