Review: Wurkkos TS10 w 5500K LEDs and Red Aux

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GleamBeam
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jon_slider wrote:
GleamBeam wrote:
the only issue being the aux lights
What “issue”?
Turn the aux off , put TS10 in moonlight and take a look.
mattlward
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That behavior is just on flashed file away from being fixed and getting the latest Anduril 2 features. I could not live without 3C unlock to off. The switch is a little less sensitive than it could be, but otherwise it is fantastic.

EDC rotation:
KR4, SST-20 FA3 4000k (favorite!)
FW3A, Nichia 4000k sw40 r9080 (second favorite)
FW1A, LH351D 3500k (third favorite)
FW1A, XP-L Hi 3A
FW3A, LH351D 3500k
FW3A, SST20 FD2 4000k
FW3A, Cree XP-L Hi 5A3
Emisar D4V2, SST20 4000k
Emisar D4V2, brass E21A 3500k (night light of choice)

MoreHiCRILumens
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jon_slider wrote:
GleamBeam wrote:
the only issue being the aux lights
What “issue”?

Yeah, just turn them off if you don’t need them. Red seems ok when on the highest mode, kinda like moonlight mode.

zumlin
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MoreHiCRILumens wrote:
Has anyone opened this yet? I wonder if aux-leds should be like that where two of them are kinda behind the optics, but one is more freely between?

I have, see my post on reddit

As you can see, the aux leds are fixed on the MCPCB.

roostre
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Is the design and construction of the Wurkkos TS10 somewhat similar to the Lumintop FWAA with an electrically isolated inner tube (to carry the Anduril control signal from the tail cap switch to the MCU) and if there is an inner tube can it be separated from the light's body after removing the tail cap?

Thanks

How many flashlights does a "real man" need?

None, real men are not afraid of the dark.

Firelight2
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roostre wrote:

Is the design and construction of the Wurkkos TS10 somewhat similar to the Lumintop FWAA with an electrically isolated inner tube (to carry the Anduril control signal from the tail cap switch to the MCU) and if there is an inner tube can it be separated from the light’s body after removing the tail cap?

Thanks

  • Yes there is an inner contact tube to the tailcap like in the FWAA. When I unscrew the head I can see the inner tube poking out. It appears to be free-floating as I was able to move it slightly with my finger. It popped back into position after moving it so I think there is one or more o-ring around it.
  • The tailcap on mine appears to be glued. I didn’t put much effort into trying to remove it though, so unable to tell how easy it would be to break the threadlocker. I assume the tube comes out from the back once the tailcap is unscrewed, but since there is threadlocker it is obviously harder to modify than an FWAA.
roostre
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Firelight2 wrote:

... there is an inner contact tube ...

... The tailcap on mine appears to be glued ...

... harder to modify than an FWAA.

Thanks for the information.

I have no intention of modifying the inner tube or tail cap, was just wondering if Wurkkos had developed an innovative alternative solution to carry the control signal without an inner tube.

How many flashlights does a "real man" need?

None, real men are not afraid of the dark.

jon_slider
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tail and bezel use blue loctite
.
there is an additional O ring to support the signal tube, in a groove inside the body tube

roostre
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jon_slider wrote:
... there is an additional O ring to support the signal tube, in a groove inside the body tube

Thanks for the picture.

Sounds like there are two O-rings on the inner tube, with I'm assuming one O-ring at each end of the tube, which would help ensure the inner tube stays electrically isolated from the light's body (which carries the current to the LEDs) without just relying on the anodization on these two parts.

All my recent flashlight purchases have been from AmazonUS (with easy returns for the few defective ones).

The TS10 and some other interesting lights not available on Amazon may force me to leave my comfort risk zone and place some overseas orders. Especially since none of the lights I have purchased from Amazon had readily accessible flashing pads and I would eventually like to be able to modify and update Anduril on my lights.

How many flashlights does a "real man" need?

None, real men are not afraid of the dark.

