Emisar D4S review

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DB Custom
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I have 80 CRI 5000K Samsungs in my D4S at the moment. The new ones coming in, the W bin, those are 70 CRI 5700K. I think they’ve been testing up around 2000 lumens or more, similar to the XP-L2, but with a better beam profile.

Look for em at DigiKey, they have had a good selection here… you just might get lucky. Smile (They’re only a couple bucks each, so the price is right as well)

Edit: There are 90 CRI offerings too, albeit at a lower power bin.

Newlumen
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DB Custom wrote:
I have 25 of the LH351D coming Friday in a W power bin, 2 bins up from what I have in it now. Wink

Where do you buy them? Do you see any green tint?

Newlumen
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DB Custom wrote:
Working on 7000+ Blue, should be there sometime Friday… Wink

Haven’t even bypassed springs yet… lol

Edit: Up to 6503.25 lumens at start now. Big Smile

Same 80 CRI 5000K Samsung LH351D’s, I pulled the driver spring and make a shallow solder blob on the driver and then put one of my large Blue springs in the tail cap with a 20ga bypass. This is with the LG HG6 20650 cell, rested and partially used. Wink

If you dont like a 6500 lumen, i will buy it. Lol

DB Custom
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It’s not so much a matter of like or not like, it’s a matter of I mod to see what can be achieved, where can this one go, ya know? After this one, it’ll be another one. And so it goes… which is why I have over 200 lights.

I’ve wondered before if it would be feasible to put a sense resistor between the FET and the emitter lead, to tone one down to reasonable after finding out how much of a monster it can be. Sometimes I just like a light, but full monster can be too much so it can be necessary to back em off. Anduril helps there as the ceiling can be set to a reasonable level and the double click reserved for Monster duty. Wink

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I’ve only tried one light with LH351D (80CRI 5000K), and it turned out disappointingly green. The only light I’ve had which was more green was one which used dedomed emitters. I may have just gotten unlucky though, because others report results much closer to white.

So I’m tempted to get some minus green filter material and put it on the lens.

DB Custom
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I’ve used 30 of the LH351D in 80 CRI 5000K and none of them have shown green. Too warm for me maybe but no green. I have them in the D4S, I have them in an X6 with the D4S quad board and optic, and again in a copper light also using the quad board and optic. Also in my Titanium D4. Also in my EDC Custom made Ti/Cu quad with Carclo 10507 optic.

I do not like a green tint to show, have used Lee filter film to eliminate green on multiple occasions, but I’m just not seeing it on these at all.

To have taken apart my custom made Ti EDC and replaced emitters with these says a lot, simply wouldn’t have done it if there was any issue. What did surprise me is how nice the beam profile is out of the Carclo quad optic, a big round hot spot with very few artifacts, very pleasing indeed.

That’s not to say that the 25 that are on the way here now will be just as pleasing, of course I hope they are but this is all the experience I have with Samsung emitters so it could be a gamble, just don’t know. I’ve used 31 and have 50 coming Friday, so I should be getting a better feel for Samsung emitters pretty soon. Wink

Newlumen
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I love my d4s 5000k. It’s just get brighter everyday.. I rarely use turbo, and I set it to stepped mode 7 which is about 2000 lumen.. 2000 lumen is crazy bright. This light is super cool.

8_C77_D30_D-7376-48_F4-_B75_D-_A81_B1_A1_D33_FF
upload pics

ToyKeeper
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In a 10507 triple optic, my LH351D emitters look like this:

This used automatic white balance, so some green has already been filtered out. In person, it looks warmer and greener.

Much of the unwanted tint goes into the corona, which makes the hotspot look a little better in contrast. But next to other lights, even the hotspot doesn’t have a very nice tint.

DB Custom
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Ah, I see. When you search for micro-organisms on your walls the green tint is obtrusive. I don’t do that kind of test so I haven’t noticed how many of my lights show a similar issue, whether in green or blue or purple or whatever. I would assume most of them show something in the off beam, probably part of what the dome imparts. The phosphor is yellow, the natural tint of the emitter is blue, Ziploc teaches me that yellow and blue makes green. Wink lol

Looking at dozens of my lights in this way, with everything from Nichia to XP-L to HI to Samsung emitters, they all have this to some degree… some worse than others. Well, my Green D4 is worse by far of course. (Green XP-E2’s). But seriously, every light I check displays this in varying degree, from TIR lights to multi-emitter lights, my D1 and D1S, every light I check. Even the Nitecore TM16 with 4 XHP-35 HI emitters. My DBC-07 with XHP-35 HD is horrid in the big 124mm reflector. (when checked against a white AC unit cover panel)

Even my 5 year old Solarforce S2200 with MT-G2. Even my Texas Poker with High CRI Nichia 219C at 5000K.

