xml2 announced!!!!

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That Ninja Guy
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Shadowww wrote:
warmurf wrote:
This sounds great. So can you tell me, does this mean the XML-2 has a higher output and also will use more power- in other words have a little less run time but just more output, or has the efficiency stayed the same or better??
You’re misunderstanding a bit how LEDs work.
A LED uses exactly as much power as driver feeds it with. No matter whether you grab 10A / 40W SST-90, 3A / 10W XM-L, or 3W / 1A XP-E, if you drive them with same constant-current driver, they all will use same amount of power.

But if direct drive, say an XM-L will pull 3A, but an XP-G will only pull 1A. If my understanding is correct. Which would be valid to the original question. Basically asking if XM-L2 would handle more amperage or be more efficient with the same amperage.

Don’t beat me up to bad, I’m still a newb Smile

Shadowww
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That Ninja Guy wrote:
But if direct drive, say an XM-L will pull 3A, but an XP-G will only pull 1A. If my understanding is correct. Which would be valid to the original question. Basically asking if XM-L2 would handle more amperage or be more efficient with the same amperage.

Don’t beat me up to bad, I’m still a newb Smile

Direct drive is very silly way of driving a LED. Don’t do it.
That Ninja Guy
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Shadowww wrote:
That Ninja Guy wrote:
But if direct drive, say an XM-L will pull 3A, but an XP-G will only pull 1A. If my understanding is correct. Which would be valid to the original question. Basically asking if XM-L2 would handle more amperage or be more efficient with the same amperage.

Don’t beat me up to bad, I’m still a newb Smile

Direct drive is very silly way of driving a LED. Don’t do it.

I was just trying to simplify the equation by removing the driver.
Could you clarify why it is a bad idea?
Shadowww
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That Ninja Guy wrote:
I was just trying to simplify the equation by removing the driver.
Could you clarify why it is a bad idea?
Because, with LEDs, current varies massively even with small voltage difference. And it goes against manufacturer’s (of LED) recommendations.
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Shadowww wrote:
Because, with LEDs, current varies massively even with small voltage difference.

Is that necessarily bad?

Yes, it’s not as efficient as driving an LED at 1A or 2A but we do get the peak brightness of an XM-L at 3-4A.
Plus, LED’s just don’t go poof at even 300%+ of their recommend current, specified by the manufacturer.

The HD2010, one of the most highly regarded budget lights, is in fact directly driven at High mode.

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Shadowww
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ryansoh3 wrote:
Is that necessarily bad?

Yes, it’s not as efficient as driving an LED at 1A or 2A but we do get the peak brightness of an XM-L at 3-4A.
Plus, LED’s just don’t go poof at even 300%+ of their recommend current, specified by the manufacturer.

The HD2010, one of the most highly regarded budget lights, is in fact directly driven at High mode.

What’s wrong with driving at whatever current you want using a constant-current driver? Direct drive has no advantages over constant-current drivers at all.
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Shadowww wrote:
What’s wrong with driving at whatever current you want using a constant-current driver? Direct drive has no advantages over constant-current drivers at all.

Nothing at all, except linear driver using AMC 7135’s burn the excess power as heat.
Other than that, using a constant current drivers does enable you to control the brightness. Smile

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Shadowww
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ryansoh3 wrote:
Nothing at all, except linear driver using AMC 7135’s burn the excess power as heat.
Other than that, using a constant current drivers do enable you to control the brightness. Smile
Linear drivers aren’t great either. Especially AMC7135 based ones – you can only regulate current in 350mA steps using them, so no option for moonlight and low modes without resorting to PWM.
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Shadowww wrote:
Linear drivers aren’t great either. Especially AMC7135 based ones – you can only regulate current in 350mA steps using them, so no option for moonlight and low modes without resorting to PWM.

Yup, I hope we can produce BLF style drivers, preferably a high-efficiency buck driver with BLF’s programmable codes. Party

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Shadowww
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ryansoh3 wrote:
Yup, I hope we can produce BLF style drivers, preferably a high-efficiency buck driver with BLF’s programmable codes. Party

Synchronized buck/boost drivers would be best, for those who want to run 1 cell. Buck/*boost* because draining modern 2900/3100/3400mAh cells requires boosting due to them having not-so-high voltage.
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Shadowww wrote:
Synchronized buck/boost drivers would be best, for those who want to run 1 cell. Buck/*boost* because draining modern 2900/3100/3400mAh cells requires boosting due to them having not-so-high voltage.

