Fireflies ROT66, Born for fans of flashlight

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steel_1024
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twisted raven wrote:
Steel, do you know how long the runtime is for the rot66 on its highest regulated ouptut? Is heat an issue?

Heat is always a big problem.
Just like D4.
Very short running time on 5000 lumens.

Sorry for my poor english.

twisted raven
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steel_1024 wrote:
twisted raven wrote:
Steel, do you know how long the runtime is for the rot66 on its highest regulated ouptut? Is heat an issue?

Heat is always a big problem.
Just like D4.
Very short running time on 5000 lumens.

I get that the max output would be super hot with minimal runtime, but what about the highest regulated output? If I’m not mistaken, the driver allows for fully regulated outputs up to a certain lumen rating, then anything higher than that is direct drive.

The_Flashaholic
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Does the ROT66 only come with a diffuser if you get it from M4DM4X?

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KG_Tuning wrote:
Does the ROT66 only come with a diffuser if you get it from M4DM4X?

Yes! However, you can purchase the same diffuser from KD if you want.
The_Flashaholic
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Cheers!

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Wow, it's gorgeous!! Sorry, haven't been in touch, but, wow, wish I was involved with this one, or at least made aware since my name is listed with it.

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It’s a nice looking flooder to be sure.

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Tom E wrote:

Wow, it’s gorgeous!! Sorry, haven’t been in touch, but, wow, wish I was involved with this one, or at least made aware since my name is listed with it.


I’m here all the time. Maybe even too much time, and I didn’t know about it until about three or four days ago. Big Smile

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steel_1024
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twisted raven wrote:
I get that the max output would be super hot with minimal runtime, but what about the highest regulated output? If I’m not mistaken, the driver allows for fully regulated outputs up to a certain lumen rating, then anything higher than that is direct drive.

Turbo=Hightest Ramp

I also hope that Hightest Ramp=80% even 60%

Sorry for my poor english.

steel_1024
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Tom E wrote:

Wow, it’s gorgeous!! Sorry, haven’t been in touch, but, wow, wish I was involved with this one, or at least made aware since my name is listed with it.

Wow, long time no see Tom E.

This driver circuit is designed by Lexel.

I always think that he will contact you first.

Sorry for my poor english.

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twisted raven wrote:

I get that the max output would be super hot with minimal runtime, but what about the highest regulated output? If I’m not mistaken, the driver allows for fully regulated outputs up to a certain lumen rating, then anything higher than that is direct drive.

The driver shows 7 x amc7135 chips. If each chip is .350 amp, then fully regulated is 2.45A which is about 9 to 10 watts. That kind of heat is a bit too much for a small, single 18650 style light. The ROT66 light is a lot larger with more mass and surface area. I would guess it can run this continously.

I have no idea what the lumens would be, though. Steel would need to play with the brightness level looking for when the switch goes from 1 blink to 2 blinks, then measure the lumens.

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Using Texas Ace’s data (which is pretty consistent with the datasheets) for the 219B D220 and the XP-L HI V3 (adjusted from his test of a V2 emitter), at 272mA per emitter x 9 emitters, assume 85% efficiency from the optics, the output at max regulated mode should be roughly:

219B – 870 lumens
XP-L HI – 1090 lumens

However, I think I’m overestimating things a bit. Maukka got 84 lm/W when he tested a D4 with a 219C at 350mA.

If I estimate driver efficiency as Vf / V(battery average), I get 96 lm/W for the 219B version. I wouldn’t expect a 219B to outperform a 219C at such close currents.

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iamlucky13 wrote:
Using Texas Ace’s data (which is pretty consistent with the datasheets) for the 219B D220 and the XP-L HI V3 (adjusted from his test of a V2 emitter), at 272mA per emitter x 9 emitters, assume 85% efficiency from the optics, the output at max regulated mode should be roughly:

219B – 870 lumens
XP-L HI – 1090 lumens

However, I think I’m overestimating things a bit. Maukka got 84 lm/W when he tested a D4 with a 219C at 350mA.

If I estimate driver efficiency as Vf / V(battery average), I get 96 lm/W for the 219B version. I wouldn’t expect a 219B to outperform a 219C at such close currents.

such TIRs usually put 89-92% of the light in the hotspot
like 3-5% in the spill
the losses in the TIR are quite low, reflected light may be absorbed by dark MCPCB this is why I would use white ones, not red or any fancy color

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Lexel wrote:

such TIRs usually put 89-92% of the light in the hotspot
like 3-5% in the spill

When you say “such TIRs”, do you mean the brand and model that is used in the ROT66?

I’ve seen some models vary a lot. Some can be as low as 70% efficiency.

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JasonWW
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Can anyone say if the switch bezel threads off easily?

I think I see little notches for a tool to grab, but I’m not sure.

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twisted raven
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JasonWW wrote:
twisted raven wrote:

I get that the max output would be super hot with minimal runtime, but what about the highest regulated output? If I’m not mistaken, the driver allows for fully regulated outputs up to a certain lumen rating, then anything higher than that is direct drive.

