H17F - programmable driver with full thermal regulation

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LightRider
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PPDB22 wrote:
LSX wrote:
Correct me if I’m wrong but I didn’t think you could zener mod this driver for use with 6V emitters???

Idk. I would like to know…

Has anyone tried this?

will34
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I don’t think there aren’t any traces for zener components…

LightRider
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will34 wrote:
I don’t think there aren’t any traces for zener components…

From a hardware standpoint, couldn’t you add a zener to dump the voltage to the mcu and swap the protection diode with a resistor? Like a qlite driver… I might mess with the complicated firmware though?
viperbart
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Do it old school and cut some traces and air wire it.

Just kidding.

LightRider
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viperbart wrote:
Do it old school and cut some traces and air wire it.

Just kidding.


Hey… I’m not afraid! Davie
RMM
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You could zener mod it, but you'll burn up the 7135 chips, especially the single channel 7135 chip, in a hurry.  Not recommended.  The duty cycle would have to be greatly reduced on the single 7135 chip, which would require a firmware change.  

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LightRider
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RMM wrote:

You could zener mod it, but you’ll burn up the 7135 chips, especially the single channel 7135 chip, in a hurry.  Not recommended.  The duty cycle would have to be greatly reduced on the single 7135 chip, which would require a firmware change.  

Ya. That’s what I was afraid of… Thanks for the information!

Eraursls1984
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Is there any chance some form of this driver could be made as a 10 mm driver in the future?

Drift Monkey
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Can anyone tell me what approximate amps I should expect this driver to pull in FET/DD while powering a single XP-L HI?

I’m trying to decide if 30Qs would be worth getting over my current GAs.

RMM
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Drift Monkey wrote:
Can anyone tell me what approximate amps I should expect this driver to pull in FET/DD while powering a single XP-L HI? I'm trying to decide if 30Qs would be worth getting over my current GAs.

I depends largely on the total resistance of your circuit, but with a good bypassed tailcap spring and GA I would expect around 5A.  You might get 0.5A-1A more from a 30Q.

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Drift Monkey
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RMM wrote:

Drift Monkey wrote:
Can anyone tell me what approximate amps I should expect this driver to pull in FET/DD while powering a single XP-L HI? I’m trying to decide if 30Qs would be worth getting over my current GAs.

I depends largely on the total resistance of your circuit, but with a good bypassed tailcap spring and GA I would expect around 5A.  You might get 0.5A-1A more from a 30Q.


Yeah, the spring would be bypassed. Hmmm…that doesn’t seem like it would be a huge visible impact. That being said, 30Qs are cheap enough to pick up down the line and see for myself.

Thanks for the input RMM!

mattlward
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Found out something interesting last night! This driver works with the PD68 2 LED lighted tailcap!!! Stock driver and basic tailcap.

I consider this a win and may make choking the price of a few more of the down easier!

Matt

EDC rotation:
FW1A, LH351D 4000k (second favorite)
FW3A, LH351D 3500k
FW3A, SST20 FD2 4000k
FW3A, Nichia 4000k sw40 r9080 (favorite light!)
FW3A, Cree XP-L Hi 5A3
Emisar D4V2, SST20 4000k
S2+, XM-L2 T6 4C

Stereodude
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So how does the thermal regulation work? It steps down a full level (of the 24 programmable modes)? Or it just dynamically decreases the PWM to maintain their thermal target but can do it in a far more granular fashion than the programmable levels?

mattlward
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Not sure how it works, very granular though. The only change I would like to see is mode reversal with a longer press.

EDC rotation:
FW1A, LH351D 4000k (second favorite)
FW3A, LH351D 3500k
FW3A, SST20 FD2 4000k
FW3A, Nichia 4000k sw40 r9080 (favorite light!)
FW3A, Cree XP-L Hi 5A3
Emisar D4V2, SST20 4000k
S2+, XM-L2 T6 4C

Pavlo
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Is there any plans to develop the same driver without the FET/DD option?
The PID is the main feature that makes it stand out from most drivers but this is not available in a standard linear driver.

Ultimately, would this driver be safe to use on a single Nichia 219C R9050 in a 1 × 18650 build. I am reading that the Nichia 219C should not be run on DD as it can easily overheat.

Thanks

Terry White
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Grrrr, I  just got up from my night shift nap. This one i actually knew.

