Zoom pocket flashlight

Recently I went on a buying binge to try to find the best pocket-size zoomable flashlight. Here are my impression so far:

1. Romisen RC-C8. Purchased from Shiningbeam.com. Version purchased came with upgraded emitter and 2 modes.

  • Relatively lightweight with a small body and large head.
  • well built with no obvious problems. Worked out of the box with no issues.
  • Cost: about $20. Delivery was very fast.
  • Brightness:
    • This light comes with 2 brightness modes: high and medium. Unfortunately, they are so close together it is rather difficult to tell which mode you are in. I have to cycle the light a few times just to make sure I'm in high mode. Would be much better if the medium mode were instead an actual low mode.
    • Brightness appears about the same when using CR123, RCR123 and AW protected 16340. One of the brighter pocket zoom lights. NOTE: I have no way to measure brightness, so am comparing brightness by shining the light at the ceiling while looking at the floor. This obviously isn't very accurate.
  • Optics:
    • Flood mode produces a very wide and useful amount of light with no artifacts or rings except for a single ring outside the area of the light.
    • Spot mode focuses well and has a lot of throw. The image of the die is crisp and sharp. Overall, this light has very nice optics and produces a great beam on both flood and throw.
  • Zooming -
    • zooming on this light is awkward. It takes 3 full turns of the head to zoom from spot to flood. The head is quite stiff so it takes quite a bit of time and effort to zoom. Even worse, the body where you need to grip while zooming is quite small and has no knurling. The endcap juts out and has mild square knurling, but if you grip it while zooming it will unscrew instead of zooming the light.
    • zooming this light takes time and is a 2-handed operation. Forget trying to zoom with one-hand.
  • Tailstand - no
  • Aesthetics -
    • personal opinion only, but I think this light looks rather ugly with its copper lens ring and bright orange button. It's also rather slippery and difficult to hold.
  • Modification - I added some grey indoor stairway grip tape purchased from my local hardware store in a ring around the main body of the light. This increased grip and made zooming easier, though still harder than any of the other lights I tried
2. Sipik SK-68 grey version. Purchased from Dealextreme.
  • Solid and heavy body
  • No obvious issues with construction. Worked out of the box.
  • Cost: around $10 with slow delivery
  • Brightness: single mode. Runs quite bright on AW 14500 battery. Brightness appears about the same as the Romisen.
    • Tint isn't quite pure white.
  • Optics:
    • Very wide smooth flood and narrow perfectly focused zoom mode. Very useful in both modes with excellent throw.
    • Sliding zoom mechanism allows for very fast transition between modes.
    • Inside of the light contains a reflective cover around the die to help reflect light.
  • Aesthetics -
    • Looks very tacky in metallic silver grey with its bright orange button. In retrospect, the black one might be a better choice. I think I'd be embarassed to pull the silver one out of my pocket.
    • Has a very complex looking appearance with lots of knurling, heat sink fins and crenellation on the bezel. I'd worry that this could tear up a pocket or could damage a wood floor if dropped.
    • easy to hold and grip securely due to the knurling and heat sink fins.
    • heat sink fins seem to do a good job at whicking off heat when using 14500 batteries.
  • Tailstand: yes
  • Modifcation - sliding zoom mechanism was stiff. Easily fixed by unscrewing the bezel and then applying some silicone lubricant to the sliding mechanism.
  • Weight - relatively heavy.

3. Ultrafire 10W - purchased from either dealextreme or maybe Ebay (I forget)

  • Cost: approximately $10
  • Very small and lightweight. The thinnest of the AA sized zoom lights I've tried.
  • Shoddy construction.
    • Tailcap has a slot for an O-ring, but no ring was included. Also, the O-ring at the head of the light came partly broken and was not fully inside its slot.
    • Star was not flat, but seems to have been installed at a noticeable angle.
  • Brightness:
    • 3 mode light: High-low-stroke. Very dim when running on AA. However, this light does run fine on 14500 and produces respectable brightness. However, it is noticeably dimmer than the previous two lights.
    • Unlike the Romisen, the low mode on this light is considerably dimmer than the high mode.
  • Optics:
    • Flood mode is very ringy with lots of artifacts. Also even at max flood, the beam is still very narrow and unsuitable for close in work.
    • Push-pull flood-zoom mechanism is fast and easy to use.
    • Spot mode is fine and has a lot of throw. The image of the die is fuzzier than on the previous two lights. Overall, the spot mode on this light is useful for throw, but the flood mode is too focused to be useful.
  • Aesthetics:
    • Slimmest and lightest of all the 1xAA or CR123 zoom lights by far. Shape seems similar to some of the non-zoom fenix lights.
    • No knurling except slight knurling at tailcap. This light is fairly slippery.
    • Nice pocket size
  • Tailstand: no

