I was thinking of that too for the programming port but there’s not enough space.
What about bare pins instead of a socket? They don't have to be full length as it only has to make good enough connection while on the bench for programming.
Instead of pins I got holes on the driver and pins for the programming cable. It will be like this:
Believe me, it’s easy to re-program. 
What programmer is needed for programming these?
It doesn't need one of those stupid SOIC clips, and can be programmed while still in the pill? :love:
I was imagining building this in a copper plumbing pipe to place in a Solarforce host. Using a copper rod for the positive post and filling the cavity with thermal resin and running a micro usb plug through the resin with the opening between the post and the body of the “P-60”. To keep the resin off of the micro usb I figured I could shape some low temp wax in the opening and then cook it out later. Is that even a remote possibility with the space available?
While discussing fantasies, how thick of copper wire spring is needed to comfortably handle 20 amps? I don’t plan on running 20 amps but a year ago I also didn’t plan on running an MTG2 or a triple XML in a P-60. Anybody know?
Yes Comfy. That’s how I’m doing it.
I don't think a permanently installed USB socket would add much to the ease of use. Just plug in the (4?) individual wires and go.
Some more pics.
Good one Comfy. That can be used for the 4 programming pins.
The male pins on those cables are usually too small to stay in/make contact with regular .025” header pin holes… they are sized to fit in the holes in solder-less breadboards. You could solder a set of normal header pins to the small pins.
I have that set from FT and the pins measure .026x.025", and .030" corner-to-corner. I imagine a coat of solder would give a tight fit, yes?
They also have a female-female version, you could just use that one and insert a standard pin.
Maybe I understood wrong, I was thinking that this could be programmed before and after assembly. I was imagining the ability to re-program the chip as the mood struck me to change it. Just plop the P-60 out and connect a plug and program away. Too fantastic or is that possible?
That's exactly what the pics show. Connections for programming are accessible from the battery side of the driver.
Very cool. Thanks, Comfychair. I can’t wait.
Comfychair, you wrote, “I use a butane soldering iron with no tip installed, it has a catalyst honeycomb thing inside that burns the butane so no flame comes out the end.”
Would you happen to have a link or name of that doo-dad? I’m starting to source parts for a winter of builds and mods.
Nitro, any updates on putting together kits? I don’t mind ordering my own, I’m just afraid I’ll order the wrong things. So links would be appreciated as well.
Thanks in advance, guys.
Sure. Kit: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000SM7IGO or torch only: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000CBIJS
Or check your local Lowe's/HD, they usually have it or a similar model on the shelf.
I can practically hear the sizzling and popping of my finger tips. Do you think one is better than the other for a noob. I’ve got great dexterity, I start IV’s on babies but this will be a new skill set. The smaller of the two looks ideal and simple.