Ordered my first ZebraLight

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BurningPlayd0h
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All my ZLs have that same feeling of the dome pushing down to meet the switch first, but the switch itself feels so good that I don’t really mind.

Unheard
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No much to see, but now I know it’s the switch. It does touch the boot. When pressing it slightly down, it clicks and stays there for some seconds, then again moves slowly upwards. Pressing it further down, there’s a second click and the light registers the signal.

Maybe a spring is broken that keeps the button under tension. The actual contact spring is ok. Hope it stays that way.

Ideas, anyone?

Smile, you cannot kill them all.

BurningPlayd0h
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Switches can have pretravel, I assume this is true of electronic microswitches as well? Considering it actually sounds to be kinda common based on this thread (the 3 Zebras I own now all have it but zero other switch issues, and I think there were some posts about it on CPF once) I’d imagine it’s just how the particular microswitch these use operates.

thefreeman
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Ah so it’s not the boot not touching the switch (I have several ZL where they don’t touch) but the switch is defective, I don’t see other option than to change it, This is what they use (or others of the same size, 250g)

Unheard
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I’ll replace it if I find a source for the switches. It doesn’t feel ok.

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Unheard
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thefreeman wrote:
Ah so it’s not the boot not touching the switch (I have several ZL where they don’t touch) but the switch is defective, I don’t see other option than to change it, This is what they use (or others of the same size, 250g)

Thanks again!

Smile, you cannot kill them all.

thefreeman
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You’re welcome, probably you’ll going to have to remove the driver from the light because replacing it from the switch opening looks difficult.

Unheard
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Yes, maybe my reflow station will do. Not yet ready to prey out the bezel (chicken Facepalm ).

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SammysHP
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It’s not the bezel or the damaged glass lens. It’s the epoxy used to glue down the PCB that might rip off some components like the inductor.

id30209
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SammysHP wrote:
It's not the bezel or the damaged glass lens. It's the epoxy used to glue down the PCB that might rip off some components like the inductor.

 

It's not epoxy but soft silicone. Use hot air gun to heat the head before removing the board and it will pop out with the silicone still in place. Smile

WTB Titanium 4sevens 2xAA tube

Unheard
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id30209 wrote:

It’s not epoxy but soft silicone. Use hot air gun to heat the head before removing the board and it will pop out with the silicone still in place. Smile


Thanks!

Have you successfully repaired yours?

Smile, you cannot kill them all.

id30209
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Unheard wrote:
id30209 wrote:

It's not epoxy but soft silicone. Use hot air gun to heat the head before removing the board and it will pop out with the silicone still in place. Smile

Thanks! Have you successfully repaired yours?

 

All of them! Thx to Loneocean’s inputs, all are working great now.

 


 

WTB Titanium 4sevens 2xAA tube

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