Than, any convex lens 39mm diameter?
Custom build, custom lenses. A full lens MFG run. $$$
Like a group buy, that I eat the cost on, to be able to distribute.
I still have a lot of reflector versions of 1A, 3C, 5A in stock that can ship from Illinois, all able to ship in reflector form either de-domed/domed, with their stock XM-L2s, or XP-G2s, XP-L HI, XHP50, and I will even do XHP70—if you dare want to use that beast. That would be using a high-amp buck driver setup, or a 7135 driver (depending on desired amperage), running 2*18350s for the 6V LED overhead voltage, or to push a XPG2 hard with a buck driver. The buck driver/7135 driver versions are the beasts, they just do not run as long of course. All properly spaced in reflector form, and way, way better heat-sinking when I am done with them no matter which form as I drill and tap the heads. The heat moves to the fins so much faster having a “clamped MCPCB”…no thermal imaging needed, you can hold two side-by-side and feel the difference. It is simply the most heat sinking that can practically be obtained from the stock host without additional metal being added.
The aspheric versions take a lot of work. I have been making adjustments, still, to obtain the kcd numbers I am after. But closing in on home-plate. A single layer thinner than a piece of paper is the difference between proper focus, and improper focus. When dealing with lenses this size—it’s very critical to get it right.
i have always suspected that artic paste was actually an insulator compared to solder or a screwed down star. my friend told me recently that the artic paste, in non-led applications, spreads out the heat, and prevents fatal “hot spots” on circuit boards and other parts.
Good qual thermal grease is a definite help. I’d think MEM is still using something under the MCPCB, even though it’s screwed down, as I do. Probably not your typical AS5 though, for MEM. I stopped using AS5 - I use GX Extreme and Arctic MX4 now, but just based on ratings/postings. MEM is probably using something custom or not well known - not sure.
I got my long tube today I’ll be turning down the thread a bit so it fits the other tube, then I’ll need a 6 volt driver and a XHP50 or XHP70.
I know some mods have been done with these lights but I have not read every post to see which mods or what was used.
I had one of the 2 D80’s I ordered that had a weak driver in it (2.7 amps at tail at best) so I decided to see what a 17mm Standard FET with Memory driver and a XP-L HI V2 3D LED on Noctigon 20mm would do in it.
The light I modded has a spring bypass on the driver end only at the moment and it is now doing 5.2 - 5.3 amps at tailcap with a much tighter hotspot and throwing like a champ. The stock D80 with the original driver in it (the good one of the two) is doing 4.1 amps at tailcap with the tail spring bypassed.
Here are some comparison beamshots of the original and the modded one…………
Original Gate 100yds
Modded Gate 100yds
Original 175yds
Modded 175yds
Modded at 400yds (original wont make it that far)
Modded 400yds Enlarged
Original Left / Modded Right
Very, very nice, robo! 
Looks as though it will surpass 400 yards!
D80-SE v2 prototype? 
Thanks Krono.
If it will make more than 400 yards then I will need some better eyes to see it , so I am good with the 400….lol
Thank you for sharing robo, nice shots!
The D80 found a place in my coat pocket this winter. It is a great light, the lacking driver is easy to replace.
There is still stock left and I ordered my third one earlier this week.
At least one will get the XP-L HI treatment.
How did you manage with the non-standard size reflector opening/centering ring?
New guy with newbie question…
How does the BLF D80 compare with the BLF X6? Not asking beam shot comparisons, but rather where do they fit in the line up? What is the niche? What differentiates the two from each other?
Do any of you see a time where a company would consider selling just the upgraded head for something like this D80?
I mean what could be easier than screwing on a new head?
Easier than a drop in and would be great for members who do not own a soldering iron or just do not want to do a mod.
Just a thought.
Later,
Keith
This is an easy-to-ask question, maybe not so easy to answer.
- Form factor wise, they are about the same - head diameter (D80 slightly bigger), length, clicky switch design, SMO reflectors, single 18650, etc.
- drivers are different - but both have a tweaked stock driver. I've found more amps from the BLF D80 driver
- in both theory and test results, the D80 will throw better than an X6 simply because of D80's reflector I.D. is bigger - this is assuming same amps, same LED's
- The X6 seems to have superior heat sinking - more/better fining, more mass
- The X6 is easier to mod - easy retaining rings for the driver and switch
- If you like SS bezels, the D80 has one and the X6 doesn't
My measured #'s of stock BLF X6 vs. BLF D80, both on Samsung 30Q @4.21v:
- BLF D80 with 1A tint: 3.68A (tail w/clamp meter), 928 lumens @30 secs, 27.5 kcd (measured at 5m)
- BLF X6 with 'warm' tint (4C-5B): 3.20A (tail w/clamp meter), 881 lumens @30 secs, 19 kcd (measured at 5m)
X6 has 5% lower lumens, but 31% lower throw. Keep in mind a 1A should be be about 15%-20% brighter.
