Emisar D4S review

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d_t_a
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DB Custom wrote:
That makes sense d_t_a, because as far as I know there are only two positions in the ramp where there is no PWM in play, the 100% 7135 level and 100% FET level. With the Nichia 219C having such a low Vf and requiring a throttling to control heat the FET is not at 100% and so there is a slight PWM.

If you can check it immediately after installing the cell, it should come on at the 100% 7135 level, does it show PWM there?

At 100% 7135 regulated level, no PWM detected for the D4 Nichia, so it seems to confirm that theory of the 80% (or not 100%) FET level while on Turbo mode.

komeko
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twisted raven wrote:
On its lower outputs it’s very close to the BBL.

Do you have x-y data so that I can see how close BBL is?

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twisted raven
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I’m just going off of Maukka’s review. On lower outputs it’s -.0020 as opposed to the -.0080 on max. Still on the rosy side, but tastefully so.

DB Custom
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Trying not to look at the ROT66… don’t have the funds. Feel like I’m losing…

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Okay, I could not stand it and I ordered D4s in XP-L HI. I have one 26650 in stock, so I will used it.
ROT66 will have to wait. Maybe at this time, he will get rid of childhood defects.

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komeko wrote:
Okay, I could not stand it and I ordered D4s in XP-L HI. I have one 26650 in stock, so I will used it. ROT66 will have to wait. Maybe at this time, he will get rid of childhood defects.

Why are you waiting for?? You get all the lumen in one hot spot with xpl hi.

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DB Custom wrote:
Trying not to look at the ROT66… don’t have the funds. Feel like I’m losing…

Make sure you get the black rot66. I was told champagne color step down quicker.

twisted raven
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Newlumen wrote:
DB Custom wrote:
Trying not to look at the ROT66… don’t have the funds. Feel like I’m losing…

Make sure you get the black rot66. I was told champagne color step down quicker.

What?!

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twisted raven wrote:
Newlumen wrote:
DB Custom wrote:
Trying not to look at the ROT66… don’t have the funds. Feel like I’m losing…

Make sure you get the black rot66. I was told champagne color step down quicker.

What?!


I think it more likely that the stepdown time is very variable but completely random, depending on the very inaccurate internal temoerature sensor of the MCU.
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djozz wrote:
twisted raven wrote:
Newlumen wrote:
DB Custom wrote:
Trying not to look at the ROT66… don’t have the funds. Feel like I’m losing…

Make sure you get the black rot66. I was told champagne color step down quicker.

What?!


I think it more likely that the stepdown time is very variable but completely random, depending on the very inaccurate internal temoerature sensor of the MCU.

Ok. I told him to test the rot66 champagne again.

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Anyone know what size of Orings this thing takes?

lowprofile
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Regarding the “boundary” between regulated and unregulated, what “level” is that at in terms of ramp? Ie if I wanted to set my ramp ceiling to the highest regulated, would it be 100 or 110 or whatever? Thanks!

Actually, is this meaningful at all? I just wanted to pick a max output (sub-turbo) that has a good balance of run time and brightness, or at least a more predictable run time. Imagine bringing this camping and having it on at 90% instead of 50% and the battery dies in less than an hour of use (of course I have many spares).

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eas
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First, in smooth ramp, there is a little “hitch” when it transitions to or from the fully regulated modes.

Second, the “unregulated” zone blends is really a blend of regulated and unregulated, so being a bit over the fully regulated zone has a fairly minor hit on efficiency.

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lowprofile wrote:
Regarding the “boundary” between regulated and unregulated, what “level” is that at in terms of ramp? Ie if I wanted to set my ramp ceiling to the highest regulated, would it be 100 or 110 or whatever? Thanks!

Actually, is this meaningful at all? I just wanted to pick a max output (sub-turbo) that has a good balance of run time and brightness, or at least a more predictable run time. Imagine bringing this camping and having it on at 90% instead of 50% and the battery dies in less than an hour of use (of course I have many spares).


I knew I had seen this somewhere, I found it again in this post.

ToyKeeper wrote:
For example, level 85 is the 3×7135 mode and should be about 400 lm with XP-L HI emitters.

I’d suggest checking a few points along the curve, like 1, 40, 85, 120, and 150. Then adjust the parameters until all of those line up with the expected values.

I believe the post is discussing ways to set up the variation of light intensity per step, but the info you were looking for is step 85 is the highest regulated output on the 7135 chips.

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DB Custom wrote:
To play Devil’s advocate TK, WHERE is the shade of white in your pictures? I see tinted beams, all around. No white to be found at all.

Exactly.

I set up the photo to make tint variations as visible as possible. Lights running at only ~50 lm, short exposure with low ISO, photo taken at an angle to avoid direct reflections, factory preset white balance, etc. Because, in general, none of our lights are truly pure white.

Well, except for a couple lights people made experimentally to see how close they could get to pure white. And, next to a ROT66-219b, pure white looks a bit green.

