[sold out] SKY RAY 6 x Cree XM-L2 T6 3-Mode Cool White Light Flashlight - Black (4 x 18650) US$ 25,76 free shipping @ DX

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max
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Is this the MOSFET to buy:
MOSFET 70N02

???

dchomak wrote:
Ouchyfoot wrote:
Yeah. The driver is junk. Start planning.
I just got finished with some mods on this light and driver.

First of all, I am no driver expert, but as far as potential output from this driver, I think it can be VERY good. Here is a pic of the 70N02 MOSFET that I just swapped in. The 70N02 has super low resistance when passing a lot of Amps. Look at the circuit board. The entire perimeter of this driver is a sea of copper clad circuit trace that all leads to the Source pin of the FET. The Drain of the FET is just a few mm from L-. The positive ring on the cell side of the driver is connected directly to L+ through the vias that can be seen just under L+. These are all direct connections already, unlike the highly regarded JB driver that has current limiting resistors that have to be shunted in order to get what this drive already has STOCK. As long as that FET is drivin to full ON when on high, nothing could be better. If I am missing something here, someone please point it out. Sure, maybe with the original 35N03 FET it sucked, but now it rocks.
Before

After

All of the XM-L2s are mounted directly onto 1 star that has its own traces connecting them in parallel. Nothing I could do there. What I did do was replace the 24 gauge lead wires with some 16 gauge wire I picked up at Cables and Connectors. they only had 25 feet on the spool, so I bought all they had. I think it might be silver plated copper, but I can’t be sure. They didn’t know what they had as they got the spool as part of a liquidation buy.

It’s definitely copper underneath, what I don’t know is if it is silver on the outside. They said it was test lead wire. It’s nice stuff, just not silcone or teflon.

I have yet to do the spring mod, but as of now, my subjective guess is that it is twice as bright as it was. Before these 2 mods is was about as bright as a modded 3 XM-L SRK with tail spring mod, lead mod and FET swap to 70N02. That also was a cheap, non JB driver.

 

 max

dchomak
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Yes, that is where to get them, comfychair first gave that link awhile back.

_the_
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Unfortunately that seller doesn't ship outside US. Sad

Does anyone know any shop shipping those MOSFETs to Europe? Or could anyone in US please help me to buy some and send to Finland?

=the=

 

leaftye
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_the_ wrote:

Unfortunately that seller doesn't ship outside US. Sad

Does anyone know any shop shipping those MOSFETs to Europe? Or could anyone in US please help me to buy some and send to Finland?

Have you checked: http://www.digikey.fi/

The low mode should be lower.

_the_
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leaftye wrote:

_the_ wrote:

Unfortunately that seller doesn't ship outside US. Sad

Does anyone know any shop shipping those MOSFETs to Europe? Or could anyone in US please help me to buy some and send to Finland?

Have you checked: http://www.digikey.fi/

Thanks, but it's out of stock there. [If I read the table correctly]

=the=

 

ryansoh3
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dchomak, were you able to measure a noticeable increase in current or brightness after the mod?

Would be absolutely nice to drive this beast to its full potential.

The mode spacing seems fine after the mod? How is the PWM?

Sorry for all the questions, just excited to get mine haha.

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_the_
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_the_ wrote:

Unfortunately that seller doesn't ship outside US. Sad

Does anyone know any shop shipping those MOSFETs to Europe? Or could anyone in US please help me to buy some and send to Finland?

Got them ordered via a friendly US-based forum member. Thank you very much for your help! Smile

=the=

 

daysoft
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http://www.ebay.de/itm/NIKOS-P70N02LDG-TO-252-/221240683541?pt=Bauteile&...

or can also an US-Member sells me one or two and send it to germany?

max
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Our illustirous RMM has them for sale on his web site and it currently shows 26 in stock:
Here.

His shipping terms are here for outside the USA:
Here.

:bigsmile:

 

 max

daysoft
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Thank you for this information!

M4D M4X
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just write him a PM about the shipping costs ( if i remember 15 USD for a Flashlight – a few bucks for small parts)

he is nice and answers fast! Wink

PLEASE NOTE
i do not work in "reviews, deals and codes" for the time being
maybe M4D M4X will return one day, but until then:

THANK YOU FOR YEARS OF YOUR SUPPORT AND FRIENDLY CONTACTS!

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Ledsmoke wrote:

I would like to acommodate your request but alas I could not. I ruined the switch when trying to take the switch assembly out Sad

Then I bent the metal rim that the switch pcb sits on by using a screwdriver to attempt to press out the driver. I also cut the insulation on one of the wires for the switch. And heard an uncanny crunchy sound when i pressed hard with the screwdriver. So it is no worky for me now Sad

From what I can peek through the switch hole it is a common led mcpcb that rests on a thin ledge inside secured by at least 2 screws.

