I been stupid in the past. Thinking, if I want max brightness I should stick to higher BIN emitters, sacrifice some in the tint and CRI department. Lights like SRK are kinda made to be WOW in terms of brightness, right? They should always be max brightness?? If upgraded, the default choice should be higher bin, right? Wrong… I have now seen the light!.. Yes, I switched on a flashlight again… 0:)
My previous modded high output light with good brightness and ok tint/CRI was a TR-3T6 with NW T6 3C and 3-18V intl-outdoor driver circuit (30W input if 3 batteries was used). That is now obsolete, not because of light output but because of this SRK…
Intl-outdoor recently got some game changing puppies in stock.
CREE XM-L2 T4 5B1 MINIMUM 80 CRI
They are lovely! :heart_eyes: Before putting some in the SRK, I had already put one in a single emitter light. I knew I was in for a treat and I had high expectations!
Btw, for those who are not familiar with my taste. I prefer 3500-4300K. The higher the CRI the better. I often do exceptions in both directions though depending on the light…
Thanks to Relic38, and his thread about modding a SRK with a fairly similar linear driver, there was hope for mine too. 
Despite that mine had quite high output when I started. Between 2,2 to 2,7 to each emitter… But… MOAR NW 80 CRI MINIMUM LUMENZZ!! J) J)
I ended up using
2x 0,12R resistors on L1 (On my particular light, this channels had lowest output before and after mod)
1x0,12R resistors on the L2
1x 0,12R resistor on L3
The resistors were added inside the green “rings”.
The resistors were shorter than the stock ones, so i used a piece of tinned wire in order to make contact. Wires was also upgraded. 22 AWG.
In order to effortlessly get the old emitters out, I just “cook” them. I let the plate heat up before I throw the pill on. Once the solder melts the emitters goes off right away. Then some time later. The mcpcbs should come off easily with tweezers. This is usually the time I re-flow the LEDs on copper, since they are already off. But usually I replace them with something nicer. 0:)
What do we have here? Some emitter porn… 
Good themal paste under the emitters, fujick on the side…
They were centered by using a flat little screwdriver through the reflector…
Screwed together so that it would dry overnight.
Put the light back together with stock insulation sheets between the reflector and mcpcb.
Now, what about emitter current after the resistor mod?
3,26A
2,85A
3,16A
(3,09 average)
I checked emitter current before (XM-L) and after (XM-L2 on copper), and the differences were small. Marginally lower after XM-L2 upgrade.
I could have gotten them closer, but as someone mentioned in another thread, having one a bit lower gives kinda gives the light a low battery voltage warning. The leds with the highest current will dim first. I have not tried it though. I was just more than pleased with having around 3A+ average on them.
Maybe ill add beamshots some time. But beamshots does not clearly show the nice tint and color rendering.
Im very pleased with this mod! Like very, very pleased… :heart_eyes:
:party:
. I have two of those 80 cri 5b emitters waiting on my desk and two 80cri 6a emitters in the mail. Also I'm waiting for the swm d40a light, not sure yet which of these two emitters are going to get in there. I am looking forward to a direct comparison with the Nichia219 
It is a Convoy M2 host, I put in this XM-L2 5B1 80 CRI emitter on a Sinkpad reflowed onto the pill, and a Qlite (revA) 3.04A driver. (The measurements are moon <<1lm 
, low 14.6lm, mid 209lm, high 752lm, out the front. Throw 12.8 klux@1meter.)