Bill Zeng (LightMalls) Comes Through With a C12, U3

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Flomotion
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Bill Zeng (LightMalls) Comes Through With a C12, U3

I have been talking to Bill Zeng of Lightmalls. Talked him into putting a U3 in a C12 host, he did it:

http://www.lightmalls.com/ultrafire-c8-cree-xm-l-u3-5-mode-led-flashligh...

http://www.lightmalls.com/ultrafire-c12-cree-xm-l-u3-5-mode-led-flashlig...

Flomotion

Edited by: Flomotion on 03/05/2013 - 18:13
FlashPilot
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They look good and I like the additional heat sinking over the C8. Lets hope they are driven to 3A+.

Zeus33
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FlashPilot wrote:
Lets hope they are driven to 3A+.

It says:
Max 4000mA Current Output (manufacturer rated)

Hopefully Flomotion can find out for us what it’s actually running at.

Flomotion
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Zeus33 wrote:
FlashPilot wrote:
Lets hope they are driven to 3A+.

It says:
Max 4000mA Current Output (manufacturer rated)

Hopefully Flomotion can find out for us what it’s actually running at.

Just emailed him, of course their night is day in the US, but he did make a posting error in called it a C8, when it is a C12. I did recommend a brass pill, and at least a 4 amp driver, but the build is just out, and I don’t have a sample, yet…

Flomotion

gords1001
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He made a slight mistake in the output too, an xm-l2 wont do 1800 lumen at 5a, and at the vf is over what a single li-ion can supply.

Price is good though, I’d expect about 1000 lumen otf.

To give you an idea. An xintd c8 u3 is rated at 900 lumen at 2.8 -3a. At 4a the heat sag and voltage sag is really going to be an issue.

Now, any coupon codes for light malls? :bigsmile:

Rusty Joe
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gords1001 wrote:
He made a slight mistake in the output too, an xm-l2 wont do 1800 lumen at 5a, and at the vf is over what a single li-ion can supply.

Price is good though, I’d expect about 1000 lumen otf.

To give you an idea. An xintd c8 u3 is rated at 900 lumen at 2.8 -3a. At 4a the heat sag and voltage sag is really going to be an issue.

Now, any coupon codes for light malls? :bigsmile:

Alright! A C12 u3! Good going, Flowmotion!

But I’d say a U3 – if driven to 4 amps – would do over 1,200 otf (at start-up, anyway, before dropping off a good bit. And yes, the sag would be an issue). You have to factor in the effect of that huge pill. The T6 was doing like 930 otf, someone said. I’m gonna be optimistic about this one!

Stittville Ed
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Looks like a nice light for sure

18sixfifty
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gords1001 wrote:
He made a slight mistake in the output too, an xm-l2 wont do 1800 lumen at 5a, and at the vf is over what a single li-ion can supply.

Price is good though, I’d expect about 1000 lumen otf.

To give you an idea. An xintd c8 u3 is rated at 900 lumen at 2.8 -3a. At 4a the heat sag and voltage sag is really going to be an issue.

Now, any coupon codes for light malls? :bigsmile:

There is one around someplace. $2 off twenty and $5 off fifty if I remember correctly. I’ll try and find it.

I’m a junky, I mod lights so I can sell lights so I can buy more light to mod so I can sell lights to buy more lights to mod.

18sixfifty
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Coupon Code: fa13t2cou
save $2 on any order $20 or up ,Limited time offer: Valid Until 03/27/13.

Coupon Code: fa13t5cou5
save $5 on any order $50 or up ,Limited time offer: Valid Until 03/27/13.

Coupon Code: fa13t12cou12
save $12 on any order $150 or up ,Limited time offer: Valid Until 03/27/13.

I’m a junky, I mod lights so I can sell lights so I can buy more light to mod so I can sell lights to buy more lights to mod.

gords1001
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Cheers. I may not use it but at least others can benefit. :bigsmile:

blueb8llz
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ill be keeping an eye on this

applevalleyjoe
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18sixfifty wrote:
Coupon Code: fa13t2cou
save $2 on any order $20 or up ,Limited time offer: Valid Until 03/27/13.

Coupon Code: fa13t5cou5
save $5 on any order $50 or up ,Limited time offer: Valid Until 03/27/13.

Coupon Code: fa13t12cou12
save $12 on any order $150 or up ,Limited time offer: Valid Until 03/27/13.

THANKS.

PyTech
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thx for link

-Sean

Ubehebe
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Well, got mine today and am disappointed.