Good news: I cannot could not detect pwm when it still worked. The reflector seems flawless. The light is not glued anywhere.

Bad news: The led insulator gaskets have high rims that catch some of the light. I did not get to measure throw or lumen output before i ruined it. But a guesstimate (eye only) would put output at about 2300 – 2500 lumens and throw in the ~30 kCd range.

I hate that I did not get it apart! And that it broke in the first place!

Ah dang!

This might help you rebuild your switch
https://oshpark.com/shared_projects/mrk56N4w

Just need a pushbutton, solder on, then solder on the wires, well after you fix the metal rim

Slowly but surely you can get your SRK back together…just be gentle with it

Good luck good sir!

Ledsmoke
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It no biggie that the light is dead. I was not planning on keeping it original anyway. I just hate it when thing break when they are not MEANT to break LOL

But thank you for your concern Smile

~ Ledsmoke ~

Dutch humor:

[quote=djozz]

 I do not think that the BLF-community ben

DayLighter
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Ugh.. now I kind of regret it I didn’t buy one at the original price :Sp

The only way to do a great work is to love what you do.

mhemling33
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My first batch of 3 shold be at my house when I hey home from work! I grabbed a total of 9 from the US direct dx at $23… glad I pulled the trigger

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Got home from trying to catch a surf perch and mine was waiting in the mailbox. This is my first SRK so I’ve nothing to compare it to, but I’m very impressed with the build quality. For that price I was expecting junk. The cool white tint was not as bad as I feared and best of all… NO BLINKY!!!! I don’t know why, defective driver? Ha, that is one defect I wish happened more often. My only complaint is PWM noise on low. I hate driver screech…

Now I’ll enjoy the honeymoon phase while watching you experts lead the way in mods. dchomak’s thread looks very interesting!

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Siskiyou wrote:
..and best of all… NO BLINKY!!!! I don’t know why, defective driver? Ha, that is one defect I wish happened more often.

Push & hold switch button when the light is on, et voila, your blinkies will appear! :bigsmile:

dchomak
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I wanted to take out all the variables, and see how many amps the star would take hooked directly to 4 cells in parallel. Here is a picture of the star with the 6-XM-L2s.

What I did is remove the star from the light and disconnected it from the driver. I had already upgraded the leads to the star to 16 gauge wire to handle the expected increase in current. I made a 4 cell pack by soldering a copper buss to the postive and negative terminals of the cells. The cells are the purple Samsung 2800 from the laptop pull posted by Siskiyou. I charged them up to 4.18V and connected everything together.
The cell pack

The circuit.

The meter on the left is reading the voltage of the pack. The yellow meter in the middle is measuring the temperature of the star. I placed the thermocouple right up next to one of the LEDs’. The meter to the right is going to measure the current to the star. Because this is a direct drive hookup, I knew that the LEDs would be subject to thermal runaway and wanted to monitor that. It is hard to see the star as in this pic it is edgewise, but you can see the orange clamp that is holding the thermocouple. Here is a picture of that connection. The little silver blob to the right of the LED and under the yellow tab is the thermocouple.

Now a very short video (19 seconds) of direct drive to the star. No driver.


Notice the current goes up and the temperature increases. I only let the star go to 50C as it is not sinked and was rising fast. Anyway about 10A. I believe the limiting factor is the copper traces on the star, probably some resistance there. Here is an angle shot of those traces.

OK, now onto the driver. First thing I did when I opened up this light was replace the original MOSFET with a 70N02. The 70N02 is a low resistance FET. Let’s see how this driver does with that replacement, comparing it to no driver at all, direct drive. In otherwords, will this driver hinder the maximum performance possible? The light is back together, here is a pic of that setup. Weakest link here is the alligator clip connections. The clips are NOS “Mueller” a vintage good quality clip and the banana jacks are also NOS of good quality. The leads are 16 gauge.

Now another very short video of the test.


Once again, about 10A
I think what this shows is that with the simple, and cheap, mods of changing the FET to the 70N02 and using heavier lead wires, this light can become all that it can be. Don’t forget the spring mod. This time when I put it back together I added some thermal grease to the threads of the threaded sink.

In conclusion, We got a GREAT deal on this light! There can be some improvements to the output of this light with a couple of cheap and easy mods. I believe the traces on the star to be the ultimate limiting factor. Personally, I would (did) some simple and cheap mods to improve the output. Total cost: $23.10 (DX US) plus about $1 for the 70N02 and the new lead wires. Of course the spring mods are free.

If someone could figure out how to add copper wires on top of the traces to the LEDs on the star, we could cut down on the resistance there………..

