Do you destroy your flashes?...........

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Bort
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nottawhackjob wrote:
“500 degrees F is needed to loosen red Loctite through heating. So when I say “torch”, yes I mean “blowtorch”.

Heat sinking. Ok here’s a technique to help mitigate harm to areas. Take a hose clamp, like the kind on car radiator hoses. Let’s say it’s about ultimately getting the pill/head to unthread. Clamp one (or two even) around the flash head at a point obviously above where ya think (know would be great) that threads are likely red glue locked. This will have to be played with as flashes/shapes greatly vary.

Go up and down the pill length too all the while applying rotation pressure. Getting the grip point secured can be challenging butt I’m sure you’ll adapt to the situation.

Proceed to heat with the least amount possible initially. A mini butane torch will definitely hit 500 degrees at the highest apex point (tip). Heat the pill area circumference repeatedly, again with first the most conservative flame intensity and distance.

Put on your welding gloves. Start rotating. If it gives a little then freezes up again you’re on the right path. Get the flame closer and always heating the circumference as you do so.

Repeat until ya get momentum unthreading. A third hand doing the heating is appreciated. The hose clamp(s) will provide hopefully enough heat wicking away from your optic and will mitigate over heating the anodizing as well if you go slowly and incrementally increase temps. Patience and some strength. Incrementally do things becuz ya just don’t know when ya might hit the sweet spot and that’s where ya wanna be – and stay. Getting lucky doesn’t hurt either.

It’s usually better than vice grips. Shocked LOL

PS. Quality thicker hose clamps are preferable. The cheap ones can’t hold tightening pressure especially around this kind of heat. He*ll the cheap ones suck even at room temperature. LOL
PSS. One could erroneously assume that threadlocker was evenly and thoroughly applied across most of the threads when in fact it may have been only applied to a small number of threads, for example just around the base. Hence again incremental approaches. Thinking like a cost conserving manufacturer wherein red locker isn’t all that cheap they will tend to use the least amount possible and still get the job done. Afterall flashes aren’t typically assembled to withstand 500 ft.lbs of unthreading torque in the head/pill area.


You can try and keep your modified hotrod looking like a shelf queen but its not worth the effort imo.
Hell i just sold some shelf queens because they are using XM-L chips. I didn’t get half what i paid for them.

Since most of us have more lights than we strictly need if the ones that are modded don’t look mint its not an affront.

Plus if i accidentally drop a light on pavement then what, beat myself up or accept that life happens?

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i was replacing the front thrust control arms on a “dealer-serviced-only” bmw 735iL and found the tell-tale vise grip marks on the steering tie rod tubes—deep gashes with sharp burrs and rust in the cuts.

The real psser is that the tie rods have flats formed in the tube that can easily accept a 15mm wrench when making toe in adjustments.

Suppose the senior techs can’t be bothered with using the right tools for the job…

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I get it and see no reason to be a contentious issue. It’s about pride of workmanship, craftsmanship. I want my mods to turn out better in every way, not compromised by poor repair techniques. We have all pooched a project. Learn from it and move on to do better next time. I will sometimes throw it against a wall to make sure I can’t repair it! Angry

It’s not about a shelf queen or normal wear and tear. It’s about doing damage while trying to improve something. My last project here is repairing a Black Forest Cuckoo Clock with some broken effects. No room for vise grips here! I’m having enough time with tweesers.

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nottawhackjob wrote:
Butt ya gotta know firstly HOW that particular flash is put together to mitigate watt yer potential fears were.

Heh-heh. “Butt”…

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When I was a beginner I “destroyed” the looks of a flashlight when modding it. Now, I know so much more and can apply the right tools and techniques to keep them as they are, but still do the mod.

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I have seen numerous posts on BLF that Sky Lumen “cracks” open their lights in order to upgrade them. Many customers have complained that after paying for a new upgraded light , they received a light with scratches and dings on it.

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I have seen Sky Lumen lights IRL – the ones I have seen had scratches on them. But I don’t think he ever said or guaranteed that they come without any marks on them.

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voip wrote:
I have seen Sky Lumen lights IRL – the ones I have seen had scratches on them. But I don’t think he ever said or guaranteed that they come without any marks on them.

I believe he warns customers of that in his FAQ. If you send a light to him, it may come back with a bit of cosmetic damage, because his single focus is pure hotrod performance.

It’s an “I warned you” situation.

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zoulas wrote:
I have seen numerous posts on BLF that Sky Lumen “cracks” open their lights in order to upgrade them. Many customers have complained that after paying for a new upgraded light , they received a light with scratches and dings on it.

I’ve heard this too, but the two I’ve bought from him have been flawless. So it’s certainly not every light from him at least.

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Can’t even stand if the bezel is not flush with the light due to thicker MCPCB. And hate if the LED is out of focus as in my two Wuben lights (original!)

But to some the raw performance is important, and sometimes there’s no way to open a light without causing scratches (press fit bezels).

Smile, you cannot kill them all.

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“And hate if the LED is out of focus as in my two Wuben lights (original!)”…….

That’s by intentional design for certain of their zoomers. For me it’s appreciated as I’ve determined that their TIR-type or aspheric lenses are definitely tuned for it.

They obviously know what they’re doing there.

PS. On some models (all brands) the lens can be independently fine-adjusted by turning the lid in or out as desired to get further LED die focus points than watt comes from the factory. Of course if the lens is
free-floating from the factory ya can glue it yourself to the lid to get that added adjustment feature. Then use some Medium Blue Loctite to secure the lid in its threads (a little bit, don’t go nutz) at your preferred LED die adjustment point. You’ll just likely have varying degrees of gap between the lid and the head – butt some aesthetically can’t live with that though. LOL

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Whacky, that’s with their reflector lights E19 and E05. LED sits too deep, leaving a hole in the spot Facepalm .

