JAXMAN M8(xpl hi version),an old model but long shoot!

hi,dear all, I am in hospital for a week.My father was sick.
Then ,my mother-in-law was also sick yesterday night……
To be a single son,as most of Chineses born in 1980s, we want say:I am tired in now and futrue…
BG, FT, GB? I dont know. the Purchase department of them would tell us who they buy for…

We all (at least should) know that family comes first. I hope that your relatives get better and that you can find some time to un-nerve yourself.
As for the pro’s and con’s on shipping stated before: there ain’t such a thing as a free lunch.
The same goes for shipping. You’l have to pay for it: one way or another.

dear, thanks for your support and good wishes.
The plan-reproduce of population in China is a lose policy.That mades many 3 person family,parents and a single boy or girl. When the parents are old, the son or daughter will face big difficult and trouble.

I hope everything gets well. Having lived in China for 5 years when I was young I understand the struggle… Thanks for sharing your feelings with us, sometimes we assume dealing with someone overseas is like talking to a robot and everything is scripted, yet we don’t realize it is a real person just like you and me and anybody else.

hi,here are 2 videos of 4 years ago.in 2012.
water proof test

Got my M8 today, shipping was surprisingly quick!

Quick physical impressions: the build quality and finish is excellent with lubed trapezoid threads, anodizing was perfect and the reflector assembly was impeccable. Nearly all of my other budget lights came with at least a few tiny dust particles inside the reflector visible with the light turned on, but this M8 was surprisingly clean. I seems like it was assembled in a very clean factory.

Will try post some more details and pictures later today, but so far I’m very impressed, the overall quality is beyond the level of the X6, Convoy C8 or D80.

Got mine other day and agree on quality, my only problem is I can not get the bezel off. BTW does battery only come off at tailcap?

The head and bezel can be taken off, it’s not glued but tightened really hard. Battery slides both ways.

Ok some pics and more info:
-Out of the box it throws about 30kcd, or roughly half of the BLF SS/CU X6. I’m confident the M8 will surpass that after I go full hot rod with a FET driver, thicker wires, spring bypasses and mcpcb soldered to the pill.
-My DMM broke so I couldn’t take any measurements yet, but this driver is only 6 chips so it should be around 2.1A.

The M8 and the C8 are on both ends of the spectrum for big head 18650 lights…

It has the smallest head after the M2, even smaller than the X6

Maybe not the best pic but it shows how clean the reflector is, and the coated glass is nearly invisible. It has a green AR+AF coating on it, I’ve seen blue, purple and red but never green.

Flat top springs on both sides, supossedly gold plated. The brass pill is screwed from the rear.

Whoever designed this reflector knows his stuff, look at this beam:

The MCPCB was secured with two screws I couldn’t remove, will update with more details in the mod thread when it’s done.

I got mine in today, I’m sure that I opted for the ‘yellow’ 7A version but this one clearly is close to 5000K, I guess I got the 3C instead. I’m a bit disappointed by that.

Indeed a great beam, a very nice and clean reflector, and I like the green AR-coating. This XP-L Hi gives a bit yellow center in the hotspot, just like one of my X5 lights from the group buy (and the other with the exact same specs does not have it). This yellow hotspot center seems to be hit or miss with XP-L Hi leds, but at least it only apears when the reflector is high quality.

I like the plain low-med-high without memory that I chose, with a decent but not perfect mode spacing. I measure 24-220-700 lumen. The output is very stable; at 2.1A and current regulation that is no surprise but even with that considered he stability surprised me, the used 7135 chips must be pretty good. And I see no PWM at all, it must be high frequency: well over 10KHz.

The tail spring does not attract magnets so I assume it is the copper alloy that the advert mentions, the driver spring is a common steel spring, they did not mention that.

The throw at high setting I measure at 31 kcd, that is in line with what Will34 found. When this Jaxman M8 is seen as a host this leaves plenty room for improvement, I may like to put a dedomed XP-E2 Torch in this one :slight_smile:

Did you changed the modes by soldering one of the stars or it came that way?

My modes goes high-medium-low-strobe-sos :confounded:

Low-med-high was one of the options that I could choose on check-out. But it has to do with the stars, on my driver the middle star is bridged, you could try that.

thanks djozz, i will give it try tonight. diggin the light btw.

Thanks! soldering the middle star changed the modes to low-mid-high… much more usable now :slight_smile:

EDIT 14/5: Replaced the driver to a DrJones’ H17F, both spring bypassed and used a more consistent thermal paste. Didn’t change the stock MCPCB so let’s hope it does fine. It now puts out ~65kcd which is 10% higher than the BLF X6v2, awesome throw for such a little light. Also because of the brighter spill the M8 is a lot more usable indoors vs a big sized C8 with XP-L HI.

The driver I took from the M8 will still work for other projects, I see that it has room for 2 more 7135s in the back so I can make this into a 2.8A driver.

Off-topic: Not sure why I’m only getting 5.2A with a Samsung 30Q where in my full size C8 I get 5.45A… probably something about the driver being soldered only on one side instead of being pressed with a ring. Using a large FET driver like the MTN-17m will certainly hit ~6A but I like the H17F so much that I’m willing to live with a lower current.

