Steel_1024 measured 4,880 lumens with his TA Lumen Tube but not sure if he has a set of the Maukka calibration lights to confirm with. The TA Lumen tubes that weren’t calibrated with the Maukka lights were reading too high.
Charles Lin measured 4,740 turn on lumens and 4,300 at 30s with the TA Lumen Tube. But it might be his TA Tube also does not have correct calibration and reading too high.
I took time redo calibration for my TA tube. Now, my 219B ROT66 with 30Q’s measures 4440 lumen at 0 second, 3910 lumen at 30 seconds.
Very close to maukka specs… djozzz tube did pretty good too.
My tube is a very specially shaped tube, it is a spherical tube in a square box
Djozz, did you calibrate yours with Maukka’s calibration lights? Btw, that’s a very creative lumen sphere.
Follow his link for the sphere builds. He built these way before Maukka was offering his lights, plus I don’t see his name on the order list.
Before maukka started offering his lights, this spring I had an exchange of a couple of lights with him to check his calibration against my djozz-lumen (the djozz-lumen I found two years ago already 9% high when at TLF-meet-up re-measuring a couple of lights that were measured before in the Led Lenser sphere in Germany).
The calibration difference between maukka and me was different for a neutral 5000K 70CRI Nitecore P12 (djozz-lumen 7% higher than maukka) and for a BLF348 with 4000K 90CRI 219B V1 (djozz-lumen 11% higher than maukka). I have not found yet where the spectrum difference comes from (could be a few causes).
For the ROT66 numbers I substracted 10% from the djozz-lumen to correct for a high CRI Nichia that is a bit higher Kelvin than the BLF348 that read 11% high.
Driving me mad now, it’s reading 4600 tonight with fully charged Sony VTC5A x 3 and VTC6 × 3, down 1100 lumens on a few days back, but if I click off then go back to turbo I keep gaining 50+ lumens or so each time, the hotter it gets the brighter it gets at turn-on.
4600 at 4.20v 25c
5200 at 4.10v 40c
It doesn’t increase Lumens as it’s running though, only at turn on. My other lights aren’t doing it. My XP-L has a busted LED and the 219b seems to have output issues.
I wonder if the springs are expanding with increased heat giving reduced resistance or something. Ever so slightly loosening the tailcap reduces lumen output too.
Oh yeah it sets shop alarms off from 50m away too!
(I filmed it)
I’m filming it against the Noctigon M43 219C 80CRI and the ROT66 makes the Noctigon look unbelievably green. The D4 219C 80CRI stands up ok though, whitish subjects look super accurate.
Vf of most LEDs has negative temperature coefficient, this means LED current will be higher as temperature increases when DD driver is used. More current means more lumens.
Vf of most LEDs has negative temperature coefficient, this means LED current will be higher as temperature increases when DD driver is used. More current means more lumens.
It seems to peak at around 4.10v, I let it cool and fired it up at 4.10v and it was still 5000 lumens, it was 4500 lumens at 4.20v cold
My D4S records 4400 at 4.20v and 4600 at 4.17v from cold, Is this normal?
I just received my Fireflies that I ordered on the last day of the GB. I still haven’t received the one I ordered before the GB.
Here are the results measured with the TA Lumen Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights.
Champagne host 219B 4500k 9080
4650 lumens at 0s
1482 lumens at 30s
Dims at about 17s
Black host 219B 4500k 9080
4500 lumens at 0s
3991 lumens at 30s
Edit: The champagne host was tested with fresh off the charger VTC5D and the same cells were then used on the black host so that might have accounted for some of the lumen differences at 0s.
I tested the Champagne host twice and it steps down at about 17s. It doesn’t do that on the Black host. Anyone have any idea why that is?
The tint is super nice. It’s the best looking tint I have seen to date. I was afraid it might look too magenta as some people have commented on the 4500k 9080 but I’m so glad it is not magenta at all, just some pink/rosy. Even on turbo, it’s not as rosy looking as what you see in the pics. It’s very white at the center of the beam. On the lower modes, it is just neutral white and perfect.
I compared it with all of my other lights that looked neutral tinted before and now they look ugly yellow/green.
Location: (469219) 2016 HO3 // I get way more privmsgs than I can respond to, so please ask in a public thread if possible, for a faster answer.
SKV89 wrote:
I compared it with all of my other lights that looked neutral tinted before and now they look ugly yellow/green.
That’s how it starts. After seeing a truly good tint, nothing else will ever look quite the same again. And now you’ve got a lifelong affliction, because unfortunately this condition is terminal.