We use to goof around with it in the old IRC cjat rooms using different open source chat clients.

Oh well... early bird gets the worm.

 

Congrats.

 

 

When can I  purchase? 

Terry White

Skype terrywhite1@live.com

Terry White
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5LMAO see how asleep I still am. This was long done. Lol

Terry White

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RMM
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Pavlo wrote:
Is there any plans to develop the same driver without the FET/DD option? The PID is the main feature that makes it stand out from most drivers but this is not available in a standard linear driver. Ultimately, would this driver be safe to use on a single Nichia 219C R9050 in a 1 x 18650 build. I am reading that the Nichia 219C should not be run on DD as it can easily overheat. Thanks

I wouldn't use it on a single 219C with a good high drain battery battery, even though it doesn't have as low of resistance as a normal FET driver so you can get away with a bit more.  Since the modes are fully programmable, you can turn down the highest mode to whatever you want, or disable the FET entirely (I would still keep it on, but just turn it down one mode level from the top).  

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Terry White
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Any plans for maybe a 20mm?

Terry White

Skype terrywhite1@live.com

RMM
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Terry White wrote:

Any plans for maybe a 20mm?

That's completely up to DrJones.  I wouldn't mind seeing a few different diameter options.

Mountain Electronics : batteries, Noctigon, and much more! What's new? 

Terry White
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Yeah me too.

Terry White

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SG3
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How well would this driver work with an XHP50/70 or would it work at all?

"Yes, I'm a custom knife maker who is afraid of the dark..."

-Me

tuelleric
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EasyB wrote:
The double-tap feature is one thing I really like about the FW. How quick do the taps need to be to access this mode? Is it easy to accidentally access this mode when switching modes quickly?

Was this question answered? I normaly prefer a L-M-H setup and want to access the higher modes quickly bydouble or triple tapping from off.

How do you programm the double-tap mode? Can you disable it? I do not find any information in the description…

RMM wrote:
I wouldn’t use it on a single 219C with a good high drain battery battery, even though it doesn’t have as low of resistance as a normal FET driver so you can get away with a bit more.  Since the modes are fully programmable, you can turn down the highest mode to whatever you want, or disable the FET entirely (I would still keep it on, but just turn it down one mode level from the top).

When programming the brightness it cycles through the modes, right? So you can accidently go into direct drive, I think. What happens to the LED if the battery allows very high amperages?

Thanks for your help!

Gunga
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It’s a medium fast double tap. Yes. You can go into by accident when changing modes fast.

When programming it ramps up from minimum so you can avoid direct drive. The problem is that I think double tap and maybe the last mode are at max. I wish Dr Jones would limit the stock max modes. I was programming with a single 219B and (silly me) a high current cell. Nothing blew up but the LED would go blue after a few seconds.

tuelleric
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Thanks, Gunga!
So I have to reconsider, whether the H17F is right for me. Would be great, if you could disable the double-tap mode in the config menu.

Gunga
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After programming it’s fine (no LED blue) but double tap mode can be a bit annoying. You get used to it though.

KawiBoy1428
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I love the double tap Turbo feature, Normal people can use the light and never enter or know (Turbo) is there Wink , it is only the Professional Flashlight experts that get annoyed when fast clicking! Big Smile Or forget to get out of Turbo when shutting it off, next turn on BAM! Facepalm

KB1428 “Live Life WOT

EasyB
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Double tap can not be disabled, but you can set it to any brightness level you want. And yes, it is fairly easy to accidentally access it.

mattlward
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I use the double tap to always go to moonlight mode. I try to have ML on every light that I build and it is nice not to have to go past a mode that makes so little light you cannot tell it is on, but at night I can double tap a know that it will not blind me the next time I turn it on!

I would like to echo the hope for the H17f in other sizes as well. I would love to see it in 20mm.

EDC rotation:
FW1A, LH351D 4000k (second favorite)
FW3A, LH351D 3500k
FW3A, SST20 FD2 4000k
FW3A, Nichia 4000k sw40 r9080 (favorite light!)
FW3A, Cree XP-L Hi 5A3
Emisar D4V2, SST20 4000k
S2+, XM-L2 T6 4C

Firelight2
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I LOVE the double-tap feature on this driver.

It’s what makes this my absolute favorite clicky switch driver. The shortcut to turbo works really well.

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