  • Emitter offcenter.
  • Annodizing missing on 1/4” section of front bezel.
  • Light unusable at arrival because of flickering from loose switch.
  • MORE flickering light from poorly soldered ground from driver to pill.

Fortunately, being a BLF-educated flashaholic in good standing, those issues were fixed in a few minutes, BUT

  • Even after visually recentered emitter, emitter center spot on wall is misshapen, irregular and slightly offcenter.
  • Although I got a 3.5 DMM reading at the tailcap, brightness looks low for a 3.5 with a U3. I have a $15 Ultrafire U2 C8 that is pretty much 20% brighter. xin c8, x5-t6 supfire, uniquefire c10 best it in white-wall hunting.

BUT it is still daylight here, so I will check after dark. Maybe it’s one of those lights that don’t seem to do well in WWH and then slay all comers in real-life after-dark tests.

Still, considering it was unusable out of the box and still has an oddly offcenter hotspot even after recentering the emitter, I’ll have to give this light a thumbs down at this point. Too bad. It had a lot of potential. Maybe I got a woofer and the rest of you will get stellar light sabers. But I’ll have to give it the official Ubehebe frowning face Sad .

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Ubehebe wrote:
Well, got mine today and am disappointed.
  • Emitter offcenter.
  • Annodizing missing on 1/4” section of front bezel.
  • Light unusable at arrival because of flickering from loose switch.
  • MORE flickering light from poorly soldered ground from driver to pill.

Fortunately, being a BLF-educated flashaholic in good standing, those issues were fixed in a few minutes, BUT

  • Even after visually recentered emitter, emitter center spot on wall is misshapen, irregular and slightly offcenter.
  • Although I got a 3.5 DMM reading at the tailcap, brightness looks low for a 3.5 with a U3. I have a $15 Ultrafire U2 C8 that is pretty much 20% brighter. xin c8, x5-t6 supfire, uniquefire c10 best it in white-wall hunting.

BUT it is still daylight here, so I will check after dark. Maybe it’s one of those lights that don’t seem to do well in WWH and then slay all comers in real-life after-dark tests.

Still, considering it was unusable out of the box and still has an oddly offcenter hotspot even after recentering the emitter, I’ll have to give this light a thumbs down at this point. Too bad. It had a lot of potential. Maybe I got a woofer and the rest of you will get stellar light sabers. But I’ll have to give it the official Ubehebe frowning face Sad .

i guess i’m not the only one that got crappy C12 U3.. my C12 U3 hotspot is also misshapen, try to adjust the reflector but to no avail Sad
the C8 U3 from the lightmalls is much cheaper and much…much brighter, heck even their C12 XM-L is much brighter Sad
for the price.. just buy their C8 XM-L2 which also excellent ( slightly brighter than their C8 U3)

The only way to do a great work is to love what you do.

Ubehebe
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Tried it outside in real-world conditions: Absolutely the dimmest C8-style light out of the 10 or so C8-style lights in my collection. Dimmer than 3 T6s, various U2s and a couple Fasttech U3 emitters in C8s …. Remember this is supposed to be a killer U3 emitter. Probably 30% or more less bright (by eye) than the xin c8. This lightmalls light is an honest-to-goodness woofer. Save your money. Wish I did.

Plus, as previously mentioned, the center spot is oddly misshapen with a weird hot spot inside the offcenter spot. The cheapest C8 I have is an absolute piece-of-you-know-what from Meritline. Looks like the meritline c8 (cheesy plastic reflector and all) was assembled by a grade schooler, and even that is brighter with a better beam pattern than this Lightmalls light.

The driver is pushing a solid 3.5 at the tailcap, so the power is there. I’ll probably try a new emitter in it. But addng a U3 emmitter to a light that supposedly already has one will push the overall cost into the ridiculous range for a so-so C12. Coulda bought a venerable Xin for the price.

What kinda ticks me is that this light was positioned as a special build for LED enthusiasts, something above average — when it’s anything but. Then again maybe good examples of this build exist, and the two described in this thread were exceptions to the rule. I don’t think that’s the case, but stranger things have happened I suppose.

blueb8llz
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thanks for the heads up guys. guess the kd and keygo’s c8 is still my top brightest and favorite c8 styles

18sixfifty
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This stinks I have the MX-L2 model on the way I hope it’s better than this. I used a $10 store credit so if it’s too big a dud I can play around and mod it.

Can the reflector be swapped out?

