Tom,
Is that 94k Lux with the xml2 domed or dedomed?
This forum is getting expensive 
Chris
Thank you Relic.
A how-to would be tops!
Great review and back-up info. Legend.
New #'s on my mod'ed T08. My mod'ed ZY-T08 w/XM-L2 U2 SinkPAD, Nanjg @4.2A lost a 7135 somehow - maybe it never worked day one I'm think'n. Anyway, added another 7135, with the 2 Pana PD batts, measured 4.27A now, and measured output:
lumens - 1,395 @start, 1,366 @30 secs
throw: 100 kcd (broke the 100k barrier)
I did a lot of experimenting/testing with the AW IMR, Sanyo 2600's, Panasonic PD 2900's, and Samsung INR 1500's. Those Panasonic PD's from FT are outstanding for single cell or parallel cell XM-L2/SinkPAD's. A little better are the Samsung INR's - only got 2 from FT dirt cheap (pulled from a battery pack) @1500 mah. Ordered 3 more Samsung INR's at higher capacity off of eBay, and think I'll order more Pana PD's from FT -- excellent in the 7G9 and T08, plus my single cell mod'ed XinTD, UF C8, and UF-V3. The 7G9 did 125 kcd w/the 2 Samsung INR's and 1 Pana PD -- best #'s ever. The AW IMR does well but these batteries beat it. The Sanyo 2600's were a dissapointment, couldn't compete at all. Looked like marginally better than straight Panasonic 3100 and 3400 unprotected.
Important Issue: my FT T08 has a pretty poor loose pill - loosest threading I've ever seen in a flashlight, period. I looked at it a bit closer tonight, and it seems to barely grab the host threading. When it's fully screwed in and almost tightened up, it still has a bad wobble to it. Put thermal grease on the threads, doesn't really spread - again, worse I've seen, usually a little grease spreads through all the threads. Has anyone else seen this? Wonder if just a bad unit or bad batch. I loaded up the threads now with grease, hoping it will help. Tried copper tape, but couldn't get it to hang in there.
Hmm, I didn’t notice that until I just tired it. While screwing in the pill it is quite wobbly. there is quite a bit of space there. Once it tightens down, there seems to be good contact. I also put thermal compound on the threads right away, which may be whay I didnt notice it the first few times. Mine does spread the compound around, so maybe yours is worst than mine? Since you are getting real good thermal transfer (shown in the very good thermal sag results) I am not sure the impact is significant.
Maybe run a 5 minute test and see how it drops out. I suppose some dropout could be battery sage at that duration. Probably would need to run from a power supply…
Good results! Tom E did you also dedome the led or numbers are still with dome on?
Still with the dome on - XM-L2 U2 1C, ordered way back when IS had them. Haven't done any dedoming yet, but want to experiment with XML's first. Not sure how the XM-L2's do dedomed - wonder if you get double throw like the XML's if done right. Also, the SinkPAD is soldered (reflowed) to a 3/4" 18 gauge copper disc - using a UCL/p lens that is about 1mm thinner than stock, so took advantage of the extra vertical clearance.
Really great results with domed led.
If I remember good viffer750 had 110k with dedomed xml and 3.3amps, so if output would double with xm-l2, or almost double near 200k with dedoming, this would be awesome thrower for it's price.
Tom could you share link where did you get UCL/p lens?
Oh - flashlightlens.com, but they don't have the size in UCL glass, only UCL/p which is plastic. Same exact lens I used in the HD 2010 - they are the same sizes. It's the 54.0mm or 54.87mm must be 59.0 I'm thinking..., not sure, @work right now and flashlightlens.com doesn't seem to have order history.
Update: Definitely a 59.0mm UCL/p from flashlightlens.com. It is wider than stock, it fits, but the o-ring situated below it gave me some grief because it was formed in a shape to accomodate the smaller stock one, but if you crank it down, it works. I even used the extra space to reflow a copper disc under the SinkPAD - more copper can't hurt!
Ive got a de domed IS xml2 t6 5000k and its far far to warm - basically amber. (in a c8 at 4.2 amps DD)
The u2 1c de domed should be fine though. Ive got a couple coming, I think this light is close to perfection for what I need it for!
Chris
I may have missed it, I would like to do this resistor mod:
•Emitter is under driven at 2.1A; however this somewhat matches the listed spec of 635 lumens (and easily fixed with a resistor mod)
I can’t find additional info on this. Is it the same as in ZY-T13 (.22R)?
On mine, I added R082 (0.082 Ohms) on top. This gave me 3.1A. Note that gords received his and it drove at 3+ Amps with no mod required. Check your stock amps before modding.
Also check them after the mod in case your light reacts differently than mine. I cannot explain the inconsistency between mine and gords’ light.
Got a strip of SMD resistors of 0.22 Ohm, if anyone is planning to do a resistor mod.
Give a PM and I will ship anywhere free 8)
Thanks Relic! I measured mine and it’s 2.07A.
So I plan on buying this light and have never modded anything. I would like it to be driven around 3amps. If it doesn’t measure up when I.get it would it be easier to do a resistor mod or driver swap? Again I’m a noob at modding. I plan to buy from fasttech so I assume they carry a driver for it and might have resistors. Any help with links to the right parts and links or instructions on how to go about this safely would be greatly appreciated.
I’ve been trying to resist buying this light and also trying to talk my self out of modding in fear of messing.up. But the more I hang around this place the more I want to try it…its driving me crazy lol.
Resistor mod is probably easier. Driver swap requires turning the original driver into a contact board by removing components. Fasttech carry mod resistors. they do not have 0.082 Ohm but you can add two 0.18 Ohm to get close enough.
I will note that some buyers got 3A as shipped so maybe no mod is necessary. Some kind of driver lottery I guess.
This may be the final #'s I can post on this T08 light, got a potential buyer -- it's now de-domed (XM-L2 U2 1C/SinkPAD @4.2A, running Pana PD's):
1,200 lumens at 30 secs, 210 kcd measured at 4.31 meters. It's a little beast!!
I sanded down as much as I could on the backside of the reflector to make more room for the wires - reflector seats a little better now - seemed to get a nice bump from that of 195 kcd to 210 kcd.
Here's some pics of the build:
Yes - the reflector is a littl beat up - bubble near the base from the backside sanding, fingerprint near the top, etc., but wow, it still sure works, and all that purple haze! Notice the fingers - the cause of that print...
Nice work! That T08 reflector is a real nice one. I may have to get another one to do something like this. How is the beam, nice shape, colour?
Well the beam has an off-center effect slightly. Not sure why because the emitter looks centered, but wow, that center spot is incredible, blinding on a white ceiling over your head. Just went outside with it to show my daughters - just incredible - 75 yards is lit up like daylight, and not a pencil beam at all.
Nice! Sounds good to me. Sometimes, I think the reflector is centered but maybe not perfectly straight. Not sure how that can be, but I have no other explanation for an off center beam on a well centered emitter.
maybe the reflector is not in perfect shape (different angle) in some surface. that will cause an off center beam.
My T08 still on its way to my place. I wondering how to measure tail cap current in this light? I never have any parallel light with no tailcap before.
and I also read some modded with 0.22 ohm resistor and some with 0.082 ohm. any guide or picture of where to put the resistor?
thanks a bunch before