I got about 80% of the dome off with tweezers. I heard it was easyā¦ and that the dome would just pop off easilyā¦ well dont believe everything I hearā¦ it was an incomplete removal.
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pushed most of the rest of the dome bits off, with a plastic toothpic
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I noticed when I reflowed my 519As onto a triple MCPCB that the domes are very sticky. At one point when I tapped down on one of the LEDs to remove the excess solder, the LED stuck to my finger and I pulled it right off. I was able to put it back on and it was fine, but it was strange that it happened.
Just to clarify above, the whole LED came up with my finger, not just the dome.
Iāve never had the guts to actually dedome an LED. At most Iāve sliced them and even then I was afraid I was going to cause some damage. But my sliced triple LH351D 90CRI 5000K (SPHWHTL3DA0GF4RTS6) LEDs turned out very nice.
I got a new Olight Warrior Mini, Red version, last Friday. Bought it from Neal
I really like this light and wanted to have a version with a warmer emitter.
So, I modded this light with a Luxeon V2 3000K in the Eagtac D25C DTP MCPCB. The TIR optic is from the Olight S1R Baton I .
Sorry, I didnāt take photo of the new setting in place before closing it
The original TIR optic and the bezel/head took some damage while trying to open it, but it doesnāt affect overal beauty or functionality.
The beam is very pleasant, with yellow and rosy, with slightly narrower hotspot (if we can call it that).
I am happy with it
I put a gutted red paracord lanyard with an orange GITD fob made by CRX!
Left is the OWM Red, and right is the original OWM with SST40 led.
You bet I am more statisfied with the new configuration
It is more pleasant to use this version now. I have to test it outside in normal use but I believe it will become one of my favourite lights ever :innocent:
Ok, I did it again.
My little family of multi color flashlights got an addition:
Itās the tiny S2+ in the middle. It got a white LED and two color LEDs, red and blue.
I designed and built color drivers in the past but unfortunately they were to big for the S2+. So I decided to use one of the old Blf X6 drivers Iāve still laying around. Again I used D882 transistors to drive the color LEDs, the base resistors limit the LED current to about 1 A. Base and pull down resistors are directly soldered to the transistors, then I encased them in flexible thermo glue, for electric insulation and some heat transfer to the pill.
I modified the Blf X6 driver for OTSM with a big capacitor and removed OTC and voltage divider resistors, since I do internal voltage measurement in my firmwares. With a quick test rig I checked the function.
In the next step I glued the transistors into the pill and completed the driver.
Btw., I used a triple color MCPCB from Kaidomain which I ordered a while ago and replaced only the green LED for a warm white XP-G2. This boards are still available and come for little money with optics included. Itās not a Carclo but still pretty nice.
I extended my latest clicky firmware for 4 channels (7135 + FET + 2x color), it does smooth ramping and has some other features. My favourite is the 2 color emergency strobe.
Here are some more pictures and a short video which demonstrates ramping and the color strobe.
Another mod with the Nichia 519A SW45 R9080 from Simon, sliced in a Sofirn C8F. I modded this C8F before with a Lumintop GT-mini driver (Narsil M user interface) and 4000K Luxeon V leds, I kept the driver but changed the leds for the sliced 519Aās, for less output but better CRI, a super tint, and a bit tighter hotspot.
At low output:_ At highest output (2500lumen):
CCT=3620K__CCT=3970
Duv=ā0.0019__Duv=ā0.0058
CRI=96.7_CRI=94.3
R9=92__R9=87
Another addition to my family of multi color lights:
Again a Convoy S2+ but a bit different from my last multi color build. It has the same BLF-X6 driver, modified for 4 channels and OTSM, with my ramping color firmware. But this time I wanted some more cell capacity so I decided to build a 18500 shorty. I couldnāt shorten the pill as much as other modders did, since I need the full space of the pill for the additional D882 transistors which drive the color LEDs. Also I didnāt want to glue or solder the driver into the pill (which would save some space) since I have to open it from time to time in order to update my firmware.
So I sanded as much as possible from the front of the pill but let the shelf there. Its thickness got reduced though, it is about 0.3 mm now. I also sanded the back of the pill including retaining ring to gain some more space. Instead of the driver spring I used a sanded brass button. Another bit of length I won by sanding the retaining ring of the switch PCB.
Despite this efforts the 18500 cell (although only 49 mm long) is still too long for this shorty. So I 3d-printed a spacer which I put between head and battery tube, with a height of about 2.8 mm. Now everything fits nicely and the cell flushes with the end of the tube. Iām thinking of replacing the printed spacer with a copper one, a piece of a common 24 mm copper tube with a wall thickness of 1 mm should fit perfectly.
The used LEDs are a very nice 92CRI Nichia 219C which Kaidomain sold a while ago, and a red and a green Cree XP-E color LED. Although I intentionally used thin wires the current draw of the Nichia is still pretty high with about 7 amps. The high capacity 18500 cells I use for this light are rated for about 4.5 amps continuous current (6.75 amps peak) so I configured my driver to limit the output.
These are the D882 transistors which drive the color LEDs with pull down and base resistors, insulated and glued into the pill with flexible thermo glue: