Sofirn IF25 USB-C 2500lm Variable Temempeture 2700K-6500K quad led

82 posts / 0 new
Last post
Blggg
Offline
Last seen: 9 hours 43 min ago
Joined: 08/25/2018 - 07:23
Posts: 143
Location: Thailand
KyleGates wrote:
I swapped some LH351D 5000k 90cri into my IF25A successfully. I haven’t noticed any issues with turbo or otherwise.

OH, that’s nice. How is the beam? Nice, even, floody?

Serlite
Online
Last seen: 13 min 32 sec ago
Joined: 11/01/2018 - 16:14
Posts: 417
KyleGates wrote:
I swapped some LH351D 5000k 90cri into my IF25A successfully. I haven’t noticed any issues with turbo or otherwise.

Nice! Do you have any tips for reflowing a multi-emitter board like this?
I’m thinking I only want to swap out only the CW SST-20s in my IF25 for LH351Ds…though I feel like mixing beam patterns may not look so good.

jimahi
Offline
Last seen: 3 weeks 20 hours ago
Joined: 10/17/2015 - 08:25
Posts: 127
Location: Pacific NW

Angel Martínez wrote:
Please tell me how to switch between mode 1 and mode 2 (ramp).
In the manual it says that from on (on) quadruple click.

but this way I don’t change modes.

Thank you very much.

I had the same question. I clicked 4 times from on and the light flickers as if something had registered, but it was still stuck in step mode. I couldn’t figure out how to get it to switch to ramped brightness mode. I tried it about 20 times and eventually it went into ramp brightness group. Seems like the timing is VERY VERY picky! I think what I was seeing was the strobe mode flicker on click 3 and then on the 4th click it turned off strobe mode. I’m still not sure how to get it to change between the stepped and ramping brightness groups. The tint control works as advertised (click then hold to change tint) without any gotchas. Does anybody who has one have any guidance on how to change groups reliably? How fast should those 4 click be to get it to switch between groups vs going into strobe on the 3rd click? I’m afraid to try it again since it was so hard to get it into ramping brightness in the first place. Hopefully I won’t accidentally change it back to stepped brightness mode until I learn the trick.

Not sure why the heck you would design a UI with 3 clicks to strobe but 4 clicks to change ramping groups. Seems like the average user would stumble in the same trap as me of going into strobe with click 3 and click 4 just turns strobe off (instead of 4 clicks switching between groups as intended).

Thanks in advance for any help!

Serlite
Online
Last seen: 13 min 32 sec ago
Joined: 11/01/2018 - 16:14
Posts: 417

jimahi wrote:
Angel Martínez wrote:
Please tell me how to switch between mode 1 and mode 2 (ramp).
In the manual it says that from on (on) quadruple click.

but this way I don’t change modes.

Thank you very much.

I had the same question. I clicked 4 times from on and the light flickers as if something had registered, but it was still stuck in step mode. I couldn’t figure out how to get it to switch to ramped brightness mode. I tried it about 20 times and eventually it went into ramp brightness group. Seems like the timing is VERY VERY picky! I think what I was seeing was the strobe mode flicker on click 3 and then on the 4th click it turned off strobe mode. I’m still not sure how to get it to change between the stepped and ramping brightness groups. The tint control works as advertised (click then hold to change tint) without any gotchas. Does anybody who has one have any guidance on how to change groups reliably? How fast should those 4 click be to get it to switch between groups vs going into strobe on the 3rd click? I’m afraid to try it again since it was so hard to get it into ramping brightness in the first place. Hopefully I won’t accidentally change it back to stepped brightness mode until I learn the trick.

Not sure why the heck you would design a UI with 3 clicks to strobe but 4 clicks to change ramping groups. Seems like the average user would stumble in the same trap as me of going into strobe with click 3 and click 4 just turns strobe off (instead of 4 clicks switching between groups as intended).

Thanks in advance for any help!