3. Dorcy AAA zoom. Purchased from Dorcydirect.com

  • Cost: I forget. I think around $20.
  • Very small and lightweight as it is a AAA light. By far the smallest of the zoom lights I looked at.
  • Brightness:
    • Single mode, rated at 45 lumens.
    • light output appears incredibly dim compared to any of the other lights I looked at. This light is relatively worthless. I guess that's what I get for buying a light that's years out of date.
  • Zoom:
    • unscrew the lens to zoom out. Unfortunately, you can't actually zoom all the way out without unscrewing the bezel completely and holding it in front of the light. Unlike all the other lights I examined, this light has no stop to prevent you from unscrewing it too far.
  • Aesthetics:
    • Tacky silver metallic appearance with knurling
  • Tailstand: no
4. Lens-light mini aluminum. Purchased from lenslight.com
  • Cost: $159. Definitely not a budget light! By far the most expensive zoom light I purchased.
  • Very heavy and solid construction. Feels big and heavy enough that it should have an 18650 inside, but it runs on a CR123. The biggest of the zoom lights I purchased.
  • Brightness:
    • Emitter is a high CRI XPG R5. This is the brightest of the zoom lights. The light produced by the high CRI emitter appears slightly brown tinted compared to the white light of the others.
    • 2 modes: high and low, with mode memory. Low mode is rated at 20 lumens and high at 270 emitter lumens. Both modes ran fine on a CR123. When running on a 3.2v LifePo4 RCR123 low mode disappeared and instead became an irritating "almost high" mode. I was afraid to try 16340s in this light due to its high cost.
    • Very good smooth regulation.
  • Optics:
    • high quality glass optics. However, the inside of the star is quite visible through the lens and the interior of the bezel is black. A lot of light probably isn't going to make it out of lens.
  • Zoom:
    • Unscrew the head to zoom. Takes approximately a 3/4 turn to fully transition modes. Due to well-placed knurling this can be accomplished easily with one-hand, though it still isn't as fast as any of the push-pull zoom lights.
    • Very smooth even and bright beam in flood mode. Zoom mode shows a fuzzy image of the die.
    • Surprisingly the flood isn't as wide and the zoom isn't as narrow as that produced by the Sipik or the Romisen. Even though those lights are slightly dimmer they may actually be better for very close in work or for when you want extreme throw because of this.
    • When zooming to spot mode, the light will leave grease on the telescoped portion of the zoom mechanism. This is irritating because it's easy to put your fingers there and get grease on them. Even if you wipe the grease away, further zooming will deposit fresh grease in the same spot.
  • Aesthetics:
    • Huge and heavy
    • Too heavy for pocket carry
    • Shape and knurling are nicely placed.
    • Awful Delrin plastic clip. Wouldn't fit on my belt at all. Due to its shape unclipping it is also an awkward 2-handed operation. Even worse, the clip can only be removed by using a very tiny hex key which did not come with the light. Unforgivable in a light this expensive.
  • Tailstand - no
  • Anodized threads for tailcap lockout - no. Tailcap button protrudes and is a foward clicky. It is quite likely that if you carry this in your pocket it will accidentally turn on and you'll have a dead light.

