Amazon Deal Alerts & Discussion Thread

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whatsthepoint
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No,it's not an EC5 standard connector.The positive side looks standard but the negative side is probably proprietary with the small pin inside.

If you roll over the image on Amazon of the blue connector you'll get a better view of it.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0748D8KT6/ref=psdc_318336011_t2_B0742BBS3W

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Pete7874 wrote:
HONDARIDER wrote:
There isn’t a 1500a model but it looks like their gp1500 which is supposed to be a new release. Not sure if they are different.

It is the GP1500 model. 1500A is just a peak current rating.

By the way, does anyone know if the connector pictured below (in blue) is the industry standard EC-5 type? I wanted to pick up a cigarette lighter adapter for it. It looks like EC-5 to me, but some people said otherwise.

!{max-width:75%}https://m.media-amazon.com/images/S/aplus-media/sc/1b3b3f61-c9b3-44dc-b3...!


Isn’t that an output only connector for the jump cables? You modding it for input charging?
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Rat_Racer wrote:
Isn’t that an output only connector for the jump cables? You modding it for input charging?

I wanted to use it as an output to power devices with a cigarette lighter connector such as a tire inflator.

whatsthepoint wrote:

No,it’s not an EC5 standard connector.The positive side looks standard but the negative side is probably proprietary with the small pin inside.


OK, thanks. I was going to order this adapter (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019IFHLAE) but it sounds like it’s not going to work.

I’d need to get this one instead:
https://www.amazon.com/GOOLOO-Cigarette-Lighter-Adaptor-Compressor/dp/B0...

whatsthepoint
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The power OUT barrel connection on the GooLoo GP1500 is 15V/10A

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Pete7874
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Pete7874 wrote:
HONDARIDER wrote:
There isn’t a 1500a model but it looks like their gp1500 which is supposed to be a new release. Not sure if they are different.

It is the GP1500 model. 1500A is just a peak current rating.

BTW, I wonder how that “peak current” is measured. The 400A figure written on the unit is probably more realistic.

Should be enough to jump a typical 4-cyl or 6-cyl engine. Not sure about a big V8.

jigsaw
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Has anyone ever used this unit to try to start a vehicle with no battery, connecting directly to the battery cables?

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jigsaw wrote:
Has anyone ever used this unit to try to start a vehicle with no battery, connecting directly to the battery cables?

These devices generally work to augment a battery that just doesnt have enough umph to start by itself. In some cases, you even need to sit these on the battery for a while to transfer some charge so they can help. I would think you would need a pretty small engine (tractor/etc) to start it solo without a battery. While I can’t say from experience, I would think starting a car would be difficult to impossible solo. YMMV

Pete7874
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decypher wrote:
jigsaw wrote:
Has anyone ever used this unit to try to start a vehicle with no battery, connecting directly to the battery cables?

These devices generally work to augment a battery that just doesnt have enough umph to start by itself. In some cases, you even need to sit these on the battery for a while to transfer some charge so they can help. I would think you would need a pretty small engine (tractor/etc) to start it solo without a battery. While I can’t say from experience, I would think starting a car would be difficult to impossible solo. YMMV


Agreed.

Owner manual also has a warning: “Do Not use in place of a vehicle battery.”

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I figured as much, I only asked for comparison. At work we use these -

https://www.amazon.com/Booster-ES5000-1500-Peak-Starter/dp/B000JFHNQA/re...

They will start a V8 engine without a battery with no problem. Not even in the same league.

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Plus, you need a Pb-acid battery to essentially regulate the system voltage that the car sees. A different chemistry battery can have too high a voltage andd fry the electronics, and running off the alternator alone is generally a Bad Idea.

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jigsaw
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Lightbringer wrote:
Plus, you need a Pb-acid battery to essentially regulate the system voltage that the car sees. A different chemistry battery can have too high a voltage andd fry the electronics, and running off the alternator alone is generally a Bad Idea.

Exactly. The one I linked has a SLA high-drain battery. It’s a whole lot heavier that the lithium units. Like everything, it all depends on how you plan to use it.

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whatsthepoint wrote:

Out of the box the GooLoo showed 2 out of 4 blue dots


The USB C port is the only port for charging the power bank.It’s labeled IN/OUT


The 2 USB A ports are labeled OUT


The BLUE USB A port is for fast charging


I connected the GooLoo with the supplied adapter and the USB A to C cable.


The included adapter is rated at 2000mA output but charged at  4.65V/2.47A


After the full charge I used the power bank feature to charge my Google Pixel 3XL using the C to C cable.


Worked well.Took about 20 minutes to go from 74% to 100%.I didn’t time it.


 


 


FYI, I did some output testing of its USB ports. Here’s what I got:

USB-C: 3A @ 4.96V
USB-A (blue): 3A @ 4.65V; 2A @ 8.8V; 1.5A @ 11.85V
USB-A (white): 2.1A @ 4.75V

Maybe not the greatest, but will certainly work in emergency.

What I’d really like to know is if this GooLoo could jump start the 6.4 V8 engine in my car, but short of severely discharging the battery in the car (which I don’t want to do), I don’t know how I could test that.

When the car’s battery died last year (I think it had a bad cell), I could not get the car jump started by hooking up jumper cables to my other car. Finally a guy with a flatbed showed up, and he had a jump starter similar to that Clore one linked above. It started the engine right up.

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You could disconnect both battery cable, and connect jumper starter directly to car, think you may have to push boost button if it has one, some starters wont work unless there is some power in the flattened battery.

Pete7874
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fluke wrote:

You could disconnect both battery cable, and connect jumper starter directly to car,


Yeah, I don’t think this Gooloo was designed for it. Owner manual specifically warns against doing this.
whatsthepoint
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This Jump Starter fits my needs,that's why I bought it with the Amazon deal.