Smile, you cannot kill them all.

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pinkpanda3310 wrote:
You’re my favourite troll author nottawhackjob. Will there be a sequel to this?

LOL! I agree Thumbs Up
he saw this:
and AssUmed I used UnPadded Facepalm vise grips

not a single modding mark on them:

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nottawhackjob
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Oh. My interpretation boo-boo. I’ve had zoomitis lately. LOL Beer

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Yeah it’s a lot safer when ya use thick quality rubbers. LOL Thumbs Up Beer

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The hammer and vice grip are the most useful tools. Matter fact, I need to purchase a bigger set of hammers. All kidding aside, I managed to take apart an entire car engine with a hammer.

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nottawhackjob wrote:
blowtorch…welding gloves

I will need to buy some of those Beer

Im sure I can figure out how to do some damage with them… Innocent

I found your rant entertaining.. thanks Thumbs Up

And I agree I should have used Heat to free the Loctite on the D25a Ti, that I failed to open.

fwiw, that light cost me $12, and it still works. One of my less expensive DeStruction $eminar Experiences.

you would probably also enjoy my $eminar on How not to use a Hot Air Station … but I will leave that for another day..

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If it works, it works and light is light. Thumbs Up

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nottawhackjob wrote:
“500 degrees F is needed to loosen red Loctite through heating. So when I say “torch”, yes I mean “blowtorch”.

.
LOL
.
Instead of a cutting torch, try a can of air, upside down, and spray the freon on the male side only. I just tried this last week and it worked.
.
Just for the record, I loved watching demolition derby on tv yrs ago.
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And also yrs ago I purchased a used car for my daughter. It would run and quit running, leaving her stranded. I did not know much back then about coil packs and ignition control modules. After working on it and getting frustrated, well, lets say it was sold for scrap. It became a demolition derby car. LOL She used her new/used Neon for yrs afterwards.
.
Sometimes guys and gals love to destroy things Evil
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CNCman wrote:
try a can of air, upside down, and spray the freon on the … I just tried this last week and it worked.

I have also had success breaking red loctite loose, by putting a light in the freezer for a couple of hours…


however, that bezel developed fine scratches from the padded tool slipping, because I only gradually tighten the vise grips incrementally.
I solved the scratches by repolishing the light with Sunshine cloth.

in another trial, I had success by putting the light in the sun for a couple of hours

I sometimes also use my reflow plate (or a cup of boiled water) to heat up a light that was glued shit (freudian typo)

but even then, I have DeStruction skillz:

fortunately I was able to replace the broken wires, and all ended well…

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Unheard wrote:
Whacky, that’s with their reflector lights E19 and E05. LED sits too deep, leaving a hole in the spot Facepalm .

Nope, that’s a sign that it’s perfectly focused.

Lookit the reflector. It only catches light that comes out of the LED at a sharp angle. Light that comes “straight out” and doesn’t touch the reflector is pure spill.

So you’re taking only a ring of light that comes out of the LED, and flinging it forward. Imagine the LED’s huge, and you need a big hole in the middle to accommodate it. So your reflector isn’t a bowl, but a curved ring. So yeah, you’re flinging a ring of light forward.

As the light diverges at greater distances, the light tends to mix and blur, and the hole disappears. But all my überthrowers have a dark spot in the middle.

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CNCman][quote=nottawhackjob wrote:
“500 degrees F is needed to loosen red Loctite through heating. So when I say “torch”, yes I mean “blowtorch”.

.
LOL

Hay don’t quote me on that one! Twas somebody above. Facepalm

Only time I could envision using a blowtorch to paraphrase Samuel L. Jackson, is when I have a pair of pliers, 2 pipe-smoking brothers, and I’m gonna get medieval on somebody’s a*s. Great movie. LOL Beer

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Lightbringer wrote:
As the light diverges at greater distances, the light tends to mix and blur, and the hole disappears.

Yes. And it doesn’t with those Wuben lights.

Let me explain: You’d want to have the reflected ‘rays’ (yes, I know) in parallel in the mean. If the LED sits too deep, the beam diverges to the outside, instead of evenly to in- and -outside. It is biased. This can be clearly seen in the profile. Also, the spot is nearly flat with a large darker area. I’ll take a picture.

Edit:

I overexaggerated, I see this myself in the profile. But I find this unpleasant.

Smile, you cannot kill them all.

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For nuts and bolts a blowtorch would easily provide the necessary 500F heating to loosen the locktite red 271, but for delicate electresticles there needs to be localized heating at the joint.

i would consider a hot air gun or hair dryer, or wrap it with some copper wick and touch that with a clean soldering iron. Most irons will heat the tip to 750F depending upon size and power. Other options include a hot plate, or if you want to get fancy make an electromagnetic induction heater.

Now i used to think that i was cool,
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was drivin' down the road to ruin. --JT

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“I have also had success breaking red loctite loose, by putting a light in the freezer for a couple of hours…”…….

Back to high temps, wrapping the object with genuine cowhide scrap (at least 1/8” thick) with rough side facing down of course, tolerates heat and vice marring clamping abuse dam well enough. Amazing stuff leather. Beer

Sometimes ya just can’t beat Udder Nature. Grad LOL

PS. I see ya used maybe suede in the top pics. Actually I see now it’s just plain finished thin leather.

“In many things in order to truly understand the small picture you have to understand the big picture first.”

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Some great tips in this thread for cracking open lights without damaging them. Keep them coming. Thumbs Up Thumbs Up Cool

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