I’ve received my order for a copper spacer for an Astrolux SS. The shipping time was great (very fast!), nice packaging, and great fitment. Thank you!
I would like to order the following. Can you recommend how to split shipments to reduce costs?
Copper spacer for Carclo triple Convoy S2+/S3/EagleEye X2/BLF A6/Astrolux S1,
$5, 17g
Brynite B158 copper pill,
$14, 39g
P60 copper quad drop-ins – Surefire non-compatible, no ground sping required, driver press fit/solder version
$16, 56g
0.5m of pure copper foil:
$2
triple liner with gitd o-ring (also fit my previous drop-ins)
$4
^ Is this required for SolarForce P60 quad build?
Carclo 10622 24mm quad Narrow Spot Plain TIR
$1.50
Thank you!
Need some advice about future produced P60 drop-ins.
All quad drop-ins and shells except of mine are similar to the left part of drawing. They have full rim around optics, but can not get closer to the glass, there always will be ~3mm gap.
I have not looked at them while making mine design, so all my drop-ins (shown right) use right optics position (right under glass lens). But this version can not close optics. Quad tirs OD is 24mm, while smallest head ID is 24.1-24.5mm (depends on host).
3 ways:
- save current surefire-compatible design
- change it to the more regular one, with full rim and other optics disposition
- save current design, provide liner ring as extra part (grey colored). There is no simple desicion to get full rim and save right optics position, I canr make tube with 0.05mm wall thickness. It will probably have 0.25-0.3mm wall thickness, 24.5-24.6 external diameter, so installing such drop-in will require boring this step in the head.
Maybe you could create some 2) and test .
I was asking from you one of these 
All existing drop-ins have #2 design. Lots of members own them, it is more easy way to ask them for tests.
Without light losses test, Im more worry about mcpcb and optics sitting. PCB soldering or gluing is required, optics legs gluing is required.
As I remember we have met agreement that changing 30+W drop-in “on the way” is not a good idea. You need very tight fit, so you need copper foil, so its removing and installing is not so easy.
Got the 219C triple board soldered to the S2+ pill:
And a heavily Dremel-d retaining ring to avoid shorting/crushing anything on the LD-3 driver (just ignore the off-centre contact button…):
It even works, despite my horrendous soldering “skills” 
Finally got the emitters in for my Quad X5 build. Just wanted to say that everything went together very well. I almost thought the big copper heatsink was going to be too big; it wouldn’t drop all the way down. But with just a bit of wiggling it slid right in there, nice and tight - exactly what you want. Add 4 Nichia 219c’s on a copper T-Pad (also bought from here) and a Carclo 10622 (also bought from here) and it works great!
My only small issue is that I couldn’t get the o-ring back in the head. I think its supposed to ride in the thinner ringed end of the ss liner, but I couldn’t get it to stay put during assembly. So I left it out. I’m not worried but it could be an issue for others.
Have you seen photos in the first post? You could try to assemble bezel with liner, oring and glass (without spacer, pcb and optics).
I was curious on the F13 triple spacer, do all of the “steps” make contact with the body of the light thus improving the heat transfer over that paper thin “shelf”?
Also does anyone have any experience with the F13 or MT-12 vs the X6 when it comes to heat handling abilities? I am really liking this host.
Yes. Stock shelf is really thin, so it contacts with other surfaces.
Hmmm, I should have gotten one of those in my last order lol.
When you get the C8 spacer done let me know, I will most likely have you add an F13 spacer to the shipment.
Its not a problem. Just say that I have to reserve parts until other parts are produced, and I will do it.
Yeah, I will regret it if I don’t get it now, I should be able to wrangle up the money for that. So you can go ahead and reserve 1 F13 spacer…
Will you be getting Cute-3 optics and 32mm MCPCB’s in as well?
Stretch the oring a few times to get it to stay in place. Over stretching will break or buckle the fit. Putting a very thin layer light lube on the oring helps here. I use synthetic motor oil, 0W20 or silicone oil, RC car shock oil.
Put glass in bezel, now oring. Get the SS ring as close to the Oring as possible, but you will not be able to get it all the way seated. Mount optic and get the parts together abut just touching oring. Push the glass down and I used a circular motion around the glass on the edge of the bezel until the oring got around the lip n the SS ring. As you gain space, screw down the bezel, keeping pressure on the glass so the ring don’t pop back out.
Just trying to screw the bezel down causes the oring to buckle because it twists and moves as you turn bezel. Lip on SS ring will cut it.
This is an S6 clone from KD in brown. Used the kiriba S2 spacer in the build.
Im not sure that stretching X5 o-ring is necessary. I have measured 24.6mm step side (to fit o-ring internal diameter) on stock reflector, same measurement on the liner should be 24.6…24.7mm. Older set had liners from SS, I had some problems with precision sizes (mostly checked internal diameter), newer ones have liner from brass. Not so solid, more simple to damage it, but should have more precision measurements.
This decision may be not so good as M1 or M2 sets. But there is not enough place inside X5 head to make complete ring with groove in the center of thin liner.
Using o-rings without lube is bad idea anyway. One day youll need to disassemble this config, and if o-rings were dry it may cause problems.
Stretching the oring is to help hold the glass in place, that’s all. Making it very slightly larger puts pressure to the bezel and helps hold the glass without fumbling with it and getting prints on the inside.
This is hard question.
From the one side, I understand that members want to make one order from one place and receive all parts asap.
From the other side, place where I live is not suitable for drop-shipping services. I have already mentioned problems with tpad quad ordering and cost. In most situations I need to pay shipping cost. Delivery time from Chine or even from some russian regions to me is longer than from me to the NY.
I did not offer bare pcbs, I often have them on stock because some members dont have leds soldering skills, so I could solder leds that I have for them as exception.
Problem with XP32 is that hank dont offer quantity discount for them. It means that when I sell them for $5, Im just loosing fee. I have spend some part of turnover (that could be spent for some new products or materials), I wait one month delivery, Im spending time to solder leds/spacers, then some time to sell this parts, but what the idea? This spare work is just limiting new productions.
I will have Cute-3SS in stock. To have reasonable prices, I need to order at least 100 of them. Yes, it is connected with all wroten above.
Yes, I would like to have more full parts kits in stock. I would like to have quad pcbs, both in 20 and 30-32mm sizes. Custom driver boards, nichia leds, teflon wires, etc.
As we say in russia: “Fast, high quality, cheap. Choose two from three.” In my case this is one from all.
Triples for C8 is mine choise for now. I have ordered material for about 100 aluminium sets.
I totally understand not carrying them, Just figured I would ask.
I deal with a lot of the same issues in my line of work.
Kiriba,
your prices on optics has been very good. Please keep them going. The additional weight to a package for them is minimal and adding a few to an order is a no brainer.
Ledil Cute-SS aren’t carried by many suppliers in a reasonable quantity purchase, even here in USA. There are only a few different ones that are widely used.