So it would appear that any tint in the white or higher (cool white) tint is going to show this to some degree. Probably the only way to avoid it is to use warm white emitters that have the orange colored phosphor on the die. And those are too orange/brown for my liking, so I personally wouldn’t use anything like that. (they get thrown in the trash immediately over here)

komeko
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Why do so few people choose the version from XP-G2 S4 3D, 4885K? It is cheaper, has a good beam focus and hue. I have these LEDs in the M43 meteor and I really like them. In Emisar D4 it has a different shade using the same LEDs. I do not know what it is caused. Maybe a different party or optician. To me too much yellow. You can see it on my BBL chart. I wonder how it is in D4s. If I was sure that it would be like in M43, I would buy it without hesitation, but I’m afraid that it will be like in D4.

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DB Custom
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Hmmm, took shots with my Canon 1DsMkII and Hybrid Image Stabilized 100mm Macro lens, not seeing that green hue… perhaps it’s something the Carclo optic imparts? The D4S uses a Ledil Angie. The separation of tints from the Ledil optic is quite different. There may be some off color very near the hot spot that isn’t showing the same, need to change settings on my camera and try again in JPEG instead of RAW so it’s a straight out of camera look at it….

Edit: My Emisar D4S with Samsung LH351D 80 CRI 5000K U6 emitters as presented by Ledil’s Angie Optic.

The AC Unit’s cover panel is appliance white. These are both SOOC JPEGs as processed by the 1DsMkII’s processing engine and it’s full frame sensor. The Anduril firmware is on at the 100% 7135 level.

DB Custom
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komeko, I DID get the XP-G2 S4 3D in my D4S. And it did look pretty good. Underpowered for me, of course, but the look of it was nice.

Edit: Remember that the D4 uses Carclo optics with an 8.9mm TIR while the D4S uses Ledil optics with an 13.7mm TIR. Different manufacturer of optic, different material, different TIR design all around.

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I have older XM-L2 emitters that have been gas de-domed if you want to talk about ugly green hue… Wink

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Using Photoshop, selecting the “green hue” area of the picture, it is listed as Pantone color number 7538C which is between bronze and grey.

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So many unknowns: D
It’s best if some user had both (XP-G2 and XP-L) and showed them side by side on a white background.

And in D4, I would like to change the optics that can change my color and beam a bit.

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DB Custom
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True that, komeko. But where are the “white” emitters? Your color chart, see the white border? Can that be found inside the color chart? Or as light transmission from an emitter? That’s what I’d like to see, just white, pure white, no tint one way or another.

komeko
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All my flashlights that are on the BBL line are great for me. Of course, most of it is my mod (XP-L HI U6 3A, MT-G2 and unmodified M43 with XP-G2)

The same under BBL is acceptable to me. I do not like outlining lights much above BBL.

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shinysideup
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Hello,

Maybe I missed it somewhere in the thread, but can someone tell me what lockout LED modes are available when you triple click while in lockout? Just so I fully understand them.
Im referring to the “next lockout LED mode” section of the V3 UI chart in post 1. Thanks in advance! Smile

Man Without Shadow
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off, dim, high, blink

When I'm spending on¥ foolishly, I like to do it i$el¥...

I have all the flashlights I need, but not as many as I want...

 

shinysideup
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Man Without Shadow wrote:
off, dim, high, blink

Excellent, thanks!

Edit: I realize now, that they’re the same options the Aux LEDs have while off. Facepalm Makes sense.

Newlumen
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komeko wrote:
Why do so few people choose the version from XP-G2 S4 3D, 4885K? It is cheaper, has a good beam focus and hue. I have these LEDs in the M43 meteor and I really like them. In Emisar D4 it has a different shade using the same LEDs. I do not know what it is caused. Maybe a different party or optician. To me too much yellow. You can see it on my BBL chart. I wonder how it is in D4s. If I was sure that it would be like in M43, I would buy it without hesitation, but I’m afraid that it will be like in D4.

I did choose xpg2 s4 3d 4885k.. its on the way..

komeko
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Oooo, I’m waiting for the photos of the beam

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DB Custom wrote:
not seeing that green hue… perhaps it’s something the Carclo optic imparts?

Yes, it is. And it only shows up in the 10507 optic. The beam is very smooth and consistent with the 10511 optic. However, with the green parts blended in with the rest of the 10511 beam, the entire thing looks green instead of just the corona.

I haven’t tried a polished 10511 optic yet. It might improve throw without creating a green ring… or it might not.

Yourrid
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Just got my gray D4S, XPL Hi in the mail. Emisar (Hank) sure does know how to make a fantastic light! Love The Aux LED’s are so cool! The tailcap magnet is surprisingly strong; I’m glad I got the extra tail cap without the magnet. I really like the recessed button too. Makes it very easy to find.

