There is no light like hand made light, and I can bet that your is currently unique and probably the best because factory can not produce such lights with potted drivers etc...
Lets say that I know that police flashlight in certain countries like X country are to funny to work with so they would think they have alien equipment if you pass them your creation...
You mention I love this light.
It is zoomie... :) LOL you told me several times that you don't like them but I am glad that you changed your mind :)
Imho everybody here are suffering on spill coming from reflector light but I think opposite... Spill only spoils my night vision. and there is nothing better than pure hotspot that has sharp borders, so there is better contrast between illuminated area and dark area. The enhanced contrast lets you to perceive it brighter.
Awesome light there djozz. The beamshots say everything.
For farther distances I agree here, when trying to spot at a distance more often than not a strong sidespill from reflector adds backwash and hinders what you are actually trying to look at.
. . . I am curious about how it holds up against some superduper expensive forensics light, any ideas how that would be, anyone?
This emitter you have shown us seems like a real bargain. I'm not aware of anything of comparable quality in that price range.
Member Teej seems to be knowledgeable and uses UV for investigations. He recently purchased a light that has that great Nichia UV emitter and lists for like $350. Maybe there is some way to make comparable beam shots (same camera, settings, etc). Link should go straight to Post 113.
Your memory is too good :-) And yes, I changed my mind a bit, zoomies can be very handy, perhaps more even for the nice and even illumination when zoomed out than for the tight spot zoomed in. But for nightwalks in the woods I still very much prefer a reflector light.
I think zoomie is right choice for your UV led because you don't really need spill but hotspot only, and you control beam intensity depending on situation you use it for which can't be done with OP or SMO reflector.
I have big and bright reflector flashlight like Microfire warrior HID but I don't use them often... I just freak neighbors out with so much lumen coming out of this type of flashlight.
If you still don't have make yourself warm tint zoomie. I got to admit that I am using cheap warm tint zoomie for 70% of my lighting need, and others for hobby and fun.
This light costed me $33 for led, $11 for host, $2.40 for glass lens, I thought it was $2,50 for BLF-driver (from Rey, where is Rey?), altogether just under $50. (I did not calculate total costs before, it is not that cheap of a light when you add it all up. I sure will stop doing these sums in the future )
Hi djozz, funny finding this threadā¦I just ordered one of these emitters and am doing research on how to power it and what to put it in. As you say, I was curious and now Iām adding up the costs. Oops, maybe I got that backwards!
I to have an upcoming project with UV LZ1ās (3 of em in a TN30, thought about cheap 3535 emitters but I canāt cheap on on such a nice light). I gonna use 2 365ās and a dental blue.
I saw that this emitter has a glass dome on it, and it supposedly has an emission angle of 70Āŗā¦will it work well in a mule configuration?
Iām planning to put it in an Solarforce L2m shorty, with SS crenelated bezel and tail cap. I have one of mattausā copper shells designed for a reflector and if it needs a reflector I can do that, but Iām thinking about using one of Richards copper spacers for triples inside the copper shell to bring the emitter up to the front and use it as a mule. Itād be surrounded by loads of copper.
I have a Solarforce convex lens if it actually needs spreading out, can/will use that if necessary either with/without the copper spacer. I want to keep it cool, run it right around the 700mA range where it excels.
I think you are thinking perfectly right, I think this emitter is great for the Solarforce convex lens, which is made of glass (I used it in a zoomie right because of the 70deg emission angle). I have not tested the emitter for maximum output before doing the mod, so perhaps 700mA is on the low side and you can get much more out of it. Mind that you run it at only 3W, P60 drop-ins can normally handle a bit more.
The output level changes the radiance point, it seems to make 365nm best at 350mA and 700mA. Iām looking for that specific 365nm to cure Norland Optical Adhesive. Maybe it doesnāt matter much, just reading the pdf and looking at the charts.
I probably wonāt even see 700mA as Vf is about 4V or 4.1V at 700mA. Canāt get 1000mA as Vf is 4.45V at that point. With an 800mAh capacity 18350 cell, and a Vf of 4.2 at 800mA, well, what do you think?