PD68 Review: Thorfire S70 - XHP70 Monster

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bella-headlight
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Also just did a tail cap reading with a pair of freshly charged Thorfire 5000 mah INR“s & got 4.94A.

Ian

bella-headlight
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And just did a tail cap reading with 18650 Efest 3100 mah IMR“s & got 5.01A.

Ian

Gerrit
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Tail cap reading with a pair BASEN 26650 4500 mah IMR , got 5,4 A

M4D M4X
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stock driver?

PLEASE NOTE
i do not work in "reviews, deals and codes" for the time being
maybe M4D M4X will return one day, but until then:

THANK YOU FOR YEARS OF YOUR SUPPORT AND FRIENDLY CONTACTS!

bella-headlight
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Mine is a stock driver.
Surprised that the Basen“s give a higher tail cap reading than my Keeppowers although DMM accuracy will probably be different between myself & Gerrit.
FWIW I am using an Amprobe AM510 with stock leads.

Ian

Gerrit
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Mine is also a stock driver.

I do my measurements with a Brymen 876s and use 13 AWG wire

freeme
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Keeppower IMR (black)? Those are pretty average cell imo.

bella-headlight wrote:
Mine is a stock driver.
Surprised that the Basen“s give a higher tail cap reading than my Keeppowers although DMM accuracy will probably be different between myself & Gerrit.
FWIW I am using an Amprobe AM510 with stock leads.

1thedeals.comyoutubeAstroluxNealsgadgetsolight

thijsco19
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Just killed the clicky switch while trying to bypass the spring… Facepalm
But have already ordered a new one, including some 0.2 ohm sense resistors to mod the driver.

everydaysurvivalgear
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thijsco19 wrote:
Just killed the clicky switch while trying to bypass the spring… Facepalm But have already ordered a new one, including some 0.2 ohm sense resistors to mod the driver.

How what did you do?

thijsco19
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The switch was still mounted on the PCB while I was soldering on the spring side, suddenly I saw some black stuf flowing through the via’s.
Yes, that was the switch that was melting…. LOL

Funny thing is, this wasn’t the first time it happend. Facepalm

unknown00101
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To prevent that I always hold the switch by the sides while I solder in the wire. When it approaches too hot to hold it’s time to let it cool down. Silly

bella-headlight
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freeme wrote:
Keeppower IMR (black)? Those are pretty average cell imo.
bella-headlight wrote:
Mine is a stock driver. Surprised that the Basen“s give a higher tail cap reading than my Keeppowers although DMM accuracy will probably be different between myself & Gerrit. FWIW I am using an Amprobe AM510 with stock leads.

According to HKJ“s review they are a very good performing cell http://lygte-info.dk/review/batteries2012/Keeppower%20IMR26650%205200mAh%20(Black)%202015%20UK.html

Also usually no 2 lights will give exactly the same readings even if using the same cells & test equipment.
Have a look at the graphs on post 99 here http://budgetlightforum.com/node/44802?page=3
A difference in accuracy of the DMM of only 0.3% would give the Keeppowers the same tail cap reading as the Basen.

Ian

unknown00101
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bella-headlight wrote:
freeme wrote:
Keeppower IMR (black)? Those are pretty average cell imo.
bella-headlight wrote:
Mine is a stock driver. Surprised that the Basen“s give a higher tail cap reading than my Keeppowers although DMM accuracy will probably be different between myself & Gerrit. FWIW I am using an Amprobe AM510 with stock leads.

According to HJK“s review they are a very good performing cell http://lygte-info.dk/review/batteries2012/Keeppower%20IMR26650%205200mAh%20(Black)%202015%20UK.html

Also usually no 2 lights will give exactly the same readings even if using the same cells & test equipment.
Have a look at the graphs on post 99 here http://budgetlightforum.com/node/44802?page=3
A difference in accuracy of the DMM of only 0.3% would give the Keeppowers the same tail cap reading as the Basen.


