Tangsfire C8 XM-L2 U3 Review

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freeme
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It is probably the inner measurement.

Nbabu wrote:
This is the measurements in the openings post:

The reflector is smooth aluminium, 35 mm deep and 40mm wide

Hope that helps

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Tom E
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I posted the measurements in post #88, using a caliper. The KD one is the closest.

Nbabu
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Nbabu wrote:
Mine should arrive any day now. I think I’ll improve it and will give it as a present to a friend.

I was thinking about soldering some braid at the tailcap and changing the wires from the driver to the led. But what width should the braid be? And what diameter should the replacement wires be?

Could someone please answer my questions? I’ve got some desoldering wik that is about 1,5/2 mm width. Would that be enough?

What kind of wire should I use to improve current flow to the led?

“Trout are freshwater fish and have underwater weapons”

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Nbabu wrote:
Nbabu wrote:
Mine should arrive any day now. I think I’ll improve it and will give it as a present to a friend.

I was thinking about soldering some braid at the tailcap and changing the wires from the driver to the led. But what width should the braid be? And what diameter should the replacement wires be?

Could someone please answer my questions? I’ve got some desoldering wik that is about 1,5/2 mm width. Would that be enough?

What kind of wire should I use to improve current flow to the led?

I personally wouldn’t bother with it for this particular light, but to upgrade other lights I use 2mm wik and 22 awg silicone wire.

Tom E
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Doing both those things - copper braiding the springs and beefing up the wires can be dangerous territory of amps, depending on the battery of course. But for solder wick copper braid, I use 1 mm. I find the 1.5 mm too heavy, thick to work with, but maybe it's tougher - will hold up better. For wires, I use 22 gauge or 24 gauge silicone coated, but prefer 22 gauge if the wire thickness is not too much in the way of seating the reflector. mtnelectronics.com is a great source for wires. Before RMM's store, I bought from RC Hobby I believe.

The solder wick I use is this: fasttech - 1.0mm. It's cheap stuff. I soak the piece first with isopropyl alcohol to remove residues.

Nbabu
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That will help me on my way for my first mod! Thanks alot guys!

To bad I’m situated in Northern Europe and not the USA. Seems it is really alot harder to come by decent electronic parts, wires and tools here. But I’m going to try my luck at a R/C store.

I was planning to run it on either on a protected panasonic or a protected trustfire flame. It was my understanding that these batteries are not able to supply the amount of ampere that would take it anyware near the dangerzone (wich would be 4 to 5 amps I guess?). But then, I am a total newb when it comes to modding flashlights. So if I’m doing anything stupid, please tell me!

I do think the C8 I got is underdriven, given its performance compared to the beamshots earlyer in this tread. But I do still have to test the light with a fully charged panasonic as soon as my new charger arrives.

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and one good charger you go better

Tom E
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Yes - all true. Should be ok with a regular protected Panasonic or TrustFire. Forgot, but you may be in the low 3A's with those cells, so may be less bright than the pics.

bibihang
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I have an off-topic question here. I remember the Lightmalls C8 was discussed a lot here before and its driver was known with direct-drive in high, is that true? If it is, how would this Tangsfire C8 compared with the Lightmalls C8?

mm166
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I got mine yesterday. Max I can get is 2.6A on both protected and unprotected pannies.
Mine S2 draws more – 2.8A lol…. I was hoping to get at least 3.6A. Well, still not bad for price. Do you guys think the only way to incrase amps is by changing driver, right?

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That's pretty weird. Just checked mine on Pana protected and unprotected and got 3.5A.

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bibihang wrote:
I have an off-topic question here. I remember the "Lightmalls C8":http://www.lightmalls.com/ultrafire-c8-cree-xm-l-u3-1800-lumen-5-modes-l... was discussed a lot here before and its driver was known with direct-drive in high, is that true? If it is, how would this Tangsfire C8 compared with the Lightmalls C8?

Both are direct drive. I think they are comparable. Got the stock TF C8, but got an old LM C8 heavily mod'ed though.