Head Diameters - D80: 41.6 mm. X6: 40.0 mm
Reflector Inner Diameter - D80: 34.0 mm, X6: 29.5 mm
The 15% bigger ID makes a nice improvement in throw.
I am in. 
Tom E,
Thank you very much. Even though not easy to answer, you did it great! This was very helpful - both the specific two lights and for helping me understand variables in lights.
Mr.Scott
Are your lumen measurements for comparison purposes only (relative to one another)?
If they are intended as absolute measurements, both numbers seem low when compared to other reports.
And the 19kcd for the BLF X6 seems way off. By eye, my BLF X6 throws a much tighter and more intense beam than my BLF D80. Could you have mixed up the numbers with the BLF X5?
BLF D80
BLF X6
Thanks,
I used one of these and sanded it to about half thickness……… http://www.mtnelectronics.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=25_82&product_id=174
Your references are not relative to how I understood the question - question was on the “BLF X6”, not the SS/Cu Rev 2 version - night and day. Emitters and drivers are different. Lumens is in my PVC light box – same exact design and builder as Dale’s. Our #'s have compared very close over the years with using the same light box, same meter, over many comparative lights. The SS/Cu or alum “KRONOS” X6 is a different animal in cost and function - XPL HI emitter and higher amps with our BLF FET+1 driver. The original BLF X6 was not so good in amps. Also for Dale’s D80, I’ve gotten two BLF D80’s and both performed much poorly that Dale’s in amps. Been through the ringer testing the first BLF D80, and best I could tell it was an under-achieving LED emitter. Also my lumens is quoted at 30 secs - not sure what Dale quoted. He tends to quote the instant startup reading on his hot rod lights - I’m attempting to do it the recommended way, as we all used to. These #'s were freshly taken yesterday, and have no reason to doubt them.
Edit: Hhhmm. I checked the lumens I measured back in January on the 1st D80, a 3C tint version, and it was about 1100 lumens for about the same amps measured -- I'll do some sanity checks and testing on my lumens measurements -- I'm about 175 lumens lower now. The problem with these type of group buys is we have no assurance of the LED bin used - they won't tell us, and therefore, things can change in batch production. Also I could have gotten a low performing light, or something wrong that's restricting output --- I'll double check all of it this evening. I got lights with known output I can check, then review this D80 unit specifically - might be something in the tail or the LED.
Edit #2:
Did a bunch of re-tests last night, and seems like something did go astray with the D80 measurements the first time, quoted above. Dunno, am using a different Samsung 30Q cell now, and maybe the room temperature had an effect (1st readings done a few degrees cooler at 61F), but that wouldn't explain it all. The battery is suspicious because even the tail amps is up now.
New measurements, D80 (stock 1A tint):
On a Samsung 30Q @4.21v: 4.05A measured at the tail w/clamp meter:
lumens: 1088 @start, 1037 @30 secs, throw: 31 kcd, taken at 5m (352 meters)
The BLF X6 stayed the same as the earlier readings in lumens and throw. Again, this is an original BLF X6 from the original BLF X6 group buy. There are many X6's around, some by Eagle Eye, some by Manker, and various driver/emitter combos, so several choices are available now.
Btw, the BLF D80 I ordered on Jan 26th (the one tested here) came with the long battery tube 
, so guess they've been shipping them for a while now.
Stock, this D80 can really throw for it's size!
Thanks, Tom. I missed that about the (earlier) BLF X6. 
And thanks for re-checking your measurements.
I’m sorry. I was imprecise with my original questions.
I intended to ask about the newest D80 and newest X6. I guess I should have said:
“How does the BLF LuckySun D80-SE compare with the BLF Kronos X6-SE V2?”
I also did not specify Al vs Cu, but my understanding was that the Al and CU versions of the Kronos X6-SE V2 used the same parts except for the type of metal in the host. If it makes a different in the light the I’ll pick the AL X6-SE V2 since the LuckySun D80-SE is also Al and that is more of an apples-to-apples.
Thank you for all the detailed information!