Sportac P60 3x Nichia 219 High CRI Review (now with pictures)

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THS89
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Sportac P60 3x Nichia 219 High CRI Review (now with pictures)

So I got my sportac dropin from going gear today.

Popped it in my new solarforce L2P host.

I LOVE IT !!!

There is so much light. At least 600-700 lumens from the 3x nichia is my guess.

The tint is amazing. A bit on the red side. Feels a hit rosy or warm but MUCH better than the Cree cool white tints I have had so far.

The host warms up FAST. I guess the heat is being transfered from the module to the L2P host very well.

It’s more floody but has a decent throw. IMHO it is perfect. Even floddy hotspot that gradually transitions to a spill. It is perfect I think.

1 mode only but its ok and the forward clicky momentary on the L2P is perfect.

UPDATE: Pics added. Will update with outdoor shots when it’s dark outside. Note that it is much brighter than it seems here. These were taken on my phone (Galaxy Note 2)

Measured a roughly 2A current draw at the tailcap.

Looks awesome.

Very high quality brass with glass lens on module.

My phone’s camera shows it as yellow for some reason here. The autobalance on it keeps adjusting it. This is NOT how it looks in real life.

Again the phone adjusted it. This looks closer to how it appears in real life but a but pinker and warmer. It has a smooth wide hotspot with a nice transition to spill.

The spill has a triangular shape (due to triple emitters)

Very floody. This is on a light yellow fake-wood table.

Again, the phone doesn’t show the color right. It is not as yellow as it appears here. It’s like a warmer neutral white with a pinkish tint.

Edited by: THS89 on 01/04/2014 - 13:06
xxx
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thanks for quick review THS89.

planning to using in my solarforce host.

Ecko404
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Only one mode right?

jerrod
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I got my triple Nichia and I am pretty happy with it. The tint looks very close to my Nichia 219 L10. Brightness wise it is much less bright then my XinTD C8 V4. I tried it with a 3400mAh Panasonic and also with a Panasonic NCR18650PF. It was a bit brighter on the PF cell. I think it might do better with multiple cells (but I don’t have any 16340s or 18350s to try that out).

oRAirwolf
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What is the difference between the Surefire and 18650 base body models? Shouldn’t they be interchangeable?

southland
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Don’t think any Surefire and Solarforce interchange. Surefires are made for CR123 batteries and have to be bored to accept 18650. Solarforces takes both batteries.

THS89 If the P60 is not fitting tightly in the host you can wrap it with aluminum strips cut from a Coke can for better head transfer.

kralyevski
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pictures please Big Smile

“the easiest way to become a MILLIONAIRE is: first you become a BILLIONAIRE than you start to be flashaholic”

southland
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Cut the sides of the aluminum can into strips that are as wide as the flat area of the dropin, the part above the spring and below the tapered part of the reflector. Wrap the can strips around the dropin to increase the size of the dropin so it fits snuggly into the host. Start off with a long piece 4 or 5 inches long and trim small bits of the length until the wrapped dropin is small enough to fit into the host. You want a tight fit for the best heat transfer. link

THS89
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southland wrote:
Don’t think any Surefire and Solarforce interchange. Surefires are made for CR123 batteries and have to be bored to accept 18650. Solarforces takes both batteries.

THS89 If the P60 is not fitting tightly in the host you can wrap it with aluminum strips cut from a Coke can for better head transfer.

Don’t think I need to. I dont hear any rattle and the host warms up fast which means a good contact.

One thing I don’t like is that the tint is a bit too rosy or pink/purple. Hard to describe.

Is this normal for nichia 219 ? It doesn’t show blues too well. Way too pink/purple IMHO.

wertzius
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A pinkish tint is normal for the Nichia CRI 92.

Hikelite
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THS89 wrote:
........ One thing I don't like is that the tint is a bit too rosy or pink/purple. Hard to describe. Is this normal for nichia 219 ? It doesn't show blues too well. Way too pink/purple IMHO.

SW45 is the tint, Nichia 219 mean basically nothing more than CREE XM-L.

Now think about that 3C is not a very tint tight, SW45 covers the same space as 4B 4C 4A and 4D at the same time, some will be more pinky some less.

comfychair
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Ecko404 wrote:
Only one mode right?

Yes, any lower modes would be too easily confused with 'off'.

THS89
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Hikelite wrote:

THS89 wrote:
…….. One thing I don’t like is that the tint is a bit too rosy or pink/purple. Hard to describe. Is this normal for nichia 219 ? It doesn’t show blues too well. Way too pink/purple IMHO.

SW45 is the tint, Nichia 219 mean basically nothing more than CREE XM-L.

Now think about that 3C is not a very tint tight, SW45 covers the same space as 4B 4C 4A and 4D at the same time, some will be more pinky some less.

Doing some Google searches I see that some show as pink like mine yet others show as pure white.

Tbh considering how much I spent I would really prefer if it wasn’t so pink. If I get it exchanged any chance the replacement won’t be so pink? Was really hoping for a more neutral white.

Hikelite
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That specific SW45 tint has a color temperature that ranges from 4260K to 4745K, so based on that alone you cannot have a pure neutral white as the words imply.