Ouchyfoot
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Nice testing. I’ve burned out the traces on three lights that had all the emitters mounted on a single MCPCB. I’m not sure why. Heat?

UDO
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Good stuff dchomak, makes my wait a bit easyer, thanx! Can you please measure the Amps (original vs modded) in LOW mode?

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Very nice testing dchomak!

I have no SRK, nor plans to buy one, but I like seeing mods happening, very good information/pictures/video's Smile

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Could always try stripping the solder mask over the traces and run a bead of solder to thicken the traces, then kapton tape the snot out of the top of the star

Are they the typical hi>lo hidden strobe? How bad was the PWM on the lower modes?

Wow…very nice SRK, definitely needs good heatsinking, is the star bonded to the pill or just silicon grease?

I wish my SRK had a pill, all I have is a star that sits on the shelf that was machined out where the threads “should” be…
(once I get the driver up and running right, I might go ahead and do the fill of epoxy behind it to see if that helps..yeah makes it permanent…but this is my first “test” SRK, definitely won’t be my last)

dchomak
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Ouchyfoot wrote:
Nice testing. I’ve burned out the traces on three lights that had all the emitters mounted on a single MCPCB. I’m not sure why. Heat?

That is a scary thought, yes probably to much current and the trace did an imitation of a fuse. We have to be careful of that.

UDO wrote:
Good stuff dchomak, makes my wait a bit easyer, thanx! Can you please measure the Amps (original vs modded) in LOW mode?

Too late to get stock readings on this light, good thing I have another coming from DX China. If it is the same exact light I will get the readings. I want to know too!
WarHawk-AVG wrote:
Could always try stripping the solder mask over the traces and run a bead of solder to thicken the traces, then kapton tape the snot out of the top of the star

Are they the typical hi>lo hidden strobe? How bad was the PWM on the lower modes?

Wow…very nice SRK, definitely needs good heatsinking, is the star bonded to the pill or just silicon grease?

I wish my SRK had a pill, all I have is a star that sits on the shelf that was machined out where the threads “should” be…
(once I get the driver up and running right, I might go ahead and do the fill of epoxy behind it to see if that helps..yeah makes it permanent…but this is my first “test” SRK, definitely won’t be my last)


Spacing is pretty good. I can’t detect any PWM on low. I can hear it.
BTW, the older we get, the longer it takes for our eyes to adjust to changes in light levels. Maybe at my age I have “long persistence” eyes.

Maybe not scrape the whole trace, and not every one. Perhaps just the ones that are a bottle neck and perhaps just an area near the LED. I have some small gauge solid copper wire I can use (telephone wire). If need be that wire can be pounded flat first, insulation and all.
Or maybe connect to the little blob of solder coming out from each LED during the reflow process. That is risky though, may disturb the electrical and or the thermal connection.

RMM
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Dchomak, first of all I want to thank you for taking the time to post your test findings.  However, I disagree with your findings.  That 6x XM-L2 MCPCB will pull FAR more than 10A on four good cells.  In fact, I would be very surprised to see less than 20A on four good cells with heavy wire to the MCPCB.  Mine pulled 13.2A from a single 18650, with the stock skinny wires, over 10A from a single IMR 18350.  I am guessing that with 18AWG wire it will do 16A+ from a single 18650.   

Something in your test setup is adding a lot of resistance.

If it pops may end up scraping off the solder mask then adding solder to the traces on the MCPCB, if that doesn't work I will jumper the traces with wires.

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ryansoh3
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RMM, is that current draw measured with direct drive, stock driver, or with the MOSFET swap?

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dchomak
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RMM wrote:

Dchomak, first of all I want to thank you for taking the time to post your test findings.  However, I disagree with your findings.  That 6x XM-L2 MCPCB will pull FAR more than 10A on four good cells.  In fact, I would be very surprised to see less than 20A on four good cells with heavy wire to the MCPCB.  Mine pulled 13.2A from a single 18650, with the stock skinny wires, over 10A from a single IMR 18350.  I am guessing that with 18AWG wire it will do 16A+ from a single 18650.   

Something in your test setup is adding a lot of resistance.

If it pops may end up scraping off the solder mask then adding solder to the traces on the MCPCB, if that doesn’t work I will jumper the traces with wires.


I was very aware of how resistance in the circuit could impact the results, that is why I set it up so as to try and eliminate any possible points of resistance. As you know, it only takes one bad connection to cause a problem.

If that is the case, then it could be the alligator clips, banana jacks or even the cells themselves. Voltage at the pack dropped 0.2V after the 10A draw, so the internal resistance of the 4 pack would be .02 ohm or 20 milliohm. Times that by 4 and you get 80 milliohm per cell. Is that about to be expected for that cell?
I am pretty sure that XM-L2s will draw less than an XM-L with 18650s in direct drive. But you are right in expecting much more, so was I. That is why I immediately suspected the traces on the MCPCB.