Sunnysunsun
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Anyone else notice the aux lights are on the wrong config? They’re set as button LEDs so they stay on when the main LEDs are on in mine. It’s a little hard to see but they ramp up to high as you ramp the main LEDs up.

BruisedMonkey
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Sunnysunsun wrote:
Anyone else notice the aux lights are on the wrong config? They’re set as button LEDs so they stay on when the main LEDs are on in mine. It’s a little hard to see but they ramp up to high as you ramp the main LEDs up.

Yes. It’s fixable by flashing a new version of Anduril. However, flashing the TS10 is non-trivial and there is no off-the-shelf flashing cable available.

https://www.reddit.com/r/flashlight/comments/vcn3df/wurkkos_ts10_partial...

Limsup
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Can you measure how much force it requires for the switch to click?

My FW3A requires about 300g (10.6oz) and my KR4 about 450g (15.9oz). Judging from the looks of the tail switch part in TS10, I would guess it would not be that much different from KR4.

mattlward
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I do not have a way to measure the linear force for the button, but it is much stronger than the FW3A’s and KR4/KR1’s I own.

EDC rotation:
KR4, SST-20 FA3 4000k (favorite!)
FW3A, Nichia 4000k sw40 r9080 (second favorite)
FW1A, LH351D 3500k (third favorite)
FW1A, XP-L Hi 3A
FW3A, LH351D 3500k
FW3A, SST20 FD2 4000k
FW3A, Cree XP-L Hi 5A3
Emisar D4V2, SST20 4000k
Emisar D4V2, brass E21A 3500k (night light of choice)

jon_slider
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Limsup wrote:
Can you measure how much force it requires for the switch to click?
good question

Switch pressures:

stock FWAA 10 ounces

stock TS10 24 ounces

FWAA w O ring mod 28 ounces

GleamBeam
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MoreHiCRILumens wrote:
jon_slider wrote:
GleamBeam wrote:
the only issue being the aux lights
What “issue”?

Yeah, just turn them off if you don’t need them. Red seems ok when on the highest mode, kinda like moonlight mode.

Even when turned off they come on along with the main leds..thats the issue and I dont own a flask kit thingy..
MoreHiCRILumens
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Oh that kind of bug. Good thing that it’s fixable, just takes some tinkering.
I hope Wurkkos fixes that on the later models.

jon_slider
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GleamBeam wrote:
Even when turned off they come on along with the main leds..thats the issue and I dont own a flask kit thingy..
True, requires reflashing. I unfortunately am not equipped.. I do own the flashing kit for the SP10 Pro, that gchart made, and it fits the TS10 perfectly.

However, my 2015 iMac is not compatible with all the programming software required to reflash Anduril, on Any light. I have spent many days, with the help of many people, trying to configure my iMac to reflash Anduril. All attempts failed.

So, the fact that the TS10 Aux lights come on with the main LEDs is not an easy fix for me. Plus its not a big issue for me, as I cannot see the Red LEDs when using the white ones. And, I console myself by saying a little extra red output, is a good thing Wink

otoh, I do wish Wurkkos would correct the firmware issue. I also feel that way about the SC21 Pro, which ships w Anduril 1, even though it has a chip compatible with Anduril 2.

and while Im complaining, I wish the new SP10 Pro had not received an Anduril update that enabled the blinks at mid and top ramp. Those are thankfully NOT present in the SC21 Pro. But I digress.. LOL.. no light is perfect, thats why I have so many Wink

Firelight2
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jon_slider wrote:
Limsup wrote:
Can you measure how much force it requires for the switch to click?
good question

Switch pressures:

stock FWAA 10 ounces

stock TS10 24 ounces

FWAA w O ring mod 28 ounces

I just tested mine:

  • FWAA #1 with o-ring mod: 27 oz
  • FWAA #2 with o-ring mod: 31 oz
  • Stock TS10: 24 oz

So the FWAA with o-ring mod is indeed a bit stiffer than the TS10. I haven’t tried modding the TS10 to see if an o-ring mod would help as it already seems good enough.