Here are some tint pics I took the other day, with the ROT66 Nichia included. White balance was set at sunlight, so the 5700k Jaxman E2 will look the whitest to the camera, though it’s pretty close to what I saw with my eyes subjectively.
I compared it with all of my other lights that looked neutral tinted before and now they look ugly yellow/green.
That’s how it starts. After seeing a truly good tint, nothing else will ever look quite the same again. And now you’ve got a lifelong affliction, because unfortunately this condition is terminal.
My sympathies.
It’s too bad there’s no substitute for this discontinued gorgeous 9080 tint. I’m thinking if we can get the SST-20-W FA1 bin, it should look about the same as the 219b 4500k 9080 but more powerful. Also the Samsung LH351D T1 bin should be similar too but no 80+ R9.
None of you are making it any easier for me to resist this light.
SKV89 wrote:
I tested the Champagne host twice and it steps down at about 17s. It doesn’t do that on the Black host. Anyone have any idea why that is?
I’m guessing it’s the normal variation in the uncalibrated temperature readings between different ATTiny chips. Perhaps the one light of yours reads low, and the other reads high.
For comparison, I just checked my D4, which has been sitting on my desk, turned off, in a 22° room for plenty of time to be at the ambient temperature. It reported 34°.
If the light thinks it’s warmer than it really is, it will step down faster.
I just received my Fireflies that I ordered on the last day of the GB. I still haven’t received the one I ordered before the GB.
Here are the results measured with the TA Lumen Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights.
Champagne host 219B 4500k 9080
4650 lumens at 0s
1482 lumens at 30s
Dims at about 17s
Black host 219B 4500k 9080
4500 lumens at 0s
3991 lumens at 30s
I tested the Champagne host twice and it steps down at about 17s. It doesn’t do that on the Black host. Anyone have any idea why that is?
The tint is super nice. It’s the best looking tint I have seen to date. I was afraid it might look too magenta as some people have commented on the 4500k 9080 but I’m so glad it is not magenta at all, just some pink/rosy. Even on turbo, it’s not as rosy looking as what you see in the pics. It’s very white at the center of the beam. On the lower modes, it is just neutral white and perfect.
I compared it with all of my other lights that looked neutral tinted before and now they look ugly yellow/green.
Keep testing them, mine read anywhere from 4400 to 5700 depending on heat and voltage.
There might be turbo reset issues.
Champagne host 219B 4500k 9080
4650 lumens at 0s
1482 lumens at 30s
Dims at about 17s
Black host 219B 4500k 9080
4500 lumens at 0s
3991 lumens at 30s
I tested the Champagne host twice and it steps down at about 17s. It doesn’t do that on the Black host. Anyone have any idea why that is?
Like was said earlier, the thermal protection may be kicking in way too soon on the champagne model. Try manually setting the thermal limit. I’ve got a video on it if you don’t know how.
—
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Rumor is Fireflies might be making an SST40 version (replacement for XPL-HI?) I don’t know much about the SST40. My order for an XPL-HI is on hold until they figure out the problem. A possible offer/solution is an SST40 version. (nothing concrete or confirmed at this point) Thoughts?
—
“Facts don’t care about your feelings.”
~Ben Shapiro
Rumor is Fireflies might be making an SST40 version (replacement for XPL-HI?) I don’t know much about the SST40. My order for an XPL-HI is on hold until they figure out the problem. A possible offer/solution is an SST40 version. (nothing concrete or confirmed at this point) Thoughts?
Rumor is Fireflies might be making an SST40 version (replacement for XPL-HI?) I don’t know much about the SST40. My order for an XPL-HI is on hold until they figure out the problem. A possible offer/solution is an SST40 version. (nothing concrete or confirmed at this point) Thoughts?
The SST-40 is a 5050 led where the current one is 3535. So they’d have to make a new mcpcb. That seems unlikely. If true though, it’s a nice little led. Warmest color is 6500K and it has really high output.
Yeah, SST-20 is 3535. It’s die size is closer to XPG3 than xpl at 2mm^2 so output might be closer to the Nichia version.
—
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
It might be the ROT66 v2 with the aux led board…? The SST40 question was posed to me as a possible (if it’s made) replacement for my order. I don’t know much more than that.
—
“Facts don’t care about your feelings.”
~Ben Shapiro
If their optics are barely fitting 3535 LEDs it’s unlikely they meant SST40 without some other design changes. SST20 like mentioned above would give them another LED option with high CRI and small die with output probably somewhere between xpl and 219b.
If their optics are barely fitting 3535 LEDs it’s unlikely they meant SST40 without some other design changes. SST20 like mentioned above would give them another LED option with high CRI and small die with output probably somewhere between xpl and 219b.
Good point, they’d need to change the optics as well as the mcpcb to fit SST-40.
—
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
My tube is a very specially shaped tube, it is a spherical tube in a square box
link to djozz tests
Djozz, did you calibrate yours with Maukka’s calibration lights? Btw, that’s a very creative lumen sphere.
Follow his link for the sphere builds. He built these way before Maukka was offering his lights, plus I don’t see his name on the order list.
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Click this to go to signature links. I'm still around, just not reading many new threads.
Before maukka started offering his lights, this spring I had an exchange of a couple of lights with him to check his calibration against my djozz-lumen (the djozz-lumen I found two years ago already 9% high when at TLF-meet-up re-measuring a couple of lights that were measured before in the Led Lenser sphere in Germany).
The calibration difference between maukka and me was different for a neutral 5000K 70CRI Nitecore P12 (djozz-lumen 7% higher than maukka) and for a BLF348 with 4000K 90CRI 219B V1 (djozz-lumen 11% higher than maukka). I have not found yet where the spectrum difference comes from (could be a few causes).
For the ROT66 numbers I substracted 10% from the djozz-lumen to correct for a high CRI Nichia that is a bit higher Kelvin than the BLF348 that read 11% high.
link to djozz tests
Driving me mad now, it’s reading 4600 tonight with fully charged Sony VTC5A x 3 and VTC6 × 3, down 1100 lumens on a few days back, but if I click off then go back to turbo I keep gaining 50+ lumens or so each time, the hotter it gets the brighter it gets at turn-on.
4600 at 4.20v 25c
5200 at 4.10v 40c
It doesn’t increase Lumens as it’s running though, only at turn on. My other lights aren’t doing it. My XP-L has a busted LED and the 219b seems to have output issues.
I wonder if the springs are expanding with increased heat giving reduced resistance or something. Ever so slightly loosening the tailcap reduces lumen output too.
My 4K Lumen Whore Reviews (MS18, X70, MS12, DX80, X80-GT, X45vn etc) - http://www.youtube.com/c/FLASHAHOLIC_TV
Oh yeah it sets shop alarms off from 50m away too!
(I filmed it)
I’m filming it against the Noctigon M43 219C 80CRI and the ROT66 makes the Noctigon look unbelievably green. The D4 219C 80CRI stands up ok though, whitish subjects look super accurate.
My 4K Lumen Whore Reviews (MS18, X70, MS12, DX80, X80-GT, X45vn etc) - http://www.youtube.com/c/FLASHAHOLIC_TV
Just got up, cold UK morning the ROT66 returns 4280 lumens at 4.07v, just warming the old girl up to 4600!
Weird.
My 4K Lumen Whore Reviews (MS18, X70, MS12, DX80, X80-GT, X45vn etc) - http://www.youtube.com/c/FLASHAHOLIC_TV
Vf of most LEDs has negative temperature coefficient, this means LED current will be higher as temperature increases when DD driver is used. More current means more lumens.
led4power.com
It seems to peak at around 4.10v, I let it cool and fired it up at 4.10v and it was still 5000 lumens, it was 4500 lumens at 4.20v cold
My D4S records 4400 at 4.20v and 4600 at 4.17v from cold, Is this normal?
My 4K Lumen Whore Reviews (MS18, X70, MS12, DX80, X80-GT, X45vn etc) - http://www.youtube.com/c/FLASHAHOLIC_TV
I was hoping the high CRI would reveal the Predator earlier
My 4K Lumen Whore Reviews (MS18, X70, MS12, DX80, X80-GT, X45vn etc) - http://www.youtube.com/c/FLASHAHOLIC_TV
I just received my Fireflies that I ordered on the last day of the GB. I still haven’t received the one I ordered before the GB.
Here are the results measured with the TA Lumen Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights.
Champagne host 219B 4500k 9080
4650 lumens at 0s
1482 lumens at 30s
Dims at about 17s
Black host 219B 4500k 9080
4500 lumens at 0s
3991 lumens at 30s
Edit: The champagne host was tested with fresh off the charger VTC5D and the same cells were then used on the black host so that might have accounted for some of the lumen differences at 0s.
I tested the Champagne host twice and it steps down at about 17s. It doesn’t do that on the Black host. Anyone have any idea why that is?
