Super Lube Dielectric grease

LED Flashlights – General Info
1

I’ve been using Super Lube Synthetic Grease (from Harbor Freight Tools) on the threads of my lights because it was recommended on here but I guess I never really read the back of the tube until tonight and it says: “Excellent Dielectric”

My question is why would I want to use (non-conductive) Dielectric grease on the part of the light where it makes the battery connection? I heard of people using different products on battery contacts to improve conductivity, so if you wouldn’t smear dielectric grease on copper/gold battery contacts, why would you want it on the aluminum connection point?

Most of my lights have anodized threads but the edge of the threaded body where the electric connection is made is not anodized. When lubing up the threads some lube will inevitably end up on the connection surfaces.

I haven’t had any problems using it but now I wonder if I’m compromising conductivity and possibly lowering current transfer.

I know there’s a million threads on this subject and I just read about 4 of them and there’s many different answers, I see other people using Super Lube Grease say there is no problem with the connectivity or current, maybe it has no Dielectric properties when there’s just a very thin coating?

If anyone recommends something else, here’s the ones I’m currently considering:

Silicone Grease? no - have it but it’s too sticky.

NYOGEL? Maybe, kind of expensive but is conductive, would like to hear any cons.

Sewing machine oil? Again maybe, would it be any different than any “Light Machine Oil” such as 3-in-1, Marvel Mystery Oil, or White Mineral Oil? I’ve read all three of these are a good substitute for sewing machine oil and that modern sewing machine oil actually IS White Mineral Oil.

2

Ive tried a few different lubricants on my torches and haven’t yet found one that restricts the current flow (that i’m able to measure) even if it is dielectric. I no longer worry about this, I think its more important to use a lubricant that will not damage the aluminium and cause rapid wear. I found this out through racing RC cars, when putting some lubs on aluminium ball links they would wear very quickly and become pitted.

3

I guess I shouldn’t worry about it. I’m still using it, I like how it lubes and prominent members here recommend it.

I just got concerned when I read on the tube about it’s dielectric properties since some of the grease will inevitably end up on the connection surfaces and the copper battery contacts.

I may try the Nyogel too.

4

I have heard it could be detrimental to silicone Orings over time. May be something to consider……

5

Have you looked at Nye’s conductive lubes? I use Nyogel 760g and it has turned a few stiff twisties into easy one-handers, plus it’s conductive and safe for nitrile o-rings. I’m not sure what the lighter o-rings turning up on a lot of Chinese lights are made of though (like the GITD examples). On those you could use silicone 0-ring lube from a dive shop if you were worried. It will also add some pleasant damping.

6

Are you sure? 768g doesn’t come up on their site.

7

Sorry: 760g. I’ll fix the original post.

8

i recommend to not using sewing machine oil.most of them are petroleum based and definitely will ruin the o-ring sooner or later…

9

No I was looking at the 760g that everyone recommends, I just looked at the Nyogel selection at lighthound and found this statement; “Note that NyoGel® 760G is not conductive, but it was designed for lubricating surfaces that are conductive”

I see they have the conductive 768g that you suggested (whoa $$$ !!!)

10

After doing some more online research on this subject I’ve come to the conclusion that the $5.99 Super Lube from HFT I’m using is suitable as an all purpose flashlight thread lubricant as well as the more expensive Nyogel 760g. Apparently the non conductive (dielectric) properties of these lubes is a non issue here.

I also found something equal to Super Lube Synthetic Grease: Tri-Flow Synthetic Grease

At only $5.99 for a 3oz. tube the Super Lube at HFT appears to be the best value.

11

It’s a little hard to tell from their descriptions, but I believe that Nyogel 760g is one of the conductive lubricants from the “Nyogel” family, but not as conductive as the anti-static greases. The whole Nyogel family of products is descibed this way:
“NyoGel® products were developed for wide-temperature applications requiring water and salt-water resistance. The 774 series consists of silica thickened synthetic hydrocarbon of various viscosities depending upon how much mechanical dampening is required of various components. The damping greases also provide good water resistance. The 756 series utilizes a silica thickened hydrocarbon that includes the incorporation of carbon black since it was designed to be electrically conductive for instrument and bearing applications.”

And 760g:
>>NYOGEL 760G
Copper Deactivator, UV Tracer
A silica thickened, medium viscosity, synthetic hydrocarbon grease for
lubrication and protection of electrical contacts.
Benefits include good water resistance.<<

They seem to be implying that some quality of the grease protects the electrical contact, which a dielectric grease wouldn’t.

Nye has another family of “electrically conductive greases” which seems to be designed to conduct static electricity:

>>Conductive grease typically serves as a ground. For example, it is applied to ball bearings in computer equipment where it allows static discharge to pass through the bearing instead of building up, arcing, and pitting the rolling element or fluting the raceway - accelerating wear. It serves a similar purpose in treadmills, where the rubber belt can generate static electricity which makes its way to the bearing. A conductive grease is also used to bleed static away from the toner cartridge toward the shell in laser printers and office copiers. A custom-formulated, fluorinated conductive grease was recently developed by Nye for automotive battery lugs, to enhance conductivity over a wide temperature range. Note: Never use conductive grease on sliding switches, which could malfunction if a conductive grease is applied to the contacts.<<

I have noticed that since I started using 760g I seem to have fewer contact problems on my lights.

12

I was also thinking conductive grease could cause a shorting a problem, if it gets between the anode and ground. Maybe not conductive enough to cause a direct short but could cause dimming?

13

Super lube crapped up the electrical contacts on my olight i3 to the point where it would always flicker unless you really jammed the head in. I switched back to silicone grease and the problem disappeared. Asides from that, super lube works fine on all my lights with unanodized threads except for my d25a2 clicky, which would also have connection problems when in group 2.

Also, I have a tube of 760g and I’m pretty sure the stuff isn’t electrically conductive; my crappy multimeter would just read an open circuit when trying to get a resistance value.

14

Yes according to Nye Lubricsants the 760g is a non conductive dielectric grease like Super Lube.

I read about someone who contacted Nye about the 760g and they replied that it is indeed a dielectric non conductive grease. Here is as data sheet from Nye that shows it has a dielectric strength value of 112 (whatever that means!): NYE NYOGEL®760G Data Sheet And it is not listed in their product line of “Conductive Greases”

So although it is dielectric they recommend using it on electrical contacts in their description.

Here’s a link to Nyogel conductive greases:
NyoGel® Electrically Conductive Greases:

The conductive 758g mentioned in one of the above posts is described as a “stiff, lithium soap thickened, light viscosity, channeling synthetic ester grease intended for demanding bearing applications”

Stiff, lithium soap thickened doesn’t sound like something that would make my threads nice and smooth but I could be wrong, and of the 3 conductive nyogel greases, 758g is the only one sold by Lighthound, (for the price of a D25lc2 mini!).

Strange that Super Lube caused a connection problem in certain lights with unanodized threads but not for most.

I think have a problem with whole subject because I have always thought of grease as something you wouldn’t want on contacts for a good electrical contact, I’m used to making sure contacts are clean and dry for best conductivity (contact cleaner). But I guess that’s why they make conductive grease, maybe an electrical engineer would have recommendations on this subject, I’m certainly not one.

So far I haven’t had any problems arise from using the Super Lube on the threads of my lights (including unanodized).

15

For high end I would go for Krytox.

+1 for Nyogel

Personally our stores carries No-ox-id a-special electrical grade if you want to take a look at that.

Here's a good nearly comprehensive thread on CPF