For comparison, my stiffest FW3A switch with 0-ring mod requires almost 6 lbs of pressure to activate … stiff enough a fully loaded BLF GT could sit on the button and it would not depress.

Limsup
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jon_slider wrote:
Limsup wrote:
Can you measure how much force it requires for the switch to click?
good question

Switch pressures:

stock FWAA 10 ounces

stock TS10 24 ounces

FWAA w O ring mod 28 ounces

Thanks for the measurements, jon_slider and Firelight2.

Here are unit conversions for members outside the US.
FWAA : 10oz (283g)
TS10 : 24oz (680g)

I guess TS10 would be similar to my D4v2 switch, which measures about 600g (21oz).

-ROYCE-
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As far as comparison to the FWAA goes, while the TS10 certainly wins easily in terms of bang for your buck, it has some issues. The bug with the aux lights going on with the main LED is annoying and I’m not building a custom rig to reflash a $20 light. The TS10 pocket clip is horrible. I can deal with a non-captive clip on a small light but the little piece of metal underneath that should help guide the top part of the clip is too short and straight and it causes the clip to be a struggle to fully seat. It has already damaged one pocket and just won’t sit properly on several others. I personally prefer the lines of the FWAA but that’s very subjective and I certainly like the look of the TS10 as well. Anyway it’s well worth the price and I’ll buy another when the fix the firmware (aux issue) even if it still has the terrible clip. I just hope someone comes out with an aftermarket clip. I suppose a deep carry one is inevitable.

jon_slider
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Here is an alternative clip

the aux lights being on when the main LEDs are on, is to me, a non-issue.. the red light is barely visible, if at all, and the power they use is tiny. If anything its a benefit, that a bit more Red spectrum output is added to the main LEDs.

for those that are bothered by the red lights, the TS10 can be reflashed using the SP10 Pro pogo adapter sold by gchart, for just $10.

Firelight2
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jon_slider wrote:
Here is an alterative clip

the aux lights being on when the main LEDs are on, is to me, a non-issue.. the red light is barely visible, if at all, and the power they use is tiny. If anything its a benefit, that a bit more Red spectrum output is added to the main LEDs.

for those that are bothered by the red lights, the TS10 can be reflashed using the SP10 Pro pogo adapter sold by gchart, for just $10.

Funny you mentioned the E05c clip. My TS10 has been wearing that clip since day 1. Incidentally, it’s also the best deep-carry clip for the Sofirn SP10 Pro.

I also agree the aux lights being on are a non-issue. Them staying on during operation doesn’t affect the beam or runtime in any noticeable way.

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The small Olight Baton II clips fit great on this light, if you like that clip. Comes up to the gap where bezel meets head, seems to fit the groove better and more snugly (and without the recurved tips), but it does leave a lot of air gap along the length. That E05c clip looks better, functionally, and deeper. The depth on the Olight clip is just a teeny bit more than the Wurkkos.

I think the aux lights staying on with the main beam certainly has to affect tint even though they aren’t focused into the optic openings like the main emitters are. I hadn’t thought about that when I ordered the ice blue…would be interesting to compare different aux color beams next to each other (or to measure them with a good measuring tool).

I’ll wait to order another in the warmer emitters until I see that they’ve configured the firmware correctly for the hardware. Small oops as they rushed this into production and the market. Great little light, though.

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Correllux wrote:

I think the aux lights staying on with the main beam certainly has to affect tint even though they aren’t focused into the optic openings like the main emitters are.

I highly doubt it has any effect on tint.

Probably far less than 1% of the total output is composed of light from the aux leds.

Since the aux leds are such a vanishingly tiny component of the beam pattern, they shouldn’t meaningfully affect the beam.

I doubt the usual sensors people on the forums use to check tint would even be able to register the difference between aux leds on or off. However, if someone has the appropriate sensors it would be VERY easy to check: No need to update the firmware… just measure with and without aux leds turned on.

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