[Review] Convoy M21C-U

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Subyektiv
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I put orange peel reflector on my lantern. As expected, the transition from hotspot to side illumination became smooth, the light became more convenient at close range. At the same time, I did not notice the loss of range.

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Notmyrealname
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I have an M21C U and also a M21C and M26C. What annoys me is the gap between the bezel and the body. My bezels also came not fully tightened. On the M21C U there were a couple of small burrs in the threads which I scraped then lubed the bezel and forced it past the burrs so it is as tight as possible but still has a small (maybe .25 mm) gap as do the other two lights. If you look from the side you can see daylight between the bezel and the body. Seems something is out of spec, likely the bezels. It bothers me as as the lights seem perfect otherwise. (except for the ramping issue on M21C U), and my other lights with the same type bezel (non Convoy) are all fine.

I feel sorry for people who don't have a hobby or interest to escape to.

KevinZA1988
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Can anyone confirm if this light uses the regular C8/C8+/M21A reflector?

Acebeam L18, Armytek Prime C1 Pro, Armytek Prime C2 Pro, Armytek Tiara C1 Pro, Astrolux MF01 Mini, BLF Q8, BLF A6, BLF FW1A, BLF FW3A, BLF FW3C, BLF LT1, Convoy L6, Convoy C8+ , Convoy S3, Emisar D4, Fireflies E07, Jaxman E2L, Manta Ray C8.2 long version, Olight S1R Baton II special edition series, S2R Baton II, Olight Baton 3, Olight Warrior Mini, Olight M2R Pro Warrior.

Most of them have been modded! =)

https://photos.app.goo.gl/JaJaDv4V838AEJf39

id30209
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KevinZA1988 wrote:
Can anyone confirm if this light uses the regular C8/C8+/M21A reflector?

I have C8+ but this reflector (M21C) is bigger

WTB Titanium 4sevens 2xAA tube

KevinZA1988
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Alright thanks. I’m thinking of getting this light and swapping in a Linings SST-70. I have had very good results with that LED in my Convoy L6. Pure white, no ugly corona, good throw. Such an underrated LED!

Acebeam L18, Armytek Prime C1 Pro, Armytek Prime C2 Pro, Armytek Tiara C1 Pro, Astrolux MF01 Mini, BLF Q8, BLF A6, BLF FW1A, BLF FW3A, BLF FW3C, BLF LT1, Convoy L6, Convoy C8+ , Convoy S3, Emisar D4, Fireflies E07, Jaxman E2L, Manta Ray C8.2 long version, Olight S1R Baton II special edition series, S2R Baton II, Olight Baton 3, Olight Warrior Mini, Olight M2R Pro Warrior.

Most of them have been modded! =)

https://photos.app.goo.gl/JaJaDv4V838AEJf39

echikongen
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Subyektiv wrote:
I put orange peel reflector on my lantern. As expected, the transition from hotspot to side illumination became smooth, the light became more convenient at close range. At the same time, I did not notice the loss of range.

Maybe a stupid question but how can I insert the orange peel reflector? Do I have to remove the silver ring on the head? If yes how?
Subyektiv
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Hello.
You're right, you need to unscrew the stainless steel pressure ring located on top.
Can be unscrewed by hand counterclockwise while pressing the ring with palm. When reassembling (twisting clockwise), you need to firmly press the ring with your palm in order to firmly press the sealing rubber ring located between the silver ring and the flashlight body. Otherwise, if it is not tightly screwed, the glass may rattle.

Freedom for political prisoners in Russia!

echikongen
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Another question. After receiving my M21C-U it did not work. I contacted Convoy and they send me a new spring. After replacing the spring the flashlight works. But with 100% it steps back after roughly 5 seconds to low mode. What can cause this?

My new spring looks like this:

 

 On other reviews I saw that the spring looks like here:

 

 Why there are three different versions of springs and how can I solve my problem?

Subyektiv
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An additional wire (shunt) is placed when the spring cannot conduct the required current through itself. The shunt-free version has a spring with better electrical conductivity, Simon says. You may have a lowcurrent battery. For turbo mode, a battery with a constant current output of at least 10A is needed.

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echikongen
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Thanks for the explanation. I tested two different Samsung INR21700-40T which work perfectly fine in other flashlights. That’s why I think the spring can cause this.

zoulas
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Funny, I PM’d Simon and told him about the rattling bezel in my M26 and M21 and he said he never heard of the problem. I managed to tighten the bezel enough but I did it so hard I though I was gonna break it.

Mocarny
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zoulas wrote:
Funny, I PM’d Simon and told him about the rattling bezel in my M26 and M21 and he said he never heard of the problem. I managed to tighten the bezel enough but I did it so hard I though I was gonna break it.

I did that too, it hepled. But yeah, it is annoying. And it is rattling reflector, not bezel. You can get thicker o-ring and solve this problem (o-ring under the bezel) Smile

echikongen wrote:
Thanks for the explanation. I tested two different Samsung INR21700-40T which work perfectly fine in other flashlights. That’s why I think the spring can cause this.

Have you tried switching to 4 brightness mode? Click the side switch 6 times to do that, maybe one of your mode groups is broken.

If you struggle choosing your perfect headlamp, check my headlamp guide, I compared 15 most popular headlamps there: CLICK

echikongen
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Mocarny wrote:
Have you tried switching to 4 brightness mode? Click the side switch 6 times to do that, maybe one of your mode groups is broken.

Unfortunately same problem Sad

Subyektiv
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If you put on a thicker rubber O-ring, it will only get worse. The reflector is not pressed by the O-ring, but directly by the glass. In order for the glass to come into contact with the reflector, the glass must first strongly compress the O-ring, which is pressed against the body of the lantern around the reflector.

Freedom for political prisoners in Russia!

BrassCat
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Now in July 2021, has the ramping mode been smoothed to get an even increase & decrease in ramping? In both the M21-C-U and the M21D?

Controlling the led current by PWM, where the duty cycle control is being applied as linear, would cause this perceived problem. This does apply also in changing the volume of sound, it is a logarithmic power increase for a smooth perception
volume increase; the db scale. that is why older (I date myself) analog volume potentiometers needed a logarithmic taper.

2nd question, are the M21C-U and M21D identical except for the addition of a usb charging port?

Edited in, 3rd question. Since this is an electronic off mode, instead of electrically removing all battery voltage, what is the leakage current in the off mode, typical or maximum??

Thanks, Stan

BrassCat

Mocarny
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1 & 2: I will get my M21D soon, so I will be able to find out Smile I will let you know! And you are right about this linear problem, Simon told me it will be fixed, so we will find out.
3: You can unscrew the tailcap to physically disconnect battery. In other case I don’t know, but it should be typical.

If you struggle choosing your perfect headlamp, check my headlamp guide, I compared 15 most popular headlamps there: CLICK

BrassCat
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Thanks Mocarny, I am very close to purchase. With cmos circuits, even although leakage is very low, the will be a leakage current. It could be several microamps or just a fraction. Not knowing just how much it discharges the battery, OK I just calculated it. If the leakage is just 10 microamps, the the battery will discharge 0.08 ah in one year. Guess that is very acceptable. Battery self discharge would be more.

If the M21C-U is the M21D (has usb charge) I think I would want the M21C-U just for a sealed flashlight. Are you getting it with XHP70.2? Color temp?

BrassCat

Mocarny
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I’m getting XHP70.2 4000K – I have a 4×18A XHP70.2 5000K so I will compare the CCT of those two.

If you struggle choosing your perfect headlamp, check my headlamp guide, I compared 15 most popular headlamps there: CLICK

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