I’m a junky, I mod lights so I can sell lights so I can buy more light to mod so I can sell lights to buy more lights to mod.

Ubehebe
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>>>>>This stinks I have the MX-L2 model on the way

Hopefully you’ll have better luck. I think the emitters in this build are bad. I think that offcenter hotspot is in the U3 dome. What else could it be? It’s centered in the reflector. I compared the reflector to other C8s and the way the emitter is centered looks to be the same. Maybe they toasted the emitters when they stuck them on the stars? Either that or it’s the dimmest batch of U3s on the planet. As I said, every T6 I have is brighter than this.

>>>>Can the reflector be swapped out?

Theoretically the c12 reflector is the same size as the c8.

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I e-mailed sunny from lightmalls.. she wants a video of it for proof.. :~ anyway, i’ll send her a video showing how low the output was compare to another C8 U3 from lightmalls, if i get the credit, i’ll tell her to send me a C8 XM-L2 instead, definitely better for the bucks.

The only way to do a great work is to love what you do.

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Too late for any videos for me. Put in a brand-new Fasttech U3. Driver stopped working. Huh? What? All I did was resolder two wires. Tried everything to revive it, but she is gone.

Put in a new fasrtech driver. So now I have the world’s most expensive C12.

Much brighter, but there’s still weird artifacts around the center spot. Will play with it later. Maybe switch out the reflector, but that’s it for me with lightmalls. Had a bad previous experience with another order, so stick a fork in me, I’m done with ‘em. They ripped me twice. Won’t happen a third time.

Ubehebe
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Also this fasttech driver and emitter combo heats the C12’s fins right up. With the original driver and emitter — although the emitter read 3.5 at the tailcap — the fins didn’t even get warm after 5 minutes. Now they start warming up after 45 seconds. Something wasn’t right with the original driver and emitter.

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Ubehebe wrote:
Also this fasttech driver and emitter combo heats the C12’s fins right up. With the original driver and emitter — although the emitter read 3.5 at the tailcap — the fins didn’t even get warm after 5 minutes. Now they start warming up after 45 seconds. Something wasn’t right with the original driver and emitter.

which driver did you use from fasttech? link?
maybe i’ll change mine too

The only way to do a great work is to love what you do.

Ubehebe
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>>>>>which driver did you use from fasttech?

https://www.fasttech.com/products/1127403

And then I used their 16mm u3 emitter. I have had very good luck with this emitter/driver combo. It took serious fiddling to get the reflector lined up with the emitter enough to get the artifact to mostly disappear. There is no little plastic ring guide on the emitter to center the reflector.

BUT, you might want to try the existing driver. It seemed to work just fine with a new u3 and then poof it didn’t work at all. The reason for the dim light SEEMED to be a funky emitter.

As I said to Gary in a PM:

This budget light had GREAT potential. Someone just didn’t implement it correctly.

With the fasttech parts, I have a light that kicks butt the way the original Lightmalls c12 u3 should have. In fact in some desert tests last night, I’d say the revamped c12 is now as bright as the xin c8 or maybe even a hair brighter. The xin c8 is pretty much my consistently brightest c8-style light. (except for maybe the ke-5.) So it’s too bad they messed it up, it could have been a KILLER light.

I don’t know what the heck they used for an emitter. My original lightmalls driver worked for a few minutes when I first intsalled the replacement U3 —- and that emitter with the original driver also BRIEFLY kicked butt. It was severely bright. Was the original emitter a toasted T6 or U3? What the heck was it? I had to really mess it up to get it out of the pill. It was really glued in, so I won’t be able to play with it and see its real output.

ohaya
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Hi,

Are there any current working codes for lightmalls?

Thanks,
Jim

blueb8llz
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reporting back….my lightmalls c8 xml2 and c12 arrived today…finally, took about a month.

as i stated earlier, i dont have a lux meter or any kinda meter. but by judging with my eyes, comparing to some flashlights that i have with confirmed lumens, id say they are both around the 1000-1200 max mark.

both lights have almost identical beam pattern. the c8 has more of a cooler tint but nowhere close to being purple or anything. while the c12 is a bit more warm. they both have a outer ring around the beam.
the flood and spill is very big. its one of the floodiest c8’s out there in fact without having a orange peel reflector.

let me tell you guys, i have a thing with c8’s and i have had quite a few, and this light malls c8 is the bomb! its not completely dark here yet, but it looks as though its outhrowing my c8 champ, the kdc8!

c12 is not bad, but get the c8 xml2 instead!