Ceiling bounce tests (100 lux equates to ROUGHLY 900-1000 lumens)
Bone Stock: 258 Lux at turn on, 245 lux at 30 sec (slowly dropping about 1 lux per 15-20 sec after 1m)
Maglite UCL: 272 Lux at turn on, 257 lux at 30 sec ~5% INCREASE “(quick link to upgrade)”:jmpaul320's skyray king upgrade thread UPDATED 1/12/13
Resistance Mod: COMING SOON
Resistors shipped from fasttech.com 1-12-13
Resistance mod next!!!
Original thread below
I am thinking about modding my skyray king from xml t6 3c to the new xml2t6 5000k. I realize it will only be a slight improvement over stock, but I am looking to get more comfortable with emitter swaps and modding… and this seemed like a good place to start - improving one of my favorite lights and learning something in the process. I might also add a ucl if I can find one the right size.
So I have a few questions:
Has anyone swapped or replaced emitters on the king before? If so - was it difficult? Was it difficult to center the emitters and get them to focus properly? Also what type of thermal adhesive should be used to mount the leds?
I am sure I have more questions once the discussion gets rolling. But I shut my trap and open it up to the more experience veterans of BLF.
Reuse the plastic centering isolators on each LED. Make sure the stars are the same thickness as the original stars. I'd use Fujik on it as it will allow time to center the stars. I'd center the stars by getting them loosely into position then using the reflector itself to position the emitters perfectly until the Fujik sets. Tightening the reflector to the pill will also squeeze out the excess paste for optimal heat transfer. Once the Fujik is set, remove the reflector, solder the wires to the pads, reassemble and enjoy! Should be fairly simple and straight forward. ;)
Couldn't hurt. if you have heavier gauge wires they should allow some improvement of current. I've heard of others doing the same with an under performing Mimic (SR King clone) and it made a HUGE difference. Might make a difference with an original King and certainly can't hurt anything.
I would replace the wires no matter what. I just like the Teflon coated wire. It's tough as heck. Most likely the stock wire is 30ga and that is not enough. I would go with 22ga Teflon coated, 19 strand, silver plated wire, or with 22ga Teflon coated solid wire.
i guess im going to have to wait a bit… the only place i can find to buy xml2 5000k on stars is intl outdoor…. and they are sold out… and there is a limit of 2 per customer
I bought 3 XM-L2 T6's but have only 1 left - I'd sell you the one I have for cost, but 1 won't help you much. I took O-L's recommendation on the 22 gauge teflon silver coated wire, and just got it in the other day from his referral: ebay.com 25-feet-22-AWG-Silver-Teflon-Wire-Red-19-Strands - excellent qualiity, very neatly put together by this vendor. I got the red and 1 other color -- now I need a good quality stripper, but don't we all!
Follow JohnnyMac and O-L's advice, totally agree. I've been using Arctic Alumina epoxy, but it does harden up pretty quick, not good specially if you are doing 3 at a time -- please follow JohnnyMac's advice to the "t" on this -- sounds like a perfect way to do multi emitters. I have to order some Fujik epoxy now, think FastTech has it.
Believe me, it will take a while and a few bucks to stock up on parts, tools, etc. I started basically in October on my own mods and have been learning something new just about every day since. Good things to have: decent iron w/small & large tips, DMM with 12 gauge custom leads (10-20 amp capability), good dremel style tool, light meter, SS tweezers - assorted, clamps/vise, assorted hand files (ala O-L), good needle nose, good cutters, etc.
Thanks for the link and advise Tom. Fortunately I have done a few mag mods so I have a lot of tools needed. I’ve got a nice proxxon rotary tool that puts dremels to shame
I wouldn’t use Fujik on this, simply because the led star is always firmly pressed by reflector. Much easier to just stay with the cpu thermal grease, and makes future mod or repair much easier.
Since you’re swapping XM-L2, might as well go for the resistor mod and do 3A per emitter. That would push your king to reach 3000 lumens, that would be an impressive mod.
Ok, better still - you do got some exp! I know you've been buying some mod'ed stuff from Vinh, so wasn't sure. I still got my 7G9 that I had Vinh mod from seeing your posting on it, and we pm'ed about it later. I did do the U3 and driver mod on my HD 2010 we talked about - very nice now, like it, but the 7G9 is just a beast -- still my best thrower.
I got the FastTech FandyFire version of the SRK, and really like it! Got to look-up that resistor mod - it's great now, but that would take it to the next level. Also got 5 XM-L2 U2's on the way, so maybe I'll use 3 of those on this light. Maybe the thermal grease would do as suggested, with the teflon wire and resistor mod, wow!!
For those who are torned up not getting XM-L2s, or feel they’re still overpriced, just remember XM-L U3s are available for around $5 shipped at Fasttech now. I think they’re rated 1100lm@3A, not bad against 1192lm@3A for XM-L2.
Yes - still got a couple of U3 1C's, but man, I was paying $8.50, now under $5 @FastTech!! LightMalls swears they got U3 1A's, but just can't quite convince myself they are telling the truth.
I just read that entire SRK "mod idea" thread, and wow, very interesting goings ons... Now I got to open up my FastTech FF King, and see if it matches up.
i think due to the fact that xml2 on stars are hard to come by now - I will proceed with the other parts of this mod first…. resistor, teflon wires, & maybe try and hunt down a ucl
i will be interested to see what kind of increase in output i get on just stock XML t6 3c emitters.
