Triple XP-L Convoy S2 MTN Edition BLF17DD Review

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comfychair
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JB Weld will tolerate much much higher temps.

Legolas Jr.
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RMM wrote:

Serifus wrote:
How hard was it to get the xp-ls to fit in the optic?

Dedomed no work is necessary.  Domed doesn’t fit without modifying the optics, which are difficult to open up without destroying the clarity or uniformity of the lens opening.  


I thought I read somewhere that with dedomed xp-l’s you have to sand down the legs of the optic… Is that not the case?

“Strive to be a warrior and a scholar. Be forged in fire and tempered by knowledge. If not, you will either lack the courage to fight for your ideals or lack ideals worth fighting for.”

comfychair
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Legolas Jr. wrote:
RMM wrote:

Serifus wrote:
How hard was it to get the xp-ls to fit in the optic?

Dedomed no work is necessary.  Domed doesn't fit without modifying the optics, which are difficult to open up without destroying the clarity or uniformity of the lens opening.  

I thought I read somewhere that with dedomed xp-l's you have to sand down the legs of the optic... Is that not the case?

The substrate & die are the same thickness as the XPG2 the optics were made for, so no. I have tried adjusting the optics up and down from stock, and it either makes no change or makes it worse. Nothing to be gained there.

DB Custom
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There is a very very slight gap between the base of the optic and the substrate of the die, but to lower the optics would require a precise lowering of the shelf on the leg where the optics are supported. The leg positions the optics by being in the hole in the star, it’d be far easier to mess it up than to help it.

comfychair
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If you want to experiment anyway, the thing to do is to drill a countersink in the 3XP board, don't try messing with the TIR. They're too fragile and too hard to cut the step on the legs to exactly the same height. It's much easier to get them all the same by drilling the holes deeper (which is still not all that easy, you need some fairly precise machinery).

Legolas Jr.
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I think I’ll just stick with the way it is. Thanks for the replies!

“Strive to be a warrior and a scholar. Be forged in fire and tempered by knowledge. If not, you will either lack the courage to fight for your ideals or lack ideals worth fighting for.”

Turby3Pots
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If a lead desoldered:

1.) wouldn’t this only occur with the light on, and cause the light to go out? You would know, and it cannot happen off/in the pocket?

2.) would the driver make magic smoke and (hopefully) kill the connection before the “thermal event” we all worry about?

Thoughts?

I heat shrinked my connections for what it’s worth..

Also! I filled the pill full of high temp RTV on my last build. That should certainly protect against stray power wires grounding

comfychair
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The traces on the BLF drivers are pretty beefy, so unlikely to pop like a fuse like you would get with the skinny little traces on a 105C. The positive wire is the only issue, and only when the switch is on (if it's a clicky switch light - e-switch drivers have a complete circuit to the driver at all times).

DB Custom
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WD, if the positive lead came off then yes of course the light would go out, but the switch is still on and the power is still in that lead….if it touches ground then you’ve got a direct short that will at the very least tend to fry the driver if not causing much worse reactions. Bad things like that take precious little time to escalate.

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RMM wrote:

Glad it turned out well!  The original one I built was in an S3 and it got too hot for me to comfortably touch in about 30 seconds, pulling over 12A from a 20R.  The S2/S6 with the massive copper spacer obviously buys you a bit more time before it heat soaks, but it is still going to be getting hot in a hurry.  

Be careful!  It may be improbable, but I would hate to see what would happen if a lead desoldered itself and a 20R created a dead short inside the light…when I’ve shorted them usually a trace or something else has popped like a fuse, but if it didn’t it could be crazy.

Also, these little triples have so much light coming out the front that up close they burn things like a magnifying glass focusing the sun!  The light coming out the front will burn stuff, like paper, clothes, and skin.  

I will probably offer these at around 6A, but I won’t be building them with an FET driver.  What you build for yourself is your business, but I think these are just a little too much for most people to use safely.   

what would be the difference in lumens be with the 6a, and the one that you made for the op?

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blueb8llz wrote:
RMM wrote:

Glad it turned out well!  The original one I built was in an S3 and it got too hot for me to comfortably touch in about 30 seconds, pulling over 12A from a 20R.  The S2/S6 with the massive copper spacer obviously buys you a bit more time before it heat soaks, but it is still going to be getting hot in a hurry.  

Be careful!  It may be improbable, but I would hate to see what would happen if a lead desoldered itself and a 20R created a dead short inside the light...when I've shorted them usually a trace or something else has popped like a fuse, but if it didn't it could be crazy.