THS89
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Hikelite wrote:

That specific SW45 tint has a color temperature that ranges from 4260K to 4745K, so based on that alone you cannot have a pure neutral white as the words imply.

Wow pretty big range. I guess mine ended up on the low end of that Sad

I’ll email going gear and ask if a replacement if possible. If not oh well. Still better than any other led I have had. I have a NW D40A on the way so guess I’ll see how the tints compare.

THS89
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comfychair wrote:

Ecko404 wrote:
Only one mode right?

Yes, any lower modes would be too easily confused with ‘off’.

Would be nice if it had atleast 1 lower mode. It isn’t too usefull with just the high because it overheats really fast. Cant use it for more than a few min. Have to let it cool down.

I might try putting some aluminum foil or maybe some arctic silver to help with heat transfer.

comfychair
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Define 'overheats' - if you mean it gets hot in your hand, improving the heat transfer between the dropin and the body will make it get hot in your hand quicker. Which is good for the LEDs and the light output. The quicker the outside of the light gets hot, the cooler the LEDs will be running.

Color temp alone doesn't tell you much, look how the color temp changes as you move up-down on this chart...

http://flashlightwiki.com/images/c/cb/Ansi-white.jpg

p.s. Thanks for not allowing hotlinking, flashlightwiki! Angry

THS89
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comfychair wrote:

Define ‘overheats’ – if you mean it gets hot in your hand, improving the heat transfer between the dropin and the body will make it get hot in your hand quicker. Which is good for the LEDs and the light output. The quicker the outside of the light gets hot, the cooler the LEDs will be running.

Color temp alone doesn’t tell you much, look how the color temp changes as you move up-down on this chart…

http://flashlightwiki.com/images/c/cb/Ansi-white.jpg

p.s. Thanks for not allowing hotlinking, flashlightwiki! Angry

Not so worried about it getting hot in my hand.

More worried about the driver or emitters cooking inside !!!

Hikelite
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comfychair wrote:

....

Color temp alone doesn't tell you much, look how the color temp changes as you move up-down on this chart...

.....

On an upper post tried saying that with the whole 4A-4D tints coverage

 

Ecko404
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I asked because they don’t specify on their website.
Would have been cool if they used their eagletac output groups like on the D25 etc.

comfychair
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THS89 wrote:
Not so worried about it getting hot in my hand. More worried about the driver or emitters cooking inside !!!

That's only really possible if the outside doesn't get hot. I test little tube lights running at over 4 amps by dropping in a freshly charged battery, switching it on, and letting it run on high until the driver's low voltage protection kicks in an hour later. They still work afterwards.

THS89
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I guess mine has a bit more 4A, 4D than 4B 4C

In real life it is pretty close to the 4R, 4U and 5R. Really pink with a hint of purple.

comfychair
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Amp draw?

Hikelite
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Just keep in mind that at that temperature pure white in true sense of the word is not possible. You need to go to around 5500K for that but there are no real acceptable CRI for that on the market except XB-D 3C from IOS

wertzius
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You see purely white pictures of Nichia 219AT 4500k CRI92 Beamshots because the white balance in the camera is changeable. This LED is known for pinkish light and that is no reason for sending it back.

THS89
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wertzius wrote:

You see purely white pictures of Nichia 219AT 4500k CRI92 Beamshots because the white balance in the camera is changeable. This LED is known for pinkish light and that is no reason for sending it back.

Yup you are right I think. My galaxy note 2’s camera sees it as pure white and doesn’t pick up any pink. Overall it’s still far better than the ugly green so it’s all good.

THS89
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Just updated with images. I will get outdoor shots when it gets dark.

THS89
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comfychair wrote:

Amp draw?

About 2 amps using a single 18650

Hikelite
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THS89 wrote:
comfychair wrote:

Amp draw?

About 2 amps using a single 18650

If that is a buck driver, the output is a bit higher than the input. I wouldn't see Eagletac using linear drivers, but who knows.

THS89
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Hikelite wrote:

THS89 wrote:
comfychair wrote:

Amp draw?

About 2 amps using a single 18650

If that is a buck driver, the output is a bit higher than the input. I wouldn’t see Eagletac using linear drivers, but who knows.

Sportaclight.com says:

C3000 LED driver
Sportac P60 LED Dropin uses highly efficient synchronous buck current regulated circuit that controls the precious amount of current that goes through the LED
This results in constant brightness output regardless of LED variation, battery voltage, and temperature change. We utilize low RDS high power external mosfets, rugged & shielded power inductor, low ESR tantalum capacitors, and low resistance 2 oz copper PCB for maximum efficiency. This also lower required input voltage to current regulate the LED at maximum output when the battery voltage is near the LED forward voltage (i.e. longer regulated runtime with single li-ion battery).

Whatever that means lol

I’ll measure again with the good meter later. This old one has no leads so I used some thin wires. Might be affecting the number.

Hikelite
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The number will actually drop a bit if you know use thicker and shorter leads (which you should anyway) at the same identical cell voltage as you measured before. If the driver sees more voltage doesn't need to draw as much current, since I see we are talking about buck regulation and that is how it should be while the battery is got more than 50% capacity left and it's a good cell (not to enter in a lof of details but regarding how the Vin should be over the Vf of the LED, etc)

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