The driver shows 7 x amc7135 chips. If each chip is .350 amp, then fully regulated is 2.45A which is about 9 to 10 watts. That kind of heat is a bit too much for a small, single 18650 style light. The ROT66 light is a lot larger with more mass and surface area. I would guess it can run this continously.

I have no idea what the lumens would be, though. Steel would need to play with the brightness level looking for when the switch goes from 1 blink to 2 blinks, then measure the lumens.

Thanks for the math! I’m hoping around 900-1000 lumens can be achieved with like a good hour of regulated runtime and no heat.

JasonWW
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twisted raven wrote:
JasonWW wrote:
twisted raven wrote:

I get that the max output would be super hot with minimal runtime, but what about the highest regulated output? If I’m not mistaken, the driver allows for fully regulated outputs up to a certain lumen rating, then anything higher than that is direct drive.

The driver shows 7 x amc7135 chips. If each chip is .350 amp, then fully regulated is 2.45A which is about 9 to 10 watts. That kind of heat is a bit too much for a small, single 18650 style light. The ROT66 light is a lot larger with more mass and surface area. I would guess it can run this continously.

I have no idea what the lumens would be, though. Steel would need to play with the brightness level looking for when the switch goes from 1 blink to 2 blinks, then measure the lumens.

Thanks for the math! I’m hoping around 900-1000 lumens can be achieved with like a good hour of regulated runtime and no heat.


Oh, 9 or 10 watts will eventually get it hot, but I don’t think hot enough to make it step down. Depending on the ambient temperature and if it’s windy or not, it may not exceed “warm”.

The great thing about using a ramping UI is that you can adjust it to exactly where you want. If it feels like the heat is becoming too much, you just ramp it down a little bit.

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steel_1024
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JasonWW wrote:
Can anyone say if the switch bezel threads off easily?

I think I see little notches for a tool to grab, but I’m not sure.

No notches, not easy to open

Looks like interference fit

Sorry for my poor english.

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steel_1024 wrote:
JasonWW wrote:
Can anyone say if the switch bezel threads off easily?

I think I see little notches for a tool to grab, but I’m not sure.

No notches, not easy to open

Looks like interference fit

Darn, I wanted to change the blue lights to yellow ones to look like fireflies

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huey18 wrote:

Darn, I wanted to change the blue lights to yellow ones to look like fireflies

Wow, beautiful picture

Sorry for my poor english.

JasonWW
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steel_1024 wrote:
JasonWW wrote:
Can anyone say if the switch bezel threads off easily?

I think I see little notches for a tool to grab, but I’m not sure.

No notches, not easy to open

Looks like interference fit


I wonder what they do if the switch goes bad?

Anyone have any ideas?

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steel_1024
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JasonWW wrote:

I wonder what they do if the switch goes bad?

Anyone have any ideas?

I will try the leverage……

Have to ask for a spare first.

Sorry for my poor english.

huey18
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I have one of these balls to open the caseback of my watches. I hope it is enough friction to grab the ring.

huey18
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Scratch that idea. It is not screwed in.

edit: I’m an idiot. The button is black and I thought it was a hole.

steel_1024
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Leverage principle, not difficult, but be careful

Will not hurt the rubber press, bezel

Sorry for my poor english.

huey18
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Thanks Steel!

JasonWW
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steel_1024 wrote:
Leverage principle, not difficult, but be careful

Will not hurt the rubber press, bezel


Thanks. Thumbs Up

It seems each led has its own resistor. I guess 4 wires total to switch.

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I've used a blade many time to remove these press fit type switch rings. First a razor blade, then a sharp utility knife. Only time it did some damage was to a D4Ti - marked up the soft copper but wasn't careful about using a clean, un-bent blade initially.

I recall Vinh posted info on using the blade on a NiteCore EDC way back.

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JasonWW wrote:
sb56637 wrote:
KG_Tuning wrote:
Maybe slightly more as the TA tube grossly under-reads floody light.

KG_Tuning, please drop the subject. This is your last warning before I proceed to permanently ban your account.


He’s not really bashing anything. He’s just stating that he thinks it might read low on floody lights. I don’t think it does, but this statement/opinion doesn’t seem against forum rules.

I Tested the ROT66 Nichia on my ‘KG-Lightbox’ and managed 5,700 with VTC5A, the XP-L ROT66 measured 8,400 lumens but sadly it arrived with one LED not working.

I wasn’t impressed with the D4 or M43 Nichias but the ROT66 has blown me away. The M43 looked to be emitting a green hue when placed side by side with the ROT66, it’s warmer but not yellowy so.

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KG_Tuning wrote:
The M43 looked to be emitting a green hue when placed side by side with the ROT66, it’s warmer but not yellowy so.

A word of warning — R9080 Nichia’s, especially the SW45k in the Rot66, make EVERYTHING look greenish/yellowish. Hell they make sunlight look off-color, because they’re pink. I love mine, both in the Rot66 and in some other lights I have, but I wouldn’t hold them up like some yardstick by which to compare others. They’re not good for that.

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