Kuddos to everyone involved, especially ToyKeeper Thumbs Up

I will say my only very small… nuance I noticed is the time it takes the light to turn off when clicked. I remember reading someone else mention it earlier. I guess there is a way to rewrite the UI code to change it, but is there any to do this through the UI alone? I don’t have a way to flash the driver yet so I was just curious. All in all, it’s not a problem… I wouldn’t even notice if I didn’t carry around my mini D4 around all day Big Smile

Ordered: 8/3
Shipped: 8/12
Received: 8/30 Georgia

Farmer Harv
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HOT! This little thing is fantastic, but holy hot hand grenade! I ordered the Nichia version, and everything I read about them getting a little warmish is definitely true. Love the UI, the aux LED’s are pretty cool, and the magnet is impressive.

But I need to get some oven mitts. Oh well, a small price to pay for getting everything else in this nice of a package.

Getting around 2600-2700 lumens at 30 seconds with a couple of different batteries, so it seems plenty bright. Glad the days are getting shorter so it’ll be dark soon and I can try her out tonight. Smile

Newlumen
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Yourrid wrote:
Just got my gray D4S, XPL Hi in the mail. Emisar (Hank) sure does know how to make a fantastic light! Love The Aux LED’s are so cool! The tailcap magnet is surprisingly strong; I’m glad I got the extra tail cap without the magnet. I really like the recessed button too. Makes it very easy to find.

Kuddos to everyone involved, especially ToyKeeper Thumbs Up

I will say my only very small… nuance I noticed is the time it takes the light to turn off when clicked. I remember reading someone else mention it earlier. I guess there is a way to rewrite the UI code to change it, but is there any to do this through the UI alone? I don’t have a way to flash the driver yet so I was just curious. All in all, it’s not a problem… I wouldn’t even notice if I didn’t carry around my mini D4 around all day Big Smile

Ordered: 8/3
Shipped: 8/12
Received: 8/30 Georgia

Nice. I am glad you like it. I use my d4s xpl 5000k everyday.. 2000 lumen is the sweet spot for me.

shinysideup
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Farmer Harv wrote:
HOT! This little thing is fantastic, but holy hot hand grenade! I ordered the Nichia version, and everything I read about them getting a little warmish is definitely true. Love the UI, the aux LED’s are pretty cool, and the magnet is impressive.

But I need to get some oven mitts. Oh well, a small price to pay for getting everything else in this nice of a package.

Getting around 2600-2700 lumens at 30 seconds with a couple of different batteries, so it seems plenty bright. Glad the days are getting shorter so it’ll be dark soon and I can try her out tonight. Smile

In Canada, the D4 was an excellent hand warmer last winter. The D4S will be similar! The heat has some positives. Big Smile

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shinysideup wrote:

In Canada, the D4 was an excellent hand warmer last winter. The D4S will be similar! The heat has some positives. Big Smile

You and the D4 were probably the reason we had a couple of extra chinooks blow through. Thank you for contributing to global warming! Smile

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Yourrid wrote:
Just got my gray D4S, XPL Hi in the mail. Emisar (Hank) sure does know how to make a fantastic light!

It really is a nice product. I can’t really complain about it. Smile

Yourrid wrote:
I will say my only very small… nuance I noticed is the time it takes the light to turn off when clicked. I remember reading someone else mention it earlier. I guess there is a way to rewrite the UI code to change it, but is there any to do this through the UI alone?

No, that cannot be changed without reflashing the firmware.

The reason it doesn’t turn off immediately is because it’s not sure if the user is going to press the button more than once. For example, to go to turbo or to ramp down. So it waits until it’s sure there won’t be a second button press, and then it shuts off.

If it were to turn off immediately like RampingIOS V2, it would also turn off before going to turbo, or before ramping down. So it’s a question of whether it’s better to wait longer to shut off, or whether it’s better to briefly shut off sometimes even when it shouldn’t.

But if you rebuild the firmware, you can at least make it wait a shorter time. The default is 24 frames, but some people prefer 20 or even 16 frames because it makes the interface faster. Others prefer as much as 36 frames, because they have difficulty clicking fast enough otherwise. For reference, each frame is 0.016s, so there are 62 frames per second. The default delay is 0.384 s.

Yourrid
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Toykeeper, I think I’ll leave this beauty as you all designed it to be Smile Like I said, if I didn’t already have the D4, I wouldn’t even notice it.

Thinking about the D4S… makes me wonder what is next for Emisar. A MT09R spin-off would be pretty cool… just sayin Innocent

Thanks again for everyone’s hard work on this light! I know there are a lot of people behind the scenes that I don’t even know had a hand in this light. Y’all should be very proud of this fantastic and extremely innovative light. Beer

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