I ran into the same difficulties with the IF25 – the first times I tried to do an electronic lockout or switch modes, I triggered the strobe and then turned it off.
Based on experimentation, it seems that a double-click can be fairly slow, a triple-click needs to be faster, and a quadruple-click needs to be very, very fast.
You seem to get the same window of time (starting from the first click) to make all the clicks – so the more clicks you need, the faster you have to be.

This definitely differs from Anduril, which I feel resets the window of time with each additional click – letting you chain clicks together even if they aren’t lightning-fast.

jimahi
Offline
Last seen: 3 weeks 20 hours ago
Joined: 10/17/2015 - 08:25
Posts: 127
Location: Pacific NW

Thanks!

Those 4 clicks were about as fast as I could go with my fingers. It will suck if this goes back into stepped mode. It will take me another hour to get it back to ramping Sad

Funtastic
Funtastic's picture
Offline
Last seen: 34 min 41 sec ago
Joined: 06/26/2014 - 02:14
Posts: 1347
Location: New Zealand

jimahi wrote:
Thanks!

Those 4 clicks were about as fast as I could go with my fingers. It will suck if this goes back into stepped mode. It will take me another hour to get it back to ramping Sad

I’ve never once had a problem myself but I’m used to multi click combos

Texas Ace Lumen Tube calibrated with maukka lights

New Zealand store – https://www.piercingthedarkness.co.nz (NZ customers only)

jimahi
Offline
Last seen: 3 weeks 20 hours ago
Joined: 10/17/2015 - 08:25
Posts: 127
Location: Pacific NW

I have many multi-click lights and have never had this problem on any of them except this one. I also have a technical background and I can usually figure things out without the manual. Maybe it could possibly be a difference in click timing between production runs that makes the one I received so frustrating.

I tried it, tried it again, then read the manual, then tried it again, and again. Not a good unboxing experience.

Bottom line – IMHO, this is not a good UI design.

And I’m not bashing Sofirn here. They make great lights. In fact, I have several other Sofirn lights and I like them. This one seems to have slipped pass the design review team (or maybe the QA team if the problem is possibly due to timing differences between production samples).

Funtastic
Funtastic's picture
Offline
Last seen: 34 min 41 sec ago
Joined: 06/26/2014 - 02:14
Posts: 1347
Location: New Zealand
jimahi wrote:
I have many multi-click lights and have never had this problem on any of them except this one. I also have a technical background and I can usually figure things out without the manual.

Have you used Anduril before? I find it much harder. 3 clicks stepped/smooth, 4x clicks for config mode and many times have had confused customers messing up settings

Texas Ace Lumen Tube calibrated with maukka lights

New Zealand store – https://www.piercingthedarkness.co.nz (NZ customers only)

thefreeman
thefreeman's picture
Online
Last seen: 13 min ago
Joined: 01/06/2020 - 09:56
Posts: 321
Location: France

I also had some issues switching mode group with my first IF25 (similarly it took me a lot of tries), with my second one, no problem, maybe they tweaked the timings.

Funtastic
Funtastic's picture
Offline
Last seen: 34 min 41 sec ago
Joined: 06/26/2014 - 02:14
Posts: 1347
Location: New Zealand
thefreeman wrote:
I also had some issues switching mode group with my first IF25 (similarly it took me a lot of tries), with my second one, no problem, maybe they tweaked the timings.

How were the click timings for the rest of the settings?

Texas Ace Lumen Tube calibrated with maukka lights

New Zealand store – https://www.piercingthedarkness.co.nz (NZ customers only)

jimahi
Offline
Last seen: 3 weeks 20 hours ago
Joined: 10/17/2015 - 08:25
Posts: 127
Location: Pacific NW

Answering Funtastic’s question: Yes, I have several Anduril lights (including the IF25A 4000K version). They can be complicated with all of the configurability, but they can be consistently navigated with the cheat sheet.

On the IF25 I have, the cheat sheet excerpt would look something like this:

3 clicks from on: Strobe
3 clicks from on (but at a different clicking pace which is not documented): You are on your way to 4 clicks
4 clicks from on: If you did 3 clicks from on at the right pace, then you will change groups. If you didn’t, then you will have experienced strobe and then turned strobe off.

