Have you tried 4C, they are wonderful!
Modified L6 with ramping firmware
Where did you get them? Mouser?
Nice video Dale. The driver looks to be a real winner with the new firmware on it.
KaiDomain. But now they only have 4B and 5A3. Now I cannot find them at any of the normal places… 4C-5C have proven to be a tint range I really like and I will use about anything in the range, but 4C is my goto.
A Sunwayman T25C fresh from the mailbox :
I reflowed a Epileds UV 395NM – 400NM LED to the original MCPCB and kept the original driver.
When you zoom it all the way out
When you Zoom it all the way in.
Focused for a look at the LED
Amazing work. How many amps does it pull? Since the heating is pretty much perfect. 
With a 30Q stuffed up its butt I get 11.8A
With a 14500 Windy I get 9A on the tail with my UT61E DMM on short 14 AWG leads.
I modified my Aluminum X5 back in June with aluminum spacer and Xp-g3 on copper dsche board. Mod here
I really like it , especially the fact that it is so lightweight…and so bright!
I still have a copper X5 (astrolux version) and a copper spacer , but haven’t decided what leds to use.
George, the newer Nichia 219C has a low Vf, can really make nearl XP-L HI output with better color. Rey sourced the newest high CRI in this emitter for his brass AA Pineapple, I don’t know if those are readily available or not but I do like the standard 219C for this application.
I haven’t carried my original copper X5 Quad since I made my DBC-05 Quad in Titanium, but I’m pretty sure I’ve got 219C’s in that now tarnished X5. 
When I first modified the X5 into a quad I saw a problem area in that the original reflector is chamfered at the top edge to push the o-ring outward against the bezel for a double seal… against the glass above and the bezel to the side. With just a spacer the optic pushes against the glass lens and there really isn’t a way to maintain this double seal action. So I designed the heat sink to be a fully supportive unit, surrounding the optic and sitting up against the glass lens, chamfer in place to utilize the o-ring design. This has worked well for me with over 9 months of EDC of the copper X5 Quad.
This shows the insert threaded into the head of the X5, mcpcb and optic in place, ready for the bezel…
With the X6, the larger 35mm optic is more easily adapted to do the job, the X5 has a slightly larger differential between the bezel and optic diameter’s, it just seemed this was necessary to emulate the overall design (and gave me a chance to use more copper. )
Polished X5 aluminum is waiting, pic previous page.
After the XP-L HI quad on 14500 I may go for the XP-G2 on 14500 for a comparison.
Tested current with my Windy 14500 @ 9.2A and stuffed an 18650 30Q in it and got 11.8A. Just too much for the 14500 to run 4 XP-L HI. SC doesn’t get too hot too fast on 14500 and I guess it will never kill the XP-L HI. But I want to try the G2’s for side by side. Will have to order more parts for that.
The SC, X5 XP-L HI quad on 14500 has nothing on my S2+ triple XP-L HI. Quad wants 18650….
Started to realize a couple glitches in this SC, X5 Quad.
Will make a post in “General” with some questions.
Mornin Dale. had your coffee? ready for a PM?
I have tested Cu X5 quad with 4x219b, sony 14500 used cell from fasttech and turned off thermal step-down. When driver made low voltage step-down, host temperature was more than 70 degrees C.
This is big problem of full Cu lights, temperature difference between soldered mcpcb and host tube is almost zero so even small cells can burn you hand skin.
Mornin…
Working on the coffee, have Carolina Reaper on board.
Modifying my digestive tract, as it were…
My first X5 mod i linked above , was done without any support on the optic , only the stock o-ring was used . It is stuck in there , optic well centered , and doesn’t move at all .
My copper X5 will have a better , copper heatsink , i purchased from kiriba-ru , some time ago . Very nice design , with a SS (?) ring for support .
Edit : Image from Kenjii
That’ll work! Might not add any heat sinking ability but it’s pretty and effective, as long as that o-ring is forced into double duty the job is getting done.
This is not flashlight-related, but I just got a new battery-powered Hitachi screwdriver and the factory batteries are quite expensive (like $17).
So I found some cheaper ones on Ebay:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/151760369260
but when I got them, they were too large, and really a tight fit for the charger and even worse, for the driver itself, so I used my dremel and some sandpaper to “mod” the 3 batteries I got (they are “agoda” branded). Here’s some pics:
A close-up of the factory battery (top) and the modded “agoda”/ebay battery (bottom):
I think that the “agoda” ebay battery was dimensionally larger on all dimensions, but mostly the wider ridge on the 2nd image was too “broad” and “thick/high”. I had to take quite a lot of material off using a dremel sanding wheel followed by an emery “sponge” to clean it up and make it a bit smoother, but now the modded batteries drop into the charger fine and also into the driver.
Jim
A new battery for my Camera costs $107.
Careful what you put in that Hitachi, it may well pull too much current for a lesser pack and fry something, in your hand, or even explode. A few bucks saved for a trip to the hospital… just sayin… be careful.
Yeah I would have rebuilt my original packs with batteries of my choice before buying lesser quality packs. Also would not buy a tool that has packs that can not be taken apart, and put back together.
That’s good advice. These were supposed to be my backup batteries, and will probably get some real ones next time. I was kind of surprised that they didn’t fit when I got them, and just didn’t feel going through the trouble of returning them, and just dumping them seemed like such a waste.
EDIT: size-wise, I’m pretty sure these have 14500 in them.
Cooyoo quantum and Veleno D2. Both got a XP-G2 3000K