The tint is super nice. It’s the best looking tint I have seen to date. I was afraid it might look too magenta as some people have commented on the 4500k 9080 but I’m so glad it is not magenta at all, just some pink/rosy. Even on turbo, it’s not as rosy looking as what you see in the pics. It’s very white at the center of the beam. On the lower modes, it is just neutral white and perfect.
I compared it with all of my other lights that looked neutral tinted before and now they look ugly yellow/green.
That’s how it starts. After seeing a truly good tint, nothing else will ever look quite the same again. And now you’ve got a lifelong affliction, because unfortunately this condition is terminal.
My sympathies.
Despite I don’t agree with your perspective on lumen measurements, I enjoyed your video. The comparisons were excellent.
We won’t stop until we use purely pink lights, because any hint of green is disgusting!
Here are some tint pics I took the other day, with the ROT66 Nichia included. White balance was set at sunlight, so the 5700k Jaxman E2 will look the whitest to the camera, though it’s pretty close to what I saw with my eyes subjectively.
It’s too bad there’s no substitute for this discontinued gorgeous 9080 tint. I’m thinking if we can get the SST-20-W FA1 bin, it should look about the same as the 219b 4500k 9080 but more powerful. Also the Samsung LH351D T1 bin should be similar too but no 80+ R9.
None of you are making it any easier for me to resist this light.
I’m guessing it’s the normal variation in the uncalibrated temperature readings between different ATTiny chips. Perhaps the one light of yours reads low, and the other reads high.
For comparison, I just checked my D4, which has been sitting on my desk, turned off, in a 22° room for plenty of time to be at the ambient temperature. It reported 34°.
If the light thinks it’s warmer than it really is, it will step down faster.
Have you seen Maukka’s numbers with the 4000k variant of the LH351D using a minus 1/4th filter? They’re pretty nice.
I’ve seen lots of good things from Nichia’s E21A R9080 emitters as well.
Problem is the minus green filter takes reduces lumen output by 17-20% if I remember correctly and it makes the light look weird with the pink sheet.
E21A format is hard to use
Fireflies want me to send my broken XP-L version to Vinh or solder a new LED in. Neither options are viable.
My 4K Lumen Whore Reviews (MS18, X70, MS12, DX80, X80-GT, X45vn etc) - http://www.youtube.com/c/FLASHAHOLIC_TV
Keep testing them, mine read anywhere from 4400 to 5700 depending on heat and voltage.
There might be turbo reset issues.
My 4K Lumen Whore Reviews (MS18, X70, MS12, DX80, X80-GT, X45vn etc) - http://www.youtube.com/c/FLASHAHOLIC_TV
Maybe temperature calibrations are different? What are temperature reading? (double click from battery check)?
Like was said earlier, the thermal protection may be kicking in way too soon on the champagne model. Try manually setting the thermal limit. I’ve got a video on it if you don’t know how.
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Click this to go to signature links. I'm still around, just not reading many new threads.
Rumor is Fireflies might be making an SST40 version (replacement for XPL-HI?) I don’t know much about the SST40. My order for an XPL-HI is on hold until they figure out the problem. A possible offer/solution is an SST40 version. (nothing concrete or confirmed at this point) Thoughts?
“Facts don’t care about your feelings.”
~Ben Shapiro
SST20?
My 4K Lumen Whore Reviews (MS18, X70, MS12, DX80, X80-GT, X45vn etc) - http://www.youtube.com/c/FLASHAHOLIC_TV
The SST-40 is a 5050 led where the current one is 3535. So they’d have to make a new mcpcb. That seems unlikely. If true though, it’s a nice little led. Warmest color is 6500K and it has really high output.
Yeah, SST-20 is 3535. It’s die size is closer to XPG3 than xpl at 2mm^2 so output might be closer to the Nichia version.
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Click this to go to signature links. I'm still around, just not reading many new threads.
It might be the ROT66 v2 with the aux led board…? The SST40 question was posed to me as a possible (if it’s made) replacement for my order. I don’t know much more than that.
“Facts don’t care about your feelings.”
~Ben Shapiro
If their optics are barely fitting 3535 LEDs it’s unlikely they meant SST40 without some other design changes. SST20 like mentioned above would give them another LED option with high CRI and small die with output probably somewhere between xpl and 219b.
I think an SST-40 would definitely be brighter then an xpl-hi version. You are just limited to a 6500K color (or 7500K, but that’s not a good option).
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Click this to go to signature links. I'm still around, just not reading many new threads.
Good point, they’d need to change the optics as well as the mcpcb to fit SST-40.
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Click this to go to signature links. I'm still around, just not reading many new threads.
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