Funtastic
Funtastic's picture
Offline
Last seen: 34 min 41 sec ago
Joined: 06/26/2014 - 02:14
Posts: 1347
Location: New Zealand
jimahi wrote:
Yes, I have several Anduril lights (including the IF25A 4000K version). They can be complicated with all of the configurability, but they can be consistently navigated with the cheat sheet.

I had to make this for my customers. Sofirn also requested a copy, hopefully they’ll print it and include

Texas Ace Lumen Tube calibrated with maukka lights

New Zealand store – https://www.piercingthedarkness.co.nz (NZ customers only)

KyleGates
Offline
Last seen: 50 min 32 sec ago
Joined: 08/18/2017 - 22:30
Posts: 78
Blggg wrote:
OH, that’s nice. How is the beam? Nice, even, floody?

It’s a nice even beam, more floody than the SST-20 but not overly so. I like it!

Serlite wrote:
Nice! Do you have any tips for reflowing a multi-emitter board like this?

I am not what I would call an expert at reflowing but I have had pretty good success. I’ve used two methods where I clamp the board in my helping hand. Blowing from underneath with my hot air station until the solder melts or holding my soldering iron on the bottom of the board. Once I see the solder go liquid I pluck the emitters off with some precision tweezers and place the new ones on. It’s important to make sure there is enough solder remaining on the pads of the MCPCB especially the center thermal pad or you will cook your leds. Good luck!

Funtastic
Funtastic's picture
Offline
Last seen: 34 min 41 sec ago
Joined: 06/26/2014 - 02:14
Posts: 1347
Location: New Zealand

Make sure to use solder paste when reflowing.

Easiest way to reflow

Texas Ace Lumen Tube calibrated with maukka lights

New Zealand store – https://www.piercingthedarkness.co.nz (NZ customers only)

Serlite
Online
Last seen: 13 min 32 sec ago
Joined: 11/01/2018 - 16:14
Posts: 417

Thanks for the tips, everyone! Once I muster up enough courage to mess with this light, I’ll give it a shot!
(I may end up buying a second one as a backup, juuuust so I don’t destroy my only working version of the light.)

thefreeman
thefreeman's picture
Online
Last seen: 13 min ago
Joined: 01/06/2020 - 09:56
Posts: 321
Location: France
Funtastic wrote:
thefreeman wrote:
I also had some issues switching mode group with my first IF25 (similarly it took me a lot of tries), with my second one, no problem, maybe they tweaked the timings.

How were the click timings for the rest of the settings?

No problem with the other commands.

Blggg wrote:
Please post the measurements if you swap for other leds

Here with E21As I put in my second one

Quite a bit more rosy than with the LH351Ds

roostre
Offline
Last seen: 2 hours 8 min ago
Joined: 03/09/2020 - 23:37
Posts: 163
Location: Pac. NW

I have no problems using multiple clicks on Anduril lights, but my IF25 purchased from Amazon US during the first week of November is very difficult to "quadruple click" fast enough to toggle between the "ramped" and "stepped" brightness modes (while the light is on) or to toggle between the "electronically locked out" and "electronically unlocked" modes (while the light is off).

Because of this I leave the light in ramping mode and loosen the tail cap for lockout to avoid using the "quadruple click".

The switch on my IF25 occasionally ignores single clicks (even though I hear and feel the click) and I need to click a second time and sometimes a few more times before it works. I normally press rubber switches using the pad of my thumb (to avoid damage from my fingernail) but the switch on the IF25 works more consistently when I press it with the tip of my thumb (maybe because it gets depressed further).

The IF25 is a unique light and a nice lantern with an empty white pill bottle used as a diffuser. I only wish the ramping brightness levels changed more slowly while near the moonlight level to allow for more control of the brightness level selected when you stop ramping.

How many flashlights does a "real man" need?

None, real men are not afraid of the dark.