Modern cells can’t stay over 3.3-3.4 volts under load?

Anyways, I wonder if we can arrange something with Fasttech about our drivers. /wistful thinking

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Shadowww
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ryansoh3 wrote:
Modern cells can’t stay over 3.3-3.4 volts under load?
Nope (at over 2A)
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Shadowww wrote:
warmurf wrote:
This sounds great. So can you tell me, does this mean the XML-2 has a higher output and also will use more power- in other words have a little less run time but just more output, or has the efficiency stayed the same or better??
You’re misunderstanding a bit how LEDs work.
A LED uses exactly as much power as driver feeds it with. No matter whether you grab 10A / 40W SST-90, 3A / 10W XM-L, or 3W / 1A XP-E, if you drive them with same constant-current driver, they all will use same amount of power.

Not totally correct. P=UxI. Different LEDs have different Vf
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If someone decides to organise group buy sign me in for 2 or 3 … or 4 Big Smile

 

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Mouser shipped mine out, Qty 3, XM-L2 T6's. We will see. I got 2 cheapo Sipik SK73 zoomies, 1 with a U2 1A, other with a stock T6. I can do ceiling bounce measurements on these 2, then swap the XML T6 for the new one, interesting comparison then...

33696933
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I received the 7 xml2 this morning and quickly put them into my dry. I am loving the tint of these leds

Tom E
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33696933 - Wow! That was fast! Dunno about the DRY - single or multi LED? Was the form factor the same for mounting? Height the same? What's the tint comparable to warmer or cooler than a T6 3C? Can you notice brightness diff or can you do a ceiling bounce test w/meter?

 Sorry - lots of Q's... You are the first one known to get, see, and install these things... SmileSmile

33696933
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the dry is multi (3). it looks similar to a 3c to me

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33696933 wrote:
the dry is multi (3). it looks similar to a 3c to me

Noticeably brighter or the same?
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Ok, maybe this evening you can see how it does in brightness? From the specs for a T6, was expecting it to be at a U3 level - 2 bins higher, probably somewhat difficult to see, though in a 3 LED DRY, maybe it would be more pronounced. Also, there was speculation it will be easier to dedome tham the standard XML's - wondering about that...

 Should get mine in a couple of days, chose USPS shipping.

33696933
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tint wise it looks similar but brighter

Tom E
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Nice! Was hoping it would be noticeable. I'll be getting a lightbox in soon (maybe a few weeks) to do lumens testing from a good source, though got the light meter already. I only got 3 of these LED's coming in, but can do before/after ceiling bounce tests. Interesting to see how it does between throwers and standard lights like a C8. Actually got a brass C8 pill that it would be perfect for - I'm running a U3 1C now in the stock pill, KD V2 driver at 3.8A. If I build up the brass pill with the XM-L2 T6 with the same driver mod, same star, I can swap pills easy - would be interesting.

Crap! should have ordered more - working on mod upgrades now, but 3C tints are not for everyone's taste. Can always order 1/2 dozen more... Not certain about the removal/replacement, but I think you just use the iron w/wide tip and heat the star from below. To put the new one on, apply a little more solder to the 3 lans, then same thing - heat up from below. Did this once to reseat an emitter - seemed to work. I know their are postings on this somewhere here on BLF...

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Can you post a few macro photos of them?

33696933
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Shadowww
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For some reason, that looks.. delicious.

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I’m thinking if that thing is even dedomable? is the dome silicon or plastic? are the wires thicker than a regular xml?

That Ninja Guy
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Shadowww wrote:
For some reason, that looks.. delicious.

Like sponge cake? Big Smile
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it does look kinda tasty

i can’t wait to see what it looks like w/ an aspheric – seems to be more uniform…but maybe that’s just the pic

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i just want to bite it too* Big Smile

*or install it in small sun zy-t08 which is on the way here

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I dont know if its me but I seem to have problems driving it at higher currents

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