This will be the first time that I’ll know just what I’m going to do to a light before it actually even get’s to my door! 
Thanks Tom!
Starting to wish I’d given them your address…
Don't get too excited - nothing is working yet - I may wind up blowing up something. Ohh - went back to look at preior posts and saw Manual Man's info and he refers to RacerR86's post on pics of another driver (TR-6 ??, forget). So this driver is really close in its layout, not exact though. Looks like the current sense resistor is in the same place though and they use an R082 while this board uses the R056. Didn't do the calc but that would explain the high amps this does stock.
Also, got a XM-L2 U2 1A/Noctigon from IOS sitting in the gas now, but looked at the plastic centering ring and the reflector... The plastic piece is way too high - it actually protrudes above the reflector base inside the reflector - that has to be a bad thing, blocking photon emissions. I'll definitely be sanding that down significantly. I was thinking bout sanding down the reflector base but it's quite thin, which is good because once this is set up, it will allow a good deal of the de-domed emitter to be in the reflector.
Also, Manual Man added copper under the star - I'll do the same thing. Got some 22 gauge 7/8" copper discs which should work out well under the Noctigon. Resulting height will be a little higher than the stock star, but thats' a good thing - ensure it's tight. I'll probably reflow the Noctigon onto the disc - not sure yet if I'll attempt to tap holes to screw it down or just use AS5 under the disc. Trade-off's: screwed down stars don't run the risk of twisting the star, cutting wires causing shorts and should have better thermal contact, but must be pretty much perfectly centered, not much play to adjust.
Ok - getting a 3.6A tailcap reading, wow. Here's the measurements:
lumens at start: 1,391, at 20secs: 1,346 at 30 secs
throw: 290 kcd (measured at 5 meters)
Came up a little short of expectations, but, my throw #'s and lumens are usually low, if anything. It could be as high as 325 kcd if measured at 15 meters, but that's speculation based on other lights rdrfronty measured at both 5 and 15 meters.
Summary of mods:
- XM-L2 U2 1A/Noctigon (from IOS), de-domed
- Noctigon reflowed onto a 18 gauge 7/8" copper disc
- copper disc and pill top sanded to 2500 grit, close to mirror finish, then AS5 used
- wires upgraded from 26 AWG to 22 AWG - where the wires are soldered on the Noctigon, they were stripped back just enough to clear the silicone from the surface to accomodate the flat reflector
- flat backside of reflector covered with wide kaptop tape
- tailcap work: removed the nylon spacer, installed the spare GITD button, and cut the inside tab of the button to better fit the button (removal of nylon spacer extended the button further out), copper braided the spring
- driver: piggybacked an R100 to the R056 bossting amps to the LED from 3.6A to 5.5A
- used DeoxIT Gold on all electrical contact surfaces for the driver mount, and tailcap PCB contact
- sanded down the plastic LED alignment piece from 2.21 mm to 1.89 mm, off the top (didn't see any measured difference though)
Interesting, when I sanded the pill top, I couldn't get to bare aluminum. I did the sanding by hand using the back end of a metal chisel and wrapping a strip of sand paper over it I've used this method many, many times, and always could cut through the anodizing, but on this light, it got smooth but stayed black! Maybe it's a really good anodizing treatment?
The finish on this light is top quality - I think it's better than a K40 or TN31.
I took pics, need to upload and post.
2 KP cells are still very tight - the driver spring I left stock, but it's a very strong spring. Think I may replace it with a softer one and copper braid it.
nice!
Wouldn’t that be 3.6a at the tail x2 for emitter current tho?
Chris
Well yes, it's 7.2A effective measured in the assembled light, but when I wired up the driver on the bench, using 2 Pana cells in series, I measured 5.5A to the LED. So, 7.2A supplied, 5.5A to the LED. This isn't so unusual - the TN31 and K40's have even higher loss's.
Thank you Tom! 
Glad to hear flashlights was received gradually. And I can see some parcels in Singapore have been processed recently. All parcels should be received soon.
And I’m also waiting anxiously for your comments…. Hurry up Swiss Post…
Darn! The 64 mm AR lens from CNQ/FFL fits this light, but, it thickness is 1.1 mm less.
Stock 2X lens: 64.75mm x 3.11 mm
The 64 mm width of the AR lens fits fine, but the thinner thickness causes the reflector to rattle and not seated properly. I tried to take light measurements anyway, but lumens measured slightly higher and throw lower - too many issues.
flashlightlens.com sells a 65 x 2.25 UCL/p - another option. I should have planned on this - I could have built up the star using thicker or more copper discs - this would have made up for the difference.
Also, not sure if it was mentioned but the Inner Diameter of the reflector is 60mm, and is very thick and hefty.
Also did a 5 minute test on high, and it warmed up nice, even down the battery tube. Nothing crazy warm.
Good work Tom, when will you be ready for mine? 
