Thrunite T10 Series
T10T Titanium CW - T10TCWoff
T10T Titanium NW - T10TNWoff
T10S SS CW - T10Soff
Oooh those are nice. I have the stainless steel version and like it so much that I’ll probably get the other two.
Do you know if the Ti version has a Ti clip, or at least a better clip?
Thrunite T10 Series comes with same for T10, T10S and T10T. The clip same as the photo, Thanks
What set them apart in price? Body material? Aluminium is fine with me. I would like to know more about the NW tint too. Edit : No coupon for alu version? 
I think around 3200k. Thanks
Coupon for T10S SS CW – T10Soff. Thanks
Coupon for T10T NW does not work for me :weary:
You use - T10TNWoff . Is that correct?
Yes…
We just reset the coupon module. Please try again, Thanks
I’d love to know more about the tint too. 3200K isn’t neutral white; perhaps it’s around 4200K?
The amazon listing for the T10/T10S/T10T lists “neutral white” as “3500K - 5000K” and “cool white” as “5000K - 8000K”. Those are pretty big ranges though. I hope it’s not subject to a tint lottery that wide, considering Cree XP-G2 tints are usually much narrower (like “3C tint” allows 4750K to 5000K).
I’m also very curious whether the head can be opened up at the seam without damaging anything, since it’d be great to be able to open it and replace the emitter with a Nichia 219.
Yeah, i even asked thrunite directly, no reply. Ordered a T10T cw a few days ago so will know about opening the head up soon enough.
I looked and looked online and didn’t find very specific tint info or a teardown, but I did see one interesting tidbit in a youtube video (by Chris Thorn) — supposedly the threads on the T10T are smoother than on the T10S.
Titanium threads smoother than stainless steel? What?
Titanium is notorious for having gritty thread action. I was worried that its twisty UI wouldn’t be very usable because it’s made of titanium. But, at least according to one person, it’s actually smoother. So, that’s good news. I like twisties; they’re silent. Pity that it has mode memory though.
The two-part head gives me hope that it’ll be easy to mod. Like the Spark SF5, for example, which comes with two sets of optics and directly exposes the emitter star while changing the reflector. That light would make emitter swaps trivial. I’m hoping the T10 series will be similar, though I expect it’ll be glued together pretty firmly since the twisty grip is on the front-most piece. It’ll probably need padded pliers to unscrew.
That’s good to know, pity i ordered the T10T before the group buy It's that time again... Group Buy time... this time, it's the Thrunite T10T. *Update- Minimum of 10 pieces now* but i did use the discount code supplied here.
I’ll let you know how the head comes apart when mine arrives, there’s only one light that has defeated me in that respect - the nitecore EC25 cobra.
I received my T10T today, very fast shipping from HK Equipment, thanks.
(I ordered before the GB)
I liked this light as soon as i saw it because it resembles the Jetbeam E3S in construction but the stainless steel Jetbeam, although a great light, is just a bit too heavy sometimes. The T10T is about half the weight, if not less.
I can hardly notice it clipped to my suit pocket at all.
Compared to the E3S
I decided to use a Jetbeam clip as the supplied one is short and bends easily
More comparisons of size
The lanyard hole takes a 2x6mm tritium vial nicely without modification
The only thing that bothered me was the switch - it’s a bit wobbly out of the box so i took it apart to see what could be done.
The top of the switch is dome shaped which doesn’t help with the metal buttons stabilty so i filed it down a little and epoxied a 4x0.5mm flat round magnet to the top which has helped somewhat with fit.
The pill and head are very securely glued in my model so i am going to EDC it for a while before i start messing around with that part.
The threads in the head are very smooth for titanium, there is a little play but this can be improved with a slightly larger o-ring and thicker silicone grease
I got the cool white version and i’m quite happy with the tint, for those getting the NW it may be slightly unimpressive for brightness on 1.2v/ 1.5v cells - It is brighter on a 14500, which i am testing with now.
It retains the moonlight mode which is superb.
Current Measurements:
14500 High 1.75A
14500 Med 0.50A
Eneloop High 1.45A
Eneloop Med 0.11A
Edit:
Runtime on 800mAh Protected 14500
High 44 min
Med 2hr 14 min
.
then there is no more lanyard hole left over
duh
;)
I should have mine later today. It should have been here a few days ago, but it ran into some kind of shipping delay. It got to the post office an hour from me, then just … stopped. In the end, it seems it will have taken about 90 hours to travel that last hour worth of distance.
What I ordered was a T10T NW. I’ll be comparing it to a Nichia 219 4500K 92CRI emitter, and some common Cree tints. I really hope it’s close to 4500K instead of, say, 3200K as the earlier post indicated. (if it’s that warm, I’ll be taking it apart almost immediately because warm tints make my eyes hurt)
(edit: er, maybe not, since I don’t actually have a replacement emitter yet… d’oh)
I never use lanyards
duh me then
So, it showed up. Here’s what I found, and some initial impressions:
T10T NW output levels on a fresh Eneloop:
- Moon: 0.09 lm (spec = 0.2 lm, I expected 0.18 lm)
- Med: 17.6 lm (spec = 20 lm, I expected 18.6 lm)
- High: 152 lm (spec = 169 lm, I expected 157 lm) (at start, value dropped quickly after initial burst)
My “expected” values are just the spec values multiplied by 93%, to simulate the effect of dropping one brightness bin for the warmer tint.
I don’t completely have my light box calibrated yet, so take those values with a grain of salt. Also, I was planning to measure it with a 14500 cell, but it seems that protected 14500 won’t fit and I don’t have any unprotected cells.
The tint seems like it’s probably about 5000K. It’s warmer than a XP-G2 2B emitter, warmer than a ZL SC52 or ZL H52, but colder than a L3 L10-219 (~4500K) and colder than a ZL H52Fw or H51w. It’s right between the tint of the two Nichia 219B (~5000K?) lights I made, and also fairly close to a 3C. I think the tint might be a 3D or 3A.
The body of the light is definitely bigger than necessary for a 1xAA light, but it feels really light. It’s significantly larger than a ZL SC52 but feels like about the same weight or maybe lighter (it’s actually like 2g heavier, but less dense).
The beam is a bit on the throwy side, which is less than ideal for me. I might add diffuser film to spread out the hotspot.
I think the tint might be the best Cree tint I’ve seen yet, so there’s a chance I might not try to mod it.
The switch is a reverse clicky. For this type of switch, it’s relatively difficult to half-press without accidentally doing a full press. I’m accustomed to reverse clickies with a little more travel before they go to full click.
The twisty activation works easily, but the threads have a significant amount of play so I have to rotate it at least 1/3rd of a turn (1/2 to be safe) to prevent it from flashing on when the bezel bumps something.
I see no PWM on any level. I can detect the 19 kHz PWM on my XinTD C8 V4, so if there’s any PWM on this light it must be at least twice that fast.
Overall, I like it. It could be smaller and floodier, and I wouldn’t mind having a ~3 lumen level too, and perhaps no mode memory, but overall it’s a very nice light.