Mini-T6

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CEHepp
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Mini-T6

http://www.cnqualitygoods.com/goods.php?id=1204

Check this thing out. I was checking the new releases on cnqualitygoods.com and happened to notice that it was available in warm white.

Programmable to 3 or 5 mode operation! HAIII (claimed?)

 

Does anyone have one of these? Looks like a good replacement for my YEZL Z1X.

Zebralight S6330 – Zebralight SC600w – Zebralight SC52 – Zebralight SC51w – EagleTac D25A Ti 219 – 4Sevens Quark Turbo AA2 219 – FourSevens Preon PenLight -

agenthex
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I was just going to post about this, too. Seems like a good portable light for reasonable price.

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Ford Prefect
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I like it! Nice smooth understated lines. No ridiculous Klingon assault crown/weeny roaster. Would be nice to have a 3amp turbo mode to take advantage of the XM-L's higher power (even if only in short bursts)
2100
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It is a neutral white 4000-4200k, not WW.

VFMaddict
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agenthex wrote:

I was just going to post about this, too. Seems like a good portable light for reasonable price.

I can't agree on either the portability of the light or the price.   Its longer than a UF 501/502B and almost 50% more expensive than one of those with a handpicked drop-in inside it.   I could add also that it is obviously less flexible than a P60 host.

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CEHepp
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2100 wrote:

It is a neutral white 4000-4200k, not WW.

 

Even better! I love neutral white lights! I really wish these manufacturers would start putting pocket clips on these lights, that's all they need to be perfect.

Zebralight S6330 – Zebralight SC600w – Zebralight SC52 – Zebralight SC51w – EagleTac D25A Ti 219 – 4Sevens Quark Turbo AA2 219 – FourSevens Preon PenLight -

agenthex
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HA is like SF L2p which is $25 by itself and claimed IPX8, not 501/502 quality, far better heatsinking than any drop-in ($16 for 3 mode, not even NW). It's same length as 502, but no enlarged head size.

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candle lamp
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I have the light(SW1, T6 4C Warm tint).

You can see the black plastic insulation ring. It should have covered the solderings of the positive & negative
to prevent from electirc short. The OP reflector is just on the LED and the inner o-ring is bulging out from
the lens when tightening the head. Therefore LED is not centered to the reflector.

Head Part

candle lamp
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Tailcap Part

 

 

agenthex
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Kind of an odd two layer switch. Just put some tape around the reflector to center it.

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CEHepp
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They could have saved so much length without the double switch boots.

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candle lamp
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The metal tailcap switch is too tight to push and there is rubber bootcap inside.
Because of that method, the body length is too long and uncomfortable to use the switch.
I don't know why that kind of switching method is used.

The anodizing on the body is good and beam tint is quite good. it's not WW but NW.

candle lamp
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agenthex wrote:

Kind of an odd two layer switch. Just put some tape around the reflector to center it.

I need to cut the bottom of the reflector a little because it press the rectangular part of the LED.

weiser
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I've had it bookmarked for a while but was curious how hard it's driven and the Shadow lights aren't heavily tested yet. Although the TC6 seems to get praise for build quality. They just aren't driven that hard. 

CEHepp
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weiser701 wrote:

I've had it bookmarked for a while but was curious how hard it's driven and the Shadow lights aren't heavily tested yet. Although the TC6 seems to get praise for build quality. They just aren't driven that hard. 

 

From the site: LD21 -- Current Regulation--support 2xCR123A

1.4A on Hi>700mA on Mid>100mA on Lo

 

I wonder if that "current regulation" means it actually uses a linear driver? 1.4A on high seems like plenty for a small light. My Z1X gets way too hot way too fast at 2.5A on high.

Zebralight S6330 – Zebralight SC600w – Zebralight SC52 – Zebralight SC51w – EagleTac D25A Ti 219 – 4Sevens Quark Turbo AA2 219 – FourSevens Preon PenLight -

CEHepp
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candle lamp wrote:

I have the light(SW1, T6 4C Warm tint).

 

Do you notice any PWM on any of the modes? That would be a deal breaker for me.

Zebralight S6330 – Zebralight SC600w – Zebralight SC52 – Zebralight SC51w – EagleTac D25A Ti 219 – 4Sevens Quark Turbo AA2 219 – FourSevens Preon PenLight -

trooplewis
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For $6 more you can have an S-mini, which to me, being one inch shorter and of known quality, is a no-brainer.

(use CPFUSER code at SB to get a 6% discount from the $43 price) Plus if you are in the US, it will get to your door in about 4 days.

 

oops, but yeah, the S-Mini is not available in a WW or even a neutral white I think.

Rats, finally sold my 2010 509hp Mustang...now I can buy more lights!

Sold the red one too! Now guess what I drive, doing my penance for 500 hp commuters...

http://dreammustang.com/

http://i884.photobucket.com/albums/ac47/Ha

CEHepp
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trooplewis wrote:

For $6 more you can have an S-mini, which to me, being one inch shorter and of known quality, is a no-brainer.

(use CPFUSER code at SB to get a 6% discount from the $43 price)

 

No strobe? No neutral white? It does appear to be better quality. 

Zebralight S6330 – Zebralight SC600w – Zebralight SC52 – Zebralight SC51w – EagleTac D25A Ti 219 – 4Sevens Quark Turbo AA2 219 – FourSevens Preon PenLight -

weiser
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KLowD9x wrote:

weiser701 wrote:

I've had it bookmarked for a while but was curious how hard it's driven and the Shadow lights aren't heavily tested yet. Although the TC6 seems to get praise for build quality. They just aren't driven that hard. 