Personally, I like that. I think a rosy tint looks more white than a true pure white. That’s why I like the Nichia 219b so much.

Everything in the photos is white though. They’re just different shades of white, photographed carefully to make the different shades stand out.

I’ve had very few lights which I wouldn’t classify as white. Here’s one though. On the right is a D4-219c 5000K. And on the left is a D4 with dedomed XP-G2 emitters. It had good throw, but it made everything look gross. The tint was so far off white that I ended up un-modding it.

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sbslider wrote:
I believe the post is discussing ways to set up the variation of light intensity per step, but the info you were looking for is step 85 is the highest regulated output on the 7135 chips.
Wouldn’t this depend on the max allowed temperature you program in?
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komeko wrote:
ROT66 will have to wait. Maybe at this time, he will get rid of childhood defects.

Yes, I think the next batch is supposed to have some things fixed.

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Pete7874 wrote:
sbslider wrote:
I believe the post is discussing ways to set up the variation of light intensity per step, but the info you were looking for is step 85 is the highest regulated output on the 7135 chips.
Wouldn’t this depend on the max allowed temperature you program in?

Different types of regulation.

Ramp level 85/150 is the highest level with fully-regulated power on the 7135 chips. Above that, the FET activates.

Thermal regulation is completely independent of that. It depends on the temperature the user configured. However, thermal regulation does a hardcoded floor, below which it will not attempt to reduce power for heat reasons. On the D4S, that floor is level 60/150.

These values are set in cfg-emisar-d4s.h , along with other hardware-specific parameters.

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djozz wrote:
twisted raven wrote:
Newlumen wrote:
Make sure you get the black rot66. I was told champagne color step down quicker.

What?!

I think it more likely that the stepdown time is very variable but completely random, depending on the very inaccurate internal temoerature sensor of the MCU.

Yes. The anodizing color is not related to the thermal step-down behavior. That’s just random, based on factory variation in the attiny85 chip.

I have FSM / Anduril working on it though, and it includes a way to calibrate the sensor for more consistent behavior. It works on all Emisar lights and all Fireflies lights so far, plus a few others. And the D4S includes the calibration code too, because it’s built into RampingIOS V3.

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lowprofile wrote:
a more predictable run time.

That is what the stepped ramp is for. It allows hitting exactly the same level every time, for consistent and predictable runtimes.

byarnell05
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Is there a place that breaks down exactly how to use every feature this light has? Like a step by step walkthrough of how to program the thermal config and how to program the ramps/floor/ceiling?

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Nice info.. gonna read it.. what’s the difference between Anduril and narsil??

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Newlumen wrote:
Nice info.. gonna read it.. what’s the difference between Anduril and narsil??

It’d be easier to say what’s the same. They both run on the same hardware, more or less. They both have smooth ramping with a very similar ramp interface, and they both have discrete levels… though the method for discrete levels is different. Otherwise, almost everything is different.

Same basic idea, when painted with broad strokes. But the details are all pretty different.

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Duplicate post…

Mstevens113
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Want one of these just can’t manage to pull the trigger and spend more money. Just a bit more than I can justify. Damn this site and it’s temptations! Angry

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d_t_a wrote:
Mr.Beam wrote:
ToyKeeper wrote:
There is no factory reset, but it wouldn’t help much anyway because the thermal sensor isn’t calibrated at the factory. That can only be done manually.
 
many thanks for your very detailed reply, tk, i am familiar with the calibration procedure Smile
so i’m gonna go to get a working ambient temperature thermometer soon…
 
 
Mr.Beam wrote:
btw: the aux leds of mine aren’t cyan but green. that is quite odd.
chinooker wrote:
mine on lowest setting could be mistaken for green, butt on higher setting are definitely cyan
CM2010 wrote:
Just tried to take a pic of mine using my phone and it does look cyan but the moment I take it away it looks green. Eyes are playing tricks.
 
the aux leds of mine are looking really green at low and high with digi cam and eye. it’s the nichia version from hank’s shop. after the weekend i could post some pictures.

In Neal’s deals for the D4S (seems to be nearly similar price as directly Hank’s but with a few inclusion), it mentions some models have blue/cyan aux leds while others have green aux leds..

i though id give it a try and order one but the colour of the aux leds look the same as the torch from Int-outdoors. i’ll try and get a photo later when im home

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Just to put it out there, white is only white when there are no shades. In my line of work, when a bride spends over $2000 for a white wedding dress it DANG SURE BETTER look white in the pictures! Never mind she stood in front of blue, green yellow and red stained glass with the sun shining through, she paid for white and it’s white she wants! No shades!

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maukka wrote:
RampingIOS V3 Manual by phil_g on reddit.

Thanks maukka!

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Mstevens113 wrote:
Want one of these just can’t manage to pull the trigger and spend more money. Just a bit more than I can justify. Damn this site and it’s temptations! Angry

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