ZY-T08 3up mod with XM-L2 - just another approach - It's finally done, beam shots are up!

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Old-Lumens
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ZY-T08 3up mod with XM-L2 - just another approach - It's finally done, beam shots are up!

June 8th. 2014

I still have a couple ZY T08 lights so I thought I would do another 3up using XM-L2 leds on Noctigons. Here you can see that light is dismantled and I have three aluminum reflectors with locating rings and three Noctigons. You can also see a chunk of aluminum rod stock and some copper.

zy3a

 

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zy3b

I want to have the aluminum rod stock as part of the heat sink and I want it to fit tight, so I milled out a little of the head, so the aluminum would be press fit into it. I used an end mill bit in my drill press to do it.

 

zy3c

Here is the center heat sink pressed into the head

zy3d

 

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zy3e

I used a hacksaw and files to remove the rim of the stock aluminum insert that held the led and driver. I want it to screw in tight and flush against the aluminum heat sink that I just pressed into the head.

 

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zy3f

Since these lights have a tapered head, I want to fill around the aluminum center and I thought I would use some copper shot and some solder, to make it more permanent than the JB weld was, from the last build.

 

zy3g

Once that is filled, I will put a copper discs over the top.

 

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zy3h

I used a screen to sort out the fine pieces of shot from the bigger ones.  All this copper shot is really just cut up wire, bought from am ebay seller.

 

zy3i

I put in a little of the big stuff in the bottom and then I put some solder in on top. This time I elected to use a large socket and wrap some solder around it and then just dropped the wrap in. I think it was better than feeding the solder in after heating.

zy3j

 

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zy3k

My lovely assistant took a photo of this, since I was using two torches at once. I just heated the outside of the head and the center aluminum heat sink, till the solder melted and let it flow down into and over the copper shot.

 

zy3l

Then I did another shallow layer of big stuff and repeated the process. Finally, I used the smaller shot for the top layer, hoping it would make a smoother surface for the placement of the copper discs on top.

zy3m

 

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zy3n

All ready to go and after placing the copper discs, I heated again and pressed them in while it cooled.

zy3o

 

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zy3p

Looks like it worked well. I didn't have any leakage from below, so the press fit must have been a good seal and the solder did not run out the bottom, as it normally does.

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That's it for now. I have to flow the leds on the Noctigons and then I will need to wait for drivers to come in. I expect to go for 4 amps per led.

 06/11/2014

I decided to order some boards from Oshpark, so I could use them as slaves. The ones that mattaus made up at my request, so I will be waiting most of the month for that to happen. Looks like it will take a lot longer than I thought.

I did manage to get the leds reflowed and they are in place, with the reflectors and glass in, so all I really have left is the drivers and the tail cap springs.

t081aa

t081ab

The leds are XM-L2 T6 3B, reflowed onto Noctigons and the wires are 22ga Teflon coated. Only reason for them is the Teflon coating is much thinner than silicone coating and I didn't want any bigger hole for the wires.

That's it till the boards come n...

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 06-21-14 Loooong time waiting for those Oshpark boards, but they came in today. Let's get this thing wrapped up.

3z1a

These boards are ones that Mattaus designed. I wanted boards that just held the 7135 chips, so I could use one for each led and not use up perfectly good Qlite drivers. These are the 16mm boards and they each hold 12 chips, so 12x380mA per led.

3z1b

Soldering these with a regular soldering gun is difficult, but not impossible. 36 chips, 3 boards.

 

3z1c

PWM from the master driver. I took off the chips and used them on one of the other boards.

 

3z1e

LED- wires soldered on.

 

3z1f

PWM and Ground wire soldered on.

 

3z1g

Can't show you the rest, because I didn't want to stop. I just used the original driver as a contact plate and used 18ga wires for + & -

 

3z1h

Last thing is adding copper braid to the springs.

 

 

3z1j

With 2 of the 20R batteries, I got a reading of a total of 11.65 amps, so that's not all that bad. It will be a very bright T08.

3z1k

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Beam shots in Post #1...

 

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Edited by: Old-Lumens on 06/21/2014 - 23:39
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3zb1

3zb2

3zb3

3zb7

A little fuzzy on that one. By the time it gets to the end of the pond, it's total flood and there isn't a bright spot any more. It's not a thrower, but I wasn't trying for that anyhow.

 

3zb4

LOW

 

3zb5

MEDIUM

 

3zb6

HIGH

 

That's all folks. It will be up for sale soon...

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texas shooter
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That Copper shot idea is brilliant, more heat capacity less weight. Looks like a good mod step for thin Aluminum heat sinks on those multiple LED supper lights.

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Did the heat it took to add all the shot not discolor the ano?

Looks like another awesome project.

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O-L,

That is amazing work!!

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Cereal_killer wrote:
Did the heat it took to add all the shot not discolor the ano? Looks like another awesome project.
No. It takes a higher temperature than the melting point of 60/40 solder, to discolor anodizing.

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great idea with the copper shavings as a filler to help absorb heat. Smile

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Cool trick.. have to try this someday Love Beer Beer

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Old-Lumens wrote:

Cereal_killer wrote:
Did the heat it took to add all the shot not discolor the ano? Looks like another awesome project.
No. It takes a higher temperature than the melting point of 60/40 solder, to discolor anodizing.

I noticed your using 60/40 solder, I have been using 63/37. I’m sure you have a good reason for using 60/40 and I’m curious to know what it is.
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Hi-Beam wrote:
Old-Lumens wrote:

Cereal_killer wrote:
Did the heat it took to add all the shot not discolor the ano? Looks like another awesome project.
No. It takes a higher temperature than the melting point of 60/40 solder, to discolor anodizing.

I noticed your using 60/40 solder, I have been using 63/37. I'm sure you have a good reason for using 60/40 and I'm curious to know what it is.
No good reason other than that's what I have always used. It started with soldering water pipes way back when and I just stuck with it, rosin core 60/40.

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wow that light is going to be even more front heavy! nice mod. cant wait to see the end result.

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Can you head east a few hundred miles, I need some help on my contest light.

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southland wrote:
Can you head east a few hundred miles, I need some help on my contest light.

He's booked out next week as an Australian beckons with help on his. Wink

 

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Great idea to fill in that void.  Gonna have some nice heft to it.

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Ooh, boy! This is going to be good.

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MRsDNF wrote:

southland wrote:
Can you head east a few hundred miles, I need some help on my contest light.

He's booked out next week as an Australian beckons with help on his. Wink

Do you have flight information? I'm Ready!!     First class right??Tongue Out

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A couple more photos in the OP

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Eagerly awaiting for more….. This is awesome!

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What reflectors are you using?

 

djozz quotes, "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".

                      "My man mousehole needs one too"

old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".

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MRsDNF wrote:

What reflectors are you using?

The reflectors were out of a solarstorm raging, but similar ones can be gotten from kaidomain.

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man every time i see your modding i learn many things, thank you for your effort to document your projects

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Posted several new photos in the OP. The light is finished, beam shots later tonight.

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Beam shots are in Post #1

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This is a really sweet mod!

Thanks for sharing OL.

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Pretty sweet looking result!

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Incredible work…

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nice work,looks beast!

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I've been thinking about trying that to improve heat transfer, and am glad to see you do well with it.

The low mode should be lower.

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great mod!

thanks for some ideas Wink

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