Just kidding of course, I’ll do it myself and see if I can match what you’re doing, you’ve set the bar pretty high….
Great stuff Tom - 290-325k max at 15m. That’s a seriously powerful thrower - about 1100m ANSI or 1200+ yards. Mine is at 230kcd and its impressive even there.
Couple of questions on this new light - you’ve worked on alot of makes/models:
For the $60 price tag (usual RRP $65.90), how do you rate the standard 2X for build quality and performance? I see your comment “The finish on this light is top quality - I think it’s better than a K40 or TN31.” What are your overall price/quality/performance thoughts with the stock light?
Second, given its price etc, how do you rate it as a modding option relative to other comparably priced single led lights?
Edit: I see the latest XML2-U2 Thrunite TN31 is listed as 90kcd - which makes the more basic 2X’s 98kcd stock quite good.
Hhmm, that's a lot to answer... Don't believe the 90 kcd spec -- totally false - it's really about 130 kcd 150 kcd. No idea how they rated it, but they do it wrong - it's been proven/verified/posted about several times.
This light is rather unique - class above budgets, but can't hang with the big boys - no SS bezel, no side switch or versatile UI, exc. performance though for a light in this class - blows away throwers costing twice as much in this form factor of 2 18650 cells.
Disappointments:
- holster doesn't fit well - seems not made for this light
- can't tailstand as advertised, at least on my as it came - button protrudes slightly. What's bad about this it's listed to tailstand, has the appearance/design of a tailstander, but wobbles to a point of not being able to stand upright
- I'm afraid to use the pouch it came with - metal zipper, tight fit - afraid of scratching it going in and coming out
- lumens?? - not sure here what's goin on yet...
Pros:
- it does seem like a good value for the $$$, stock, throws exceptionally well
- exc. anodizing, maybe the best I've seen
- classic form factor
- exc. heat sinking - love the heavy pill area, uni-body type construction, chunky aluminum
- good looking design
The tracking number of my SN6 from China via Vinh in the USA:
(USPS) LC128441178US
after a month mine is still sitting in singapore 
must be holiday package rush.
150kcd? That’s way intense. I guess the holster was made for SN6X-2S, guess they didn’t make a new one for SN6X-2X.
Mine is able to tailstand with the light turned on, its not super stable though cause its quite tall and the big cuts on the tail doesn’t help.
Used 550 paracord to replace the stock lanyard, got very paranoid of dropping the flashlight from my balcony :bigsmile:
"150kcd? That’s way intense" - yes, the TN31 is intense, of course mine does about 500 kcd (
). rdrfronty and others measured 150-160 kcd stock, but if you take the ThruNite spec of 840 meters and convert to kcd, it's 176 kcd.
tailstanding? - key fact is ON. I only tried it OFF - well, guess the button being in the ON position is enough to stabilize it for standing without wobbling. The tolerance here is close enough to vary from unit to unit, I suppose - it's that close. It just reminds me of so many other budget lights that seem to be so close to tailstanding, but the bulge out on the button prevents it from doing so -- after going days without electricity in Katrina, I've come to understand how important tailstanding is.
Tail standing is NEVER an issue. I say that because there’s virtually always something to stick the tail of the light into to hold it. A roll of toilet paper. A box with an X cut in it. 2 bags of beans, duct tape to a door, a table, a big book. There’s always a way. Always. And then the light isn’t getting knocked over all the time. Quart jar. Pint jar. I think you get it.
Mmm… tail standing not in issue in emergencies for us.
During the Christchurch earthquakes the lights were used heavily because we had no power for days on end - and hundreds of aftershocks. We provided house light by standing them in cups or jars etc also. The torches proved themselves mightily during those tough times.
Someone should start a BLF poll on tailstanding... I'm done - youl'll never hear about it from me again! 
Tailstanding useful for Katrina no doubt - but for quakes etc you need jars/containers for the emergency lights…
Maxtoch apear to be targetting a specific market position – producing low to medium price lights with good quality standard and high performance. It seems the 2X is right on track with this. From my testing their 2S is too. They are on doing well…
I vote "NO" to tailstanding flashlights. Id much rather go fetch a cup or something to put the light in... Thats just so much easier...
.... or maybe not...
:D
Sorry Tom, I guess some folks find it important, I have not had occasion to need it. Lucky me I reckon. It’s obvious there are times that tail standing is important for some. Seems to me to be more of a factory light, normal use kind of thing…once a light is modded to the crazy levels leaving it on it’s own is not…in my opinion…the best of ideas. 40A of cells could be disastrous if allowed to get hot unattended. Sure, low or moonlight that’s not likely to be an issue. Reckon I just have some experiences in front of me to teach me what I need that I am not aware of at the moment.
Probably ought to get some Kings, Kungs, M6’s to go with my BST in that regard. See? I knew I needed some of those for some reason…