Has anybody mounted an XM-L2 directly to a piece of copper yet, where you need to solder cable( s ) to the top of the led?
I’ve seen it done with the XM-L where there are the + & - contacts on top of the Led, and would like to know if the same thing is possible with the XM-L2
Cheers
Matt
I haven't done it yet, but you could easily test it by taking 2 nimh batteries in series and hooking it up to the LED on the top. (Only for a second or two though)
Ok thanks. I’ve just ordered a couple more XM-l2’s, so I’ll wait for them to arrive before I risk sacrificing my last one.
you could also check for continuity between bottom and top surfaces
Good idea, ill give it a go. Just need to check if i need to scrape anything off the surface first to expose the contacts.
I’m also interested in this, the missing contacts on the XML2 are a no-go for me. Here is what i found so far: xml2 announced!!!!
The plus is under the silicone dome, so there is no way to reach it without damaging the dome.
I would be really happy if somebody could confirm that it’s possible to solder those directly to copper with the contacts on top.
I have a few waiting to be mounted. I am waiting for DX copper PCB to arrive,
hoping that I can cut off the middle pad insulation layer & direct solder to copper under, this way, won’t need to worry about soldering top wires.
The top contacts appear to extend though out the whole top surface.
See this picture
Looks like there is a clear coating over the top surface to me. If that is the case perhaps it can be scraped off.
Yeah, it looks like you might be able to scrape any of the 4 top corners and connect onto them. 2 corners being + and 2 being -
Any news on this?
I killed an XM-l2 trying this, so, I won’t know until somebody else tries it if it was my fault, or just not possible.
Yes it does work. Pictures to prove it tomorrow.
Great news 
Would you be able to explain the process too please?
The victom J)
!
!
And it’s pedestal
pretinned after removing bottom contacts with dremel tool and grinding wheel. Took all but 2 minutes, got to love dremel.
Test to make sure that it is working
mounted to copper, i know it does not look pretty but it was my first time doing it.
Getting ready to power it up directly from AW IMR 2000mah with multimeter to check AMP’s
It is ALIVE J) :party:
Now i have no use for it but it was nice to show you guys that it can be done. Question is what amount of lumens can we get from that little bugger on that copper heat sink. The heat sink is from a video card and comes with a fan that has LED’s in it:)
My question now is if Old-lumens wants me to mail it to him for testing? If not i can give it to someone that can test the output of it, i will pay for shipping and all.
BTW it is and XM-L T6 from Digikey
Edit: My apology for the mess on my work station but it was a BZ and long day and i wanted to get it done quickly, having a few drinks didn’t help ito keep it organized.
Nice job indeed. Thanks for confirming it all works like predicted.
I’d be happy to test it with my 2.8A driver coming shortly, but alas I’m in the UK so perhaps one of the CONUS guys would welcome the opportunity.
Thanks again, nice detailed pics too
Nice! Thank you Bluecvbc for taking the cost, time & effort.
Nice job Bluecvbc
So, do you just scrape off the tiny layer of plastic coating on the top of the emitter base?
Yes, I scraped of the corners with a razor sharp knife, applied some flux and added solder. The plastic we talking about is a part of the dome and it seam to be a silicon.
Ok thanks, I might give this another go.
Thank you for the how-to on this. I initially had my doubts as well. Great thread!