Good high capacity cells, yes. Not great cells if you are looking for max output or a high tailcap reading. Look at the sag when compared to higher drain cells like a fair amount of the 4200mAh 26650. That’s why I opted for 4200mAh Efest IMR26650 cells for near max output, but a fair compromise in capacity.


Pulled from HKJ’s comparator: http://lygte-info.dk/review/batteries2012/Common26650comparator.php

bella-headlight
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I wasn“t looking for a high tail cap reading, if I had been I would have chosen another cell.
Agreed there is some voltage sag but as the S70 only pulls 5A on turbo & as I didn“t envisage running it on turbo all the time (having to have to re-set it every 3 minutes after it stepped down) I went for the KP“s.
I was more interested in run time on the lower settings (high) TBH.
However as I have the Cometa coming which again is around 5.5A on max I think, I may order a pair of Basen“s Smile
Also when my new light meter arrives I will be able to measure light out put with the 3 different brand pairs of 26650 cells I have Wink
I may even get a pair of KK“s as I think that I will be getting a second Cometa if the first is as good as it sounds.

Ian

Gerrit
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Tail cap measurements Thorfire S70 stock with BASEN 26650 4500 mah

[IMG]http://i64.tinypic.com/jt79t0.jpg[/IMG]

bella-headlight
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Yes no getting away from it that those are impressive readings from those Basen“s Smile

Ian

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Basen at 4.18V does 4.12A tail current, Efest 4200mAh at 4.18V does 4.12A. Fresh charged Efest 4200mAh at 4.22V do 4.68A but the same output in the light box at ~3657 lumens, dropping a mere 21 lumens in 30 seconds.

pilotdog68
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1dash1 wrote:
pilotdog68 wrote:
Try using the light first. Even in stock form it is very very bright. I would have also liked to de-tune it a bit from where I have it now, but I didn’t have any low value resistors.

What exactly did you mean by “liked to de-tune it a bit from where I have it now”?

- Is 9A too hot? Or is it just too much wasted energy?

- And what would you have liked to have targeted … 6A? 7A?

Overall, was it worth hotwiring or would you have been happier with just the simple spring bypasses?

Whereas many of my lights are not practical at all, just more for showing off and making people giggle, I consider this light very practical mainly because of the beam pattern and brightness and battery indicator (with my clear button Oops ). It doesn’t get too hot maxed out, but I think somewhere around 7amps would be a better balance of crazy lumens and better battery life. There are diminishing returns at the very high amp levels.

My Favorite Modded Lights: X6R, S8 , X2R , M6, SP03

Major Projects:  Illuminated Tailcap, TripleDown/TripleStack Driver

1dash1
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pilotdog68 wrote:
Whereas many of my lights are not practical at all, just more for showing off and making people giggle, I consider this light very practical mainly because of the beam pattern and brightness and battery indicator (with my clear button Oops ). It doesn’t get too hot maxed out, but I think somewhere around 7amps would be a better balance of crazy lumens and better battery life. There are diminishing returns at the very high amp levels.

Thanks for “illuminating” the discussion! Wink

So the hunt is on for the right resistor that fits the bill.

And I envy you for your clear button, mine came with the opaque gray button. Sick

Rule 1-1 as it applies to life, take it as it comes.

DB Custom
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I pulled mine back down to 5A for a 4264 lumens start value and 4154 at 30 seconds, balancing the total output with the maintenance of same. Wink

With 2 R091 resistors on board, I placed an 1ohm on the extra pad, then stacked 3 more 1ohm resistors for a total resistance value of .038494. Stock value was .0455.

The Miller
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I must way, the S70 is used a lot.
We have our chickens and quails under attack.
two dead quails bitten in the neck by a very thin digging predator
(probably something in this family https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mustelidae

last sumer in broad daylight 2 of our chickens were eaten by a fox (we know because we spotted it digging to get into the quail pen later.