Also, these little triples have so much light coming out the front that up close they burn things like a magnifying glass focusing the sun!  The light coming out the front will burn stuff, like paper, clothes, and skin.  

I will probably offer these at around 6A, but I won't be building them with an FET driver.  What you build for yourself is your business, but I think these are just a little too much for most people to use safely.   

what would be the difference in lumens be with the 6a, and the one that you made for the op?

You can illustrate the difference easily just by swapping the hot 20R for a plain ol' low-drain ICR. Just that one change will give around 5.5-6A instead of... whatever the hell these things otherwise run at which I have no way to even measure accurately.

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A lot of times I put a lesser cell in one of my hot rodded lights to favor the switch and take a load off the emitter. If/when I want full blown it’s easy enough to stick one of the top cells back in. Likewise, if you’re going to loan out a light you can put a protected cell in it and limit it’s output while making it safer for a “noob” to use.

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I want this light any links?

Turby3Pots
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Roberrt777 wrote:
I want this light any links?

This is the host @ $9.15

This is the copper spacer you’ll need, $11

Carclo 10507 optics, $2.50

Triple XP-L mounted on Noctigon, dedomed, with gold plated jumpers $29.50

17mm BLF17DD driver, $14

Samsung INR 20R, $6.50

Shipping around $5.

Approx $80, plus labor to build unless you do it yourself.

chops728
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.Likewise, if you’re going to loan out a light you can put a protected cell in it and limit it’s output while making it safer for a “noob” to use.[/quote]

Loaners are the failed,practice and el cheapo lights

Sal415
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ive got the s2 and the spacer but its to long to fit ive built using the s6 what is the correct length for spacer for the triple help please

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Sal415 wrote:
ive got the s2 and the spacer but its to long to fit ive built using the s6 what is the correct length for spacer for the triple help please

How do I math???//

Stack the TIR onto the 3XP board and measure it. Compare that number to the height of the stock reflector + MCPCB + insulator, and the difference is the spacer thickness.

edit: You'll also have to account for the thickness of the stock glass lens or lack thereof, depending on if you're using one or not.

Sal415
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well cumchair just wondering did everyone have to cut down their spacers to fit because mine wont even fit diameter wise but thanks I was just hoping someone had a measurement so I could just get to it time is of the essence

Roberrt777
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wdkingery wrote:
Roberrt777 wrote:
I want this light any links?

This is the host @ $9.15

This is the copper spacer you’ll need, $11

Carclo 10507 optics, $2.50

Triple XP-L mounted on Noctigon, dedomed, with gold plated jumpers $29.50

17mm BLF17DD driver, $14

Samsung INR 20R, $6.50

Shipping around $5.

Approx $80, plus labor to build unless you do it yourself.

I am a noob to modding but I wonder if I could fit all this in a c8. I would need a different host and reflector, and I don’t know what else .

Edit: Never mind just realized I could just get a soup can light.

chops728
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Thoughts on using a lens with the 3 up optic—I always don’t—And I don’t know why I don’t—guess cause the first triple I bought didn’t have a lens

chops728
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Sal415 wrote:
ive got the s2 and the spacer but its to long to fit ive built using the s6 what is the correct length for spacer for the triple help please

I actually used a S6 pill with a Mtn Elec spacer put it in an S2 thought it was fine till I tried to put the S2 pill in the S6 slightly bigger wouldn’t thread in—the spacers are kind of snug through the threads but usually go through—have you tried just the spacer without the pill—I do know an S3 is much smaller and shorter—hope this helps

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I charged the cells for each light and took em both out a few minutes ago. The Sinner Cypreus Triple XP-L is the base image, at 2960 lumens. Mouse over for the Eagle Eye X6 MT-G2 at 3485 lumens. Took the pics back to back with the same settings. Canon G1X ISO1600, f/5.6, 1/2 sec shutter in Manual with manual focus and 2 second timer.

XP-L vs MT-G2

The Cypreus Triple XP-L is pulling over 9A from a single Efest Purple 18350. The X6 MT-G2 is pulling 7.3A from a pair of the same cells.

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wdkingery wrote:
yes this is the actual light that we have modified, for sale at fasttech. here’s a photo of it I stole from Bort:

here is Bort’s review of the stock/unmodified light.

this is what 3 XP-L’s under a TIR looks like:

chops728 wrote:
I guess you’re running a fet setup to achieve 10+

Wow first post!
Yes, I don’t quite know the whole background to the thing, but here at BLF we have our own custom FET-based driver, known as the BLF17DD. RMM at mtn sells them pre-built, and it’s what I’m using in this flashlight. DD stands for direct drive.

chops728 wrote:
you’re right at 10 + amps I call mine the SICKNESS

If you can get 3000+ lumens out of this light then i salute you (are they OTF lumens?)