Blggg
Offline
Last seen: 9 hours 43 min ago
Joined: 08/25/2018 - 07:23
Posts: 143
Location: Thailand
thefreeman wrote:
Funtastic wrote:
thefreeman wrote:
I also had some issues switching mode group with my first IF25 (similarly it took me a lot of tries), with my second one, no problem, maybe they tweaked the timings.

How were the click timings for the rest of the settings?

No problem with the other commands.

Blggg wrote:
Please post the measurements if you swap for other leds

Here with E21As I put in my second one

Quite a bit more rosy than with the LH351Ds

The king of rosiness.

Serlite
Online
Last seen: 13 min 32 sec ago
Joined: 11/01/2018 - 16:14
Posts: 417

Firelight2 wrote:

The light feels solid and well-built with good tint. However, apart the tint-ramping nothing about the light really stands out. Some things that could be improved:

  • Sometimes when using turbo the light forgets last used non-turbo mode and turns on in turbo.
  • […]

I was playing around with my IF25 recently and I just diagnosed this!

It seems that if you’re in turbo and you click to turn off, it’ll memorize turbo if your click is too long.
What seems to happen is that before it turns off, it ramps – just a tiny little bit, but enough to update the mode memory.
It’s hard to notice when you’re in turbo, but the same behaviour can be observed in lower levels too – just a flicker of ramping, and that’s enough to change the memorized mode.
Anduril avoids this by delaying ramping when you initially press the button, so the “off” window and the “ramp” window never overlap like this.

I guess to avoid being surprised by unexpected turbo, just make sure your clicks with this light are very sharp and quick.

roostre
Offline
Last seen: 2 hours 8 min ago
Joined: 03/09/2020 - 23:37
Posts: 163
Location: Pac. NW

Serlite wrote:

... if you're in turbo and you click to turn off, it'll memorize turbo if your click is too long.

... just make sure your clicks with this light are very sharp and quick.

 

Thanks for the tip.  I checked my IF25 and it behaves the same way.

How many flashlights does a "real man" need?

None, real men are not afraid of the dark.

Serlite
Online
Last seen: 13 min 32 sec ago
Joined: 11/01/2018 - 16:14
Posts: 417

I finally modded my IF25! Well, twice really.

I started off by just replacing the two 6500K SST-20s with 5000K LH351D emitters. And…well, I can see why mixing emitters can be a bad idea. On their own, the NW LH351Ds and the WW SST-20s looked great. But when ramping through the tint mixing, you ended up with stuff like this (the photos don’t really show just how bad it looks):

Basically, the throwier SST-20 dominated the hotspot, while the LH351D was more prominent in the spill.
So the center of the beam was warm white, while the edges were neutral white. Like CREE tint shift, but DIY!

So I pulled the light apart again, and this time put in some new 2700K LH351Ds that I got in the mail. And they fit under the optic!

Though if you look closely…you’ll see that one of the 5000K emitters looks really scratched-up on the side. That’s probably due to my carelessness – somewhere during my constant disassembly/reassembly of the light, I had probably misaligned the optic, and then forced it down by screwing the bezel in place. Eventually it settled into alignment, but not before messing up part of the LED’s dome. At the lowest mode, you can see how light filtering out of that scratched part is made bluish:

And it’s even apparent after slapping on DC-fix:

On the plus side, my glow-in-the-dark tape around the bezel looks pretty cool!

And even without DC-fix, the beam looks more even now:

However, while I couldn’t photograph it, I could see why Sofirn might’ve gone with SST-20 instead of LH351D in this light – because the LH351D is floodier, the “petals” from the optic are much more prominent at the edges, making for a weirdly-shaped beam. And some artifacts appeared in the hotspot too, so this optic is probably just an ill fit for the LH351D. Anyway, that’s why I threw on some DC-fix:

This was a lot of fun! And my first multi-emitter reflow. Thanks for all the tips people gave me along the way!
I probably won’t swap out that messed-up emitter for now, since the beam looks fine and I’m rather tired of opening this light up.

Its imperfect nature just makes it more uniquely mine, haha!

Pages