Please pencil me in for one more. Two total. I was unable to locate my original list number for the first one. If that number is mandatory please advise and I will keep searching.
Thank you list maintainer! I appreciate it.
Finally, a solid lantern. This will be fun.
fourbyfive
You were already in for 2 so now it’s 3 
You don’t have to buy them all of course.
!
The batteries are all in parallel, so why would putting 4 near empty batteries not kick in the exact same LVP in each of them?
I was hoping it would be closer to 800 lumens and have 12 plus hours of runtime. Also I thought the lantern has 6 total leds not 4.
The LVP measures the batteries under load, which depends on the current. With four batteries parallel and thus the current per cell 4 times less, the voltage under load is a bit higher and thus the LVP kicks in a bit later. But it is all pretty marginal though, with the less than 2A current that the lantern draws the voltage difference between 2A and 500mA of a good battery is maybe 0.1V. I mentioned it more like a thought experiment than an actual recommendation.
I may check the theory in practice though, once the lantern is there
EDIT: Sorry, I was mistaken. The lantern actually has 8 LEDs (see this post from DBSAR).
Only 4 LEDs. Adding an extra 2 LEDs would add several percentage points to the cost without gaining much in the way of output or efficiency.
EDIT: The rest of this post is still fine.
The lantern comes with 5 × 7135 chips enabled per LED channel. You can enable a further 2 × 7135 chips per channel by connecting a couple of solder bridges.
That would buy you something like 30% extra output (not 40%, because LEDs are less efficient at higher current). On that basis, 570lm with 5 × 7135 chips per channel would scale up to about 740lm with 7 × 7135 chips per channel.
It doesn’t come with all of the chips enabled by default because that hammers full power runtime down to about 4.5 hours, and the lantern becomes uncomfortably hot when run for long periods at that level. The temperature can approach 60°C then, compared to about 40°C in the standard configuration.
Basically, you have the option, but you have to configure it yourself in full knowledge of the tradeoffs. 60°C is into scalding territory; manufacturers aren’t keen on making their devices do that as standard.
As for 12 hours runtime: unfortunately not in this form factor. It would have to be twice the size to manage that at full power, which means it would be heading for house brick size.
Mind you, it should be able to do about 300lm for 12 hours, which is often sufficient, and you always have the option to plug a USB powerbank in as an external “booster pack” if you need full power for extended periods.
A 20000mAh powerbank plugged into a fully charged lantern should run for roughly 11 - 12 hours in the stock (570lm) configuration. With all 7135 chips enabled, it should manage about 8 hours at 740lm.
Please note that these are all computed estimates; I don’t have a lantern on hand for real-life testing yet. I am on the list to buy 4 of them though, in full awareness of all these calculations, so you can see my confidence that they’ll work nicely for me.
The button has a blinking mode, but there is no breathing mode. Breathing mode increases standby power by quite a bit.
However, it sounds like this was about using the main LEDs while in standby. The closest function available would be the beacon mode when used at the lowest ramp level. But it’s probably too bright to use for that purpose, and would be annoying to sleep near.
One easy option is to leave the batteries out and power it only over USB. Then it could turn on automatically any time it receives power, with only a tiny change to the firmware. There’s a compile-time option to start at the memorized level at boot, instead of just blinking to confirm it has power.
To do more detailed synchronization though, it would require deeper changes.
Is there a consolidation post somewhere in this thread with the final agreed upon specs of the emitter, driver, color options etc? That first post is absolutely massive.
Im still innit for one, maybe two, but it seems that quite a bit of information is buried in this thread.
Also, and this is in no way meant to attack anyone, has the production firmware been thoroughly tested as to avoid the initial D4V2 FW issue? (Granted if the LT1 is like the Q8 it should be super easy to flash.)
I like a color like red for when I'm not using the lantern/flashlight. Makes it harder to overlook when you're getting ready to leave a place. Although this is only something I started caring about as I got older and my memory got less effective.
Your no fun, crank her up like a Screaming Jimmy! Got to love those 2 stroke Detroit diesels! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UYSUoixfttE
Please add me to the list for one.
Wait, someone talked about measuring the threads and 3d printing a plug for this thing when ran without batteries.
Doesn’t this use the same battery tube as the Q8? Couldn’t we just measure a Q8 and get a head start?
I say we, I have a 3d printer, but barely any experience with cad. I’d be willing to look into it, but for a quality end product someone else should probably give it a go first lol
Yes, it should have the same threads as the Q8. But you don’t even need the part to be threaded. Make it a tight fit and that should be good enough. Or, make one side of it extend on the outside up to the tri-pod hole. Then you could run a bolt through it into the side of the head to make sure the plug/cover doesn’t come off.
The lantern has 8 total LEDs. 4x 3000k and 4x 5000k.
Note: I believe there was question question about sourcing 2700K LEDs vs 3000k LEDs.
The lantern has 8 total LEDs. 4x 2700k and 4x 5000k.
It should have the same threads as the Sofirn Q8, I have the first Thorfire Q8 and the threads are different.
Yep 8 in total, four 2700K and four 5000K LH531D Samsung LEDs.
I found a Camara lens cap at a local camera store that almost fits it perfectly, i added some foam to it to protect the anodizing.
love the sounds of the ol’ Detroits!