Has anyone figured out how to disassemble the end of one of these? I would like to put one of these in my wife’s light. But, the stainless part does not seem to come off.
Matt
Is the bleeder before or after D1?
Yeah the outer metal ring feels glued or something
If you are talking about a Solarforce tailcap, I don’t think it’s possible. I had a spare one that I put in my bench vise and applied copious flame. Had a small metal rod fed trough the ‘ears’ to give extra leverage. It would not budge. I gave up.
By the way, you don’t need to remove that for this to work. Just remove the hold-down collar and it all pops out.
Actually, I am talking about the red and blue Convoy S2+ lights. It looks like if the stainless part came off you could use either a 14mm or 16mm boot.
It could be set up so that it works only when dark with one transistor, an extra resistor and a phototransistor, one like a LTR-4206E, so visible light does’t turn it off, only infrared.
Food for thought. Somebody probably already suggested it, but it’s my 2¢
I thought about it, but it seemed too complicated at the time. It would be more attractive if all light shut it off instead of infrared only.
The problem with all light shutting it down would mean the Tail led might turn it off if they were too close, and it would likely just flicker.
Yeah, but most interior lighting is now either fluorescent or led…
I didn’t even think about that. I guess if you are outside for most of the day it would work. Not so much if you work in an office.
Perhaps the phototransistor could be protected from the led by a filter, so in dim light it comes on, but in a bright office it would be off.
The voltage drop across both transistors would help with the Vf though.
I do enjoy overcomplicating things, unless I’m buying them 0:)
Not much closer to figuring out why mine won’t work. A bit of testing this morning leads me to believe the top side of the PCB is making contact with the body of the tailcap, thus grounding it out. That would explain why it comes on as soon as I screw down the cap, regardless of switch on/off. I’ll try a bit of kapton tape on the switch pads to see if that helps.
What diameter is that board? And which switch is that? Can the switch tolerate 5-6amp for a single emitter with a DD driver?
I ask because there is lot of spare room around that switch! We could easily fit low voltage detection.
The omten Switches hold easy Up to all the Amp a single led direct drive will see. I guess it is the 20mm and a Stall Switch that is what Makel it Look like a log of spareroom.
I dremeled away a bit of the soldermask before putting the board in the light to make sure it will never short. Pilot dog has also moved the edge a bit on some newer revisions so that there is a gap between outer board and copper trace.
Yea, I’m guessing it’s an Omten 1288 on a 20mm board. Anyone know the resistance is on these little switches? Compared to the Omten 1217 ?
Yes, I originally had the 1217 switch on this 20mm board, but it was so wide that it would not fit. I swapped it out for the much smaller 1288. I have reduced the diameter to 19mm, so it fits inside that solarforce tailcap. I think it’s an S-12 model.
I can measure the resistance tonight, but if I remember the specs say that both can handle between 1.0 and 1.5 amps. In this particular torch, that won’t be a problem. I’m not driving the LED very hard at all.
I like the idea of cutting back the solder pads, will try that.
I always test the voltage drop on these switches with a power supply and 5A and the voltage drop is 0.1V or so depending on how I have braided the spring…
Very good switches a lot better than any of the preinstalled ones in budgetlights…
Check Djozz switchtestthread
Sadly cnqg doesn’t sell the small omtens 5-pack anymore 
My transparent caps have arrived, order went through perfect…even the tracking worked.
You mean the Omten 1288, right?
Simon has them! link 10 pack for $3.72. He also has them mounted on 17mm boards with springs.
RMM also sells them but I know international shipping would add cost.
This evening I made a red/blue led tailboard (latest 17mm version) for one of my BLF-A6 flashlights. 22kOhm in series with the red led, 12kOhm in series with the blue led. I did not install a bleeder resistor on the driver yet.
There's trouble. Mind that the bleeder R is not there yet, but without it (the blue and red led light up, not really bright and) it messes with the BLF-A6 firmware. I have to dig into it a bit more but at least the long press to go one mode backward does not work (I tried all possible delays in case the timing was off). I have two BLF-A6 (5A) lights: if the tail is moved to the other light, the trouble travels with it.
Something with a cap?
Tomorrow I try installing the bleeder resistor to see what that does.
But off time mode memory works normally?