Lumintop GT4

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Hardusvd70
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Texas_Ace wrote:
Hardusvd70 wrote:
Texas_Ace wrote:
Hardusvd70 wrote:
Texas_Ace wrote:
Hardusvd70 wrote:
Measured at 9.5 meters. 4730 lux which gives 1306 meters of throw.

Not bad, what cells are you using? Are they freshly charged?


Fully charged. Tested around 30 seconds. Sony VTC6.

Ah, the 30 seconds would explain it, I generally test at 5-10 seconds. These style lights generally drop off for the first 30-60 seconds as things heat up and then stabilize the drop off. I am just too lazy to time the tests between all my lights to keep them consistent lol.


And remember 4 batteries did not make contact. I measured it now and the reading was higher this time.

yeah, that would also add to the number lol.


Two different lux meters. Better now with all Sony VTC6 batteries that draw power in the batty carrier. With 4 batteries i could only get around 4700 Lux.

Hardusvd70

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This doesn’t seem right

photo-2020-10-23-14-51-39

photo-2020-10-23-14-51-28

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yeah, that looks like the button came unsoldered. Can you find the button in the packaging? You should be able to solder it back on if so.

If not you can remove those in the short term and they should be able to send you a replacement.

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thanks TA; no i didn’t see the button anywhere

you say these little red slides can be removed? Another button fell out after playing with the light a minute and the batteries came out at different temperatures and voltages which leads me to believe that not all batteries are making contact

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Turby3Pots wrote:
thanks TA; no i didn’t see the button anywhere

you say these little red slides can be removed? Another button fell out after playing with the light a minute and the batteries came out at different temperatures and voltages which leads me to believe that not all batteries are making contact

Yeah, First mark the orientation of the top of the carrier. Then remove the hex screws from one end of the carrier and you can pull the end off and remove the center pcb’s. Then just reassemble in the same orientation it came apart.

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hell this seems better than with the red sliders actually; just slide the clear sleeves up half way and tighten the battery container tail cap down real good and it’s more firm that before

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Turby3Pots wrote:
hell this seems better than with the red sliders actually; just slide the clear sleeves up half way and tighten the battery container tail cap down real good and it’s more firm that before

Yeah, it is easier to use like this but you have to be careful since it is now possible to put a cell in backwards and short them out possibly leading to an explosion.

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Texas_Ace wrote:
Turby3Pots wrote:
hell this seems better than with the red sliders actually; just slide the clear sleeves up half way and tighten the battery container tail cap down real good and it's more firm that before
Yeah, it is easier to use like this but you have to be careful since it is now possible to put a cell in backwards and short them out possibly leading to an explosion.
I was thinking about removing the center pcb's on my GT94 because they seem to bind in the rods that they slide on. I mark my Li ion cells with little + and - signs all around the circumference of both ends the cells, because sometimes I am thinking anything else while I am inserting a cell.  

2 Cor 5:6-8

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Woo boy this thing is bright.. what’s the runtime on turbo does anyone know? At least the calculated on 3000mah batteries? Seems like 3000mah/21a*60 = 8min32seconds.. is it really that low?

Also, is there no way to set turbo at the top of the ramp?

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Turby3Pots wrote:
Woo boy this thing is bright.. what’s the runtime on turbo does anyone know? At least the calculated on 3000mah batteries?

Also, is there no way to set turbo at the top of the ramp?

I think I got around 18mins on turbo before LVP IIRC, it was in my review of the prototype.

No way to adjust the top of the ramp sadly.

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Ah, I think you are right:

4s2p would be 6000mah/21a*60=17min20seconds

Sucks about the firmware

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Texas_Ace wrote:

Yeah, it is easier to use like this but you have to be careful since it is now possible to put a cell in backwards and short them out possibly leading to an explosion.

Come on, explosion? More like outgassing and sparks/fire if immediateaction is not taken. For an explosion you need a way for pressure to build up.

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Texas_Ace
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JasonWW wrote:
Texas_Ace wrote:
Yeah, it is easier to use like this but you have to be careful since it is now possible to put a cell in backwards and short them out possibly leading to an explosion.
Come on, explosion? More like outgassing and sparks/fire if immediateaction is not taken. For an explosion you need a way for pressure to build up.

Insert said outgassing cells into sealed flashlight tube, pressure builds, something will give.

Now obviously we are not talking hand grenade here but the blowing out the lens into shards of glass is quite possible and something I would not want to be around.

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Texas_Ace wrote:
JasonWW wrote:
Texas_Ace wrote:
Yeah, it is easier to use like this but you have to be careful since it is now possible to put a cell in backwards and short them out possibly leading to an explosion.
Come on, explosion? More like outgassing and sparks/fire if immediateaction is not taken. For an explosion you need a way for pressure to build up.

Insert said outgassing cells into sealed flashlight tube, pressure builds, something will give.

Now obviously we are not talking hand grenade here but the blowing out the lens into shards of glass is quite possible and something I would not want to be around.


Ah, your thinking the person will not notice the shorted cell and then have time to install it in the flashlight and seal it up. I would think that it would be noticeable well before it’s installed.

Most of the time the pressure will escape through the switch or through the lens. Very few lights are actually sealed tight enough to build much pressure.

When you said explosion I’m picturing a bomb or grenade.

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Good cells can take ~30 seconds to start outgassing, if the last cell you insert was the one that shorted, that is plenty of time to insert the pack and put the cap on before it became noticeable.

Mostly just making people aware of the risks with removing the center PCB’s, most likely it would not happen but they need to be aware it is possible.

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Texas_Ace wrote:
Good cells can take ~30 seconds to start outgassing, if the last cell you insert was the one that shorted, that is plenty of time to insert the pack and put the cap on before it became noticeable.

Mostly just making people aware of the risks with removing the center PCB’s, most likely it would not happen but they need to be aware it is possible.


So you wouldn’t notice any sparks or smell anything burning?

I’ve never shorted a cell, so I’m curious.

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JasonWW wrote:
Texas_Ace wrote:
Good cells can take ~30 seconds to start outgassing, if the last cell you insert was the one that shorted, that is plenty of time to insert the pack and put the cap on before it became noticeable.

Mostly just making people aware of the risks with removing the center PCB’s, most likely it would not happen but they need to be aware it is possible.


So you wouldn’t notice any sparks or smell anything burning?

I’ve never shorted a cell, so I’m curious.

Depends on the situation but yeah, it is possible to short them and not notice anything for a bit afterward except the cell is getting hot.

I shorted a few for science back in the Q8 development and it was really not all that impressive for the first few seconds, I always stopped after 5-10 seconds as I didn’t want the cell to actually vent but got them pretty warn in that time.

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Texas_Ace wrote:
No way to adjust the top of the ramp sadly.

Is this one of the drivers that can be flashed with different firmware? Can i switch it to the other normal version (the toykeeper one like the astrolux lights have) ?

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Turby3Pots wrote:
Texas_Ace wrote:
No way to adjust the top of the ramp sadly.

Is this one of the drivers that can be flashed with different firmware? Can i switch it to the other normal version (the toykeeper one like the astrolux lights have) ?

Yes, it uses a normal ATtiny85 and the same firmware/setup as the GT70.

The GT4 driver even has the programming key on the bottom of the driver allowing you to flash it without removing the driver.

That said I do not know is anduril has been made for the GT70 or not.

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