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Mine came last week and it throw better than my Convoy L4 :bigsmile:

May the light be with you…

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Tom E wrote:

That’s pretty weird. Just checked mine on Pana protected and unprotected and got 3.5A.

Got 3.5 on mine on a Pd also.

Muto
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mm166 wrote:
I got mine yesterday. Max I can get is 2.6A on both protected and unprotected pannies. Mine S2 draws more – 2.8A lol…. I was hoping to get at least 3.6A. Well, still not bad for price. Do you guys think the only way to incrase amps is by changing driver, right?

Try this,
EDIT; Ignore this part, my mistake, it does not like to be reversed, Sorry Unscrew the body tube and reverse it, screw it back in tight and then measure the amp draw again. If it increases it will be because it is getting a better ground path.

Clean the threads with some CRC 2-26 or an equivalent and reassemble.
If no difference, hold battery on spring with no tube, press one DMM wire to negative end of battery and put other DMM wire down to the driver ground ring area and see what amp draw is. This will at least troubleshoot the electrical losses of the tube connection, if any.
Then if the amps aren’t 3.5 or so, braid the driver spring.

HTH
Keith

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.“I will get one of flashlight from patrol car”

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freeme
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Gain a little bit of amp (2.7>3.3A), after cleaning the inner screw threads of driver and its retaining ring.

Muto wrote:
mm166 wrote:
I got mine yesterday. Max I can get is 2.6A on both protected and unprotected pannies. Mine S2 draws more – 2.8A lol…. I was hoping to get at least 3.6A. Well, still not bad for price. Do you guys think the only way to incrase amps is by changing driver, right?

Try this,
Unscrew the body tube and reverse it, screw it back in tight and then measure the amp draw again. If it increases it will be because it is getting a better ground path.
Clean the threads with some CRC 2-26 or an equivalent, reverse and reassemble.
If no difference, hold battery on spring with no tube, press one DMM wire to negative end of battery and put other DMM wire down to the driver ground ring area and see what amp draw is. This will at least troubleshoot the electrical losses of the tube connection, if any.
Then if the amps aren’t 3.5 or so, braid the driver spring.

HTH
Keith

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saypat
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freeme wrote:
Gain a little bit of amp (2.7>3.3A), after cleaning the inner screw threads of driver and its retaining ring.
Muto wrote:
mm166 wrote:
I got mine yesterday. Max I can get is 2.6A on both protected and unprotected pannies. Mine S2 draws more – 2.8A lol…. I was hoping to get at least 3.6A. Well, still not bad for price. Do you guys think the only way to incrase amps is by changing driver, right?

Try this,
Unscrew the body tube and reverse it, screw it back in tight and then measure the amp draw again. If it increases it will be because it is getting a better ground path.
Clean the threads with some CRC 2-26 or an equivalent, reverse and reassemble.
If no difference, hold battery on spring with no tube, press one DMM wire to negative end of battery and put other DMM wire down to the driver ground ring area and see what amp draw is. This will at least troubleshoot the electrical losses of the tube connection, if any.
Then if the amps aren’t 3.5 or so, braid the driver spring.

HTH
Keith

crazy world of flashlights. I know zero ‘bout electronics but I thought I would try this from someone who does know. I was getting about 2.2 on high with my Flame 2400 at about 75% (hey, maybe I do know something Smile ) I took the body apart, reversed it and tried to screw it in but it wouldn’t. I did not want to force it, why ruin my light? Tried it twice. Took some WD-40 and put it on the threads and put it back together like it was. Another reading showed 2.4! So cleaning the threads gets more amps? Think I read that somewhere before but it doesn’t compute here.

Braid the driver spring – sounds like a band.

Muto
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I did this body tube reversal on another C8, not this Tangsfire.
saypat is right, it does not want to thread the other way.
Sorry for the bad info.