I opted for the yellow 7A as well. The box came with some QC card (which we should all totally throw away) stating so. What does your card say? The beam is completely yellow in mine.

I like it better than the Convoy M1, despite the M1’s nice matte HA-III anodizing.

hi,Techno,

we have only 3 color xpl hi leds:

coolwhite 1A 6000k
warmwhite 3c 5500K
yellow 7A 3500k if you ordered it ,then it will be 7A.

REGARDS

What are the mode options?

Sorry for the thread necro but figured this would be the most appropriate place for this.

I will be buying an M8 probably next month and it will more than likely be the XP-L HI version.
As you all know, this is an easily moddable light so question for those who have went from stock 6x7135 to 8x7135: was it worth it?

Looking at the XP-L datasheet this +33% current increase would increase flux by ~+23. And if IF goes up so does Vf; if I calculated correctly LED wattage would go up +38.5 (not including driver inefficiencies).
So for quite a lot more heat you get very little visual difference in regards to max flux.
As I’m not an expert, what happens to max throw?

Flashlightwiki has a “light output measurement” article and if I take Jaxman test result “41000lux at 1 meter” and calculate max throw as FL-1 standard defines it (sqrt(candela/0.25)) I get 405 meters?
And if I simply add 23% to Jaxman’s test result, the throw calculation then gives 449 meters. So ~11% more throw?

Am I even in the right ballpark here?
If I am then I’m not sure if the positives outweigh the negatives for me.

If an Emisar D1 FET rates ~40 kcd / 400 m then it’s unlikely that something with half the amperage and a similar reflector is going to reach 450m throw.

It’s a neat host either way. I put a boost driver and a XHP50.2 in mine and I found that I needed to add thermal paste to the pill threads (assuming there isnt enough already) to really improve heat transfer for the added wattage so I would suggest doing that if you decide to go through with your mod.

Lagittaja, you are in the right ballpark. At least from where I am standing.
But let’s summarize what we have so far:

- 38% more heat, with risc of more wear and tear.

- 11% more lumens.

  • perceived “power” increase: neglectable.

For the perception of brightness of the eye does not have a linear, but a logarithmic, scale.
A light that according to instruments is 10 times stronger, is perceived by us as twice as strong.
So if the light has 11% more lumens, it will (at the most) be perceived as marginally stronger.

Happy ending: but we are flashaholics, and have the instruments to prove it.

PS Jaxman gave the M8 a 6*7135AMC driver, because they are not keen on pushing the envelope.

What way is the Emisar D1 FET rated as 400m throw? Just out of curiosity. In my previous post, I used the FL-1 standard way of calculating the throw. Which is sqrt(candela/0.25lux)

And I want to clarify myself. Please don’t take the rest of this post the wrong way.

I was not claiming the M8 XP-L HI will throw 405m at stock. (At least I don’t think I was.)
What I was trying to do is: compare the difference in throw at stock (6x7135) vs modded 8x7135.
I said “I’m not an expert” followed by “[but] what happens to max throw?”

And as I didn’t know the answer to my question I decided to try and find out how you can quantify the difference.
So I did a bit of google-fu and found the Flashlightwiki article, learned about how FL-1 standard calculates it and went from there.

To reiterate:
6x7135 2100mA >> 8x7135 2800mA = +33% current (and because Vf increases with If the XP-L HI LED power goes +38.5%)
Based on XP-L datasheet, going from 2100mA to 2800mA = ~+23% flux

What I didn’t have was a candela value to use.
I looked at Jaxman M8 product page and saw they had tested it. (Their equipment and calibration if any, results depend on accuracy+precision of measurement and position of the moon etc. so results should be taken with a grain of salt and not compared directly to other tests by other sources like they say in their image. Which I feel like you did by bringing up the Emisar D1 FET with it’s ratings done by someone else using other equipment and some methodology.)

I decided to use that value.
I could have used any value.
And I probably should have used some other value so no one would get their knickers in a twist. :slight_smile:
Alas, I did not.

But, anyway, like I said I could have used any value because I was only interested in the difference.
So let’s use 2500 candela just as an example as it gives a nice and round 100 meter result using FL-1 calculation for throw.
sqrt(2500/0.25) = 100m
Let’s add 23%
sqrt((2500+23)/0.25) = 110.90m or ~+11.

It’s just the difference I was trying to find out if everything but the flux stays the same.

Maybe I should have used X as the value?
1/(sqrt(X/0.25))*(sqrt((X+23%)/0.25)) = 1.109x
Now nobody can’t complain.

Thank you Henk4U2 for reading my post and confirming I’m at least close with my math.

Small correction to your summary: the +11% was throw, the calculated flux increase was ~+23%.
With that out of the way, yes, I agree with you.

As far as I am concerned, regarding the 6x > 8x7135 mod, the positives do not outweigh the negatives. (like my last sentence in previous post)
You get very little increase to throw or flux while the power/heat increase is quite a bit bigger so your battery life also hurts.

Also yeah, I have read quite a lot of Jaxman’s posts here and I do know he doesn’t like too much power because of the negatives which we discussed.

P.S. I might try the 8x mod just for giggles but I probably would revert it back after testing as I don’t think it will be worth it. So probably best just to keep it stock. Or go big instead…