5. EDI-T11 purchased from dealextreme.com

  • Cost: $11.80
  • Construction:
    • Medium weight and well built. This is not a small light. It's almost as big as the lens-light and is bigger than the Romisen, Ultrafire or Sipik. However, it is considerably lighter weight than the lenslight and has a clean shape.
    • Anodized tailcap threads allow tailcap lockout. However, the threads seem slightly loose and there aren't many of them. Your tailcap might fall off if you leave it in lockout mode. The light locks out unless the tailcap is fully screwed down.
  • Brightness:
    • Runs fine one CR123, RCR123 and 16340. I was pretty impressed with performance on 16340.
    • On 16340 this is easily as bright as the Sipik or Romisen, though still slightly dimmer than the lens-light
    • 3 main modes: High-low and strobe.
      • This light also has a ramping infinitely variable brightness selector, a feature not found on any of the other lights. This allows you to select a very low mode, that is much dimmer than that found on any of the other lights.
      • It is not truly programmable however, as the light tends to forget the mode you selected after you turn it off.
  • Zoom:
    • Excellent. Very wide even flood with no rings or artifacts (apart from the small ring outside the flood that all the lights except the lenslight have). This light has probably the widest flood of the lights I tried which makes it excellent for close-in work.
    • Very tight and focused zoom mode, with a clear image of the die. Probably the brighest of the zoom modes on any of the lights I tried. This light has the most throw.
    • zoom mechanism is a simple push-pull. A little stiff, but moves smoothly and cleanly and can easily be cycled with one-hand.
  • Aesthetics:
    • clean black cylinder with aggressive knurling only around the tailcap. Stainless steel bezel around the head.
    • Even though the knurling is only around tail, there is enough of it to greatly increase the grip. It's not a true substitute for having full knurling, but still feels much more secure in the hand than any of the other lights except the Sipik.
    • Rim around button is enough that even when not locked out, this light will probably not accidentally turn on in the pocket.
  • Tailstands: yes.
_______________________________
Overall impression: I think I like the EDI-T11 the best. It has the widest zoom and tighest spot and is the only light with infinitely variable brightness. I don't know how long it will last considering this was a $12 flashlight and I haven't attempted to modify it or add heatsink grease, but so far at least it seems to work fine. I also like that it seems to work flawlessly with rechargeable batteries. I was really surprised that I liked this $12 light more than I liked the $159 lens-light.

Da*n, that's why I love/hate this forum. Gotta transfer another 12 bucks into my Paypal account.

Sure glad you didn't like the the $159 a lot more

Wow, very nice reviews :D Only one thing to add: links ;)

Excellent review sir! Thanks a lot, I am also in the market for a good multimode pocket zoom flashlight. Would you be so kind as to provide links to these products please? We're not like other forums here, you won't get banned as a spammer just for posting links to a product you buy. ;-) I'm going to make this post sticky, it's a great reference.

Cheers.

Romisen RC-C6. *NOTE: In my original post I accidentally said RC-C8, which is a different light. The light I reviewed is the RC-C6
http://www.shiningbeam.com/servlet/the-162/**NEW**-Romisen-RC-dsh-C6-II/Detail
Sipik SK68
http://www.dealextreme.com/p/sipik-sk68-cree-q3-wc-120-lumen-convex-lens-led-flashlight-grey-1-aa-1-14500-39584
Ultrafire K41 * NOTE: originally listed in original post as Ultrafire 10w because that is what is written on the side of the light
http://www.dealextreme.com/p/ultrafire-k41-cree-q3-3-mode-120-lumen-convex-lens-led-flashlight-1-aa-50121
Dorcy AAA zoom (Dorcy 1AAA 45 Lumen Aluminum Focusing Flashlight 4252.
*NOTE: I purchased it on Ebay for $9.99. Shipped from Dorydirect. Here’s a link to it on Amazon:
http://www.amazon.com/Dorcy-41-4252-Focusing-Flashlight-Battery/dp/B000XTG282
LensLight mini
http://www.lens-light.com/store/products/LensLight-MINI-(1)-Cr123%3A-Handheld-EDC.html
EDI-T11
http://www.dealextreme.com/p/edi-t-t11-cree-q3-wc-3-mode-160-lumen-convex-lens-led-flashlight-black-1-123a-1-16340-50680

Greta review! I used this topic as a launchpad for my research. i am now searching for the "perfect" light for my needs.LOL. Thanks!

Nice work! You really need to add the Romisen RC-29 to this list of lights. Oh yeah...need links to them too. ;)

For people looking to buy a pocket zoom, I can recommend avoiding the Sipik SK58 and the SmallSun ZY-C84. The Sipik claims to have a Cree but actually has an overdriven Golden Dragon, which sucks horribly and fries itself. The SmallSun has a nice cree emitter, but absolutely no heatsinking whatsoever, and fries the LED if left on high for too long. There is no contact between the emitter board and body, and no way, by design, for it to get heat out of the light.

--Bushytails

+1

+2

Just got the NF-X8455 from DX yesterday. Cree (XR-E, if I’ve correctly identified the emitter), AA/14500, twist zoom, good thermal connection from emitter to body (head warms up pretty quickly on 14500 high).
Modes are high / low (25%, medium-slow PWM) / strobe without memory. Tailcap draw on high is just under 1A for both Eneloop and 14500.
http://www.dealextreme.com/p/90381

You need to add the links or pictures in the original post so people can see what you're talking about adding them in a later post doesn't work because at that point people are almost beyond caring..Interesting comparisions, need pictures ...and who in the world buys a 150$ flood to throw ??when there were 10 of the edit lights all over DX for 20$..I'm not surprised a 150$ light falls on it's face .

I got a suprise when I saw your prices!