Just clean the threads and see if amps increase on this particular flashlight.
I edited my orig post.
Thanks,
Keith

The difference between Hoarding and Collecting is the illusion of Organization
.
.“I will get one of flashlight from patrol car”

“History doesn’t repeat itself, but it sometimes rhymes,” Mark Twain

After the Apocalypse there will be only 2 things left alive, Cockroaches and Keith Richards

freeme
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Tube is not reversible. It will not screw all the way into the head.

saypat wrote:
freeme wrote:
Gain a little bit of amp (2.7>3.3A), after cleaning the inner screw threads of driver and its retaining ring.
Muto wrote:
mm166 wrote:
I got mine yesterday. Max I can get is 2.6A on both protected and unprotected pannies. Mine S2 draws more – 2.8A lol…. I was hoping to get at least 3.6A. Well, still not bad for price. Do you guys think the only way to incrase amps is by changing driver, right?

Try this,
Unscrew the body tube and reverse it, screw it back in tight and then measure the amp draw again. If it increases it will be because it is getting a better ground path.
Clean the threads with some CRC 2-26 or an equivalent, reverse and reassemble.
If no difference, hold battery on spring with no tube, press one DMM wire to negative end of battery and put other DMM wire down to the driver ground ring area and see what amp draw is. This will at least troubleshoot the electrical losses of the tube connection, if any.
Then if the amps aren’t 3.5 or so, braid the driver spring.

HTH
Keith

crazy world of flashlights. I know zero ‘bout electronics but I thought I would try this from someone who does know. I was getting about 2.2 on high with my Flame 2400 at about 75% (hey, maybe I do know something Smile ) I took the body apart, reversed it and tried to screw it in but it wouldn’t. I did not want to force it, why ruin my light? Tried it twice. Took some WD-40 and put it on the threads and put it back together like it was. Another reading showed 2.4! So cleaning the threads gets more amps? Think I read that somewhere before but it doesn’t compute here.

Braid the driver spring – sounds like a band.

1thedeals.comyoutubeAstroluxNealsgadgetsolight

relic38
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I received mine today, and proceeded to break it Wink
It’s a nice light, I like the host, finish is almost as good as a Convoy C8. C8 is a little better in that regard. Unless finish is a reall pcky thing for you, this one is good to go. Only fit issue I see is the provided tailcap O-ring is too thin and does not seat properly.
I modded it for better output (forgot to measure it first). Emitter on a sinkpad, bigger driver wires, spring mods, and thermal paste on pill threads.
I was getting almost 7A at the tailcap on a Pana NCRB (without the tailcap itself. I’m getting closer to 6A with the modded tailcap. The catch? Driver is now one-mode… didn’t like the current I guess. Oh well, it’s a thrower.
Beam is excellent. Perfectly defined hotspot with a nice halo and smooth outer spill. This reflector is deeper than a standard reflector, so no dice with getting an OP reflector for it (Convoy one is too short). I have not seen a deep C8 OP reflector, maybe there is one?
Head is a bit longer due to the reflector length, so the TangsFire is about 3mm longer than the Convoy.
I like the light, and I think it is good. Between the Convoy and this, I still lean toward the Convoy. If you are after maximum throw, the TangsFire may have the edge (haven’t measured anything yet).

Welcome the night.

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I received mine mine few weeks ago. The driver has no “East-092” wording on it but it is a legit direct drive driver. Here are the amp results with different batteries tested at the taip (without tailcap):

Trustfire “3100mAh” Flames: 3.07A
Panasonic PF 2900mAh: 4.8A
Samsung INR 20R: 5.6A

All of the batteries were not freshly charged. The 20R was measured at about 4.12V before inserting it into the light. No copper braid was used nor changing into thicker wires. Everything is in stock condition.

I love it, the driver is so damn powerful!! Shocked

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Not sure if it is okay to share this in a Tangsfire C8 thread. I bought two cheap Ultrafire C8 from Aurabuy last year, each for $7.99. Both of them turn out to be real direct drive on high. I measure 4.3 – 4.4A in both of them with INR 20R while the wires to the LED are so thin. I can expect a >5A current draw after I replace the wires and do copper braiding.

The build quality of the Aurabuy C8 are inconsistent on the pill and switch. For that price I could just harvest their drivers and other usable parts.

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Ouchyfoot wrote:
They may be coated, but with what, and is the coating AR.

Given his Avatar, I’d say…breakfast, and no, probably not.

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