WTB: L-shaped red led AA light EU

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dekozn
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WTB: L-shaped red led AA light EU

Preferably a Zebralight h502r but any similar red LED aa light will do. Needs to run on a single aa NiMh battery and have decent clip.
Location Europe

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1stein
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Why not replacing the Led in Sofirn HS10?

dekozn
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Cause there’s a lot more to it than just replacing the LED. A red LED is going to need a different driver and probably a different LED board too.
First I’m gonna need to order the light from china, open it up and measure the board and driver. Then search for replacement parts and order them also probably from china and put it all together again without me fucking up and hoping that the parts I ordered are working and fit. It’s gonna take ages and might not work out in the end.
I don’t of any eu based shop that sells specific fl parts.

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1stein
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Not necessarily. You can stay with the same driver. Just pick the most relevant diode as there are plenty to choose. Swapping the bare emitter is also child – easy. No need to search for another one.
Unless somebody doesn’t like easy solutions…

dekozn
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Wait there are red LEDs that can handle 3A at 3V these days without burning out and still be somewhat efficient?
I looked into it years ago and back then I needed a different driver for my skilhunt H15.

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1stein
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This should work if you’re going to replace 5050 diode.

dekozn
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Was looking into it but the HS10 doesn’t work on AA NiMh batteries.

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Quadrupel
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neo71665
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dekozn wrote:
…. I looked into it years ago and back then …..

Much has changed

dekozn
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It’s the photored and a bit out of my budget. That’s why I ‘m looking for a second hand one.

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jon_slider
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dekozn wrote:
Cause there’s a lot more to it than just replacing the LED. A red LED is going to need a different driver and probably a different LED board too.
true for lights that do not run Anduril

and btw, go for 660nm red, not 620nm, which is very orange

I put xp-e2 660nm red from kaidomain into Sofirn SP10 Pro and SC21 Pro, and both work perfectly. Also SST-20 660nm red and xp-g3 660nm, they all work w Anduril drivers.. I did not change mcpcb, and did not change driver

.

if you can figure out a headlamp that runs anduril with LH351d, you can make the LED red without even changing the mcpcb. Or you can buy the LED on an mcpcb and just swap it in, without reflowing.

Quadrupel
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dekozn wrote:
It’s the photored and a bit out of my budget. That’s why I ‘m looking for a second hand one.

Good luck to find one Wink
Funtastic
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I installed an Epiled Red 5050 into the SKilhunt H04 and it worked on Turbo only, for 1 minute until low battery warning. Kaidomain list it at 3 – 3.7v, but the Epiled datasheet says 2.4v. I use this one with Convoy’s special red 2.4v driver. I wrote one of the feedbacks on Kaidomain (jacob) as handing X amps and pairing it with a 3v driver, only to later find it was burning through a battery very quickly and reducing in output very quick.

If you use a red LED with a driver that’s too high in voltage it’ll be very insufficient and may not even work correctly, entirly depends what components are used, 7135 chips it’ll work, but it’ll drop 40% of output within 15 minutes, at that point if runs very stable until low battery.

I see there’s a Osram red on AliExpress which could work. The Vf graph from Osram shows it handling 3.2v

Piercing The Darkness YouTube channel – https://www.youtube.com/c/PiercingTheDarkness

Quadrupel
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jon_slider wrote:
dekozn wrote:
Cause there’s a lot more to it than just replacing the LED. A red LED is going to need a different driver and probably a different LED board too.
true for lights that do not run Anduril

and btw, go for 660nm red, not 620nm, which is very orange

I put xp-e2 660nm red from kaidomain into Sofirn SP10 Pro and SC21 Pro, and both work perfectly. Also SST-20 660nm red and xp-g3 660nm, they all work w Anduril drivers.. I did not change mcpcb, and did not change driver

.

if you can figure out a headlamp that runs anduril with LH351d, you can make the LED red without even changing the mcpcb. Or you can buy the LED on an mcpcb and just swap it in, without reflowing.

Its not about UI , its all about hardware.
dekozn
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I ordered the LED 1stein linked to, I’ll reflow it onto the mcpcb of my Skilhunt H15 and see what it does. It’s a 620nm , not sure if I’ll like but worth a try I guess.
@funtastic: thanks for the heads-up, now I know to test it for efficiency. KD claims working voltage to be 3v to 3.7v so should be good, the original LED was an xlm 2 if I remember correctly (swapped it out for a nichia)
What do you think of the 620nm red? Is it red enough to your taste lol?
Edit: Facepalm just noticed it’s the same LED. I’m screwed ain’t I?

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Funtastic
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It’s quite good, but of course the 660nm is better. I sell this Epiled in the Convoy L21B in my flashlight store, seems to still work really well for hunting.

Piercing The Darkness YouTube channel – https://www.youtube.com/c/PiercingTheDarkness

dekozn
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Just edited previous post while you answered. I noticed I ordered the same LED as you Facepalm
I’ll try it out see what it does, was gonna put another LED into anyway.

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Funtastic
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Yeah, it might work, but that’ll entirely depend on the driver

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buck91
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I have a Weltool red penlight with a rated 635nm LED which I like quite a bit. A little easier to see with than deep red but nowhere near orange in appearance.

jon_slider
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photo thanks to Andy Zhu:
.

Quadrupel
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dekozn wrote:
I ordered the LED 1stein linked to, I’ll reflow it onto the mcpcb of my Skilhunt H15 and see what it does. It’s a 620nm , not sure if I’ll like but worth a try I guess. @funtastic: thanks for the heads-up, now I know to test it for efficiency. KD claims working voltage to be 3v to 3.7v so should be good, the original LED was an xlm 2 if I remember correctly (swapped it out for a nichia) What do you think of the 620nm red? Is it red enough to your taste lol? Edit: Facepalm just noticed it’s the same LED. I’m screwed ain’t I?

Kaidomain is not reliable source of leds. They do not know what they are selling. All reds are max 2.5V

jon_slider
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I get my red LEDs from Kaidomain and have been very pleased

the Red LEDs work great in my Anduril lights..

they also work in my AAA twisty Maratac, and Thrunite T10T AA clicky, but those drivers do not retain the normal mode spacing that they had with white LEDs
.

this is why I recommend using Red LEDs in Anduril lights, because it does not create an issue with mode spacing.

dekozn
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Anduril is for clicky switches no? I only have the skilhunt which uses an electronic switch.

@quadrupel: thanks for the heads-up, a little late but it’s not that I wasted a whole lot of money.

@johnslider: thanks for pics. My broken zl uses a deepred so I’m guessing that would be 660nm. 620nm might be better for regular use.

I think the Skilhunt H15 uses a buck boost driver for dual chemistry (Liion and NiMh). I can test it with both chemistries but I don’t think it’ll matter much.

I tried opening up my broken zl h502r but I can only get to the switch, the bezel at led side doesn’t want to budge. Any tips are more then welcome.

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Funtastic
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dekozn wrote:
Anduril is for clicky switches no? I only have the skilhunt which uses an electronic switch.

Anduril is for an electronic switch Smile

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dekozn
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Hmmm might have look for an anduril driver. What are some good sources/shops?

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tx101
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I believe the steel bezel is pressed in, very difficult to remove without damaging the ZL.
One method I have read about is to break the lens (EEEK!!!) and pry the steel ring out from the underside. After breaking the lens you should be able to find a replacement from KD