I've often stopped to look at the ones in Costco but never put one in my cart.

Both my SUV and 2nd car are 4 cylinder and in my location it doesn't drop below freezing more that a few days during the winter.

The battery in my 2014 Cruze is 5 years old so it's a good thing to have until I pop for a new battery.

During storms there's been power outages so it's possible that in such events that I might use it to charge devices if needed.

If I owned different vehicles my choice would have been different and there was a good deal available.

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Pete7874
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Eneloop AA 8-pack for $17.14.

Eneloop AA 16-pack for $31.44.

 

https://www.amazon.com/Panasonic-BK-3MCCA8BA-eneloop-Pre-Charged-Recharg...

moderator007
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Pete7874 wrote:
Eneloop AA 8-pack for $17.14.

Eneloop AA 16-pack for $31.44.

https://www.amazon.com/Panasonic-BK-3MCCA8BA-eneloop-Pre-Charged-Recharg...


8-pack says $18.04 for me.
That’s a good deal on the 16-pack.
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Looks like the price just went up. Shucks!

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https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07Y538XQV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdo_t1_nPMjEb58VZDFR A1S Wowtac $20.99 NW+CW.
A2S headlight $23.99 listed by ThruNite Direct.

You can't compare the big flashlight in the sky to the little flashlight in your hand.

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Wowtac A5 Flashlight in both Natural White and Cool White available with 20% off coupon gets you a 26650 Flashlight that hold 1800 lumens for 90 minutes for $39.96 ( at least according to ZeroAir reviews).

https://www.amazon.com/WOWTAC-Rechargeable-Flashlight-Waterproof-Emergen...

I couldn’t resist Thumbs Up

Jeff

whatsthepoint
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moderator007 wrote:
Pete7874 wrote:
Eneloop AA 8-pack for $17.14. Eneloop AA 16-pack for $31.44. https://www.amazon.com/Panasonic-BK-3MCCA8BA-eneloop-Pre-Charged-Recharg... 8-pack says $18.04 for me. That'sa good deal on the 16-pack.

 

I just looked on Amazon and the AA 16 pack is $31.44,the 8 pack is $17.14 and the 4 pack is $10.45

An 8 pack of Eneloop AAA is $16.99.

 

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Lightbringer
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Anyone ever compare eneloops vs Amazon Basics?

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Sudsy
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Lightbringer wrote:
Anyone ever compare eneloops vs Amazon Basics?

This may help..

http://budgetlightforum.com/node/65224

contactcr
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Lightbringer wrote:
Anyone ever compare eneloops vs Amazon Basics?

I think the most recent summary is this: AmazonBasics appears to have changed their supplier over the years (some now made in China) so it’s hit or miss while Eneloop is consistently good (albeit expensive). YMMV

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Hmm, interesting… and interesting.

Was toying with the idea, being that I have AAs but rarely use them, but “needed” some AAAs.

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whatsthepoint
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The only lights I have that use AAA are a doxen the $1.00 ones from Walmart with 9 LEDs and 2 obtained in Korea with 27 LEDS that all use 3 x AAA..In all these cheapies I put Kirkland alkalines from Costco(64 pack).

My BT mice and a couple of remotes employ AAA that also get fed alkalines.

I have 7 lights that use AA and 3 of those take 4 each.They get fed Envelope Pro,Sanyo XX or white Eneplops

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chops728
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I have some Amazon Basics (black w/green stripe around + end) in both AA and AAA —- they compare pretty close to Eneloops as far as light output —- the Eneloops edging them out with a AA Tool 2.0 — capacity is spot on with rating when they’re new — but unlike the Eneloops hold capacity for several years the Basics drop off slightly after a couple years ( not nearly as bad as Eifest though)

I’ve bought these EBL AAA on several occasions with good results — capacity is slightly under their stated capacity ( 1000-1100) — they’re cheap though

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DNPT1A4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_...
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The problem with anything NOT standard Eneloop is they degrade rapidly by comparison. Not standard Eneloop = far less recharge cycles, storage capacity takes a steeper dive as they accumulate charge cycles and they certainly wont continue to cycle for a decade of use. Ive never spent more than $2 per Eneloop and they go on sale all the time. Why anyone would even look at other cells seems pointless. Ive probably been through 20+ brands of nimh AAA and AA cells. The only ones I have not discarded are Eneloop/Duraloops. My oldest AA nimh cells are Eneloops purchased in 1990, and are still being cycled today.

As I started accumulating cells, I invested in a pair of Powerex MH-C9000 chargers to assure proper charging/termination/health of the cells. Even with those advanced chargers, all cells not Eneloop gave up before 5 years in the rotation with all my other nimh cells (approx 150 cells total).

Stop wasting money to fill the landfill. Standard Eneloops all the way. Thumbs Up

Having said that, Im glad to hear some people have weened themselves off alkaline.

chops728
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Powerex MH-C9000—Great charger ——— I guess that’s why people buy all different levels of everything —need—uses —etc
I’m a retired contractor but still won’t put most of the garbage tools in my hands most people use —- to each his own — but I do understand if you barely use something why buy the best —- If you have lots of devices that may only get recharged once a twice a year— why not use a lesser cell —Use the Eneloops where they are most needed

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jcturbot wrote:
Wowtac A5 Flashlight in both Natural White and Cool White available with 20% off coupon gets you a 26650 Flashlight that hold 1800 lumens for 90 minutes for $39.96 ( at least according to ZeroAir reviews).

https://www.amazon.com/WOWTAC-Rechargeable-Flashlight-Waterproof-Emergen...

I couldn’t resist Thumbs Up

Jeff

From the ZeroAir review. Left is the Wowtac. Sick

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