After trying out all those zoom flashlights I've finally settled on one that I like. Only trouble was, it required a lot of modification to get it working the way I wanted it.

  • Sipik SK58 body - very nice size and shape for EDC. Good knurling. Head isn't fat. Small.
  • 2.8 amp 3-mode Shining Beam driver
  • Cree XM-L T6 emitter from Shining Beam on 16mm star.
  • Extra heatsinking added by laminating copper sheet with thermal epoxy onto inside of pill directly under the part of the pill where the star is mounted. Also added thin brass sheet around body under the telescoping head to increase heat transfer to the head.
  • Added copper strip bent around top of pill threads to prevent pill from screwing all the way into the body. This moves the emitter closer to the lens in flood mode resulting in a wider and brighter flood without affecting zoom.
  • replaced knurled tailcap with smooth one from a Sipik SK68. Looks better and feels better in the hand. Also replaced switch and switch boot with spares from Shiningbeam S-Mini.
  • Added plastic reflector from old Underwater Kinetics 2xAAA incandescent light. Reflector makes flood mode much brighter and eliminates all rings in that mode. Doesn't affect throw in spot and halfway modes. Actually makes those modes more useful because the reflector adds some rather ringy, but fairly bright, spill in those modes.
  • Added brass sheet around negative contact on driver board to increase contact with body of light.

I run this light exclusively on IMR 14500 batteries. Gets very hot when run for 3 minutes straight on high, but no malfunctions. Runtime is approximately 12 minutes on high, half an hour on medium and 2 hours on low.

At a guess, I'd estimate high flood mode to be approximately 700-800 lumens based on eyeball ceiling bounce comparisons with Yezl Z1-X and Zebralight SC600.

Constantly spamming this forum while providing links to massively overpriced items will virtually guarantee that we will never, ever, ever, ever, EVER under any circumstances buy anything from you.

Perhaps you should rethink your strategy.

Firelight2: I'm thinking of doing a very similar project to mine, but sticking with a 1.4A (the single-sided one) or 1.75A driver (three 7135s removed from a 2.8a driver, or one extra on a 1.4a board), as I don't want to be stuck with IMR cells.

I'm working on my SmallSun now, using a maglite 2xAAA reflector, for the same reasons you used one. If it's successful, as soon as I find another neutral/warm xm-l on a 16mm star, I'll work on my sk58. Got a new speed controller for my lathe, will hopefully get it back running tonight, then need to find some copper bar stock to cut a slug for the smallsun pill from...

--Bushytails

I made a couple other versions of my light. One was using the 1.4 amp 3-mode driver and a 90+CRI XPG and the SK58 body without extra heatsinking. It seems to have died though. Either the driver or LED is gone. I guess it really did need the extra heatsinking. I think I'll swap out the 1.4 amp driver to a 1.0 amp driver. If the LED is fried I'll replace it with a spare 90+ CRI xpg.

I also have a 1.4 amp 3-mode driver and neutral XPG-R4 in an Ultrafire K41 body. This one required a bit more modification than the Sipik SK58. For the Ultrafire I ended up filing the body down by hand to allow the head to retract further into the body to get a wide flood mode. Took a couple hours since I don't have a lathe, but result is fairly nice. The K41 has a hollow pill so the star's only contact is at its edges. This was clearly not enough heat sinking for 1.4 amps so I put laminated copper behind the star.

I've also tried the 2xAAA maglight reflector and it's not bad. It reflects overall less light than the old underwater kinetics lamp module's reflector so isn't as bright. On the other hand, the Mag reflector's beam is much prettier with fewer defects.

To attach the reflector I simply used Silver Arctic Alumina epoxy and epoxied it to the white plastic retaining ring that was used to hold in the original silver washer. That way the reflector stays in place, and if necessary can also be removed by using a small hook to pry out the retaining ring.

*DROOL* I'd love to get a neutral/warm XM-L on a 16 mm star. So far all I've been able to find are cool white.

only i want to add a bunch more never evers. and to rethinking your strategy, it is already implied, but you are wasting your time, and ours.

Lol ...yeah prehaps it could tear up a pocket if ya wearin cotton candy trouser's

Current stage of fixing the smallsun...

The slug is sized to be a press fit into the pill, and extend slightly into the driver space, for maximum thermal conductivity...

Unfortunately, I lack any thermal glue to attach the LED to the slug, as well as lacking the money to order some, which wouldn't be here for two weeks anyway. I thought about drilling through the star and screwing it down with thermal grease, but that seems too prone to shorting or damaging something. So project is on hold for a while now.

--Bushytails