So now i check the pens from the house, click clikc and BAM all is lit and I can inspect the whole yard.
Very nice, I do not even have to go outside.

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Not surprising, but tailcap amp measurements are all over the place: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1AcA6-rezHqeXpBLQERag6Hb5qDyhsAO0...

Generalizing the limited information: tailcap amps (stock) run around 4-1/2 amps and OTF lumens (stock) approximately 4K lumens.

Rule 1-1 as it applies to life, take it as it comes.

DB Custom
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My first readings at 3567 with Efest and Basen cells was stock, right out of the box moments after delivery.

I did get it up over 9A and right at 6000 lumens, fall out was horrible, so I backed it down to the 5A setting you have listed second.

thijsco19
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DB Custom wrote:
I pulled mine back down to 5A for a 4264 lumens start value and 4154 at 30 seconds, balancing the total output with the maintenance of same. Wink

With 2 R091 resistors on board, I placed an 1ohm on the extra pad, then stacked 3 more 1ohm resistors for a total resistance value of .038494. Stock value was .0455.


I put a 0.2 Ohm on the extra pad and got 6A, it looked like a steady 6A. (using the Basen 4500mAh)
Didn’t test long and when I wanted to test it for a second time I released some magic smoke from the driver.. Angry
Here you can see the 0.2Ohm resistor in place, didn’t know it was a smaller size. (bought it from james @3tronics)

Here you can see that component that released his magic smoke, anyone has an idea what it was?

The rest of the driver seems fine. Could it be from a short at the led? I think the reflector makes contact with the wires, I had some tape on the reflector but it didn’t stay in place.

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I didn’t receive my Basen 26650’s yet. I only have 18650’s, MJ1 and standard NCR18650B protected. Which one should I use?

bella-headlight
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I would use the MJ1“s due to their higher amp rating.
The protected panny“s are very long so not 100% sure they would fit & the protection kicks in not much above the stock S70“s draw 6.70A iirc, would also imagine you would get more voltage sag with them.
I am also awaiting the arrival of a pair of Basen 26650“s to see what tail cap readings they will give with my stock S70 compared to my unprotected 5200 mah Keeppower 26650“s (5.24A) & 5000 mah Thorfire 26650“s (5.01A iirc).
Basen 26650“s have given around 5.5A tail cap readings for some members.

Ian

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1dash1 wrote:
Not surprising, but tailcap amp measurements are all over the place: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1AcA6-rezHqeXpBLQERag6Hb5qDyhsAO0...

Generalizing the limited information: tailcap amps (stock) run around 4-1/2 amps and OTF lumens (stock) approximately 4K lumens.

FYI my S70 is totally stock Smile

Ian

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HELP!!! new here, not sure how to ask a question. Need help from you tech’s. Got my S70 and it will not come on . Checked in DIY forum and read the info from Don, used paper clip from batteries to body and light comes on and changes modes. So I guess the problem is the tail cap?? THANKS for any help

osb40000
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gungoat wrote:
HELP!!! new here, not sure how to ask a question. Need help from you tech’s. Got my S70 and it will not come on . Checked in DIY forum and read the info from Don, used paper clip from batteries to body and light comes on and changes modes. So I guess the problem is the tail cap?? THANKS for any help

Mine would not turn on with the ring on. I popped it off and it turned on just fine.

texas shooter
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gungoat wrote:
HELP!!! new here, not sure how to ask a question. Need help from you tech’s. Got my S70 and it will not come on . Checked in DIY forum and read the info from Don, used paper clip from batteries to body and light comes on and changes modes. So I guess the problem is the tail cap?? THANKS for any help

Two things I can think of. First remove the four pedal cigar ring and try again. If it works the cigar ring was not turned all the way down or the retaining ring in the switch was over tightened and not giving you enough clearance. If the second slightly loosen the retaining ring until the light works.

If the cigar ring was not the issue the try tightening down the switches retaining ring.

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