Very nice!

Do I see some layers of asbestos cloth on top of the iron?

Nice work on the indium soldering!

Hmm, isn’t that toxic?

Well , YOU make it look easy !

BlueSwordM wrote:

Hmm, isn’t that toxic?

My (late) mother used to warm the croissants on top of an asbestos simmer plate on the stove. But I will more probably die from her chip pan: she never replaced the fat for 20 years, when the level got low she just added new fat.

djozz wrote:

BlueSwordM wrote:

Hmm, isn’t that toxic?

This is white asbestos which is the less dangerous form. As long as you don’t saw or sand the stuff, producing asbestos dust, you should be ok.

So it’s like Beryllium Copper

As long as I don’t saw or sand BeCu, I’ll be fine.

waiting for 16mm to be in stock again.
thanks.

If I were to solder 4 nichia 119’s onto an VR21SP4 would they be spaced correctly for a Carclo quad or because of how the LED’s will center on the pads will the led to optic cone spacing be wrong?

Clemence, have you considered making 3×3 E21A MCPCBs? Would be expensive but compatible with 7070 optics (aside from low height) and producing a lot of high quality light.

4×4 E21A would be better

Clemence, would taking pre-orders for future products in your store help with speeding up development time? If so, I would gladly pay ahead for some 3×3 E21A along with Carclo triple compatible e21a boards.

Just a thought. Excited for what your doing! Keep up the good work!

Please make a E21A pcb for the BLF Lantern!

clemence wrote:

The_Driver wrote:

Please make a E21A pcb for the BLF Lantern!

Max current? voltage? Diameter? [Clemence]

I asked the designer of it here. 

Total current is 4.9A, so 0.6125A per LED (two strings of four LEDs are in parallel, so there needs to be a bit a tolerance for the max current per LED). Generelly it's very low powered.

I bet quite a few people might be interested in this. The interest list for the lantern alrrady has over 2000 entries!

It should be noted, for this purpose, that it’s max 2.34A (7*7135) per channel and that is with all solder bridges connected. The factory default will likely be even less:

You can add/remove the solder bridges to enable/disable current. He could even add more LEDs to reduce current per LED as long as it’s symmetrical.

No point doing A) since it will come with Samsung LH351D 90CRI 3000K and 5000K

C) wont be a problem I guess cause it has 2 separate channels

contactcr wrote:

It should be noted, for this purpose, that it’s max 2.34A (7*7135) per channel and that is with all solder bridges connected.

clemence wrote:

For lantern with no directional beam needed, I suggest 757 LEDs. Depending on the space available you can populate lots of them to get very high efficiency at much cheaper price. The options are.
——-
A.
NF2W757GV3F1:
- R8000: 2000K, 2200K, 2700K, 3000K, 3500K, 4000K, 4500K, 5000K, 5700K, 6500K
- R9050: 2700K, 3000K, 3500K, 4000K, 4500K, 5000K, 5700K, 6500K
Note: $0,1/pc. Very efficient at extremely cheap price
——-
B.
NF2L757GF1:
- R95: 2700K, 3000K, 3500K, 4000K, 4500K, 5000K
NF2W757GF1:
- R95: 5000K
Note: $0,3/pc. Priced very close to Optisolis, CRI slightly higher than R9080 unlike Optisolis, they can be mixed freely
——-
C.
NF2L757GF1 (Optisolis):
- R95+: 2700K, 3000K, 3500K, 4000K
NF2W757GF1 (Optisolis):
- R95+: 5000K, 6500K
Note: $0,5/pc. CC and WW can’t be mixed in parallel. Currently, the highest possible CRI for LED
——-
D.
NVSLE21AT
- R9080: 2000K, 2200K, 2700K, 3000K, 3500K, 4000K, 4500K, 5000K, 5700K, 6500K
NVSWE21AT
- R9080: 5000K, 5700K, 6500K
Note: $1/pc. The most efficient and expensive compared to A ,B, and C. Light quality slightly lower than B

[Clemence]

I would be interested in a new board but only if it is E21A because the E21A comes has the famous 9080 2000k option that can mimic candle light. Since the other options only go down to 2700K, it doesn’t add much more to the stock 3000K to 5000K LH351D 90CRI, despite the Optisolis has superior color rendering.

SKV89 wrote:

I would be interested in a new board but only if it is E21A because the E21A comes has the famous 9080 2000k option that can mimic candle light. Since the other options only go down to 2700K, it doesn't add much more to the stock 3000K to 5000K LH351D 90CRI, despite the Optisolis has superior color rendering.

Exactly! The 2000K 90CRI+ with tint on BBL (!!!) variant is the main reason. 6500K for the other end of the spectrum makes it "perfect" and the tint more reddish.

Cost will be high either way because of shipping, the board etc.

The_Driver wrote:

Please make a E21A pcb for the BLF Lantern!

Just wanted to share. I put a single 6500k optisolis into an ultrafire u-f10 which is a cheap but very high quality aspherical. The goal was to have a perfectly uniform wide beam: more uniform and more concentrated than that of a mule. Works GREAT

clemence wrote:

For lantern with no directional beam needed, I suggest 757 LEDs. Depending on the space available you can populate lots of them to get very high efficiency at much cheaper price. The options are.
——-
A.
NF2W757GV3F1:
- R8000: 2000K, 2200K, 2700K, 3000K, 3500K, 4000K, 4500K, 5000K, 5700K, 6500K
- R9050: 2700K, 3000K, 3500K, 4000K, 4500K, 5000K, 5700K, 6500K
Note: $0,1/pc. Very efficient at extremely cheap price
——-
B.
NF2L757GF1:
- R95: 2700K, 3000K, 3500K, 4000K, 4500K, 5000K
NF2W757GF1:
- R95: 5000K
Note: $0,3/pc. Priced very close to Optisolis, CRI slightly higher than R9080 unlike Optisolis, they can be mixed freely
——-
C.
NF2L757GF1 (Optisolis):
- R95+: 2700K, 3000K, 3500K, 4000K
NF2W757GF1 (Optisolis):
- R95+: 5000K, 6500K
Note: $0,5/pc. CC and WW can’t be mixed in parallel. Currently, the highest possible CRI for LED
——-
D.
NVSLE21AT
- R9080: 2000K, 2200K, 2700K, 3000K, 3500K, 4000K, 4500K, 5000K, 5700K, 6500K
NVSWE21AT
- R9080: 5000K, 5700K, 6500K
Note: $1/pc. The most efficient and expensive compared to A ,B, and C. Light quality slightly lower than B

[Clemence]

A: probably not enough Rf (and R9) for extra ‘warm’ CCTs, otherwise similar to 351D offerings (more available CCTs though)
B: would be very tempting for making a tint mix between 2700K and 4500K
C: too bad, that no tint mixing is possible between ‘L’ and ‘W’ group – some people would find 2700K to 4000K tint mixing a bit narrow
D: probably the best option – would let very useful tint mixings to happen (more than one) – a mood variant with 2000K to 3500K, and a base variant with 2700K to 5000K

If DBSAR would make Sofirn to have Nichia variant of BLF LT1, that would be awesome (probably I would just buy those).