The light is back together, I will try a test later with nothing but solder joints at ALL connections, even the meter. With the driver in place if the current goes up, then we know.

Actually, the current draw in the video is slightly higher WITH the driver than WITHOUT. That means something is amiss here. This is a case where if I am wrong about the MCPCB, it would be GOOD news. I would be glad to be wrong about that.

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ryansoh3 wrote:
RMM, is that current draw measured with direct drive, stock driver, or with the MOSFET swap?

Direct drive to the MCPCB with the stock skinny wires and a single cell.

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RMM
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dchomak wrote:
RMM wrote:

Dchomak, first of all I want to thank you for taking the time to post your test findings.  However, I disagree with your findings.  That 6x XM-L2 MCPCB will pull FAR more than 10A on four good cells.  In fact, I would be very surprised to see less than 20A on four good cells with heavy wire to the MCPCB.  Mine pulled 13.2A from a single 18650, with the stock skinny wires, over 10A from a single IMR 18350.  I am guessing that with 18AWG wire it will do 16A+ from a single 18650.   

Something in your test setup is adding a lot of resistance.

If it pops may end up scraping off the solder mask then adding solder to the traces on the MCPCB, if that doesn't work I will jumper the traces with wires.

I was very aware of how resistance in the circuit could impact the results, that is why I set it up so as to try and eliminate any possible points of resistance. As you know, it only takes one bad connection to cause a problem. If that is the case, then it could be the alligator clips, banana jacks or even the cells themselves. Voltage at the pack dropped 0.2V after the 10A draw, so the internal resistance of the 4 pack would be .02 ohm or 20 milliohm. Times that by 4 and you get 80 milliohm per cell. Is that about to be expected for that cell? I am pretty sure that XM-L2s will draw less than an XM-L with 18650s in direct drive. But you are right in expecting much more, so was I. That is why I immediately suspected the traces on the MCPCB. The light is back together, I will try a test later with nothing but solder joints at ALL connections, even the meter. With the driver in place if the current goes up, then we know. Actually, the current draw in the video is slightly higher WITH the driver than WITHOUT. That means something is amiss here. This is a case where if I am wrong about the MCPCB, it would be GOOD news. I would be glad to be wrong about that.

The 0.2v drop isn't much at all, actually.  Especially since those are 4.3v cells which unless I misunderstood you've only charged to 4.2v.  Even so, you should be seeing much higher number with that, especially with 16 AWG wires running to the MCPCB.  Even with those cells charged to 4.2v I would expect 18A+ out of of that setup.  

I have my test leads (a pair of 18 AWG on each plug, not sure if that's still as much as a single 12 AWG but it's enough) soldered directly to the jacks of my DMM (also a red HFT like yours.)  I noticed that at 6-7A my banana plugs would start to get pretty warm, so I got rid of them.  The only reason I don't try and measure more than one cell is that I am pretty sure it will pop my DMM, I ruined one once trying to measure 4 20Rs into 3 XM-L2s...I need to get a 30A ammeter for these big multi-cell parallel lights.

 

P.S. (edit) PLEASE don't take anything I've said as an insult.  I know that sometimes on the forum it may come across that way, I really don't mean it to.  We are all here to learn from each other and I appreciate you posting your experiences.

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dchomak
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RMM, I wasn’t insulted at all. Like I said, I am hoping I am wrong.
Just to show you how things go, I am revisiting this post because I just realized my math was wrong. The cells dropped 0.26V, not 0.20. So the internal resistance of the cells comes out to 104 miliohms.

You know it’s funny, that trick about soldering the test leads directly to inside of the meter that you mention, you learned from me. http://budgetlightforum.com/node/25355#comment-478312. I learned it from Pulsar13 . I NEVER GOT AROUND TO DOING IT. Shame on me.

If I were to blow a meter, so what? My wife just so happens to be picking up another FREE one at HF tonight on her way home from work.
Hows that for a loving wife. Smile

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dchomak wrote:
RMM, I wasn't insulted at all. Like I said, I am hoping I am wrong. Just to show you how things go, I am revisiting this post because I just realized my math was wrong. The cells dropped 0.26V, not 0.20. So the internal resistance of the cells comes out to 104 miliohms. You know it's funny, that trick about soldering the test leads directly to inside of the meter that you mention, you learned from *me*. http://budgetlightforum.com/node/25355#comment-478312. I learned it from *Pulsar13* . I NEVER GOT AROUND TO DOING IT. Shame on me. If I were to blow a meter, so what? My wife just so happens to be picking up another FREE one at HF tonight on her way home from work. Hows that for a loving wife. :)

Right on! Laughing (I also have a few extras laying around.)

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