 

From the site: LD21 -- Current Regulation--support 2xCR123A

1.4A on Hi>700mA on Mid>100mA on Lo

 

I wonder if that "current regulation" means it actually uses a linear driver? 1.4A on high seems like plenty for a small light. My Z1X gets way too hot way too fast at 2.5A on high.

 

I know.. I guess I'm just looking for a pocket rocket that blasts on high just for short bursts. For my uses I can actually take advantage of over driven emitters without just being a show off light. But then I just barely know what I'm talking about. I'm still getting my feet wet Tongue out

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weiser701 wrote:

KLowD9x wrote:

weiser701 wrote:

I've had it bookmarked for a while but was curious how hard it's driven and the Shadow lights aren't heavily tested yet. Although the TC6 seems to get praise for build quality. They just aren't driven that hard. 

 

From the site: LD21 -- Current Regulation--support 2xCR123A

1.4A on Hi>700mA on Mid>100mA on Lo

 

I wonder if that "current regulation" means it actually uses a linear driver? 1.4A on high seems like plenty for a small light. My Z1X gets way too hot way too fast at 2.5A on high.

 

I know.. I guess I'm just looking for a pocket rocket that blasts on high just for short bursts. For my uses I can actually take advantage of over driven emitters without just being a show off light. But then I just barely know what I'm talking about. I'm still getting my feet wet Tongue out

 

The YEZL Z1X from cnqualitygoods.com will pull almost 3.5amps at the tail cap with an IMR cell. It's freaking insane!

Zebralight S6330 – Zebralight SC600w – Zebralight SC52 – Zebralight SC51w – EagleTac D25A Ti 219 – 4Sevens Quark Turbo AA2 219 – FourSevens Preon PenLight -

weiser
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KLowD9x wrote:

The YEZL Z1X from cnqualitygoods.com will pull almost 3.5amps at the tail cap with an IMR cell. It's freaking insane!

 

Wow.. I never realized it was driven that hard! It's actually been a light I've considered for a while now but I always end up turning down the Yezl products because many of them don't seem to get favorable reviews for build quality. 

 

But yeah, that's about what I'm looking for in pretty much any XM-L. For me it might as well be driven to its max and 3.5a is pretty close to where it starts leveling off, based on reports compiled by Match. It seems 2.8a would be the most efficient max since that's where it begins requiring more amps per lumen. 

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weiser701 wrote:

KLowD9x wrote:

The YEZL Z1X from cnqualitygoods.com will pull almost 3.5amps at the tail cap with an IMR cell. It's freaking insane!

 

Wow.. I never realized it was driven that hard! It's actually been a light I've considered for a while now but I always end up turning down the Yezl products because many of them don't seem to get favorable reviews for build quality. 

 

But yeah, that's about what I'm looking for in pretty much any XM-L. For me it might as well be driven to its max and 3.5a is pretty close to where it starts leveling off, based on reports compiled by Match. It seems 2.8a would be the most efficient max since that's where it begins requiring more amps per lumen. 

 

Using a standard TF Flame, I seem to get right at 2.8-2.9amps. It's quite impressive....ly hot.

Zebralight S6330 – Zebralight SC600w – Zebralight SC52 – Zebralight SC51w – EagleTac D25A Ti 219 – 4Sevens Quark Turbo AA2 219 – FourSevens Preon PenLight -

candle lamp
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KLowD9x wrote:

candle lamp wrote:

I have the light(SW1, T6 4C Warm tint).

 

Do you notice any PWM on any of the modes? That would be a deal breaker for me.

 

No, there is no flickering on any mode, on even low mode.

I notice that there is no buzzing sound on the low & med. level when holding the light
close to my ear to hear it.


2100
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weiser701 wrote:

But yeah, that's about what I'm looking for in pretty much any XM-L. For me it might as well be driven to its max and 3.5a is pretty close to where it starts leveling off, based on reports compiled by Match. It seems 2.8a would be the most efficient max since that's where it begins requiring more amps per lumen. 

OT :

I was exactly in a sort of detailed discussion with Match and his scientific testing does indicate levelling off at 3A, some mods done by others do indicate otherwise by both photos as well as lux meters.   Lets not take those crazy mods with a full copper block and sleeve down the whole tube, this is a simple enough one : http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?312241-Loongsun-LX-9012-XM-L-Monster-thrower-(now-with-lux-readings)   This is a 2-cell Made in China production light, so the voltage is 8 volts or so, there still would be voltage drop in the DMM affecting accuracy, but i mean lets take it as it is, relatively speaking for both lux as well current. The lux meter does not even have to be precise, just need to show the difference.

I had played with dry-ice cooling at a time just for fun (I probably got close to 4000 emitter lumens from 3 XM-L even with a production light and just normal thermal adhesive on MBPCB), but well of course that does not really fit into the picture in reality.  But yes, my testing shows that with enough cooling and if possibile elimination of the MBPCB, more juice can be milked past 3A and the levelling off just pushed upwards the current graph.

Some tech reading  : http://www.molalla.net/members/leeper/mcpcb1.htm

This is how cmacclel/saabluster/ma_sha does those crazy mods and get those crazy figures.