3 or 4 of the last people I gave a flashlight too (not li-ion, aa or 2x aa) immediately pointed them at their faces and turned it on and said holy crap!
I have a stock M6 and a stock SecurityIng SRK clone, both 3 LED versions. Comparing them the M6 has more throw and a visibly smaller and brighter hot spot than the SecurityIng. Both are 5 mode w/o memory. The Securitying has the strobe and SOS as hidden modes while they are out in the open and part of the standard sequence in the M6. They can be avoided as the M6 can be turned off with a bit under 2 second continuous depression of the switch from any of the three output levels.
Both lights come on when activated at maximum output which I consider to be a very DUMB user interface arrangement.
Hope this iinfo is helpful.
Hand them a TK75, M6 RMM Mod 2 or RMM modified SRK and see if the expletive is a bit stronger! :bigsmile: Most people have no idea of how powerful high output flashlights have become. They are still using dads 2D incandescent bulb light and will until a set of leaking alkaline batteries wipes it out.
like a loaded pistol 
I handed my SRK to my friend, Charles. I explained these are not our daddies ray-o-vac…yep, two seconds later, Charlie looked into it and pulled the trigger of sorts. At least he did not drop the light.
I have shown lights to friends with a warning NOT to look into the light. Invariably, they always do. And even while swearing at the result, they’re grinning broadly in amazed awe! 
Richard - any chance of getting a convoy s3 with a triple 219b?
Not a perfect fit but I got one of these for my Fenix TK60 and find that it also is an adequate fit on the M6 if slipped on as far as possible. A very effective diffuser for the light including for tail standing during a power failure and quite inexpensive. Also an adequate fit on the TK50.
It helps to give lights only to people who already know basic gun safety, and tell them beforehand that they should treat it with much the same respect. Or, at the very least, make sure it’s clear that they should never point it at anyone. Or if you still don’t trust them to behave, point it at your hand first and blind them a bit with a reflection of the hotspot.
We discussed this a few hundred posts ago… and while RMM was willing to make one, we decided that it might not be worthwhile since it’ll only get maybe 750 lumens. You’d probably be better off doing a triple XP-G2 with three wildly different tints, which can provide both good color rendering and OMG lumens.
Per a notice received this morning my S3 5.8 amp is on the way from Richard. Really astound your friends with the output of this mini 18650 light saber. I also have a Customlites SS 18650 of almost identical size to the S3 on the way. It is only 3 amps though but still will probably get very hot due to the low thermal conductivity of the stainless steel.
I like SS and Ti lights from the cosmetic standpoint though for EDC lights as they stand up to pocket and backpack or purse wear much better than anodized aluminum ones do in my experience.
lol - I really try to keep up with this thread daily, but sometimes theres 80 new posts since I last saw it.
Makes sense…. I already have a R4 4000k s3 triple from Richard - it has a great neutral tint that is on the “pinkish” side (rather than yellow or brown).
I should try a broad spectrum version - good idea
I have offered it in the past and I will offer it again, now that I have more LEDs. The 219B doesn't take as much of a lumens hit as the older Nichias did.
A little while back, I did some figuring on what would probably work for this sort of thing:
If it helps, this is what I was thinking of doing. But I was also considering using a 4* tint instead of 5*, to make the result slightly cooler in color temperature.
BTW, if you do a wide-spectrum light, it’s probably a good idea to make it floody. This minimizes the rainbow shadows and maximizes the color vividness of the objects you light up.
Thanks for the info toy keeper
Also, I’m hoping to build a spectrometer soon, which should provide some interesting details about the difference between a Nichia 219 and a tint-mixed multi-emitter Cree light. Both look visually very nice, but I’m guessing the Nichia has a pretty smooth spectral curve while the multi-tint light probably has several spikes.
Richard, is the triple xp-g2 spacer you sell the same one you use in your builds? How solid is it (how much is hollowed out in the center, if any)?
I apologize if this has been brought up before.
The S3 EDC triple doesn't use this spacer, just the S2 and S6 (normal length) if the customer requests it. On the S3 I fill the pill with solder, sand it flat, then reflow two copper MCPCBs together for the spacer.I can't remember the exact diameter used, but it is machined from solid bar stock and the hole in the middle is enough to fit two 22 AWG silicone wires through but not much more.
Richard, Your new tax system keeps adding tax to my order (I’m not in Washington or Utah).
2 small flat rate boxes with 18650’s inside. Also got a backup proprietary Li-ion for my camera before we go on vacation. So there were 4 Samsung 25R and 8 Panasonic NCR18650B plus the camera battery. Also 3 other packages. A small 14500 sized Maxtoch in SS and an extension for my new TK61, along with some Kester soldering paste.
Why is all this important? 13 Li-ions in my mailbox, raining, and the mailman stuffed so much in there the door would’t close! The packages were wet and crushed and looking like easy pickins to everybody that drove down our road! Crazy mail carrier!
No harm though, so I guess no foul. Those little plastic boxes come in really handy in these situations…
Thanks Richard!
Clearly you're going to need a bigger mailbox so you can fit more flashlight gear in there in the future. Do I see a mailbox mod thread in the near future?