See the image below, an MT-G2 pill in Dereelight Xsearcher (65mm aspherics). I get a big ~70-75kcd hotspot driven with 12x7135s, 2x18500 (~4,4A tailcap).
Beamshots!!!
Thanks for reporting and welcome to the forum Markow. Added your measurement to the following thread's OP:
Thanks!
White-wall shots, taken about three meters away from the wall. You can see the small individual leds. Anyhow, what is actually nice is that you leave the optics slight out-of-focus to get smoother hot spot with high intensity!
Thats awesome! I love the shape of it compared to the square die’s behind aspherics!
Any outdoor shots?
Agree, thanks:) and WOW this produces a lot of light in a tight beam!
Haven’t even tried myself outdoors yet 
I’ll suppose I have some evening time to take a few in the coming week.
Love the honey comb projection, thanks for sharing!
Are you doing any other mods to the driver than stacking chips, such as controlling the voltage to the MCU?
I see, thanks!
Here we go with an outdoor shot.
First, a control shot about the near darkness…
And then, WHOO… this is what you get, when you put 2500 lumens through aspherical… BRIGHT! :bigsmile:. The trees are 90 - 160meters away.
Awesome. Looks like the focusing can still be perfected. I don’t remember any spill on my crelant aspheric.
Nice job! The trees look like they’re on fire!
Wow! That is fantastic. You got quite a beastie there. Thank you for the beam shot.
EDIT: I was just admiring that beam shot again and noticed there is a good amount of blue in the beam. Maybe it is due to the concentration of the light by the aspheric. I don't know as I don't have much knowledge of aspherics. It could, however, be due to inadequate heat sinking. I've had blue in a couple of my MT-G2 builds. In both cases, improving the heat sinking got rid of it. Getting the emitter on copper and then linking the copper well to the flashlight is what fixed up my blue beams.
Wow. You have just blinded the tree and fried whatever wild life was living in it. You have a real weapon there. Thanks for the shot.
This is the sort of thing I’d love to see as a group buy. It’s not really a mass market type of light. But I’d love one.
Great!
I think the blue hue comes from the optics, though in real life its not as visible as especially in the white wall shot 
I think premium glass lenses would be more in the range of $100+ than a few tens of dollars. Also, have to remember that the dome itself is big and dedoming would probably help too. I’ll try dedoming sometime, although it seems not to be easy. I have some ideas to try out anyhow.
About the heatsinking, which is important. Please correct me if I’m wrong, but I think the early thermal path is Ok, since the led is on copper and the copper MCPCB is actually soldered on brass pill. What would help is to have a better thermal dissipation from this “led pill neck” to aspheric head thermal radiator. This would increase the runtime on high as well as led could be driven with higher amps. Currently, its better to have a max runtime of 1 min on high. Inserting thermal grease on neck threads is probably a remarkable improvement, however, have not done that because I want to have the option to quickly change a dedomed XM-L2 or XP-G2 neck/pill without mess to have those hundreds of Cds of throw 8).
Thanks for sharing your build, impressive stuff there!
MRsDNF, you threw me on the loss of the moose! lol Like the lights in the new pic, but still miss Moosie!
Markow wrote:
Great!
I think the blue hue comes from the optics, though in real life its not as visible as especially in the white wall shot
I think premium glass lenses would be more in the range of $100+ than a few tens of dollars. Also, have to remember that the dome itself is big and dedoming would probably help too. I’ll try dedoming sometime, although it seems not to be easy. I have some ideas to try out anyhow.
About the heatsinking, which is important. Please correct me if I’m wrong, but I think the early thermal path is Ok, since the led is on copper and the copper MCPCB is actually soldered on brass pill. What would help is to have a better thermal dissipation from this “led pill neck” to aspheric head thermal radiator. This would increase the runtime on high as well as led could be driven with higher amps. Currently, its better to have a max runtime of 1 min on high. Inserting thermal grease on neck threads is probably a remarkable improvement, however, have not done that because I want to have the option to quickly change a dedomed XM-L2 or XP-G2 neck/pill without mess to have those hundreds of Cds of throw
Sounds good. Brass pills are not the best, but it's good that you reflowed the base to the pill. I hear you on the thermal grease. I really don't like using the stuff. What works way better anyway is to wrap the threads in copper tape. You will feel the difference right away. Just clean the threads real good with alcohol to get the grease out of them. I find copper taped threads work real smooth without lubrication. Try it. It's standard procedure for me.
EDIT: I forgot that you mentioned dedoming. I highly recommend it for reflector lights. It is easy using the procedure in Post 42 of the following thread:
https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/20255?page=1#comment-468912
I say easy, but you still want to be careful. It's really a mostly dedome that I currently do. I done 3 so far, all successful. It would significantly improve your throw, but I don't know if the focused beam would become ugly with the scraps of silicone that I currently don't remove. The scraps can probably be removed, but I would recommend a steady hand since the area over the diodes is 3 dimensional.
EDIT2: I disassembled light that has been subjected to high currents this weekend. The adhesive from the copper tape was hard to clean up. It also looked like the copper and aluminum were undergoing a galvanic reaction. Because of this, I am now going to use plain aluminum foil for most thread wraps. It will be a little less effective than copper transporting the heat across the threads, but seems the lesser of two evils.
Excellent, thanks! Again new things to try out
That yellow color make it look nice. I like the quality of its beamshots anyway.