Focusing the XHP-50 in a convoy L5 (SMO reflector)

I have a convoy L5 modded with a XHP-50, I actually modded this light some time ago. But now I wanted to improve the beam profile, you know getting rid of that ugly dark spot.
So I remembered (at least I thought I did) somewhere where somebody did the same thing by placing the reflector further over the LED.

As the title says the L5 uses a smooth reflector, yeah I know that a smooth reflector isn’t ideal for this multi-die LED’s, so focusing is going to be a challange.
At work I was able to use a lathe to modify the reflector so that is fits better over the LED, but there is still a dark spot.
I think that it is improved but only slightly.

So, is this the right way? Or am I doing this completely wrong?

A fun factor, with the reflector mounted I only have 1 mode (maybe DD?) and without the reflector the normal 3 modes :D.
I think the reflector is shorting something?

You will always get a dark spot with multi die emitters, you can use OP to ‘blend it in’ more

Yes sound like its shorting, cover the solder joints with kapton tape and you should have all modes

I have been shaving and polishing the XHP70 LED and using Hi Temp Clear to lightly OP the smooth reflectors and it works great!!! Just stipple it every so lightly! Vinh has been shaving the LED on the K60 http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?401941-K60vn-First-XHP70-Thrower&s=86056d89ef4b083e27d216347d492b52

Oops, forgot to mention that I already have some tape over the contacts.
I’ve also cut the relfector, where the wires would go, a little bit deeper so it has some clearance, though might not be enough…

I really don’t want to mess with the coating in the reflector before I’ve a reserve one.
So shaving the dome might be a solution?

Shaving the dome wouldn’t stop the short, maybe the contacts are poking through the tape when you tighten the bezel, put another layer of tape on and see if that works

I meant that shaving the dome might help with the dark spot? :smiley:

Will try that, thnx.

[quote=James3]
Shaving the dome wouldn’t stop the short.
Really? No kidding? Learn something everyday thanks James!

Yeah I didn’t read that right… Working 12 hour shifts starting at 4am messes with you a bit… The shaved Dome won’t eliminate the dark spot but may help due to focusing the hotspot

:bigsmile: :bigsmile:
I’ll look if I’ve a razor or sharp knife that is capable of cutting the dome. Otherwise I’ll leave it as it is now.
Thnx

I resoldered the led connections and put some new tape on it, now its working as it should.

Dont have a razorblade or any other sharp knife for cutting the dome so I’ll leave it. Its much better than before so im happy with the results :).

You might try to sand the dome carefully with fine grit sandpaper to make it opaque, I had this idea a while ago but have not tried it. I expect that the hotspot widens a bit and the dark spot more or less gone.

Morning. Can anyone specify what ‘shaving the dome’ means? Is it simply cutting the dome flat instead of de-doming? Is it shaved into a particular shape? Thanks
EDIT: Got an answer. How to shave the XHP70 dome. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HzyNsogaizg&feature=youtu.be

I just tested it for you (and myself), with my test-XHP70 that was still lying around:

before:

After sanding, I ended up using quite rough paper: 180 grit 3M sanding paper (3M paper is the grippiest sandpaper I know, never use a different brand), carefully sanding all sides of the dome, took 10 minutes to get the finish a nice opaque.

Cellotaped the ledboard to a smooth plastic C8 reflector, used an almost drained alkaline 9V block for power

The dreambeam:

How the led looks in the reflector, picture was taken through an audio-cd:

Someone must have tried this before????

Like what happens with dedoming, the opaque dome surface causes a certain amount of light redirected into the die, leading to some light loss, increased surface brightness and tint shift, I don't know how large this effect is, I assume considerably less than with dedoming. (unlike dedoming this does not go together with smaller apparent die size)

Don't know how the dome behaves at high power, I guess it will alright but no guarantees. I may try that sometime.

djozz. Nice. Thanks :slight_smile: Just a couple days ago I mentioned to someone that we used to sand Luxeon LEDs to get more diffused beams (throw wasn’t priority 10 years ago) and that there is no reason why it wouldn’t work with XHP LEDs. Thanks for proving that it works! :slight_smile:
.
That’s a freaking cool idea using a CD to reduce light!

Not mine, it comes from advice on how to watch solar eclipses

Exactly what I was going to ask! lol

Well done dgozz! I have an HP50 in a XTAR TX20,powered by 2 mxjo 18350 batteries.even at a distance of better than 130feet the dark spot in the middle of the beam is still visible. Question, when sanding the dome, ae you using a sanding block? Also how do you deal with the dust caused by sanding? Any comments/help is appreciated. Thanks
Jim

I’d guess that sanding was done by hand and the dust was just washed off the LED with soap and water.

Correct, a small piece of sandpaper, a couch, and and 10 minutes of Zen. The silicon was slippery at first, but after some light rubbing for a while it starts to come off nicely :-) . The dust was blown off and then brushed with a soft brush.

This should work for you. You should just need to put a thin copper shim under your MCPCB.

42mm (D) x 39mm {H} OP Aluminum Reflector for Cree Q5 (1 pcs)



EDIT:
Emitter Hole Diameter: 9.6mm

Might need one of these Convoy C8 reflector sized centering rings?
9.8x2.3mm XM LED plastic insulation fixed position positioner for CREE XHP-50 XM-L XM-L2 5x5mm chip LED