So, what we are now discussing is a 2d mag sized single emitter host, that will happily put most 3 x xm-l lights to shame in terms of total output, and potentially, due to one emitter in one big reflector, will significantly out throw them too…….
I need to unsubscribe from this thread, its bad for my wallet, but by god am I interested. :bigsmile:
Thanks for planting this in my head, I just ordered a host, just hope customs doesn’t slap me now, at $50 its the price of a skyray king, but not working. I do however have drivers and emitters to fire it up, but I’ll be ordering that 5a driver and mt-g2 in due course. It will fit, oh yes, it will fit…
Good job I’ve cleared with toni that a good few projects for me and my step son is to teach him soldering and build something that works…I already see him ending up with a c8 upgrade set, he’s not getting this, this will just be a tutelage…
that driver we’ve been referring to as 5A might not do that much w/ the mtg2
KD says this about current:
Output current (single LED): 5A
Output current (3 or 4 XM-L LED wired in serial): 3A
I wonder if it would ‘see’ and mtg2 as 2 xm-l in series, and if it does, what the current would be. I’m gonna guess half way between 15W (1 xm-l at 5A) and 30W (3 xm-l at 3A), so about 3.7A? a measly 2400 lumen
That KD driver looks great, but I want to see how it’s going to get mounted. I hope when someone installs one of these super power drivers, you at least take some photos for the rest of us.
have you measured the inner dia. of the back of the pill, and how deep it is?
that is a pretty big driver.
I could be totally wrong with my guess - maybe that driver will ‘see’ 2 xm-l in series and send 6A. that could be bad, but probably not instant death if you have i get it set up right when testing.
if all these drivers weren’t so expensive, i’d order all 3 - but hell, the 3 together cost more than the host!
Note, the following measurements I’ve taken without the driver retension ring in place. If the ring was used to hold the driver down, you’d end up with a depth of about 15.2mm- 15.5mm
Without the ring in place, these were both measurements for the driver cavity: 22.8mm-24mm (Dia.) × 15.9mm (Depth)
I think this is the achilles heal of the light. We’re going to have to be very careful of the driver purchased for it. As an example and to give the pill some scale, I’ve taken a photo of it with the KD driver that’s ear-marked for my Trustfire TR-J12.
Yes, that one photo is the driver as installed as you can get it.
I think it will fit with the slightest trimming of the upper board and then soldering the top edge of the bottom board to the outer edge of the pill
that ought to make up the 2mm difference in height. the trickiest part might be potting (i use epoxy and alumina) and getting the wires into the through holes at the same time :Sp
hey, searching for info, i just realized intl outdoor is cheaper than KD - AND hank claims 1 cell low voltage protection
Yes Dthrckt, that link is the KD driver I have in the photo. I flipped the driver as you asked and the main board is 1.4mm to wide. I suppose it could be trimmed, but I don’t know how much that can be done. I do know some have installed this driver in the J12 and did trim them, but how much I don’t know.
hmm, sounds like that could be enough to interfere with threads
two things determine how far they can be trimmed - the closest component to the edge, and the copper ring around the edge of the board. some of that ring must remain, all the way around.
you can see the recessed sections along the edge, and that those have brass in them to connect the bottom side of the board to the top.
if those are trimmed through, the top and bottom rings can be reconnected w/ solder…which is a real PITA w/ an aluminum pill, but in this situation, with the top edge sitting on the brass lip, it wouldn’t be as bad.
the intl-outdoor custom 3.5A would be a lot easier - IF it will do 6V.
I’m going to order the driver from intl-outdoor right now.