The new XP-L in a 3up setup is seriously a new level of flashlight.

It’s like that time you got your first LED flashlight and were amazed by the output. (Mine was an overpriced Innova X5 with Snap-On written on it. I was so enthralled I bought another for my cousin cause someone just had to see this thing.)

The Journal of Alternative Facts TM

"It is critical that there is a credible academic source for the growing and important discipline of alternative facts. This field of study will just keep winning, and we knew that all the best people would want to be on board. There is a real risk in the world today that people might be getting their information about science from actual scientists"

 

 

 

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What Bort? Lol you didn’t say anything but the quote..

DBCstm wrote:
Cypreus Triple XP-L is pulling over 9A from a single Efest Purple 18350

What’s the run time on that cell?! Mah? I managed to kill 1/4 of my 2000mah just showing friends today.. Maybe 1.5 minutes runtime. Sucker kills a battery.. I cannot imagine an 18350!

Edit: 700mah! OMG dude you must only get 2 minutes runtime!

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Sal415 wrote:
well cumchair just wondering did everyone have to cut down their spacers to fit because mine wont even fit diameter wise but thanks I was just hoping someone had a measurement so I could just get to it time is of the essence

Excuse me? 'cumchair'? Are you 14?

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Sal415 wrote:
well cumchair just wondering did everyone have to cut down their spacers to fit because mine wont even fit diameter wise but thanks I was just hoping someone had a measurement so I could just get to it time is of the essence

Time is of the essence? Every host is slightly different. I’ve either cut spacers I bought from RMM to fit the hosts I had or made my own from random copper plumbing parts (or most recently, from copper bar stock). If you’re capable of building one of these on your own, you ought to be able to shave off some aluminum to make it fit properly. Using a hacksaw and a file is an awful lot less complicated than putting a light together.

“We are all worms, but I believe that I am a glow-worm.” – Winston Churchill

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wdkingery wrote:
What Bort? Lol you didn’t say anything but the quote..
DBCstm wrote:
Cypreus Triple XP-L is pulling over 9A from a single Efest Purple 18350

What’s the run time on that cell?! Mah? I managed to kill 1/4 of my 2000mah just showing friends today.. Maybe 1.5 minutes runtime. Sucker kills a battery.. I cannot imagine an 18350!

Edit: 700mah! OMG dude you must only get 2 minutes runtime!


I did, but i must have either typed it in the wrong spot or the forum software screwed up
Quote:
If you can get 3000+ lumens out of this light then i salute you (are they OTF lumens?)

The Journal of Alternative Facts TM

"It is critical that there is a credible academic source for the growing and important discipline of alternative facts. This field of study will just keep winning, and we knew that all the best people would want to be on board. There is a real risk in the world today that people might be getting their information about science from actual scientists"

 

 

 

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Sal415 wrote:
well cumchair just wondering did everyone have to cut down their spacers to fit because mine wont even fit diameter wise but thanks I was just hoping someone had a measurement so I could just get to it time is of the essence

And... you know, I gave you the only possible answer (for free, even - if that's not up to your obviously high standards I can send you my Paypal info), nobody but you has your parts sitting in front of them to measure.

And another thing... if you're not capable of measuring the new parts and the old parts and then subtracting the difference, how in hell were you planning to measure the spacer to find out where it needs to be cut? This is not a Snap-Tite plastic model kit, if you thought it was I'm afraid someone somewhere has led you horribly astray.

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I’m still trying to figure out what sort of emergency this fellow is in that would require quickly constructing a flashlight.

Quick! Vampires! We need at least 2,000 lumens or we’re doomed!

“We are all worms, but I believe that I am a glow-worm.” – Winston Churchill

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Bort wrote:
you can get 3000+ lumens out of this light then i salute you (are they OTF lumens?)

I am incapable of doing this measurement:

RMM wrote:

I just put a dedomed triple XP-L in an S3 host with an FET driver — it does over 3500 lumens OTF (according to my meter) with a 20R at almost 11A.  As you can imagine, that is an insane amount of heat in this small host.  I recommend using a Pana PF or BD with this setup, it tones things down a few amps but you still break 3000 lumens with way more runtime.

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